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THIS WEEK: STUD PARTITION WALL (PART TWO); diy donny.

Byline: Donny Sheridan

When my wife started banging on about a new stud in the bedroom, I thought I must have a rival for her affections.

Thankfully she was talking about the partition wall for an en-suite bathroom.

Last week I showed you how to put up the outer frame - the ceiling and floor plates and two wall plates. These must be filled using vertical studs 400-600mm apart depending on the thickness of the plasterboard - 400mm centres for 9.5mm thick plasterboard and 600mm centres for 12.5mm.

More 100x50mm timber is then inserted and dwanged to provide lateral support.

Infilling provides an even fixing for the plasterboard and supports for electrics and plumbing. Once the plasterboard has been fixed and plastered it is costly to rectify.

THE TOOLS YOU'LL NEED

Spirit level

Drill

Saw and hammer

Stanley knife

Tape measure and pencil

MATERIALS

100mm x 50mm sawn softwood

100mm nails and 100mm screws

35mm dry wall screws

12.5mm thick plasterboard

Here's how it's done...

1 Measure and mark the centres of the vertical studs. Make life easy for yourself and use 12.5mm-thick plasterboard which means the studs can be 600mm apart. A standard section of plasterboard is 1200mm wide so you will need a stud at the start, middle and end.

2 Measure the distance between the ceiling plate and floor plate and cut the vertical stud to size. Nail it to the floor plate making sure the 100mm nails are hammered home at an angle. Use a spirit level to ensure the stud is vertical then fix it to the ceiling plate.

3 To stiffen up the partition, cut timber dwangs and fit them between the centres of the vertical studs. Stagger the dwangs so nails can be easily hammered into the ends of the dwang through the studs.

4 Position a stud where you want the door located. Measure the width of the door frame and fit a stud at the other end of the frame. Next, fit the frame to the studs, ensuring it is level.

5 The door frame will need additional support at the top and centre. Cut a section of timber to size and screw it into position.

6 Once the timber is in place simply fit plasterboard vertically over the frame. Ensure the plasterboard is in the middle of the end studs so the next sheet of plasterboard has a good fixing. Use a wedge such as a bolster and wood to force the board tight at the top.

7 Screw the board to the timber studs using 35mm drywall screws spacing them approximately the distance between your thumb and index finger (should be around 200mm).

8 At the end of the partition you will have to cut the plasterboard to size using a sharp Stanley knife. Hold a straight edge against the board and cut through the paper down one side. Snap the board from the other side, then cut through the paper.

9 Job's done.

TOP TIP - If the ceiling and floor plate are in line the filling of the partition is straightforward.
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Title Annotation:Features
Publication:Sunday Mail (Glasgow, Scotland)
Date:Jun 10, 2007
Words:515
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