Grapefruit: a fruit with a bit of a complex.
With only 300 years of history behind it, the grapefruit is a relative newborn in the citrus family. It took more than 200 years for this bittersweet beauty to earn a place at the breakfast table. What would it take to make it an everyday ingredient in cooking?How to make friends and influence people
The grapefruit's story begins in 1693 when an English captain named Shaddock transported some pummelo seeds from the East Indies to the West Indies. There they were planted close enough to sweet oranges for nature to combine them accidentally, making a whole new fruit. In 1750, Reverend Griffith Hughes named it "forbidden fruit" when he encountered it in Barbados. The name stuck until 1814, when naturalist John Lunan first recorded it as "grapefruit," most likely for the grape-like clusters in which it grows. Its Latin classification is Citrus x paradisi, or citrus of paradise.
The first grapefruit trees in the U.S. grew from seeds brought to Safety Harbor, Florida from the Bahamas in 1823, by Count Odette Philippe. Grown at first as an ornamental novelty, the grapefruit didn't generate a lot of culinary interest until a concerted effort was made in that direction. In 1870, Florida settler John A. MacDonald established a grapefruit nursery from the fruit of a single tree he particularly liked. By 1885, Florida was producing enough grapefruit that New York and Philadelphia were able to meet their small demand with domestic crops. By the end of the century, Texas began developing an unlikely trade in grapefruit after observing a single tree that repeatedly survived freezing. As a result, the Rio Grande Valley became a major source of grapefruit by 1910.
The 1930s, however, proved to be the pivotal decade for grapefruit. It was the time of the first major fad diet, the Hollywood Diet. Also known as the Grapefruit Diet, it prescribed a regimen of little more than grapefruit, black coffee and melba toast. Meanwhile, as some were struggling to lose weight, others were struggling to survive the Great Depression. Food stamps distributed by the welfare office entitled bearers to free grapefruit, a situation that introduced the fruit to many families who had never heard of it. Some lodged formal complaints that several hours of cooking did nothing to make the fruit more edible.
By the 1940s, people had finally developed a fondness for grapefruit, and production soared. Serrated grapefruit spoons were invented for the grapefruit halves that were now ubiquitous at breakfast while grapefruit-studded fruit cups began gracing the start of many a formal meal. Candied grapefruit peel became a homemade favorite, as did grapefruit marmalade, and the fresh-squeezed juice began gaining on orange in popularity. Today, the U.S. produces the majority of the world's grapefruit--about 1.23 million tons, or 40% of the total. Other major producers are China, South Africa, Mexico and Israel. Within the U.S., Florida is the largest producer, and also the largest in the world. Texas is a distant second, growing a crop that amounts to 12% of Florida's. Arid regions of Arizona and California also contribute a small quantity to the supply, most importantly during the spring and summer when Florida and Texas grapefruit are out of season.
Overall though, grapefruit sales have declined in recent years due in part to the discovery of the fruit's negative interaction with certain prescription drugs. A compound in the fruit called naringenin makes it difficult for the body to metabolize a drug, which allows more of the drug to be absorbed into the bloodstream, making it more powerful, and possibly even dangerous. The rest of the reason is competition. In a marketplace filled with more variety, people frequently pass over the bitter, sour flavor of grapefruit to reach for something sweeter.
Good, bitter, best
Although grapefruit are the offspring of the pummelo, the largest citrus fruit, the first grapefruit were no bigger than their other parent, the orange. Under cultivation, grapefruit became their more familiar size of three and a half to five inches in diameter. The Marsh, or Marsh Seedless, is the most common variety grown commercially. Duncan and Foster are other popular varieties, but not as widely available as the Marsh.
Pink grapefruit developed in the early 1900s and found a following overnight. Pink varieties of every hue began cropping up, including the Redblush, Star Ruby and Ruby Red. Ruby Red, the most intensely colored, is a mutation that turned up in Texas and ended up being the first with a U.S. patent. While some varieties are known for being redder than others, an individual pink grapefruit of any variety owes its final color to season, geographic location and soil type.
A ripe grapefruit should be heavy for its size, regardless of skin thickness. During the winter when grapefruit come from humid areas of Florida and Texas, the skins will be thin and the flesh extra juicy. In summer, the drier climates of Arizona and California produce grapefruit with thick skins and drier pulp. Otherwise, the fruit should be firm and give to gentle pressure but should not be overly soft at the stem end. Small imperfections in the skin are normal and don't offer any indication of quality.
Being an accidental hybrid, the grapefruit has lent itself well to the deliberate creation of a couple of others. The Oroblanco is a grapefruit crossed again with a pummelo to produce a less bitter fruit. Also favored for its sweeter qualities, the Uglifruit is a grapefruit-tangerine cross that first appeared in Jamaica in the early 20th century.
Over the course of a hundred years-far too long to be termed fad or fashion-the grapefruit has steadily gained in popularity. Perhaps another reason for the now-lessening interest is that most of the crop is still either eaten raw out of hand, or drunk as juice, while its intriguing culinary potential goes largely untested. Grapefruit has an exceptional affinity for avocado, as well as seafood and bitter greens. Other flavors that pair well are coconut, ginger, honey, tarragon and walnut. A relative newcomer to the world, grapefruit offers a lot of uncharted territory for the adventurous.
Made for Giving
Nancy Olson Pastry Chef, GRAMERCY TAVERN, New York City
In the summer of 2006, Nancy Olson accepted a rare opportunity to become Gramcrcy Tavern's pastry chef. She succeeded Claudia Fleming, who had held the position since the restaurant opened twelve years earlier. Rather than finding it a bit daunting, Olson regarded it as a perfect fit. "In my mind, it was: 'Wow, an opportunity to work at Gramercy Tavern--where else do I really want to be?' It really matches my style of food and my personality. I like the comfort food that's here, but yet it's very elegant."
Comfort food is at the heart of the matter for Olson. Hailing from North Dakota, she grew up in a time and place where she could take home cooking for granted. It wasn't until she went to college that she first met people who had grown up on canned and frozen food. "I'd cook for them once in a while," she recalls, "and I really liked it. I felt comfortable doing that. I like giving people things. Food, that's what it's about: your emotions on a plate." She quit college and gave professional food service a try by taking a part-time job at a local country club. It quickly turned into a full-time job that lasted five years.
After getting as much experience as she could at the country club, Olson went to the CIA for baking and pastry. One of the most important things she had learned was that the line was not for her. "I mean, cooking is physically demanding. But cooking on a hot line--that's crazy," she laughs, adding that being a picky eater clinched it. "You have to be able to taste everything you're making." On the positive side, becoming a pastry chef was just much more satisfying. "Desserts just make people very happy," she explains. "It's not, 'Oh, I'm starving and I have to eat.' It's like, 'I'm satiated now and I'm just looking for some pleasure.' It's wonderful to be that person."
While at the CIA, Olson decided to give New York a try, and has been there ever since. An externship at Aureole turned into a two-and-a-half-year stint. It's the job she credits as most formative, because it was her introduction to New York restaurants. "It was really learning how people work in the city; what kind of things you can do to be the most efficient worker because you have to be, because it's such a fast pace; and figuring out how hard you can really work," she says. "Can you stand for twelve, fourteen, sixteen hours a day? And just keep doing it? I really learned a lot about it there."
From Aureole, she went to Bouley. While there, she met Cedric Tovar, who offered her the pastry chef position at his short-lived restaurant, Theo. They then moved as a team to Django and stayed for more than two years. Eventually Olson became the pastry chef at Dona, where she got the call from Gramercy Tavern.
In her current position, Olson strives to emulate the style of her predecessor while incorporating important personal elements. "Definitely I'm trying to mimic the Claudia thing--that comfort food that's a little more elegant," she describes. "And foods from my childhood--a lot of things that I remember my mom making, my grandmother making, and then trying to make them so that they fit here." To do that, she gives American favorites a French treatment so that they are more complex and varied than the original.
The most rewarding challenge so far has been learning to adapt to Gramercy Tavern's market-driven approach. "I don't think I realized the extent of it until I got here and really just started trying to do things right from the market," she admits. "So a lot of it turns out to be not really planning ahead. It's 'Oh my God, I can't get blueberries, or nectarines, or raspberries--what can I get? Okay, it's Concord grapes. What can I do with Concord grapes?'" She looks forward to a time when she'll be able to stay slightly ahead of the season, and quickly make adjustments for the everyday vagaries of nature.
As she expands her repertoire of desserts, Olson notes that her most cherished recipe is still missing from the restaurant menu. "I'm not really doing apple pie, but that's my favorite food to make in the whole world," she says. That's the dish that won't bear changing, the one she reserves for the special occasions that call for the most personal, comforting touch.
Baked Alaska with Muscovado Brown Butter Cake (Serves 4)
Gruner Veltliner Eiswein
Schloss Gobelsburg
Kamptal, Austria 2005
For the ruby red grapefruit sorbet: In large bowl, combine grapefruit juice and corn syrup and mix well. Process in ice cream machine according to manufacturer's instructions and freeze until needed.
For the grapefruit meringue: In small saucepan, combine sugar and water over medium heat, stirring to dissolve sugar. Continue heating until sugar reaches 230 degrees. Place egg whites in bowl of mixer fitted with whisk attachment and begin whipping at high speed. When sugar mixture reaches 240 degrees, lower mixer speed to medium and slowly add sugar mixture to egg whites. Continue whipping to stiff peaks. Fold in grapefruit. Transfer to pastry bag fitted with round tip.
For muscovado brown butter cake: Preheat oven to 375°F. In small saucepan, melt two ounces brown butter. Transfer to bowl of mixer with sugar and remaining cold brown butter. Mix until well combined. In bowl, combine flour, baking powder and salt. In separate bowl, whisk together egg whites and milk. Alternately add flour mixture and egg white mixture to sugar mixture, beginning and ending with flour mixture. Transfer batter to pastry bag and pipe into prepared 2-inch round baking pans. Bake until golden brown, about 15 minutes. Let cool five minutes and remove from pans. Let cool completely. Top each cake with scoop of sorbet. Cover with meringue and freeze until needed.
For the tarragon creme anglaise: In a medium saucepan, combine cream, milk and tarragon. Bring to boil, remove from heat and let infuse ten minutes. Strain through fine-mesh sieve. In stainless steel bowl, whisk yolks and sugar until pale. Whisk in cornstarch. Temper egg yolk mixture by whisking in 1/2 cup of hot cream mixture. Stir yolk mixture into remaining cream mixture. Place over medium heat, stirring constantly, until mixture coats back of wooden spoon. Cool over ice water bath.
To serve: Remove baked Alaskas from freezer. Using kitchen torch, lightly brown meringue. Place on plate with creme anglaise and garnish with tarragon and grapefruit segment.
For the ruby red grapefruit sorbet:
1 cup freshly squeezed ruby red grapefruit Juice 1 cup light corn syrup
For the grapefruit meringue:
8 ounces granulated sugar 1 tablespoon water 4 egg whites Peeled segments of 1 ruby red grapefruit, finely chopped
For the muscovado brown butter cake:
5 ounces brown butter, cold 6 ounces muscovado sugar 6 ounces all-purpose flour 1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder 1/4 teaspoon salt 3 egg whites 3 ounces milk Sorbet, from above Meringue, from above
For the tarragon creme anglaise:
1 cup heavy cream 2 cups milk 2 ounces tarragon 6 egg yolks 5 ounces granulated sugar 1/2 ounce cornstarch
For the garnish:
Tarragon leaves Peeled ruby red grapefruit segments
Crepe Cake with Grapefruit Marmalade (Serves 8)
Spatburgunder Welssherbst Auslese
Messmer
Pfalz, Germany 2001
For the crepes: Sift flour through fine-mesh sieve into large bowl and add sugar and salt. Whisk together eggs and yolks and slowly add to flour. Stir in butter, milk and Cointreau. Whisk until smooth. Cover and refrigerate overnight.
For the grapefruit marmalade: Peel grapefruit, removing white pith from rind. Thinly slice rind. Peel and finely chop segments, reserving juice. In medium saucepan combine rind, chopped segments and juice, water and cardamom. Bring to simmer over medium heat and cook 10 minutes. Add vanilla and sugar, stirring to dissolve. Cook slowly over low heat until mixture thickens. Let cool completely and store in airtight container.
For the pastry cream: In saucepan, heat milk to simmer. In medium bowl, combine sugar, cornstarch and salt. Whisk in yolks and vanilla until mixture is pale yellow. Temper egg mixture by whisking in 1/2 cup hot milk. Gradually pour remaining milk, whisking constantly. Transfer mixture to medium saucepan and heat, stirring constantly, until mixture thickens. Stir in butter and Cointreau. Place in bowl and cover surface of cream directly with plastic. Refrigerate until needed.
To serve: Heat nonstick crepe pan and add one teaspoon butter. Using small ladle, pour one ounce crepe batter to pan, tilting pan to coat bottom. When edge of crepe is golden brown, turn to finish cooking, about 10 seconds more. Place crepe on parchment paper. Repeat with remaining batter, stacking crepes between sheets of parchment. Fold 1/2 cup marmalade into pastry cream. To assemble, place crepe on work surface and top with thin layer of pastry cream. Continue stacking crepes and cream, ending with a crepe. Transfer to serving dish and garnish with marmalade, grapefruit segments and vanilla bean.
For the crepes:
6 ounces all-purpose flour 1 1/2 ounces granulated sugar 1 teaspoon salt 3 eggs 3 egg yolks 3 ounces butter, melted 1 1/2 cups milk, hot 2 ounces Cointreau
For the grapefruit marmalade:
1 pink grapefruit 1 cup water 6 cardamom pods, crushed and toasted 1 vanilla bean, split and scraped 24 ounces granulated sugar
For the pastry cream:
3 cups milk 6 ounces granulated sugar 2 ounces cornstarch 1/2 teaspoon salt 10 egg yolks 1 teaspoon vanilla extract 1 ounce butter 2 ounces Cointreau
To serve:
Butter, as needed
For the garnish:
Peeled pink grapefruit segments Slivered vanilla bean
Grapefruit Gelee (Serves 4)
Moscato d'Asti
Malgra
Piedmont, Italy 2006
For the avocado sherbet: In blender, combine avocado, sugar, corn syrup, milk and cream and puree until smooth. Pass mixture through fine-mesh sieve and stir in lime juice and pinch of salt. Place in Pacojet® containers and freeze overnight. Process in Pacojet® according to manufacturer's instructions.
For the grapefruit chip: Preheat oven to 250 degrees. Place grapefruit slices on Silpat®-lined sheet pan and sprinkle with powdered sugar. Place in oven until dry and crisp, about one hour.
For the grapefruit gelee: In saucepan, combine syrup and grapefruit juice and bring to simmer. Remove from heat and stir in bitters. Squeeze excess liquid from gelatin stir into syrup mixture until dissolved. Pour into container and refrigerate until set. Using hand-held immersion blender, puree gelee until smooth.
To serve: Spoon gelee into shallow bowl and sprinkle with chopped grapefruit. Top with sherbet and grapefruit chip. Garnish with jicama, lime zest and juice.
For the avocado sherbet:
5 ounces avocado, coarsely chopped 2 ounces granulated sugar 1 1/2 ounces corn syrup 4 1/2 ounces milk 2 1/2 ounces heavy cream Juice of 1 lime Sea salt to taste
For the grapefruit chip:
1 pink grapefruit, thinly sliced Confectioners' sugar, as needed
For the grapefruit gelee:
1 cup simple syrup 3 1/4 cups freshly squeezed grapefruit juice 1 teaspoon bitters 8 sheets gelatin, softened in cold water
For the garnish:
Finely chopped ruby red grapefruit segments Julienned jicama Grated lime zest Lime juice
Mascarpone Honey Tart (Serves 4)
Mead
Lurgashall
West Sussex, England
For the oven-dried grapefruit: Preheat oven to 250 degrees. Place grapefruit on Silpat®-lined sheet pan and bake until chewy but not crisp, about one to two hours.
For the phyllo crisp: In saucepan, combine honey and butter over low heat, stirring to combine. On sheet pan, place one sheet of phyllo and brush with a thin layer of honey mixture. Top with another sheet of phyllo and repeat process with remaining honey mixture and phyllo. Refrlgerate 30 minutes to set. Preheat oven to 325 degrees. Then cut dough into 12 rectangular portions. Place on Silpat®-lined sheet pan and place another sheet pan on top. Bake until golden brown and crisp. [Note: makes more than needed for recipe.]
For the honey-mascarpone cream: In large bowl, whisk together mascarpone and honey until light and fluffy. Transfer to pastry bag.
To serve: Place phyllo crisp on plate and top with honey-mascarpone cream. Garnish with dried and fresh grapefruit segments. Drizzle honey alongside and sprinkle with pollen.
For the oven-dried grapefruit:
Peeled segments of 1 ruby red grapefruit
For the phyllo crisp:
6 tablespoons honey 6 tablespoons butter 6 sheets phyllo dough
For honey-mascarpone cream:
1 pound mascarpone Honey, to taste
For the garnish:
Peeled pink grapefruit segments Fennel pollen Colorado clover honey
Living One Life
Morou Chef/Owner, FARRAH OLIVIA, Alexandria, Virginia
Jarrah Olivia, named for Morou's first daughter, is a small, modest-seeming restaurant attached to a Balducci's market in suburban Alexandria, Virginia. It has all the appeal of a favorite neighborhood spot, but it's probably not the kind of place you'd expect to find an Iron Chef contender.
"What my wife and I didn't want to do was raise a lot of money from a lot of people, and have people who were going to tell us what to do," he says. "We wanted to do small-scale, just like it used to be done before: go to the bank and borrow money." Without the investors' millions, they created a restaurant that gets away from the theatrics and back to focusing on Morou's self-described "creative American" cuisine.
Considering he lost his last position as the fall-out of a political scandal, his insistence on self-reliance makes perfect sense. Morou is done hitching his fate to someone else's star. "We didn't want to go through the cycle again;" he explains, "go to somebody else's restaurant and two years later, something happens and they're no longer there, you know?"
In 2005, Morou was still the executive chef of Signatures when its owner found himself at the center of a high-profile investigation into illegal lobbying practices. "Once Jack Abramoff started having his problems," Morou begins tactfully, "we knew that it was going to be difficult for us to survive. The restaurant was built on clientele that wouldn't want to be seen at Jack Abramoff's place, so they stopped coming in."
Finally in November, Morou had to orchestrate the closing of the place, a task he saw through to the final detail. "We decided to work just a few days to be able to pay our employees and our vendors." Then on Wednesday the fifteenth, Morou locked the doors after the lunch service. That evening, he kept an obligation to do a charity event for the March of Dimes, then returned to Signatures to find work for his crew. "I called around to restaurants to see who was looking for an employee and sent my best employees there," he recalls. "And then the following days we got back in and made sure that DC Central Kitchen came and got our food, so it didn't spoil."
The month before, Morou had won the opportunity to compete on Iron Chef America. But when Signatures closed, he no longer had a restaurant to sponsor him, a kitchen to prepare himself in, or a staff to join him for the battle. That's when friends and the community showed their support. Morou's pastry chef, Leon Baker stuck by him, as did his sous chef, Eddie Marine, even though he had taken a position at Red Sage. Colleagues at the Caucus Room let them practice in their kitchen, and mayor Anthony Williams and his office, as well as members of the D.C. Restaurant Association, accompanied the team to New York. For the battle, the ingredient was frozen peas. "We lost to Bobby Flay," Morou says, smiling slightly. "He did a good job."
Almost a year to the day after the Signatures closing, he opened Farrah Olivia. He and his wife took their time to find exactly what they wanted: an existing, but vacated, restaurant space. They found it at Balducci's in Alexandria. Balducci's had decided to forego running its own restaurants and hoped for a chef with a name and reputation to attract more business in the form of ready-to-go dinners. "At the beginning the deal was, I was going to create meals for them, and do demonstrations around the different Balducci's." Reality suggested a different course of action. "It's so hard to open a restaurant," he explains. "Maybe after a year here, we'll go back to the deal and actually do it."
He's also contemplating other ways of expanding his career. "Restaurants don't pay," he says. "You have to find a way of getting another restaurant, or a third restaurant. Then again, I have an excuse for that: our second daughter. In about a year or two she'll be able to understand that her sister has a restaurant but she doesn't. So I have to get her a restaurant," he laughs.
In spite of being a cast member on Food Network's The Next Iron Chef, Morou doesn't believe television is the way to go. "A TV show? Nah. I don't want to say I don't like TV, but it's too much out of you, you know what I mean? If you want to be a chef in your restaurant, you want to be a chef cooking, then it's not for you. It's a lot more work than people think it is. Too much stress."
For now, Morou is busy dispelling misconceptions about his cuisine. While he was at Red Sage and Signatures, he realized people regarded him as an African chef because of his personal efforts to educate the public about African spices and ingredients. "Signatures and I, and Red Sage and I, we lived two different lives. I remember the Smithsonian Folklife Festival called me to do a demonstration. What they wanted me to do was African food, but Signatures wasn't that," he says. "When I go out there, I try to show people how they can use African spices and twist them around, how African food can fit on an American plate." Today, with a menu entirely his own, he can continue teaching directly through his cooking, incorporating international flavors from Africa and beyond. "Now that I have my own kitchen, I can live one life, you know what I mean?"
Under the Sea Panoramic (Serves 4)
Sauvignon Blanc "Retreat"
Robertson
Robertson Valley, South Africa 2006
For the lobster tea broth: In large pot, bring water onion, carrot, garlic, lemongrass, lime leaves, pepper corns, thyme and vinegar to boil. Simmer 25 minutes Strain through fine-mesh sieve.
Transfer broth to clean pot and add lobster. Simmer five minutes. Remove lobster and chill in ice water bath, reserving broth. Remove meat. Reserve meat and shells separately. Crush lobster head in food processor. In separate pot, combine lobster head, reserved shells, shallots and leeks. Add verjus and reserved broth. Over low heat, bring to simmer and cook 30 minutes, skimming as needed. Strain through fine-mesh sieve and season with salt. Strain through fine-mesh sieve lined with paper filter and reserve. [Note: makes more than needed for recipe.]
For the silver "rocks": In saucepan, combine agar-agar and clam juice and let soak 15 minutes. Over medium heat, bring mixture to boil and simmer, stirring to dissolve agar-agar. Remove from heat and whisk in lemon juice and salt. Transfer to squeeze bottle. Squeeze drops of different sizes into oil. Drain and refrigerate until cold. Spray "rocks" with silver paint and let dry five minutes. Refrigerate until needed.
For the grapefruit "air": In bowl, combine juice, sugar and soy lecithin. Using hand-held immersion blender, blend until frothy.
For the tea: In bowl, combine apricots, star anise, saffron, grapefruit rind, lime leaf, chamomile and cinnamon. Place mixture in French press. Bring broth to simmer and add to press. Let steep five minutes and depress plunger.
To serve: Place "rocks" on plate and top with oyster, sea urchin roe, reserved lobster meat, and seaweed. Garnish oyster with grapefruit, top with "air" and pour tea on dish tableside.
For the lobster tea broth:
1 quart water 1/2 onion, peeled and finely chopped 1 carrot, peeled and finely chopped 2 cloves garlic, peeled and crushed 1 stick lemongrass, finely chopped 3 kaffir lime leaves 1 teaspoon black peppercorns 4 sprigs thyme 1 tablespoon white wine vinegar 20-ounce whole lobster 2 shallots, peeled and finely chopped 1/2 leek, finely chopped 1 tablespoon verjus Salt to taste
For the silver "rocks":
4 teaspoons agar-agar 2 cups clam juice Juice of 1 lemon 2 cups grapeseed oil, chilled Edible silver paint spray Salt to taste
For the grapefruit "air":
1 cup grapefruit juice 1 tablespoon granulated sugar 2 teaspoons soy lecithin
For the tea:
2 dried apricots, finely chopped 1 star anise, cracked 10 saffron threads 1 teaspoon finely chopped, dried grapefruit rind 1 kaffir lime leaf, finely chopped 2 tablespoons chamomile flowers 1 stick cinnamon, crushed 1 1/2 cups lobster broth, from above
For the garnish:
Kumamoto oysters, shucked Sea urchin roe Assorted dried seaweed Diced, peeled grapefruit segments
Painted White Tuna with Pink Grapefruit Pearls and Pickled Watermelon Rind (Serves 8)
Riesling "Nicholas Estate"
Anam Cara
Willamette Valley, Oregon 2006
For the pickled watermelon rind: In saucepan, combine vinegar, sugar, water, ginger and onion. Bring to boil, stirring until sugar dissolves. Remove from heat. Place watermelon rind in bowl and cover with vinegar mixture. Cover and refrigerate two days.
For the black painted tuna: In saucepan, bring water to boil. In bowl, combine soy sauce, wine and ink. Place tuna in boiling water for 10 seconds. Remove and add to soy sauce mixture. Marinate two hours. Remove from marinade and drain on paper towels. Refrigerate until needed.
For the yellow painted tuna: In saucepan, combine wine and saffron and bring to simmer. Remove from heat and let steep five minutes. Strain through fine-mesh sieve and place in bowl. Stir in grapefruit juice and mirin, and season with salt. Bring water to boil. Add tuna and boil 10 seconds. Remove and add to grapefruit juice mixture. Marinate two hours. Remove from marinate and drain on paper towels. Refrigerate until needed.
For the red painted tuna: In blender, combine beets and wine and puree until smooth. Transfer to bowl and stir in soy sauce. Bring water to boil and add tuna. Boil 10 seconds. Remove tuna and place in beet mixture. Marinate two hours. Remove from marinade and drain on paper towels. Refrigerate until needed.
For the grapefruit pearls: In bowl, whisk together grapefruit juice, syrup and sodium alginate. Transfer to squeeze bottle. In large bowl combine water and calcium chloride. Squeeze grapefruit juice mixture into water one drop at a time. Leave pearls in water about one minute, then remove and rinse under cold water.
For the ginger powder: In blender, combine candied ginger and oil and puree until smooth. [Note: makes more than needed for recipe] Strain through fine-mesh sieve lined with paper filter. Place maltodextrin in bowl and add one tablespoon oil mixture. Whisk until oil is absorbed.
For the sriracha mayonnaise: Place mayonnaise in bowl and fold in sriracha. Stir in lemon juice and soy sauce.
For the wasabi mayonnaise: In bowl, whisk together wasabi and water. Let rest 10 minutes. In separate bowl, place mayonnaise. Whisk in wasabi mixture. Season with salt.
To serve: Using kitchen torch, sear each piece of tuna just until surface bubbles and tuna begins to cook. Thinly slice tuna. Stack slices of black, yellow and red tuna on plate with watermelon rind, ginger powder, and small container of grapefruit pearls. Spoon sriracha mayonnaise and wasabi mayonnaise between tunas and garnish with micro amaranth.
For the pickled watermelon rind:
3 cups cider vinegar 1 quart granulated sugar 1 cup water 4-inch piece ginger, peeled and finely julienned 1 red onion, peeled and thinly sliced Peeled rind of 1 watermelon
For the black painted tuna:
2 cups water 1 cup soy sauce 1/2 cup red wine 1 tablespoon squid ink 8 ounces white tuna, cut into 8 2-inch long rectangles
For the yellow painted tuna:
1/2 cup white wine 1/2 teaspoon saffron threads 1 cup grapefruit juice 2 tablespoons mirin 2 cups water 8 ounces white tuna, cut into 8 2-inch long rectangles Salt to taste
For the red painted tuna:
2 beets, roasted, peeled and coarsely chopped 1/2 cup red wine 1 cup soy sauce 2 cups water 8 ounces white tuna, cut into 8 2-inch long rectangles
For the grapefruit pearls:
3 1/2 ounces pink grapefruit juice 7 ounces simple syrup 1/2 teaspoon sodium alginate 1 quart water 1 1/2 teaspoons calcium chloride
For the ginger powder:
2 tablespoons candied ginger 1/4 cup vegetable oil 1 cup tapioca maltodextrin
For the sriracha mayonnaise:
1 cup mayonnaise 2 tablespoons sriracha* Juice of 1/4 lemon 1 teaspoon soy sauce
For the wasabi mayonnaise:
3/4 cup wasabi powder 1/2 cup water 1 cup mayonnaise Salt to taste
For the garnish:
Micro red amaranth
*Thai hot chili sauce. Available through Thai Supermarket Online, (888) 618-8424 or www.importfood.com.
Chocolate-Glazed Pork Shoulder with Grapefruit Jelly and Hibiscus Sauce (Serves 8)
Pinot Noir, Dierburg
Flying Goat
Santa Maria Valley, California 2005
For the pork shoulder: In food processor, combine achiote, garlic, turmeric, cumin, coriander, ginger, orange juice and grapefruit juice. Blend until smooth. Season with sugar and salt. Place pork shoulder in container with onion, cilantro, bay leaf and jalapeno, and add achiote mixture. Cover and marinate in refrigerator overnight. Preheat oven to 300 degrees. Transfer all to roasting pan, cover and cook until shoulder is tender, about three hours. Remove shoulder and refrigerate until chilled. Cut into 4-inch rectangles and reserve. In stainless steel bowl, melt six ounces of chocolate over simmering water, stirring, until chocolate reaches 105 degrees. Remove from heat and stir in zest and remaining chocolate until mixture reaches 88-90 degrees. Dip reserved pork in chocolate and place on Silpat®-lined sheet pan to cool.
For the candied grapefruit rind: In saucepan, combine water, vinegar and onion and bring to boil. Stir in sugar and salt, and add ginger. Place rind in bowl and cover with vinegar mixture. Cover and refrigerate two days. Remove and discard ginger.
For the grapefruit jelly: In saucepan, combine grapefruit juice and agar-agar and let soak 12 minutes. Bring mixture to boil and simmer five minutes. Stir in sugar and salt until dissolved. Add lemon juice and orange zest. Pour into square mold and chill until set. Cut into 1-inch cubes and reserve.
For the hibiscus sauce: In saucepan, combine hibiscus flowers, cherries and red wine. Bring to simmer and cook until hibiscus and cherries are soft, about 20 minutes. Transfer to blender and, with motor running, slowly add Riesling, then butter. Strain through fine-mesh sieve and season with sugar, salt and pepper.
For the beet salad: In steamer, cook beets until tender, about 35 minutes. When cool enough to handle, remove skins. Halve and thinly slice and transfer to large bowl. In separate bowl, combine onion, cloves, orange juice, vinegar, honey, salt and pepper. Pour over beets. Fold in cilantro leaves and season with salt and pepper.
To serve: Arrange pork on plate with grapefruit jelly and candied grapefruit rinds. Place beet salad in glass cup and set alongside. Spoon hibiscus sauce down center and garnish jelly with candied hibiscus flower.
For the pork shoulder:
1/2 cup achlote paste 3 cloves garlic, peeled and finely chopped 1/2 teaspoon turmeric 1 teaspoon ground cumin 1 1/2 teaspoons ground coriander 1 tablespoon grated peeled ginger 1 quart orange juice 1 quart grapefruit juice Pinch of granulated sugar 2 pound pork shoulder 1 onion, peeled and coarsely chopped 1 bunch cilantro 1 bay leaf 1 jalapeno pepper 8 ounces semi-sweet chocolate 1/2 teaspoon grapefruit zest Salt to taste
For the candied grapefruit rind:
1 cup water 1 cup cider vinegar 1/2 onion, peeled and finely chopped 1 cup granulated sugar 1 teaspoon salt 2-inch piece ginger, halved Rind of 2 grapefruits, julienned
For the grapefruit jelly:
Juice of 2 grapefruits 3 teaspoons agar-agar 1/2 cup granulated sugar 1/4 teaspoon salt Juice of 2 lemons Zest of 1/2 orange
For the hibiscus sauce:
12 ounces dried hibiscus flowers** 2 cups dried cherries 1 quart red wine 3 cups Robertson Noble Late Harvest Riesling*** 8 ounces butter Granulated sugar to taste Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
For the beet salad:
6 baby golden beets 1/2 red onion, peeled and thinly sliced 1/4 teaspoon ground cloves Juice of 1 orange 1/4 cup cider vinegar 2 tablespoons honey Small bunch of cilantro leaves Salt and freshly ground white pepper to taste
For the garnish:
Candied hibiscus flowers*
*Available at Trader Joe's. Go to www.traderjoes.com for store locations.
**Available through Frontier Natural Products, (800) 669-3275 or www.frontiercoop.com.
***From Robertson Valley, South Africa.
Pink Grapefruit Soup with Rosewater and Tapioca (Serves 6)
Moscato d'Asti
Eredi Lodali
Piedmont, Italy 2006
For the soup: In bowl, combine all ingredients, stirring to dissolve sugar, Cover and refrigerate to chill completely.
For the shredded tapioca: Bring medium pot of water to boil. Add tapioca and cook until tender. Drain and rinse under cold water. Refrigerate to chill completely.
For the candied grapefruit: In saucepan, combine isomalt and water and bring to boil, stirring. Cool slightly over ice water bath. Lightly coat sheet pan with cooking spray. Dip grapefruit segments in isomalt and transfer to prepared sheet pan to dry. Keep remaining isomalt warm.
To serve: Place a quarter-inch dot of reserved isomalt in center of bowl. Use isomalt to stand candied grapefruit on its end. Pour soup around, add tapioca and garnish with micro greens.
For the soup:
35 ounces grapefruit puree 2 cups water 10 ounces granulated sugar 5 teaspoons rosewater
For the shredded tapioca:
1 cup shredded tapioca**
For the candied grapefruit:
2 cups isomalt 1/2 cup water 6 grapefruit segments
For the garnish:
Micro greens
*Available through Paris Gourmet, (800) 727-8791 or www.parisgourmet.com.
**Available at Asian markets.
Duck Au Pamplemousse (Serves 6)
Mourvedre "Hacienda"
Cass Estate
Paso Robles, California 2005
For the duck: In large bowl, combine water, salt, sugar, lemongrass, lime leaves and ginger. Using hand-held immersion blender, puree until smooth. Place duck in non-reactive container and add lemongrass mixture. Marinate three hours. Remove duck and pat dry. Roll each duck breast into cylinder and tie with kitchen twine. Cover and refrigerate until needed.
For the grapefruit-apricot sauce: In saute pan, heat oil over medium heat. Add onion and cook until softened. Stir in garlic, apricots, cinnamon, cumin and coriander. Cook three minutes. Add grapefruit and orange juices, bring to boil and reduce by half Stir in stock. Simmer and reduce until sauce coats back of wooden spoon, about 25 minutes. Remove and discard cinnamon. In blender, puree mixture and return to pan. Whisk in butter, season with sugar and salt and keep warm.
For the grains of paradise sauce: In blender, puree onion, garlic and tomato. In saute pan, heat oil over medium heat and add onion mixture. Cook three minutes. Stir in tomato paste and cook three minutes more. Stir in grains of paradise and melon seeds. Cook two minutes. Add stock and bring to boil. Simmer and reduce until sauce coats back of wooden spoon, about 30 minutes. Season with salt and keep warm.
For the polenta: Heat oil in saute pan over medium heat. Add onion and cook until softened. Reduce heat to low, add garlic and cook one minute more. Over high heat, add stock and bring to boil. Slowly whisk in cornmeal. Cover and cook until smooth, about 35 minutes, stirring occasionally. Remove from heat and stir in butter, mascar-pone cheese, Parmesan cheese, salt, pepper and zest Line six 2 1/2-inch ring molds with bubble wrap. Fill molds with cornmeal mixture and refrigerate to cool completely.
For the cabbage: In deep-fryer or tall-sided pot, heat canola oil to 350 degrees. Fry potato until tender, about five minutes, and set aside. In bowl, whisk together lemon juice, vinegar and sugar. [Note: makes more than needed for recipe] Heat oil in saute pan over high heat. Add cabbage and onion and cook until tender but crisp. Add reserved sweet potato, apricots, green onions and cilantro. Cook three minutes. Stir in one tablespoon vinegar mixture. Season with salt and pepper. Add grapefruit segments and toss to combine.
For the marshmallow: In bowl, combine gelatin and 1/4 cup water and let soak 10 minutes. In large saucepan, combine remaining water and sugar over low heat. Cook, stirring to dissolve sugar. Stir in gelatin. Bring to boil and let boil 15 minutes without stirring. Remove from heat and cool until slightly warm. Add grapefruit oil. Using hand-held immersion blender, blend mixture until white and thick. Transfer to pastry bag fitted with round tip and reserve.
To serve: Preheat oven to 400 degrees. In deep-fryer or tall-sided pot, heat canola oil to 350 degrees. Remove bubble wrap from polenta and fry until golden. Drain on paper towels. Heat olive oil in saute pan over medium heat. Cook duck breasts until golden brown on all sides and transfer to oven to finish cooking, about ten minutes. Let rest five minutes before removing twine and slicing. Arrange duck and polenta on plate. Top duck with cabbage. Pipe marshmallow onto polenta and brown with kitchen torch. Spoon grapefruit-apricot sauce along one side, and grains of paradise sauce along the other.
For the duck:
2 quarts water 3/4 cup salt 2 cups granulated sugar 6 stalks lemongrass, coarsely chopped 20 kaffir lime leaves 1 cup grated peeled ginger 6 duck breasts
For the grapefruit-apricot sauce:
2 tablespoons canola oil 1 onion, peeled and coarsely chopped 2 cloves garlic, peeled and finely chopped 10 apricots, pitted and coarsely chopped 1 stick cinnamon 1 teaspoon ground cumin 1 teaspoon ground coriander Juice of 1 1/4 grapefruits Juice of 3 oranges 2 quarts chicken stock 2 tablespoons butter Granulated sugar to taste Salt to taste
For grains of paradise sauce:
1/2 onion, peeled and coarsely chopped 2 cloves garlic, peeled and finely chopped 1 tomato, coarsely chopped 2 tablespoons canola oil 1 teaspoon tomato paste 2 tablespoons ground grains of paradise 1 tablespoon ground melon seeds* 2 quarts duck stock Salt to taste
For the polenta:
2 tablespoons olive oil 1 onion, peeled and finely chopped 2 cloves garlic, peeled and finely chopped 1 quart chicken stock 1 cup coarse cornmeal 1 1/2 ounces butter 2 ounces mascarpone cheese 1 ounce Parmesan cheese, grated 1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper Zest of 1/4 grapefruit
For the cabbage:
1 quart canola oil 1 sweet potato, peeled and diced Juice of 1 lemon 1/4 cup rice vinegar 1 teaspoon granulated sugar 1/4 cup grapeseed oil 1/4 head of cabbage, cored and thinly sliced 1 red onion, peeled and thinly sliced 5 apricots, peeled, pitted and quartered 2 green onions, thinly sliced 1 bunch cilantro leaves Peeled segments of 1 grapefruit Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
For the marshmallow:
2 tablespoons powdered gelatin 1 1/4 cups cold water 2 cups granulated sugar 1 teaspoon grapefruit essential oil
To serve:
2 quarts canola oil 2 tablespoons olive oil
*Also called egusi. Available through Sheba Foods, (770) 982-1000 or www.shebafoods.com.
Ruby Red Grapefruit Push Pops with Grapefruit Meringue (Serves 8)
Late Harvest Zinfandel "Rosie Rabbit"
Rosenblum
Alameda, California 2005
For the sorbet: In bowl, combine all ingredients, stirring to dissolve sugar. Transfer to ice cream maker and process according to manufacturer's Instructions. Pipe into push-up pop holders, tapping to release trapped air. Freeze until needed.
For the blackberry pearls: Let oil sit at room temperature to melt slightly. Place on ice. In saucepan, combine puree, water, sugar and agar-agar to boil, stirring to dissolve sugar. Let cool to room temperature. Transfer to squeeze bottle and add drop by drop to grapeseed oil. Strain through fine-mesh sieve and rinse pearls under cold water. Drain on paper towels and reserve.
For the grapefruit meringue: In mixer fitted with whisk attachment, whip egg whites to soft peaks. Slowly add sugar and continue whipping to stiff peaks. Stir in oil.
To serve: Place push pops on tray and top with meringue. Arrange blackberry pearls alongside and serve.
For the sorbet:
35 ounces ruby red grapefruit puree* 2 cups warm water 10 ounces granulated sugar
For the blackberry pearls:
2 quarts grapeseed oil, frozen 2 cups blackberry puree* 1 cup water 7 ounces granulated sugar 2 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon agar-agar
For the grapefruit meringue:
7 egg whites 7 ounces granulated sugar 1 teaspoon grapefruit essential oil
*Available through Paris Gourmet, (800) 727-8791 or www.parisgourment.com.
 Printer friendly
 Cite/link
 Email
 Feedback
| |
| Publication: | Art Culinaire |
|---|---|
| Article Type: | Recipe |
| Geographic Code: | 1USA |
| Date: | Dec 22, 2007 |
| Words: | 7101 |
| Previous Article: | Gilles Verot: charcutier. |
| Next Article: | A small cuppa history. |
| Topics: | |
| Grapefruit pectin reduces cholesterol. |
| Just the grapefruit facts. |
| One for the birds. |
| The power in grapefruit. . |