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The Western breakfast was not built in a day.

Other countries have taught us much about cooking but little about breakfast. That remains our own specialty; even the vaunted full British breakfast is only a sketchy plan upon which we, with our rich and varied agriculture and our equally rich and varied ethnic backgrounds, have built a mighty structure.

Take Bob Kerr's scrambled eggs, for instance: the British can give you eggs and bacon, of course-and the bacon might even be leaner than our own. But Cheddar cheese? Not until lunch, or possibly not even until after-dinner port. And salsa? Three thousand miles away, at least. And who would trade fresh orange juice for a grilled "tomahto," or hot biscuits for toast carefully chilled in a silver rack?

Bob's Scrambled Eggs

6 large eggs

2 tablespoons milk

4 slices crisply cooked bacon,

crumbled

2 tablespoons butter or margarine

1/4 cup thinly sliced green onion,

including tops

1 cup (4 oz.) shredded sharp cheddar

cheese

Prepared salsa

In a bowl, beat eggs until whites and yolks are well combined, then stir in milk and bacon. On medium beat, melt butter in an 8- to 10-inch frying pan with an ovenproof handle. Add egg mixture and cook until barely set; with a spatula, lift cooked egg from pan so uncooked portion can flow underneath. Remove from heat and sprinkle green onion and cheese evenly over eggs.

Place pan under a broiler, 3 to 4 inches from heat. Broil, watching carefully, just until cheese melts, 1 to 1-1/2 minutes. Add salsa to taste. Serves 2 or 3.

Per serving: 435 cal; 25g protein; 2.6 g carbo.; 36 g fat; 617 mg chol.; 590 mg sodium.

Why does Ralph Walker call his recipe Country Chicken Livers? Perhaps it is because the livers are bedded around mustard greens, which have a downhome, country sound. Although they still grow down home, where they form a principal ingredient in the celebrated pot liquor, mustard greens have also acquired a touch of big-city class, especially in Oriental restaurants. Fancy produce markets may offer several varieties, including a reddish-purple kind and the frilly, highly attractive mizuna mustard.

Mustard greens have a strong enough flavor to stand up to smoked meats and are good choices to serve with bacon, itself a natural accompaniment to liver.

Country Chicken Livers

About 1 pound mustard greens,

coarse stems removed

8 thick-cut slices bacon, cut in half

1 pound chicken livers

1 large onion, sliced

1/2 pound mushrooms, sliced

1 tablespoon each dry white wine

and Worcestershire

Rinse and drain mustard greens, then cut into wide strips; set aside.

In a 10- to 1 2-inch frying pan, cook bacon over medium heat until crisp; lift out and drain. Discard all but 3 tablespoons of the drippings, then put I tablespoon of the drippings into a 5- to 6-quart pan.

Meanwhile, rinse chicken livers, pat dry, and cut in half. Add livers to drippings in frying pan and cook on high heat, turning as needed, until slightly browned on all sides but still pink in center (cut to test). Lift out livers and set aside.

Add onion and mushrooms to frying pan, and pour in wine and Worcestershire. Cover and cook for 15 minutes, then uncover and continue to cook until most of the liquid evaporates, about 10 minutes longer. Return livers to pan and stir just until livers are heated through.

While onions and mushrooms cook, place the 5- to 6-quart pan on medium-high heat. Add mustard greens and stir until wilted. Mound greens in the center of a platter and keep warm. Spoon liver mixture around greens, and garnish with bacon. Makes 4 servings.

Per serving: 393 cal; 32 g protein; 15 g carbo.; 23 g fat; 523 mg chol.; 54 8 mg sodium.

Although the name suggests the very epitome of fast food, Dennis Dean's pizza burgers are carefully crafted, high-tech products. The seasonings are added to the meat rather than to the sauce, and their judicious blending makes a memorable sandwich, one that may even cure you of shaking catsup onto your hamburger.

If you don't have English muffins in the house, you can make an equally tasty, if flabbier, version with split and toasted hamburger buns.

Pizza Burgers

1 pound ground lean beef

1 large egg

3/4 cup grated parmesan cheese

1/4 cup chopped parsley

1 small onion, finely chopped

3/4 teaspoon each dry oregano leaves

and dry basil leaves

1/2 teaspoon ground cumin

1/4 teaspoon each dry rosemary leaves

and pepper

1/4 teaspoon fennel seed

Salt

4 slices (about 6 oz. total) provolone

cheese

4 English muffins, split and toasted

1/4 to 1/2 cup prepared pizza sauce or

spaghetti sauce

In a bowl, combine meat, egg, parmesan, parsley, onion, oregano, basil, cumin, rosemary, pepper, and fennel. Mix well and divide into 4 equal portions; shape each portion into a patty '/4 inch thick. Lightly sprinkle salt into a 10- to 1 2-inch frying pan over medium-high heat; when pan is hot, add meat patties and cook, turning once, until done to your liking (cut to test), 10 to 12 minutes for medium-rare. Top each patty with a slice of provolone cheese. When it begins to melt, transfer patties onto English muffin halves. Offer pizza sauce to spoon onto meat to taste, then top with remaining muffin halves. Makes 4 servings.

Per serving: 624 cal. ; 44 g protein; 30 g carbo.; 35 g fat; 181 mg chol.; 1,149 mg sodium.

Alas, some fastidious diners just will not soil their fingers with barbecue sauce. They miss half the fun, say those less finicky-licking their fingers to emphasize the point. William Geare, one of the latter, heats his crab in a barbecue sauce. He leaves it to the diner's ingenuity to fish out the crab meat and eat it with the sauce and sourdough bread for sopping. If you eat crab this way, we recommend wearing a bib, or at least a red necktie. For finicky diners, we suggest a less informal alternative: serve crab and sauce separately.

Crab with Barbecue Sauce

2 tablespoons butter or margarine

1 medium-size onion, finely chopped

3 cloves garlic, minced or pressed

1-3/4 cups or 1 can (14-1/2 oz.) regular

strength chicken broth

1 can (8 oz.) tomato sauce

1 cup catsup

1/2 cup each white wine vinegar and

firmly packed brown sugar

3 tablespoons Worcestershire

1 tablespoon soy sauce

1-1/2 teaspoons dry mustard

1 teaspoon each paprika and liquid

hot pepper seasoning

1/2 teaspoon each celery seed, ground

allspice, and dry thyme leaves

2 dry bay leaves

3 large Dungeness crab (5 to 6 Ib.

total), cooked and cracked

Sourdough bread, sliced and

toasted, if desired

Melt butter in a 5- to 6-quart pan over medium heat. Add onion and garlic and stir often until onion is limp, about 10 minutes. Stir in the broth, tomato sauce, catsup, vinegar, sugar, Worcestershire, soy, mustard, paprika, liquid hot pepper, celery seed, allspice, thyme, and bay. Bring to a boil over high heat; reduce heat and simmer, uncovered, until reduced to 3 cups, about 45 minutes.

If you want cold crab, serve sauce in individual bowls with crab to dip into sauce. Or add crab to sauce and let simmer until crab is heated through, 5 to 10 minutes, stirring gently several times. Serve bread with crab, and also dip it into the sauce. Makes about 3 cups sauce, 5 or 6 servings.

Per serving: 273 cal; 19 g protein; 38 g carbo.; 5. 7 g fat; 64 mg chol.; 1,307 mg sodium.
COPYRIGHT 1988 Sunset Publishing Corp.
No portion of this article can be reproduced without the express written permission from the copyright holder.
Copyright 1988 Gale, Cengage Learning. All rights reserved.

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Title Annotation:includes recipes
Publication:Sunset
Date:Dec 1, 1988
Words:1265
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