Tonight? farm-style simmered dinner. tomorrow? hearty salad lunch. all from one pot.
All from one pot
You cook just once to make the two meals shown here. First, there's simmered farm-style meat-and-vegetable feast. The leftovers make a hearty salad for another day. This French-style arrangement is a favorite with Nicole Perzik of Saratoga, California. Its main elements are beef and veal slow-cooked with vegetables.
The cooking broth becomes a first-course soup; eat it with marrow spread on small toast rounds (the marrow comes from bones that flavor the soup). Next comes a handsome platter of meats and vegetables that have simmered in the broth; with them serve a vinaigrette of green herbs.
Chill any remainders; then, to make a salad, chop the meat and vegetables and serve with the rest of the green sauce.
Beef and Veal Simmered Dinner
3 quarts water
3 pounds veal and beef bones, cut into 2- to 3-inch lengths
1 1/2 to pounds meaty veal shanks, cut into 3- to 4-inch lengths
3 pounds lean beef short ribs, cracked
10 medium-size carrots, peeled
1 large onion, cut in half
1 stalk celery, chopped
3 garlic cloves, peeled
1 tablespoon each juniper berries, whole cloves, and dry thyme leaves
5 bay leaves
About 2 teaspoons salt
8 medium-size thin-skinned potatoes (about 2 1/2-in. diameter), peeled
4 large leeks, washed well and with ends trimmed
4 small turnips (2- to 3-in. diameter), peeled and cut in half
Freshly ground pepper
3 pounds beef marrow bones, cut into 2- to 3-inch lengths
1/4 cup alphabet or other tiny dry pasta
Toasted croutons (directions follow)
Green sauce (recipe follows)
Pour water into a 12- to 14-quart pan. Add bones, veal shank, short ribs, 2 of the carrots (chopped), onion, celery, garlic, juniper berries, cloves, thyme, bay leaves, and 1 teaspoon of the salt. Cover and bring to a boil; reduce heat and simmer 1 1/2 hours. Remove loose bones and discard. (If desired, cover and chill as long as overnight; lift off and discard hard fat.)
Cut remaining carrots in half crosswise; lay carrots and potatoes on top of meat. Cover, bring to a boil, then reduce heat and simmer 15 minutes. Add leeks and turnips. Continue simmering, covered, until meats are very tender when pierced, about 45 minutes longer.
With a slotted spoon, lift meat and large vegetable pieces from pan and arrange on a large platter; cut leeks in half lengthwise. Sprinkle foods liberally with pepper; cover and keep warm in a 150| oven.
Pour broth through a fine wire strainer. Discard residue; return broth to pan.
Add marrow bones and pasta to broth.
Boil, uncovered, on high heat until marrow begins to pull from bones, about 15 minutes. Lift out bones and scoop out marrow into a small dish; keep marrow warm with meat platter.
Continue boiling broth with pasta on highest heat until reduced to 6 cups, about 5 minutes longer. Skim and discard fat from broth. Pour broth into a small tureen. Salt broth, meat, and vegetables to taste.
To present the meal, ladle the soup into small bowls; offer marrow to spread on the toasted croutons. Serve the meat and vegetables onto warmed dinner plates. Pass the green sauce in a bowl and let guests ladle the sauce over meat and vegetables as they like.
You can eat all the elements at the same time, or clear the soup before serving meats and vegetables. Makes 8 servings; if you want leftovers, serve the meal to 4 to 6 and expect to have enough left to make 2 to 4 main-dish salads.
Toasted croutons. Slice 2 crusty rolls (each about 6 in. long) crosswise into 1/4-inch-thick pieces. Lay rounds side by side in a single layer on a 10- by 15-inch baking pan. Broil 4 inches from heat until bread is golden and toasted, 3 or 4 minutes on each side. Serve hot or at room temperature.
Green sauce. Stir together 3/4 cup salad oil, 3 tablespoons drained capers, 3 tablespoons vinegar, 2 tablespoons each chopped shallots and chives, 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard, 1 egg yolk, 1/4 teaspoon pepper, and salt to taste. Just before serving, add 3 tablespoons minced parsley. If made ahead, cover the sauce and let stand up to 8 hours at room temperature.
Second-Day Beef and Veal Salad
Use any leftovers from the meat-and-vegetable platter to make this salad.
Pull meat off bones; discard bones. Cut vegetables into bite-size pieces. Pile shredded meat and vegatables onto salad plates lined with lettuce. Drizzle with remaining green sauce.
Photo: Rich flavor of simmered dinner comes from shanks, bones, and short ribs cooked with an abundance of vegetables
Photo: From one pot: meats, vegetables, a soup, and a small bowl of marrow (left). Tomorrow, there's salad vinaigrette (above)
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|Date:||Mar 1, 1984|
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