Ugly duckling turns into a tasty swan; Restaurant Spy THE WHITE SWAN, HARBORNE ROAD EDGBASTON.

AM I more easily pleased as the ravages of age take their toll or has the quality of gastro-pubs owned by those two Pauls - Salisbury and Hales - improved?

Over the past few years I've been less than impressed by meals I've eaten at some of their boozers, the White Swan included.

But this summer I've had a cracking nosh at the Lyttelton Arms in Hagley and, more recently, an enjoyable meal at the White Swan.

The latter is a famous old place - locally known as the Dirty Duck - that has been refurbished very much in the Salisbury/Hales style.

Hence the place is light and airy with a few tasteful artefacts, a whole lot of antipodean staff and a menu that picks and mixes ingredients and styles from across the continents to create what I suppose is modern British fare.

I visited with my wife and older son early last Thursday evening and the place was very busy. But service was friendly and efficient.

Breads, olive oil and balsamic vinegar that were brought to our table were of good quality.

Afterwards I headed to Normandy for a bowl of slightly over-cooked - and therefore chewy - mussels cooked in a cream, leek and cider sauce that was well-balanced and good enough to mop up with the extra bread that was brought.

Lynn enjoyed a cheese, onion and roasted pear tart, its pastry buttery, old fashioned, deep and much enjoyed.

There were murmurs of approval, too, from Murray as he ate large baked field mushrooms served in a cream and Chablis sauce. The spitroast chicken on to which I progressed was a mighty fine fowl - crisp skin and succulent, tasty meat.

It came with a fiesty homemade peri-peri sauce, garlicky aioli and very good fries.

Lynn's salad of leaves, duck breast and plum sauce was also well received.

Murray's enormous serving of battered haddock, chips, tartar sauce and minted mushy peas got the thumbs-up.

He (and his mum, who sampled the fish) especially relished the light and crunchy batter. Though he had reservations about the addition of mint to peas accompanying fried fish.

None of us had space for desserts nor even a post-prandial coffee.

Our reasonable bill included a bottle of very good Sicilian red wine, a lager and a soft drink

Verdict *****

How much?.pounds 72 for three

Vegetarians?.Choices

Child friendly?.Yes

Disabled access? Fine

Parking? Own car park

Go Back? Yes

OUR TOP 5 PUBS FOR GRUB

Bell and Cross

Take a walk in the Clent Hills then try Roger Narbett's classy modern fare.

Holy Cross, Belbroughton Road, Clent. 01562 730319.

Black Eagle

Good beer, homely food in this snug backstreet boozer.

16 Factory Road, Handsworth.

0121 523 4008.

Metro Bar and Grill

Stylish city centre bar and restaurant much used by the business community.

73 Cornwall Street, Birmingham. 0121 200 1911.

Town House

Town centre pub whose modern, high quality food punches above its wait.

727 Warwick Road, Solihull.

0121 704 1567.

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Title Annotation:	Features
Publication:	Birmingham Mail (England)
Date:	Aug 7, 2008
Words:	494
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