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Team neoprene.

Add a designer piece to your wardrobe with a neoprene jacket with contrasting quilting and collar. Plus, discover how to work with and source neoprene.

NIFTY NEOPRENE

Neoprene is definitely on the scene in designer and ready-to-wear fashion. It's a synthetic rubber material that's typically used for scuba and surfing garments. It's resilient and a great insulator, making it perfect for a jacket. Read on to find it and learn essential sewing tips.

* Neoprene is sold by the yard or by the sheet.

* The recent popularity of neoprene has created a demand in the home-sewing community, prompting some traditional fabric stores to carry it. If you don't find it in store, ask to order it.

* Online stores carry neoprene in a wider variety of colors and finishes, usually sold by the sheet.

* Always use a rotary cutting system with a new blade. Apply even pressure for a smooth, accurate cutting line. Use a transparent ruler to help stabilize the fabric and create straight edges, which is especially important when leaving the edges raw.

* Select a size 100/16 denim needle to ensure the needle is thick enough to stitch through multiple neoprene layers.

* Use polyester thread, which allows for some stretch in the seam.

* Increase the stitch length to 3mm. If needed, loosen the needle tension to prevent thread tangles.

* Install a roller foot or walking foot, and stitch slowly to help the fabric easily feed through the machine.

* Use binder clips to secure layers and prevent permanent holes created by pins. If needed, pin only within the seam allowance.

* Always test-stitch on a fabric scrap to ensure the presser foot, thread, needle, stitch length and tension are correct.

SUPPLIES

* 1 1/2 yards of at least 52"-wide or one sheet of 3mm neoprene (See "Source.")

* 1 1/4 yards each of 2x1 rib knit & 1/2"-wide single-fold bias tape

* Two 30mm-diameter sew-on snaps

* Contrasting & matching polyester thread

* Needles: hand sewing & size 100/16 denim

* Rulers: right-angle triangle & straight transparent

* Tailor's chalk or removable fabric pencil

* Rotary cutting system

* Binder clips

* Lighter

CUT

Download the Team Neoprene pattern from sewnews.com/web_extras for free until Jan. 31, 2017. Purchase the pattern at shopsewitall.com after the expiration date.

From the neoprene, cut one left-front panel, one right-front panel, one back and two sleeves using a rotary cutting system.

Cut one collar from the rib knit fabric.

QUILT

Position the right-front panel right side up on a flat work surface. Place a right-angle triangle ruler over the panel with the right-angle corner and straight edge along the center front and the upper corner at the panel upper-right corner. Using tailor's chalk or a removable fabric pencil, mark the diagonal line, extending it to the opposite panel edge (1).

Draw a second line 1 1/2" from and parallel to the first line. Repeat to mark the entire right-front panel.

Place the right-angle triangle ruler over the panel with the right-angle corner along the lower edge and the lower corner at the panel lower-right corner. Using tailor's chalk or a removable fabric pencil, mark the diagonal line, extending it to the opposite panel edge (2).

Draw a second line 1 1/2" from and parallel to the first line. Repeat to mark the entire right-front panel.

Position the right-front panel next to the left-front panel, aligning the center fronts, necklines and lower edges. Extend the marks from the right-front panel to the left-front panel to create a continuous quilting pattern.

Repeat to align each sleeve and the jacket back to the front pieces to continue the quilting pattern (3).

Install a denim needle and thread the needle with contrasting polyester thread. Select a 5mm stitch length. Topstitch along each mark, leaving long thread tails at the beginning and end of each line. Double-knot the thread ends.

Using a lighter, quickly and carefully melt the excess thread just beyond the knot to seal the thread (4).

Wipe the jacket pieces with a damp cloth to remove the markings.

CONSTRUCT

Use 1/2" seam allowances unless otherwise noted.

Install matching polyester thread onto the machine and select a 3mm stitch length.

Position the left-front panel and corresponding sleeve at the armscye with right sides together; secure using binder clips, and then stitch.

Topstitch 1/4" to either side of the armscye seamline, catching the seam allowances in the topstitching.

Repeat to stitch the opposite sleeve to the corresponding back armscye.

Position the left-front panel and back with right sides together, aligning the sleeve underarm and side seams; secure with binder clips, and then stitch.

Topstitch 1/4" beyond each side of the seamline, catching the seam allowances in the topstitching.

Repeat to construct the right-front jacket, remaining sleeve and back.

Fold the collar in half lengthwise with wrong sides together. Designate the folded edge as the upper edge.

Position the collar lower edge over the jacket neckline with right sides together; pin. (The jacket center front will extend 1 1/2" beyond each collar end.) Stitch using a scant 1/4" seam allowance.

Unfold one bias-tape long edge With right sides together, align the bias-tape long raw edge with the jacket neckline, sandwiching the collar between the jacket and bias tape; pin. Stitch using a 1/4" seam allowance, beginning and ending at the collar ends.

Fold the collar upward with the seam allowance toward the jacket. Trim the bias tape 1/4" past the jacket edge and fold the short ends toward the bias-tape wrong side, aligning the fold with the center front; pin.

Thread a hand sewing needle with a single thread length. Hand stitch the bias-tape fold to the jacket wrong side using a blind-hem stitch, continuing beyond the collar end and around the remaining bias tape to secure it to the jacket wrong side (5).

Thread a hand sewing needle with a quadruple thread length. Hand stitch the snaps to the right-front jacket wrong side at the pattern markings, making sure the thread isn't visible on the jacket right side. Hand stitch the corresponding snaps to the left-front jacket right side at the pattern markings.

SOURCE

Macro International carries 3mm neoprene sheets: macrointlco.com.

TIP

Install a new rotary cutter blade to ensure precise cuts when working with neoprene.
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Title Annotation:guides for sewing
Author:Mandri, Emily Li
Publication:Sew News
Article Type:Instructions
Date:Dec 1, 2016
Words:1042
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