Using a code reader.
Nothing can knock your day off track n faster than a "Check Engine" light popping up on your dash. You wonder if you should pull over and shut off your vehicle or drive right to a shop. A code reader/scanner can help you make the drive/no drive decision and even help you fix the problem. It works by plugging into the car's computer system and displaying a "trouble code."
A code reader/scanner is worth buying if you're a fairly competent amateur mechanic who understands how an engine works. But it's not a silver bullet that will always tell you exactly what's wrong. It'll give you a head start, but you'll still have to do some detective work before you start pulling and replacing parts (more on this later).
The least expensive units ($39 to $59) are simple code readers that burp up an alphanumeric trouble code but no information about what it means. You'll have to look up the code in a reference book or search the Internet. Midpriced units ($70 to $100) actually display the problem on the screen, like "P0115 Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit Malfunction." One model even accesses the Internet, so you can upload the trouble code to a Web site that has information on the most likely cause of the problem.
But if you're a true grease monkey, go for a scanner ($175 to $300). A scanner gives you real-time "live" information so you see the same data your car's computer is seeing. That saves you the hassle of diving under the hood (with a wiring diagram in hand), piercing wires and taking sensor readings.
Code reading and scanning sound simple, right? Well, there's more to it than that. A code that indicates your oxygen sensor is "lean" can mean the sensor is dead, or it can mean that the air/fuel mixture really is lean and you've got either a vacuum leak or a fuel problem. How do you know? Here are three ways to get to the root of a problem without replacing good parts.
1. Go to the code reader/scan tool manufacturer's Web site to see if it has information on your trouble code.
2. Take advantage of Internet forums. Just search for your car's model and add "forum" to the search term. Register for the site (usually flee) and post your question, including your vehicle's year, mileage, code number and what you've done so far. You'll be surprised by the number and quality of responses you get.
3. Subscribe to an online shop manual (see below). It will have not only all the carmaker's technical service bulletins listed but also the complete diagnostic procedure for your particular code. It will walk you through the testing procedure, telling you which wires to check and what voltages you should see. The services also include component locators to help you find the part in your vehicle, and wiring diagrams showing the connector position for each wire.
For more information
* Two online shop manuals: alldatadly.com; subscription is $27 per year eautorepair.net; subscription is $30 per year
* For more information on on-board diagnostics, visit epa.gov/obd/questions.htm
Hoist your bike to make room for your wheels
Surveys show that one of the major reasons buyers back away from a motorcycle purchase is that they'd have to park one of their cars outside to leave space for the bike. If you're facing that dilemma, consider installing a motorcycle storage lift. It'll lift your bike, four-wheeler or riding mower high enough to fit your car underneath it.
The Loft-It system from Tivan uses an electric motor and stainless steel cables to lift a bike (up to 1,200 lbs.) on a 4 x 8-ft. platform. The 7-amp, 110-volt motor plugs into an ordinary receptacle, so you won't have to call an electrician for special wiring. The motor senses the load and won't operate if you exceed the maximum lifting weight. You can install it yourself in about two hours with hand tools and a drill.
During biking season, either load the platform with your snow toys or fold it up against the wall. Loft-It costs $1,995 plus shipping. For more information and to locate a dealer, visit loft-it.com.
Run your bike onto the platform and flip the elevator switch. Once it's up and locked, restake your claim to the stall by parking your car under it.
by Rick Muscoplat
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|Title Annotation:||CAR & GARAGE|
|Publication:||The Family Handyman|
|Date:||Apr 1, 2009|
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