Fine dining that's worth every penny; TABLE TALK Kirstie McCrum eats, shoots and scores... Tempus @ Tides at St David's Hotel and Spa.

For Cardiff's St David's Hotel and Spa, there's little more that can be done to raise its profile. With its modern architecture and enviable position on the water in Cardiff Bay, it's got the cosmetic bases covered.

But the feeling is that the hotel's Tempus Restaurant at Tides is an overlooked eatery in the capital, hampered by the belief perhaps that only guests in the five-star luxury surroundings can enjoy the restaurant. It's a shameful misconception, and one that should be addressed.

After all, where else could diners in Cardiff go to get waterside views overlooking Cardiff Bay and towards Penarth along with a menu packed with fine dining options? Where else the expertise of a full-time sommelier with every member of the waiting staff but in an atmosphere more reminiscent of a comfortable neighbourhood eatery than stiff-collared silver service restaurant? Taking our seats on a Wednesday night, the bar is more than midweek busy, but there are spaces in the restaurant.

We were introduced to a friendly and efficient waitress, and instantly at ease in the upmarket surroundings as she whisked us through the menu offering affable recommendations on drinks and food, even coming up with wine matches for our preferred dishes.

Sitting with a selection of warm artisan-style breads served with Nocellara olives, olive oil, and aged balsamic (PS4), there was the feeling of being on holiday in our very own hometown. Watching the setting sun dance on the rippling water outside and being surrounded by bustling conversation made the stresses and strains of the working week fade away, and the delicious freshly-baked bread dipped in high quality oil and vinegar was an ideal nudge towards the meal.

With our attentive waitress' assistance, we made our bar order with sparkling water (PS4.95) and a bottle of Alisios Pinot Grigio (PS25.50), a recommended match for the seafood I ordered for my selections.

First up, I had the Tempus Seafood Cocktail (PS8.75), a modern take on the traditional dish with a variety of shellfish including prawns, crab and crayfish in dressings. Like an old favourite with a modern twist, the subtlety of the seafood was not lost, its freshness the star of the show.

My boyfriend, the more carnivorous sort, selected the ham hock and mustard seed terrine with apple (PS5.50), a warming dish with a punch to the tastebuds from the mustard seeds, the layers of ham offering a meaty foil to the apple's sweetness.

My main, recommended by our accommodating server, was pan-roasted wild sea bass fillet, crab pomme d'ecrasses and baby gem (PS23.75). A real vanity project for any chef, the sea bass was perfectly cooked, its tender flesh flaking under my fork, while the delicious crab was bound in a perfectly crumbed ball and the crushed potatoes seasoned with expertise and great care.

Across the table, my partner tucked into roast rump of lamb, dauphinoise potatoes, soured cabbage and an oregano jus (PS21.25) with a side of wilted spinach (PS3). Matched with a glass of Pinot Noir de l'Hospitalet ICP d'Oc (PS7.35) by our server, the dish was beautifully cooked with delicately layered potato while the oregano jus gave just the right balance of flavour to the sweetness of the perfectly roasted lamb.

For dessert, a warm chocolate fondant with passion fruit (PS6.50) had my companion practically giddy, cooked to perfection giving its molten centre up with a deft slice of the spoon.

My vanilla creme brulee (PS6.50) was perfectly sweet, tempered by the tartness of a rhubarb compote which took me back to childhood.

As a restaurant in a hotel, Tempus is breathtaking. The service never fell below solicitous, and the interest that was paid to our every wish was both unusual and heartening.

The price tag means it is the sort of destination which is reserved for special occasions, but on the strength of our visit, the culinary skill evident in each mouthful alongside the service boosts Tempus @ Tides to somewhere up with the best restaurants in Cardiff.

| www.thestdavidshotel.com | 029 2045 4045

Watching the setting sun dance on the rippling water outside and being surrounded by bustling conversation made the stresses and strains of the working week fade away

CAPTION(S):

Tempus seafood cocktail

Vanilla creme brulee and rhubarb compote

Lamb, dauphinoise potatoes, cabbage and oregano jus

Ham hock and mustard seed terrine, apple and mache

Pan-roasted wild sea bass fillet, crab pomme d'ecrasses and baby gem

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Title Annotation:	Features
Publication:	Western Mail (Cardiff, Wales)
Date:	Jun 15, 2013
Words:	744
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Topics:	Hotels and motels