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The Skin Care Market.

Today's skin care market offers something for everyone as products are becoming increasingly customized to meet individual needs.

WHETHER YOUNG or old, everyone these days is interested in maintaining beautiful skin. It seems that many skin care companies adhere to the idea that it is never too soon to start fighting the signs of aging. From the "age defying" products for women who want to reduce fine lines and wrinkles to products for younger women ages 15-29 who want to get a head start on preventative skin care, there is a product to fit each individual need. Many of these products are designed for women in their 20s and 30s to slow and possibly prevent the appearance of skin aging, as well as for the mature skin market, women in their 40s and beyond, to repair and soften the appearance of older skin. Multiple action products are also becoming popular with busy women who want to take care of their skin, but who have limited time.

According to Information Resources Inc. (IRI), Chicago, supermarket, drug store and mass merchandise skin care sales totaled nearly $1.85 billion and grew 10% for the year ending Feb. 25. Facial cleansers represented 34.7% of the dollar share with sales of $640 million, and facial moisturizers represented 19.4% with sales of $358 million. Prestige skin care sales rose 6% last year to $1.7 billion, according to NPD BeautyTrends, Port Washington, NY.
Mass Market Skin Care Sales

Category Sales Change $ Share

Acne Treatments $326,183,552 13.2% 17.7
Depilatories $137,328,976 30.2% 7.4
Facial Cleansers $640,504,192 7.5% 34.7
Facial Moisturizers $358,440,512 -0.3% 19.4
Skin Fade/Age/Bleach Cream $385,072,576 18.7% 20.8
Totals $1,847,529,808 10.4% 100.0

Category Unit Sales Change

Acne Treatments 74,315,976 9.2%
Depilatories 25,880,154 9.8%
Facial Cleansers 142,886,112 3.1%
Facial Moisturizers 48,485,316 -2.6%
Skin Fade/Age/Bleach Cream 40,889,544 10.3%
Totals 332,457,102 4.9%

All figures for the year ended Feb. 25, 2001. Source: Information
Resources, Inc., Chicago.

"Today's on-the-go consumers expect more from their skin care products," said Timra Carlson, vice president of NPD BeautyTrends. "Last year's top new skin care launches represented new strides for antiaging products. With the introduction of sugar-derived acid alternatives and vitamins used in their purest forms, skin care manufacturers delivered what consumers wanted, immediate results that showed visible difference within a day."

According to NPD, the most notable prestige skin care launch for 2000 was Estee Lauder Idealist Skin Refinisher. Formulated to improve skin tone, balance moisture, reduce pore size and reduce fine lines, Idealist achieved the highest sales of any new launch in NPD's tracking history.

Yves Saint Laurent recently launched Lotion Eclat Matite, a vitamin-enriched beauty toner that imparts a matte appearance to the skin. The product contains extract of grapefruit seeds to purify and control oil; peach juice, which is naturally rich in pro-vitamin A, to smooth, tone and refine skin's texture; extract of yuzu, an Asian fruit rich in vitamin C and fruit acids and pure orange water to revitalize and refresh the skin. These purifying, revitalizing and exfoliatlng products gently act on combination to oily skin to boost radiance and vitality, according to company executives.

The Mass Market Leaders

While prestige skin care products have always incorporated cutting-edge ingredients, many skin care products available in the mass market use highly effective materials as well.

"The lines between mass and prestige are blurring as customers who typically buy prestige are purchasing more mass products than ever before," opined Anitra Marsh, Oil of Olay spokesperson. "Many mass products today, such as the Oil of Olay Total Effects product line, offer the same benefits as prestige brands, yet at a lower cost. In addition, buying at mass is more convenient and in-line with women's busy lives."

Oil of Olay, one of the leading facial moisturizers and cleansers according to IRI, has developed an anti-aging product line for the whole body. "One of today's hottest trends in skin care is anti-aging for the whole body. Women are beginning to acknowledge the fact that the face is not the only area of the body that shows visible signs of aging. The skin on the body, hands, nails, and even cuticles suffer from the effects of aging as well," revealed Ms. Marsh.

According to Ms. Marsh, consumers "are looking for holistic products that combat more than just fine lines and wrinlies. Women want serious anti-aging skin care products that firm skin, even overall texture, improve skin's dullness and minimize the appearance of blotches and age spots, as well as fine lines and wrinkles."

The Olay Total Effects line includes three new products formulated with the VitaNiacin Complex, which contain three key ingredients: vitamin B3 (niacinamide), pro-vitamin B5 (panthenol) and vitamin E. The complex is designed to fight signs of aging from the neck down. Total Effects Body Visible Anti-Aging moisturizing treatment, Total Effects Hand Visible Anti-Aging moisturizing treatment with UV protection (SPF 15) and Total Effects Cuticle & Nail moisture treatment are each designed to fight seven signs of aging and provide the same anti-aging care women give the face, to deliver healthier, younger-looking skin on the body, hands, nails and cuticles, according to Oil of Olay executives. Each of these products retails for $9.49 and will be available nationwide in August at mass and online retailers, drug stores and supermarkets.

Pond's Institute, the No. 3 mass market vendor of facial cleansers with sales of nearly $69 million, according to IRI, has introduced an innovative cleansing product, Pond's Age Defying cleansing towelettes ($6.99 for a 30 ct. vanity case and $5.99 for 30 ct. refills). These pre-moistened towelettes offer women complete cleansing and the proven anti-aging treatment benefits of a gentle 4% AHA solution in one convenient, multi-purpose step, according to company executives. The towelettes have a dual action cleansing system that works with the help of two special fibers and an anti-aging solution. The first fiber removes surface oil and dirt and the Second hydro-glycolic fiber holds, then releases a blend of alpha-hydroxy acids, vitamins and natural botanical ingredients.

"The popularity of cleansing towelettes is a tribute to the appeal of this effective, convenient and disposable method of cleansing," noted Joanne Hook, brand director, Pond's, "The introduction of Pond's Age Defying cleansing towelette is sure to grow and add dimension to the booming cleansing towelette category."

Never Too Soon

Noode, a new unisex skin care line that targets 15-29-year-olds, was recently launched. Noode, pronounced "new day," is one of the first companies to scientifically design a complete line of skin care products for young consumers. The line was developed by a team of dermatologists as a solution for young skin rather than as an age-defying line. The products are all-natural and based on a system of nutrients and proteins with the key ingredient being kava kava, known for its soothing and calming properties.

"Offering serious skin care for young people has not been a top priority until very recently, and Noode plans to lead the way," said Seth Ratner, vice president, sales and marketing. "Noode will specialize only in skin care as a sign of its commitment to marketing treatment-based skin care products. This category is secondary to color for many hip high-end cosmetic brands looking to target 15-29-year-olds."

Noode, New York, NY, provides a fun yet effective skin care line to the "generation me" demographic. The 11 SKU line includes Clean Me face wash, Scrub Me Gently facial scrub and Help Me zit zapper. The products will be available at Henri Bendel and select Bloomingdales locations.

According to Mr. Ratner, typical price points for quality skin care products are out of reach for most 15-29-year-olds at the department store level, forcing them into the mass market. Noode is trying to keep the customer in the prestige market by offering quality skin care products that retail from $15-20. "We believe that the price and quality will redirect the prestige market as well," said Mr. Rather.

For the young woman interested in skin care and sun protection, but with limited time for an elaborate beauty routine, Chelsea Girl Beauty, Delray Beach, FL, has created a unique cleanser that not only washes the skin, but protects it from the sun as well. Wash Away the Sun SPF 15 cleanser ($14.50 for 6-oz.) combines a broad-spectrum sunscreen with an oil-flee and PABA-free foaming cleanser. Using advanced ingredients, Chelsea Girl has created a cleanser that attaches to the protein layers of the skin, forming a protective sunscreen. Other products in the line include SPF 30 daily moisturizer ($16.00 for 1.7-oz.), Wash Away the Sun body wash SPF 15 ($12 for 8-oz.) and Smooth as Silk body lotion ($14.50 for 6-oz.).

Gimme an "A"

Because of their purported ability to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, products containing retinol and other vitamin A derivatives remain popular, as do products designed specifically to treat mature skin.

L'Oreal's Plenitude line presents an age-targeted, age-defying regimen for every woman to improve the look and feel of her skin. The philosophy of Plenitude is to fulfill the skin care needs of every woman beginning in her 20s and continuing on.

L'Oreal Plentitude has introduced Revitalift Complete, an anti-wrinkle and firming treatment to fight signs of aging, leaving skin toned and hydrated while protecting it from future damage. This multi-action product combines SPF 18 with pro-retinol A and par-elastyl. The formulation report edly decreases wrinkles, increases firmness, hydrates and provides the highest indicated SPF level in its category. Revitalift Complete was created for women in the 40-59 age range who take a proactive and preventative stance against the appearance of skin aging.

Mary Kay has released a simple and convenient skin care system--TimeWise--which delivers results in a two-product system. TimeWise cleanser and moisturizer feature a patent-pending blend of ingredients, the TimeWise Complex. It provides anti-aging benefits by working in conjunction with the skin's natural repair process to help reduce the visible signs of aging. TimeWise products contain a unique combination of ingredients including the TimeWise Complex, the "Dream Humectant" and carnuba beads. TimeWise 3 in 1 cleanser ($18 for 4.5-oz.) contains vitamin A and E derivatives, comfrey, yarrow, meadowsweet, hops and coneflower extracts. TimeWise Age Fighting Moisturizer ($20 for 3.3-oz.) contains lemon and cucumber extracts to help even out skin tone and calm skin.

Avon has introduced a host of new products for women concerned with looking younger. Anew Line Eliminator Dual Retinol facial treatment provides a dual delivery of retinol, with a combination of vitamins and extracts. Avon recommends the treatment be applied to the face nightly after cleansing. The company has also released three new products in the Pore-Fection line. These three products are to be used in conjunction with each other. Pore-Fection cleanser is a deep-cleaning foaming facial cleanser that washes away dirt and reduces the appearance of pores. Pore-Fection mask features exfoliating beads of pumice and microabsorbers which gently cleanse the skin and unclog dirt and oil. Makeup, pollutants and excess sebum are drawn away from the skin for a prolonged matte effect.

New Trends

With the popularity of aromatherapy in the cosmetic and personal care industries, companies are continuing to look toward alternative therapies for inspiration for new products. Rachel Perry, Inc., Glendale, CA, has released Rachel's Radiant Light Color Therapy, the first skin care-based color therapy system. This new holistic system claims to balance the energy centers of the body--chakras--by using the ancient art and practice of color therapy. This unique system contains seven colored spray mists, each with a matching colored light bulb. Each colored kit is specifically designed to replenish imbalances in a particular area of the body. For example, if the desired benefit is more energy, the red kit is used. Each spray mist is combined with a special herbal/plant complex that helps to restore moisture and nutrients to skin, while a pleasant scent adds the benefit of aromatherapy.

The use of organic ingredients has become quite popular as more people become aware of what they put in and on their bodies. Consumer demand for organic produce in the supermarket has crossed over to the skin care market. A newly launched skin care and bath products company, ubh (You Be Healthy), has developed a line of 100% organic, "chemical-free," aromatherapeutic products. These products meet the proposed USDA regulations regarding the labeling of products as "organic." The products are also preservative-free and do not use animal testing or genetically altered ingredients.

"Consumers are interested in the ingredients of the substances they apply to their skin, because what goes on the body also goes in the body. It's beneficial to try to reduce the number of chemicals and pollutants in our daily lives, and we can begin to do that by using chemical-free skin care products that also enable us to have a pleasurable bath and body experience," stated Michael Blake, founder of ubh.

The company uses a variety of extracts known for their healthful properties, including jojoba and macadamia oils, which moisturize the skin; carrot oil, which contains vitamin A; avocado oil, which contains vitamins A, D and E and other nutrients; lavender, which has a calming effect and grapefruit, which has an energizing aroma.

Doctors and Professionals

When dealing with something as important as skin, many people rely on experts in the field. Dermatologists and other skin care professionals have launched their own lines of skin care products. Murad, Inc., El Segundo, CA, is a leading dermatologist-backed skin care brand. The company has released Environmental Shield Age Proof Eye Creme SPF 15, a new treatment for the delicate tissue surrounding the eye. The new formula features full spectrum SPF 15 sun protection and a patented complex of anti-aging ingredients that beautify the fragile skin under the eye in four synergistic ways--reducing congestion, calming irritation, repairing damage and protecting the sensitive eye area.

Murad's unique Age Repair System, with a patented formula, features vitamins C and E plus amino acids and zinc, all key to collagen synthesis, skin repair and hydration. The decongesting action of caffeine, algisium C and tiger's herb dramatically reduces puffiness, minimizes undereye bags and restores skin firmness. When combined with the anti-inflammatory benefits of vitamin K and black cohosh, swollen, irritated eyes are re-energized and refreshed.

M.D. Formulations, San Diego, CA, has launched its Professional Treatment collection as a complement to the M.D. Formulations consumer product line. Each of the 16 products available in the Professional Treatment collection will support the retail sales of M.D. Formulations' home care products. M.D. Formulations hopes to fill a niche that has been neglected. According to the company, in the past, spas sold the latest beauty and skin care products, but were not necessarily using these products on their clients during treatment. Now customers will be able to have an incredible treatment in the spa and purchase complementary products that offer the same level of quality for at-home use, according to company executives.

Prescription Plus Skincare, Santa Clarita, CA, a professional line of skin care products, has released a new line of products, Professional Beauty Products, for both professionals and consumers. Professional Beauty commissioned top research and skin care developers in the country to create the most advanced anti-aging products for all skin types, according to company executives. The result is the Age Defying System which includes the C10 Advanced Skin Refinisher, Vitamin K Skin Kreme, and Vitamin K Eye Kreme.

Renova (trentinoin cream), a product of Ortho Dermatological, Skillman, NJ, is a prescription cream proven to reduce certain clinical signs of photodamage associated with chronic sun exposure and the natural aging process, when used as part of a total skin care and sun protection program, according to the company. It is available in two formulations. Renova 0.02% cream is proven to reduce fine facial wrinkles. Renova 0.05% cream is also proven to fade sunspots and smooth surface roughness.

Back to Nature

Vitamins and other natural ingredients continue to be an important ingredient in skin care products. Vitamins E and C, known for their antioxidant properties, have been added to many skin care products in recent years, while newer nutrients such as beta-carotene, olive oil and carotenoids are emerging as popular ingredients.

Priorities Skin Care, Richmond, VA, has introduced a new regimen of skin care products. Prerequisites, a beauty and wellness supplement for skin, hair and nails, contains botanical extracts such as cucumber, carrot and lavender, combined with vitamins A and E, to moisturize the skin and protect it against environmental pollutants. Designed to be used twice a day, Prerequisites increases hair luster, nail strength and skin texture through a complex formula of natural plant botanicals and antioxidants. And when consumers use it with RenewiNg & Restoring complex (R&R), skin becomes firmer and more hydrated, according to company executives.

Cellex-C International, Toronto, has introduced Betaplex, a new collection of beauty products infused with both alpha and beta hydroxy acids. Betaplex is a comprehensive skin care line that offers cleansing, toning and moisturizing products that meet the needs of all skin types. Betaplex utilizes a combination of alpha and beta hydroxy acids and other natural ingredients to dissolve and remove dirt, oils, makeup and impurities from the skin. The Betaplex line is comprised of Gentle cleansing milk ($35), Gentle foaming cleanser ($35), Line Smoother ($66), Smooth Skin complex ($64), New Complexion cream ($64), Facial Firming water ($47) and Fresh Complexion mist ($35).

Nikali's Liquid Sugar ($24 for 6-oz.) contains a blend of sugar, natural oils and aloe vera, as well as vitamin E. The product is used to exfoliate the skin. Burt's Bees Carrot Nutritive collection consists of natural, beta caroteneenriched skin care products that can help heal sun-damaged skin. The products contain carrot seed oil and beta carotene, natural antioxidants that possess unique healing properties to repair sun-exposed skin by fueling skin cell regeneration, reducing the appearance of dark spots, blotchiness and wrinkles and restoring a healthy glow to skin, according to company executives.

EmerginC, New York, NY, has released a new skin care product, EmerginC Earth ($65 for 1.8-oz.), a moisturizing cream comprised of copper, iron, magnesium and manganese peptides (derived from plants such as ivy, ladies' mantle and horsetail) which are helpful in producing collagen and elastin fibers that keep skin firm and youthful. Copper is a powerful antioxidant that is quickly becoming a key anti-aging ingredient to improve skin texture and clarity while reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

Several Nu Skin products reportedly reveal the Mediterranean secret of beautiful skin--olive oil enriched with polyphenol hydroxytyrosol. Celltrex Ultra Recovery fluid ($33 for 0.5-oz.) can enhance the skin's beauty and Moisture Restore Day Protective lotion ($30 for 1.7-oz.) hydrates, protects and promotes vibrant, healthy-looking skin, according to company executives. It features a unique colorless carotenoid, a powerful antioxidant from the waters of Israel.

Awake Cosmetics of Japan has released five new products that contain vitamins, clay and other natural ingredients. Vital Express (four 0.56-oz. vials, $65) is a powder-to-emulsion vitamin C treatment that contains comfrey and dog rose extracts to improve elasticity and firmness. Awake's Body Hydrator (7.4-oz. for $25) is a liquid lotion that contains fruit acids to help exfoliate skin and remove unwanted dead skin cells, while comfrey imparts anti-inflammatory and soothing properties. Deep Purity smoothing wash ($40) is a foaming exfoliating mask that contains citric fruit extracts to soften skin and remove excess oil. Deep Purity smoothing gel ($36, 60ml/2-oz.) contains clay, honeysuckle and hops to help regulate oil secretion and tighten pores. Deep Purity clay wash ($30) contains natural sea substances and minerals to help absorb excess oil, remove impurities and minimize the appearance of pores.

In this fast-paced age, women expect a lot from their skin care products. Not only do they expect fast results, but they also want a product with multiple actions. With so many new skin care products being launched, women can tailor a skin care treatment system to suit their individual needs. From age-defying products that care for a specific age range to vitamin and nutrient-infused products to treat a specific skin problem, there is a product for everyone. It seems as long as skin care manufactures continue to meet the growing needs of their consumers, the skin care industry will continue to thrive.

Skin Care


Here is a list of new skin care ingredients introduced by suppliers in the past 12 months. For more information about the products listed here, contact the supplier directly at the numbers provided.

* Arista Industries, Inc.
Wilton, CT
Tel: (203) 761-1009 ext. 316
Fax: (203) 761-4980

Hemp Seed Oil

INCI name: cannabis sativa seed oil

Suggested use level: Usage levels are based on the desired amount of essential fatty acids required in the finished formula or the hydrophilic property (blends well with water) required.

Applications: moisturizing creams and lotions, shampoos, conditioners, body wash gels, acne products and shaving creams

Comments: Hemp oil absorbs readily into the skin leaving a non-greasy emollience. Over 75% of the fatty acids in hemp oil are polyunsaturated fatty acids (PUFAs) which offer excellent emoillient and lubricating properties. Hemp oil is eco-friendly and biodegradable. Suitable for use for people with sensitive skin.

* Carrubba Inc.
Milford, CT
Tel: (203) 878-0605
Fax: (203) 877-0361

Ginkgo Biloba Extract

INCI name: ginkgo biloba extract

Suggested use level: 0.5-1.0%

Applications: skin care creams and lotions, skin care post-sun tanning lotions, body washes, sun care

Comments: Potent antioxidant, anti-inflammatory; topical application improves microcirculation, protects against sun damage.

Grape Seed Extract

INCI name: vitis vinefera (grape) seed extract

Suggested use level: 0.5-1%

Applications: sun care, skin care creams and lotions, post-tanning lotions, hair and body washes

Comments: Powerful antioxidant, anti-wrinkling, protects against sun damage.

Milk Thistle Extract

INCI name: silybum marianum extract

Suggested use level: 0.5-1%

Applications: sun care, skin care creams and lotions, post-tanning lotions, hair and body washes

Comments: Powerful antioxidant; provides protection against UVB induced photodamage when applied topically.

* Centerchem, Inc.
Norwalk, CT
Tel: (203) 822-9800
Fax: (203) 822-9820


INCI name: antarctic glycoprotein

Suggested use level: 3-5%

Applications: skin care, moisturizing products

Comments: This glycoprotein shows a great spreadability on the horny layer of the epidermis that prevents dryness and reduces roughness of the skin and protects the epidermis from extreme cool conditions. It maintains integrity of the skin under freezing conditions showing high cryoprotective properties. Antarcticine provides cohesion of the prickle and basal layer of the epidermis assessed through compression isothermes studies. The product is an ideal active ingredient for moisturizing skin care products.


INCI name: hydrolyzed vegetable protein

Suggested use level: 5-10%

Applications: skin care and moisturizing products

Comments: Vegetal derived oligopeptide produced by specific enzymatic hydrolysis using cutting-edge technology that permits breaking of the peptide sequence at special positions. It exhibits a B-turn secondary structure that helps to stabilize native collagen type I, II, III and IV fibers as has been demonstrated by circular dichroism studies. The stabilization of the native confirmation, even the possibility to prevent certain extent of denaturation of collagen fibers is the key point to avoid premature aging of the skin. Lipeptide forms monolayers, shows a significant moisturizing profile and penetrates the stratum corneum.

Stimu-Tex AS

INCI name: spent grain wax, butyrosperum parkii (shea butter) extract, argania spinosa kernel oil

Suggested use level: 3-5%

Applications: sensitive skin care and moisturizing products

Comments: Stimu-Tex AS is the next generation of Stimu-Tex. The added combination of two natural oils (shea butter and argania oil) improves the cosmetic efficiency of Stimu-Tex AS. It has an excellent anti-itching and replenishing effect on the skin and is the ideal active ingredient for the treatment of very dry, irritated skin.

* Charkit Chemical Corp.
Darien, CT
Tel: (203) 299-3258
Fax: (203) 655-8643

Meadowfoam Seed Oil

INCI name: meadowfoam (limnanthes alba) seed oil

Suggested use level: 10%

Applications: lipsticks, shampoo, conditioner, hand lotion, skin cream, bath products, styling aids, ethnic products

Refined Hempseed Oil

INCI name: cannabis sativa seed oil

Suggested use level: 5-10%

Applications: dry skin, anti-aging, skin cleansers and soaps, hair care, sun care, acne, shaving products, color cosmetics, pharmaceutical products

* Croda Inc.
Parsippany, NJ
Tel: (973) 644-4900
Fax: (973) 644-9222

Crodarom Avocadin HS80

INCI name: persea gratissima (avocado) sterols

Suggested use level: 2-10%

Applications: sunscreens, after-sun preparations, sensitive skin or treatment-type products, day creams, OTC ointments/ inflammatory aids

Comments: High sterol, low oil, pastillated lipid extract consisting of an 80% active component of avocado sterols; shown to lessen skin's inflammatory response to UVB radiation and decrease irritation; ameliorating effects on skin may help prevent premature sun-induced aging.

Crodarom Ginger Special

INCI name: butylene glycol (and) zingiber officinale (ginger) root extract

Suggested use level: 0.5-2%

Applications: heat treatment massage creams, cellulite therapy, skin toners, deepheating rubs

Comments: Highly concentrated Chinese botanical containing plant actives with vasodilatory activity; proven in vive to have circulatory action that creates a warming sensation on skin, evaporating with cooling effect. Formulate at low temperature.

* CuDerm Corporation
Dallas, TX
Tel: (972) 248-8095
Fax: (972) 248-1094

Sebutape and D-Squame Skin Indicators

Description: sebutape (oilness tester) and D-squame (dryness tester) skin indicators

Suggested use level: Efficacy testing, product claims and marketing tools.

Applications: patented, proven testing tools for assessing skin's level of sebum output and to sample the superficial stratum corneum to determine dryness

Comments: Customizable products for marketing and promotion of skin care lines. Evaluate skin type in seconds for selecting appropriate products.

* Dow Corning Corporation
Midland, MI
Tel: (989) 496-6000
Fax: (989) 496-4586

* Dow Corning HMW 2220 Nonionic Emulsion

INCI name: divinyldimethicone/dimethicone copolymer (and) [C.sub.12]-[C.sub.13] pareth-3 (and) [C.sub.12-13] pareth-23

Suggested use level: 2-5% silicone active

Applications: skin care and body wash applications, including skin creams, facial cleansers and shower gels

Comments: This ingredient was designed as a unique way of incorporating an ultra high molecular weight silicone polymer into water-based systems. Imparts a rich, nourishing feel to skin care formulations; also provides wash-off resistance and film barrier properties. In body wash products, provides superior foam profile and skin feel.

* Draco Natural Products
San Jose, CA
Tel: (408) 287-7871
Fax: (408) 287-8838


INCI name: adenophora stricta

Suggested use level: 5-10%

Applications: moisturizes dry skin

Comments: Spray dried, fine powdered botanical extract of adenophora stricta (glehnia root) which is extracted in a low-temperature processing.

Eczema D-43

INCI name: angelic sinensis (and) cnidium monnieri (and) coptis chinesis (and) dictamnus dasycarpus (and) evodia rutaecarpa (and) phellodendron chinensis (and) scutellaria haicalensis (and) sophora fiavescens

Suggested use level: 5-10%

Applications: topical creams

Comments: This formula utilizes Chinese herbs in a full spectrum, low temperature, water extracted process designed to improve the symptoms of eczema by reducing inflammation, infection and modifying immunological parameters. Some of the herbs have been shown to have antihistamine properties to help reduce redness and itching. All the herbs are extracted together, resulting in a homogeneous extract.


INCI name: sophora fiavescens

Suggested use level: 5-10%

Applications: for itchy, dry skin and inflammation

Comments: Spray dried, fine powdered botanical extract of sophora flavescens (sophora root) which is extracted in a low-temperature processing.

* Gattefosse Corporation
Westwood, NJ
Tel: (201) 358-1700
Fax: (201) 664-5612

Gatuline Age Defense

INCI name: water (and) juglans regia (walnut) seed

Suggested use level: 2-6%

Applications: anti-aging and anti-wrinkle skin care lines, environmental stress protective products, mature skin care lines, face and body firming products, sun care products

Comments: Proactive material that helps cutaneous cells organize their own defense against all signs of aging with substantiated effect on extrinsic (photoaging) and intrinsic (chronological) aging.

* Greentech S.A.
Saint Beauzire, France
Tel: (33) 4 73 33 99 00
Fax: (33) 4 73 33 99 32


Comments: Medulats are a family of plant extracts obtained by cryoextraction of the fresh plants. They present a biological potential which is higher than the extract obtained from a dried plant. Freeze extraction processing protects whole fresh plant compounds, even the most fragile such as enzymes, vitamins or polyphenols. Medulats of burdock, chamomile, cucumber, fucus, hamamelis, olive, small holly, horsetail, meadowsweet and red grapevine have been developed.


INCI name: water (and) glycerin (and) ethanol (and) lecithin (and) terminalia chebula extract (and) epilobium angustifolium extract (and) microalgae zinc extract (and) jaguar C14S (and) tocopheryl avetate (and) uvinul MS-40 (and) phenoxyethanol Suggested use level: 1-3%

Applications: anti-acneic treatment

Comments: Seborilys has anti-acneic properties which are associated with astringent properties linked to tannins coming from terminalia; anti-androgenic activity which is associated with an inhibition of 5 alpha reductase by compounds containing epilobium and anti-acneic effect associated with bioavailable zinc coming from microalgae culture.


INCI name: calophylum inophylum seed oil Suggested use level: 0.5-1%

Applications: dermic regenerating

Comments: Tamanol improves the collagen synthesis and stimulates the contractil power of fibroblasts by 50%. In this condition, it is an excellent and regenerating active for eliminating wrinkles. It is also well adapted for limiting stretch marks.

* Goldschmidt AG
Essen, Germany
Hopewell, VA
Tel: 49 (201) 173 2854
Fax: 49 (201) 173 1828
Tel: (804) 541-8658
Fax: (804) 541-2783

Abil Care 85

INCI name: bis-PEG/PPG-16/16 PEG/ PPG16/16 dimethicone; caprylic/capric triglceride

Suggested use level: 1.5-3.0%

Applications: skin care sprays, creams or lotions, sun care products and after sun sprays or lotions

Comments: Emulsifier for o/w sprays, lotions or creams with a velvety-silky feel. Provides a long-lasting skin smoothing perception. Hot and cold processing is possible.

Cosmocair C100

INCI name: hydrocreatine (pending)

Suggested use level: 0.5%

Applications: facial or body care, after sun products, formulations for sensitive or mature skin

Comments: Skin soothing and moisturizing active ingredient. Natural amino acid that occurs in the human body and plays an important role in cellular energy metabolism. Manufactured by a patented process.

Tego Care CG 90

INCI name: cetearyl glucoside

Suggested use level: 1-1.5%

Applications: facial and body care, baby care, sunscreens

Comments: Sugar-based, very efficient emulsifier for PEG-free o/w sprays, lotions or creams. The product imparts excellent spreadability and temperature stability to emulsions.

* Hydromer Inc.
Branchburg, NJ
Tel: (908) 526-2828
Fax: (908) 526-3633

Aqualrix II Hydrogel

INCI name: PVP/chitosan

Suggested use level: 6-10%

Applications: moisturizing cream

Aquamere H-1212

INCI name: PVP/polycarbamyl/polyglycol ester

Suggested use level: 10-15%

Applications: moisturizing cream

Aquamere S-2011

INCI name: PVP/dimethiconylacrylate/ polycarbamyl/polyglycol ester

Suggested use level: 10-15%

Applications: sunscreen lotions and creams

* Induchem Ltd.
Volketswil, Switzerland
Tel: (41) 1 908 43 33
Fax: (41) 1 908 43 30

Unisteron Y-50

INCI name: oleyl alcohol dioscorea villosa (wild yam) root extract (and) glycin soja (soybean) sterols

Suggested use level: 5%

Applications: multi-functional phytosteroid complex for mature skin during and after menopause

Comments: Unisteron Y-50 has lipid-regulating properties, proven wrinkle-smoothing effects and improves skin elasticity. It is oil-soluble and extremely skin-friendly.

* Indena Spa
Milan, Italy
Tel: (39) 02 57 4961
Fax: (33) 02 57 404620

Zanthalene 20% Solution

Suggested use level: 0.5%

Applications: immediate modulator of skin sensitivity

Comments: A unique and advanced botanical extract that brings to all types of cosmetic products a significant sensorial ability to reduce skin discomfort such as itching, burning, dryness, etc.

Wayne, NJ
Tel: (877) 812-7501

Cos-Kelp SGA-5019

INCI name: sodium calcium alginate

Suggested use level: 0.5-2%

Applications: face masks, alpha hydroxy creams, shampoos, body washes

Comments: Natural products from sea kelp are biodegradable and act as rheology modifiers.

Prolipid 151

INCI name: glyceryl stearate (and) cetyl alcohol (and) stearyl alcohol (and) behenyl alcohol (and) palmitic acid (and) stearic acid (and) hydroxyethyl cetearamidopropldimonium chloride

Suggested use level: 2-6%

Applications: skin creams, lotions, sunscreen sprays, cleansing milks

Comments: Lamellar gel product structurant and moisturizer; provides a lubricious feel and helps promote heal-thy skin.

Si-Tec DM1 Plus

INCI name: dimethicone

Suggested use level: 1-70%

Applications: color cosmetics, creams and lotions

Comments: Patented mixture of various dimethicone polymers which mimics the evaporation rate of D4 cyclomethicone. DM1 Plus exhibits transient emolliency, detackification properties and serves as a carrier fluid.

* Kama International Corp.
Duluth, GA
Tel: (770) 641-7800
Fax: (678) 352-0027


Suggested use level: .05-1%

Applications: sunscreens, lipsticks Seaweed Extract Texturizer

Suggested use level: 2-5%

Applications: face and body moisturizers, after-sun products


Suggested use level: .05-1%

Applications: anti-aging, anti-wrinkle creams

* Kemin Personal Care
Des Moines, IA
Tel: (515) 248-4000
Fax: (515) 248-4051

Flora GLO Lutein

INCI name: xanthophyll

Suggested use level: 300-500 ppm

Applications: skin care, sun care

Comments: Flora Glo Lutein is a bioactive antioxidant that reduces oxidative stress in the skin due to aging, the sun, pollution and other environmental factors.

* Lipo Chemicals, Inc.
Paterson, NJ
Tel: (973) 345-8600
Fax: (973) 345-5975

Lipowax R2

INCI name: cetearyl alcohol (and) polysorbate 60 (and) oleth-10 (and) PEG-75 lanolin (and) PEG-150 stearate (and) steareth-20

Suggested use level: 5-15%

Applications: cleansers, lotions, creams

Optigel SH-CG

INCI name: sodium magnesium silicate Suggested use level: 0.5-10% Applications: face masks, lotions, creams, gels

Tixogel VSP-1438

INCI name: cyclomethicone (and) quaternium-90 bentonite

Suggested use level: 2-10%

Applications: moisturizing lotions and creams

* Lonza Group
Fair Lawn, NJ
Tel: (201) 794-2753
Fax: (201) 794-2515

Glycacil 2000 Preservative

INCI name: iodopropynyl butyl carbonate

Suggested use level: .03-1%

Applications: hair care, skin care, lotions, creams, baby products, sun products and personal care raw materials such as surfactants

Comments: Cosmetic and personal care focused, advanced technology in this patented water-soluble product provides significant benefits versus traditional solvent-based materials. Glycacil offers both improved color retention and stability.

Glydant 2000 Preservative

INCI name: DMDM hydantoin

Suggested use level: 0.05-0.4%

Applications: hair care, lotions, creams, baby products, powders, shaving products, sun products, eye/makeup and personal care raw materials such as surfactants

Comments: Glydant 2000 is non-freezing and contains the lowest free formaldehyde level achievable resulting in greater safety and reduced regulatory concerns.

* Midwest Grain Products, Inc.
Atchison, KS
Tel: (800) 255-0302/(913) 367-1480
Fax: (913) 367-1838

Cosmogel RS

INCI name: rice starch

Suggested use level: 2-7%

Applications: creams, lotions, face-cleansing products, cosmetic powders, mascara and shampoos

Comments: Cosmogel RS is a highly refined rice starch that provides tremendous functionality in a variety of applications.

Foam Pro-L

INCI name: hydrolyzed wheat protein

Suggested use level: 1-3%

Applications: soaps, facial masks, skin creams and lotions, wrinkle removers, shower gels, shampoos and conditioners

Comments: Foam Pro-L is an excellent foam booster and has thickening properties for detergent systems.

Skin Flow C

INCI name: calcium starch octenylsuccinate

Suggesteded use level: 1-5%

Applications: creams, lotions, ointments, sunscreens, foundations, powders, after-shave products, color cosmetics, antiperspirants and deodorants, lipsticks and balms

Comments: Skin Flow C, a fine particle sized modified wheat starch, improves the aesthetics of skin care products and removes greasiness of creams, ointments and lotions.

* Napp Technologies, Inc.
Saddle Brook, NJ
Tel: (201) 843-4664
Fax: (201) 843-4737


INCI name: 1, 3-dihydroxy-2-propane

Suggested use level: 3-8% solution or suspension, often in combination with 0.25% lawsone and 50% IPA

Applications: topical sunless tanning agent

* Natunola Health Inc.
Nepean, Ontario, Canada
Tel: (613) 727-7337
Fax: (613) 727-3772

Natunola CWAX 5611

INCI name: canola oil (and) glycine soja (soybean) oil (and) hydrogenated vegetable oil (and) zea mays (corn) starch (and) silica

Suggested use level: 5-30%

Applications: emollient creams, cold creams, conditioning creams, protective creams, baby creams, sunscreen lotions, bar soaps, lip balms and antiperspirant sticks

Comments: Natunola CWAX 5611 is a natural ingredient which provides a soft, smooth feeling to the skin. It is an excellent emollient and can be used as a skin conditioner, a releasing aid and a viscosity increasing agent for non-aqueous systems.

* Norman, Fox & Co.
Commerce, CA
Tel: (800) 632-1777
Fax: (323) 837-7474

Norfox DGCA

INCI name: PEG-2 cocamide

Suggested use level: 1-5%

Applications: designed for use as a foam stabilizer in liquid-based formulas for light duty application in the fields of dishwashing compounds, detergents, shampoos and other related applications

Comments: Easily soluble in water, alcohol and most non-aqeous surfactant systems.

* OSi Specialties, a Crompton business
Greenwich, CT
Tel: (203) 552-2256
Fax: (203) 552-2895

Silsoft 034

INCI name: caprylyl methicone

Suggested use level: 1-2%

Applications: creams, lotions, oil-based skin care, sunscreens

Comments: Shortened rub-in time, less tacky after-feel, increased dispersibility of inorganics in oils.

* Penreco
Houston, TX
Tel: (713) 236-6950
Fax: (713) 236-6990

Versagel MC

INCI name: isohexadecane (and) ethylene/propylene/styrene copolymer (and) butylene/ethylene/styrenecopolymer

Suggested use level: 5-50%

Applications: facial moisturizers, body lotions, suntan oil gels, massage oil gels

Comments: Versagel MC is stable and compatible with most chemical ingredients used in cosmetics and personal care products. The gel is non-po]ar and has better affinity with such materials as aliphatic hydrocarbons, fatty esters, low HLB non-ionic surfactants, cyclomethicone and other synthetic and natural emollients.

Versagel MP

INCI name: isopropyl palmitate (and) ethylene/propylene/styrene copolymer (and) butylene/ethylene/styrene copolymers

Suggested use level: 5-95%

Applications: body lotions, massage oil gels, after sun soothing lotions, shower moisturizers, lip-glosses

Comments: Possesses good clarity, excellent thermal and UV stability and a versatile chemical compatibility. Versagel MP is equipped with a long hydrocarbon chain to give skin occlusivity; however, it has carboxylic functionality near the end of the molecule to give a drier skin feel.

* Presperse Inc.
Piscataway, NJ
Tel: (732) 819-8009
Fax: (732) 819-7175


INCI name: algae (laminaria cloustoni) extract

Suggested use level: 0.25-0.5%

Applications: creams, lotions and cleansers for skin care and acne treatment

Comments: Reduces sebum flow and bacterial inflammation process.

Melafresh Exfol 100 & 300

INCI name: tea tree (melaleuca alternifolia) leaf

Suggested use level: 0.5-10%

Applications: facial scrubs, facial cleansers, masks, body and hand scrubs

Comments: Exfoliating effect to improve the appearance of the skin, mild antibacterial and mild anti-irritant activity.

Seve Marine

INCI name: water (and) algae extract (blidingia minima)

Suggested use level: 1-3%

Applications: skin care creams and lotions

Comments: Moisturizing action, improves dynamic and static hydration and rebuilds intercellular cement.

* RITA Corporation
Woodstock, IL
Tel: (815) 337-2500
Fax: (815) 337-2522

Ritafactant 122HFP

INCI name: sodium C14-C16 olefin sulfonate (and) ammonium lauryl sulfate (and) cocamidopropyl betaine (and) sodium caproyl lactylate (and) glycol stearate (and) stearamide AMP (and) PEG-150 distearate

Suggested use level: up to 50%

Applications: High foaming shampoos and body wash products

Comments: Ritafactant 122HFP is a cold mix system that produces an ultra high foam volume. It is a mild, stable and highly cost-effective surfactant package.

Ritafactant 122MS

INCI name: cocamidopropyl betaine (and) sodium caproyl lactylate

Suggested use level: up to 20%

Applications: baby products, products used around the eyes and mild shampoos and body wash applications

Comments: Ritafactant 122MS creates a wet spherical high volume foam with excellent stability, providing a mild, cost effective foaming surfactant package. An ideal amide-free and sulfate-free system.

Ritafactant 138AN INCI name: decyl glucoside (and) sodium lauroyl lactylate

Suggested use level: up to 30%

Applications: baby products, products used around the eyes and mild shampoos and body wash formulations

Comments: Ritafactant 138AN is an excellent all natural surfactant blend that is extremely mild and stable. It is an amide-free and sulfate-free system.

* Sabinsa Corporation
Piscataway, NJ
Tel: (732) 777-1111
Fax: (732) 777-1443


INCI name: tetrahydropiperine

Suggested use level: 0.01-0.1%

Applications: skin permeation enhancer for other active ingredients in formulations

Comments: Contains a minimum of 48% tetrahydropiperine.

Rosemary Extract CG

INCI name: rosmarinus officinalis

Suggested use level: 0.02-0.5%

Applications: antioxidant, antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory

Comments: Standardized to contain not less than 15% carnosic acid and 20% ursolic acid.

Ursolic Acid

INCI name: ursolic acid

Suggested use level: 0.2-1.5%

Applications: creams, lotions, gels, lip balms

Comments: Anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, antioxidant, skin texturizer. Standardized to contain a minimum of 90% ursolic acid.

* Scher Chemical, Inc.
Clifton, NJ
Tel: (973) 471-1300
Fax: (973) 471-3783

Hydramol PGPL

INCI name: PEG/PPG-8/3 laurate

Suggested use level: 1-10%

Applications: oil free lotion and makeup, clear treatment serums, facial cleansers, blooming bath oils

Comments: Water-soluble, vegetable oil-soluble emollient ester for use in clear skin products where light moisturization and elegant application is desired.

Hydramol TGL

INCI name: polyglyceryl-3 laurate

Suggested use level: 2-10%

Applications: eye creams, cleansing mousse, suntan lotions, moisturizers

Comments: Hydramol TGL is water dispersible. It is used in oil-free, non-greasy cleansers and moisturizers. It provides super moisturization and humectancy to skin and is particularly effective in nourishing dry and sensitive skin.

Schercemol 203

INCI name: octyldodecyl lactate

Suggested use level: 2-10%

Applications: skin lotions and night creams

Comments: An alpha hydroxy acid ester that aids in the process of skin renewal.

* Sederma Inc.
Parsippany, NJ
Tel: (973) 993-2973
Fax: (973) 644-9222


INCI name: natural herbal extract

Suggested use level: 3-5%

Applications: protective day creams, sun care, body care

Comments: Anti-stress agent; protects against daily aggressions (i.e., free radicals/oxidizer attack) and decreases cutaneous sensitivity; reduces irritation and inflammation; based on anti-stress herb of Ayurvedic healing system.

* Silab
Brive, France
Tel: (33) 555 84 58 40
Fax: (33) 555 84 95 64

Iris ISO

INCI name: iris florentin root extract (and) butylene glycol

Suggested use level: 3-5%

Applications: anti-aging products

Comments: Rich in isoflavones from Iris, Iris ISO, thanks to its estrogen-like activity, helps to fight against wrinkle formation, dryness and skin slackening.


INCI name: butylene glycol (and) spiroea ulmatia extract

Suggested use level: 2-5%

Applications: anti-seborrheic agent for oily skin

Comments: Rich in gallotanins and ellagitanins extracted from meadowsweet, Sebonornine reduces sebum secretions by inhibiting 5-alpha-reductase activity, limits sebaceous excretions due to an astringent effect and prevents bacterial proliferation.

* Stepan Company
Northfield, IL
Tel: (800) 745-7837 (technical assistance)
(800) 457-7673 (order placement)
Fax: (708) 501-2100

Amphosol 1C

INCI name: sodium cocoamphoacetate

Applications: hand soaps, facial washes, shower gels, liquid soap, bubble baths, body washes, baby products, shampoos

Comments: Amphosol 1C, an amphoteric sufactant, is very mild, almost non-stinging to the eyes and reduces the irritation index of finished formulations. It is useful as a secondary sufactant to help boost foam and build viscosity. It builds viscosity with lower levels of chloride and provides for cold processing of finished fromulations. Amphosol 1C is substantive to human skin and hair, imparting a conditioning and softening effect.

Stepan-Mild RM1

INCI name: sodium stearyl phthalamate

Applications: therapeutic moisturizing creams and lotions, sprayable lotions and sunscreens

Comments: Stepan-Mild RM1 is a vegetable-derived, anionic, non-conventional rheology modifier/emulsion stabilizer that is exceptionally mild. In combination with glyceryl stearate and polymeric emulsifier it forms a lamellar gel network structure that is very shear thinning, producing quick-spreading, elegant-feeling o/w emulsions even with high levels of moistuirizers. Its shear thinning properties also allow sprayable lotions. Stepan-Mild RM1 technology serves as an excellent delivery vehicle for sunscreens, producing a continuous film on the skin with uniform delivery of actives, resulting in SPF enhancement and reduced whitening effects with inorganic sunscreens.

Stepanquat ML

INCI name: quaternium-82

Applications: anti-aging products, sunscreen products, lightening products

Comments: Stepanquat ML is a unique emulsifying agent; it can produce both o/w and w/o emulsions (in combination with co-emulsifiers) with cold mixing procedures. It has the ability to emulsify small amount of oils (15-20%) and provide elegant aesthetic properties in light w/o emulsions. It is also suitable for producing flowable and sprayable w/o emulsions with silky, velvety skin feel. Stepanquat ML is very mild at the recommended use level (~2%). It is also an excellent conditioning agent with wide applications for both hair and skin conditioning products.

* TIC Gums, Inc.
Belcamp, MD
Tel: (410) 273-7300
Fax: (410) 273-6469

TIC Pretested Pre-Hydrated Ticaxan Xanthan Gum

INCI name: xanthomonas campestis (xanthan) gum

Suggested use level: 0.05-0.35%

Applications: body wash, shampoo, gels

Comments: Easy dispersion and reduced dusting are added benefits of this all natural thickener.

* Tri-K Industries, Inc.
Northvale, NJ
Tel: (201) 750-1055
Fax: (201) 750-9785


INCI name: cetearyl wheat bran glycosides (and) cetearyl alcohol

Suggested use level: 3-5%

Applications: body and skin care products, hair care products, sun products

Comments: Emuliance is a wheat bran derived self-emulsifying base ideal for the development of new eco-friendly products. The obtained emulsions offer outstanding qualities regarding smoothness, touch and emolliency.

Olivoil Glutinate

INCI name: hydrolyzed wheat protein olivate

Suggested use level: 2-20%

Applications: facial cleansers, body wash, shower gels and shampoos

Comments: Olivoil Glutinate is a new, mild, natural surfactant which combines the fatty acid profile of olive oil with hydrolyzed wheat proteins to give an efficient, time-durable foaming product. An ideal choice for use as a primary or secondary surfactant system.


INCI name: cetearyl wheat straw glycosides (and) cetearyl alcohol

Suggested use level: 2-5%

Applications: body and skin care products, sun products, personal hygiene products, hair care products

Comments: Xyliance is a wheat strawderived emulsifying base ideal for products with a natural positioning. With Xyliance it is possible to achieve amazingly white emulsions, presenting a very high finesse.

* U.S. Cosmetics Corporation
Dayville, CT
Tel: (860) 779-3990
Fax: (860) 779-3994


INCI name: yogurt extract

Suggested use level: 1-5%

Applications: treatment creams and lotions, sun care products

Comments: Counters the effects of UV radiation on immuno-suppression of the skin.


INCI name: linoleic acid

Suggested use level: 1-5%

Applications: creams, lotions, ointments

Comments: High purity, colorless and odorless, vegetable-derived.product.

S-Face IS-1001

INCI name: polyglyceryl-10-isostearate

Suggested use level: 1-3%

Applications: milky lotions, cleansing creams and gels

Comments: Emulsifier (HLB 13.7) useful for microemulsions and high oil level formulas.

* Wacker Biochem Corp.
Adrian, MI
Tel: (517) 264-8792
Fax: (517) 264-8795

Menthol W8

INCI name: cyclodextrine/menthol

Suggested use level: 1-10%

Applications: cooling agent

Comments: Menthol is an efficient cooling agent, with a distinctive odor. Menthol W8 is more water soluble than menthol and provides a long lasting cooling effect.

RetinolL W8

INCI name: cyclodextrin/retinol

Suggested use level: 1-2%

Applications: skin care

Comments: Retinol is involved in the creation and maintenance of healthy skin. Topical use reduces fine lines and wrinkles. Cyclodextrin provides a unique molecular stabilization of retinol.

Tea Tree Oil W7

INCI name: cyclodextrin/tea tree oil (melaleuca alternifolia)

Suggested use level: 1-5%

Applications: skin care

Comments: Tea tree oil is a well-known efficient natural antibacterial agent. Tea Tree Oil W7 provides a unique molecular stabilization controlled release and reduction of odor.
COPYRIGHT 2001 Rodman Publications, Inc.
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Copyright 2001 Gale, Cengage Learning. All rights reserved.

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Author:Pianoforte, Kerry
Publication:Household & Personal Products Industry
Date:May 1, 2001
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