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Whatever the subject, the barbecue experience is a primal one.

A burning marshmallow on the end of a stick-this is typically the budding Western chef's first barbecue experience. He will go on to frankfurters, and eventually to chicken, steak, perhaps even turkey. Whatever the subject, the experience is a primal one nothing between the cook and the fire except the meat, as it was in the beginning, before stoves and boutique cookware were invented. John Prince's Marinated Beef on a Stick requires a higher degree of skill than toasting a marshmallow, but it's still easy. Nevertheless, the taste is rich and complex. The marinade really penetrates the thin slices of meat, becoming a part of it and not just a cosmetic. Marinated Beef on a Stick
1 1/2 pounds boneless top sirloin steak,
 trimmed of all fat
1/2 cup soy sauce
 2 tablespoons each salad oil, honey,
 and red wine vinegar
 1 clove garlic, minced or pressed
1/4 teaspoon pepper
1/2 teaspoon ground ginger

Cut steak across the grain into 1/4-inch thick slices, each about 4 inches long. For easier slicing, you can place the steak in the freezer until partially firm, 30 to 45 minutes, before cutting it.) Put meat in a bowl and add soy, oil, honey, vinegar, garlic, pepper, and ginger. Mix well; cover and chill 1 to 2 hours. Lift meat from marinade, drain briefly, then weave thin skewers in and out of slices so meat lies flat. Place skewers on a lightly greased barbecue grill 4 to 6 inches above a solid bed of hot coals (you should be able to hold your hand at grill level for only 2 to 3 seconds). Cook, turning to brown evenly, and baste frequently with reserved marinade until done to your liking (cut to test), 4 to 5 minutes total for medium-rare. Makes 6 servings. Per serving: 257 cal ; 24 g protein; 14 g fat; 8.3 g carbo.; 1, 435 mg sodium; 68 mg chol. Whatever embellishment Chuck Forsyth gives his barbecue sandwich, it isn't in the forthright name: Pig Sandwich. But the name fits. Not only is this a sandwich, and not only does the meat come from a pig, but the end result is a down-home dish that stands on its own merits, without any ballyhoo. Just take a taste and you'll see. The meat is so thoroughly cooked that it can be shredded by forks or fingers; in the vernacular of its native mid-South, it is pulled, as opposed to sliced, barbecue. The sauce also takes its origin from the mid-South, but Forsyth has given it a Southwestern spin with green chilies and added some Northwestern sweetness with apple cider. If you or your guests are fire eaters, you can add crushed dried hot red chilies or a sprinkle of cayenne. Pig Sandwich
 1 bone-in pork butt or shoulder (5
 to 6 lb.)
1/2 to 1 teaspoon liquid smoke
1/2 cup cider vinegar
 1 cup apple cider or juice
 1 cup prepared barbecue sauce
 1 can (4 oz.) diced green chilies
10 to 12 hamburger buns or English
 muffins, halved and toasted
 1 or 2 medium-size red or white
 onions, thinly sliced
 Salt and pepper

Trim and discard excess fat from meat. Brush meat evenly with liquid smoke, then wrap in foil, sealing edges. Set packet in a 9- by 13-inch baking pan. Bake in a 300' oven until meat is tender enough to fall apart when prodded with a fork, 31/2 to 4 hours. Remove from oven, unwrap, and let cool. Meanwhile, combine vinegar, apple cider, barbecue sauce, and chilies in a 4- to 5quart pan. Bring to a boil over high heat, stirring often. Cover; remove from heat. When meat is cool enough to touch, shred it with your fingers or 2 forks, discarding bone, fat, and connective tissue. Measure green chili mixture and return to pan. Skim fat from drippings and discard; add drippings to green chili mixture and boil, uncovered, until reduced to original amount. Stir in the pork and heat to simmering. If made ahead, cover and chill up to 2 days. Reheat meat and sauce until simmering, then spoon onto toasted buns; add onions, and salt and pepper to taste. Serve as open-faced or covered sandwiches. Makes 10 to 12 sandwiches. Per sandwich: 363 cal.; 31 g protein; 14 g fat; 28 g carbo.; 536 mg sodium; 95 mg chol. This banana bran bread tastes so good that you won't even think about how healthy it is. Try a slice at night when the temptation to have a candy bar is strong. To be even more wholesomely practical, toast slices of banana bread for breakfast, or cut it very thin and spread with softened cream cheese for a light lunch. Banana Bran Bread
 1 cup all-purpose flour
 3/4 cup oat bran
1 1/4 teaspoons baking powder
 1/2 teaspoon baking soda
 1/4 teaspoon salt
 1 teaspoon grated lemon peel
 1/2 cup (1/6 lb.) butter or margarine
 1/2 cup sugar
 2 large eggs
 1 cup mashed ripe bananas (about
 2 medium-size)
 1/2 cup chopped walnuts

In a bowl, stir together flour, bran, baking powder, baking soda, and salt; set aside. in a mixer bowl, beat lemon peel, butter, and sugar until well blended; then add eggs, 1 at a time, beating well after each addition. Add flour mixture, banana, and nuts; stir until evenly moistened. Spoon batter into a buttered 4 1/2- by 8 1/2inch loaf pan. Bake in a 350 deg oven until bread begins to pull away from sides of pan and a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean, about 55 minutes. Let cool in pan for 10 minutes, then turn out onto a rack to cool completely. Serve or, if made ahead, wrap airtight and chill up to 2 days; freeze to store longer. Makes I loaf, about 13/4 pounds. Per 1 ounce: 87 cal.; 1.7g protein; 4.lg fat, 12g carbo.; 80 mg sodium; 21 mg chol Stuffed pasta must be a good idea, because many cuisines employ it. The Chinese may have been the first (with won ton), but kreplach go back a long way in Jewish cooking, as do pelmeni in Russian. But for exuberance in invention the Italians are far ahead of the field with their ravioli and its many descendants agnolotti, cappelletti, mezzelune, pansotti, tortellini, tortelloni, to name only the best known. And these are only the shapes; the fillings, and especially the sauces, display even wider variety. Charles Doody serves his tortellini in a Mornay sauce enlivened by gorgonzola cheese and walnuts. The sauce can be thinned (with broth) or thickened (with more cornstarch diluted with a little of the broth) to a texture you like. To lessen the burden of preparation, he uses packaged fresh tortellini. (Only the most dedicated or masochistic will trouble to make tortellini when good fresh ones can be purchased.) Tortellini with Walnut and Gorgonzola Sauce
1/2 cup chopped walnuts
3 tablespoons butter or margarine
1/4 cup finely chopped onion
2 cloves garlic, minced or pressed
2 teaspoons cornstarch
1 1/2 cups half-and-half (light cream)
1/2 cup regular-strength chicken broth
3 ounces (about 1/2 cup, packed)
 gorgonzola or blue cheese,
1 1/2 teaspoons lemon juice
1 tablespoon dry sherry
1/4 teaspoon each dry thyme leaves,
 dry rubbed sage, and dry
 marjoram leaves
1/8 teaspoon ground nutmeg
 Freshly ground pepper
2 packages (9 oz. each) fresh
 tortellini with meat filling

In a 10- to 12-inch frying pan, stir or shake walnuts often over medium-high heat until toasted, about 5 minutes. Pour from pan and set aside.

Melt butter in frying pan over medium heat; add onion and garlic and stir often until onion is limp, 8 to 10 minutes. Smoothly blend cornstarch with 1 to 2 tablespoons cream; add cornstarch mixture, remaining cream, and broth to pan.

Bring to a boil on high heat, stirring. Turn heat to low and add cheese, lemon juice, sherry, thyme, sage, marjoram, nutmeg, and pepper; stir until the cheese melts. Keep warm.

When you start the sauce, also bring about 3 quarts water to boiling on high heat in a 5- to 6-quart pan. Add tortellini; cook on high heat until tender to bite, about 8 minutes. Drain well. Add sauce to pan and mix with pasta; pour into a bowl and top with nuts. Makes 4 to 6 servings. Per serving: 508caL; 21 g protein; 27g fat; 47g carbo.; 674 mg sodium; 98 mg chol.
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Title Annotation:Chefs of the West; includes recipes
Date:Jun 1, 1990
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