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When the brown truck arrived one afternoon, I was expecting delivery of a rifle. The driver handed me a rifle box and said, "There's another one here for you." He pushed a box the size of a coffin toward me! It had warning stickers plastered all over it reading "OVER 70 POUNDS." The nice UPS man offered to carry it to the house and I gladly accepted. After he left, I struggled to push it in the front door. The return address on the shipping label was SARCO. Now what did they send me? A pack howitzer? A German Nebelwerfer? 82mm mortar with base plate? A light went on in my ancient mind, and I recalled the editor mentioning an article about a Browning 1919. Hmmm. That must be it.

I felt like I should be doing one of those "unpacking" videos on YouTube when I opened the box. There were metal ammo boxes, cloth belts, a tripod, and, low and behold, a Browning 1919A4. Holy cow. It looked great. I set up the tripod on the shop floor, bolted the pintle mount to the gun and dropped it into the tripod. Neat. I left it there for about a week so my customers could gawk at it. Everyone had to touch it and get down behind it aiming it at imaginary foes. It was a real conversation piece.

How did this iconic relic of past conflicts, manufactured in the 1940s, wind up on my cellar floor? Good question. Let us touch briefly on the history of the Browning machine gun.

As the United States entered the War to End All Wars in 1917, our forces lacked sufficient quantities of modern weapons, such as machine guns, and they were forced to field an array of guns, including Maxims, Vickers, Colts and anything else that could be procured quickly. The War Department had been offered the Maxim gun by inventor Hiram Maxim and had rejected it (!). Mr. Maxim sold his invention to the Europeans.

Colt had been tooling up to produce the Vickers gun, and it seemed to be the best choice available at the time, until John M. Browning demoed his new 1917 water-cooled design for War Department officials. They were so impressed they ordered it into immediate production. Tens of thousands were produced, but few of them saw combat before the war ended' in 1918. All recoil-operated Browning machine guns owe their basic design to the M1917. After the war, an air-cooled version of the BMG was desired. The M1919 series of guns dispensed with the water jacket around the barrel, water can, and heavy tripod. Although designed in 1925, the air-cooled guns did not enter limited production until 1939.

Sensing a growing urgency to arm the nation in the late 1930s, forward-thinking War Department officials began awarding contracts to industrial firms, such as General Motors, that were experts in producing machines efficiently, although they had no experience producing firearms. This was a much bigger undertaking than one might imagine. One day your company is manufacturing steering gears for trucks, and the next day you're pumping out Browning machine guns. By the end of the war, General Motors had produced hundreds of thousands of Browning machine guns of all types.

The M1919A4 was standardized as the U.S. Army's light machine gun in World War II and continued to serve in Korea and the Vietnam War until it was eventually replaced by the M60. The demise of the 1919 series guns was hastened by its weight (over 30 pounds without ground mount), an action which fired from a closed bolt, limiting barrel cooling and increasing the chance of a cook-off, and the lack of a quick-change barrel. Also, it was designed around 1920s manufacturing techniques, which made it complicated and expensive to produce in modern times. That being said, it was a solid, dependable weapon with a good combat record that lacked the legions of detractors who disparaged the M60.

After World War II, the military downsized once again, and surplus Brownings were supplied to allies all over the world, including the new state of Israel.

Israel converted many of its BMGs to 7.62 NATO I and added a few upgrades to increase reliability. Eventually, Israel sold off its Brownings as surplus parts kits, a number of which wound up at Sarco. The right sideplate is considered the serial numbered part or "receiver," which makes the weapon a full-auto gun banned from importation by the Gun Control Act of 1968, and ineligible for sale to civilians, if manufactured after May 19th, 1986, by the Reagan Administration machine-gun ban in 1986. It is not included in the kits. However, new semi-auto sideplates are available, and it is possible to build your very own semi-auto Browning or purchase one constructed by a licensed manufacturer. Sideplates have been sold as 100% (transferrable through FFLs as a firearm) and 70% or 80% machined obtainable without an FFL, but requiring more work to complete.

The Sarco Gun: As stated earlier, the Browning supplied by Sarco was built from an Israeli parts kit. Israeli markings are visible on various parts. Oh, the stories this gun could tell if it could talk! Service in World War II? The 1967 War? We will never know. It is certainly an interesting piece of military history.

Let's do an external inspection of the gun and evaluate what we have. The entire weapon has a new appearance and is phosphated or Parkerized like the originals. The pintle, M2 tripod and T&E mechanism have a black finish and appear to be imported replicas. The right sideplate of the receiver has been engraved with markings indicating manufacture by Saginaw Steering Gear Division of General Motors, the largest manufacturer of 1919A4s during the 1941-1945 period.

Starting at the muzzle, we have a cylinder screwed into the front of the barrel jacket with numbers engraved on it. This is the booster found on all 1919A4s, designed to trap gas and assist the barrel in its rearward movement when a round is fired. The original 1917 water-cooled Brownings had a light barrel surrounded by a water jacket. The short recoil system employed by BMGs requires the barrel and bolt to remain locked for a short distance as they recoil rearward. The heavy barrel of the 1919A4 slowed down this movement, causing malfunctions, so the booster was created to give the barrel an extra kick from the muzzle as a bullet exited. The size of the booster orifice is caliber-specific. 7.62mm NATO requires a smaller hole (.531) than .30-06 (.718), due to the lower pressure of the 7.62mm cartridge at the muzzle. Firing the weapon without a booster is not recommended. Boosters can be removed for cleaning, but the locking ring behind them may be staked and require replacement during re-installation.

The rear section of the booster acts as a barrel bearing, which, as its name implies, supports the muzzle end of the barrel.

The barrel jacket is nothing more than a perforated tube that screws on to the trunnion. It supports the barrel booster/bearing at the muzzle end and protects the barrel. Jackets are not normally removed from the trunnion for any reason except replacement. The jacket lock screw on our test gun was staked.

The 24-inch barrel is a straight cylinder VA inches in diameter, weighing 7 pounds, 6 ounces. This one had Israeli proof marks on the breech end and a production date of 3-79. It appeared to be chrome lined. The breech ends of all BMG barrels have ratchet teeth milled into them. This is for setting headspace, which we discuss below.

Think of the M1919A4 receiver, or "casing," as a narrow steel box 15 inches long, two inches wide, and four inches deep. The sides of the box are fiat steel plates 3/16 inch thick. A plate is riveted to the bottom rear of the box but extends only 7 inches forward. This bottom plate contains the very important breech cam lock, which forces the bolt lock up into position when the bolt is in battery. From the front edge of the bottom plate to the trunnion, the bottom of the box is open. Fired casings fall through this hole to the ground. Spent shells are simply dropped like turds out of the gun. The top plate is home for the rear sight and cover latch. The rear ends of the side plates are internally grooved to accept the back plate, which slides down into place from the top.

The front of the receiver is plugged by a sizeable chunk of steel known as the trunnion block. External threads on the trunnion face support the barrel jacket, and the bottom sports a large hole for the pintle cross bolt. The rear of the barrel passes through the trunnion, but shouldn't touch the sides of the hole, as it is supported by the barrel extension. The top surface of the trunnion is flat and serves to support the ammunition belts as they are fed into the gun. A beltholding pawl is pinned to the left side along with, in this case, a modified belt-holding pawl bracket, which the Israelis added as part of the conversion from .3006 to 7.62 NATO. The cover is hinged to the top of the trunnion. The front sight is screwed to the top of the trunnion face.

The cover contains the belt feed lever, slide and pawl. These parts constitute the mechanism that drags the belts across the trunnion deck. Another small but critical item in the cover is the extractor spring, which provides downward pressure on the extractor so it snaps over the rims of cartridges it extracts from a belt. It is a seemingly minor but very critical strip of spring steel.

The bolt is machined from a solid block of steel. The extractor arm pivots in a hole on the left side. The bolt face has a cartridge guide known as a T-Slot machined in it from top to bottom. The T-Slot of our Israeli modified bolt is slightly larger than original spec, due to dimensional differences between the .3006 and 7.62 NATO cartridges. The top of the bolt is deeply engraved "7.62" indicating this change. Interestingly, 7.62 modified bolts will run .30-06, 7.62 or 8mm ammo fine. A curved track is machined in the top of the bolt to drive the feed lever in the cover. The firing pin, cocking lever, and driving spring are also contained in the bolt. The bolt is positioned on the barrel extension when the gun is assembled.

The barrel extension is screwed on to the barrel. A barrel locking spring on the left side locks into the headspacing notches of the barrel, preventing it from rotating once headspace is set. At the rear of the barrel extension is the breech lock, which cams up behind the bolt to lock it when it is ready to fire.

The last major component is the lock frame. The lock frame is stationary and contains the trigger and accelerator. The angled cams on the front of the lock frame unlock the bolt, allowing it to recoil rearward.

Loading, Firing, Function: OK, lets load this puppy and see how it works. Ammo can be loaded in either cloth belts or steel links. The links must be of the Browning type. The M13 links designed for the M60 machine guns of my misspent youth will not work. Not only must the links be of the Browning type, but they must match the caliber of the weapon. .308 links for .308, .30-06 links for .30-06, etc.

Generally speaking, we do not purchase ammo from retailers in belted form, so you need a way to fill the links or belts in an efficient manner. Link loaders are pretty easy to come by. I used one manufactured by Ohio Ordnance Works ( that worked fabulously.

I haven't solved the cloth belt loading problem yet. A 1918 model belt loader in good condition runs north of a grand nowadays, and for this project it would need to be converted to .308. I mainly tested the gun with links, but I did load a cloth belt by hand (tedious) just to verify the gun would run it.

Looking at a loaded linked belt, you have two ends; single loop on one end and double loop on the other. The double loop goes in the gun first. The feed cover should be closed, although you can load the gun with the cover open if for some reason you want to do it that way. If you're lucky enough to have loading tabs on your belts, push the tab through the feed slot and pull it from the other side until you feel the first round snap over the belt-holding pawl. If you don't have tabs on your belts, simply push the first round into the opening until the pawl grabs it. In the name of science, I tried loading belts from both ends, single loop or double loop, and the gun ran fine either way. I'm not saying all guns will work in this manner, but this one did.

Once the first round is secured by the belt pawl, the cocking handle is pulled all the way to the rear and released. This is known as half loading. The round is in position but not yet chambered. Pull the handle and release again. The gun is now loaded and ready to fire. (Note: There is no manual safety on this weapon.)

Pulling the trigger lowers the sear and releases the firing pin. The force of the weapon firing results in the barrel, bolt and barrel extension moving rearward together for about 5/8 inch until the cams on the lock frame force the bolt lock down, unlocking the bolt from the barrel extension, allowing it to continue to the rear on its own. The extractor, riding the cams in the left side plate, pulls a round from the belt and guides it down the T-slot in the bolt face to position it behind the chamber while the spring-loaded tip of the extractor, referred to as the ejector, kicks the spent case out the bottom of the T-slot.

The bolt smacks the buffer stack in the back plate, stopping its rearward movement, and the driving spring returns it forward. The extractor cams up out of the bolt path as the fresh round is chambered, and the bolt lock is forced up behind the bolt by the angled surface of the cam lock on the bottom plate, locking it for firing.

All this time, the belt feed lever stud is riding in the track on the top of the bolt, causing it to pull another round into position. This is the short version of the firing cycle. Other things are going on, like the cocking lever cocking the firing pin and the accelerator smacking the bolt to speed its rearward movement, but you get the picture.

To clear the weapon, open the cover and remove the belt. Pull the bolt back to eject the loaded round and/ or verify the chamber is empty. The bolt can be locked to the rear. Pull the bolt all the way back and look inside the left side plate. You see front and rear extractor cams riveted there. At the tail end of the rear cam is a small semi-circular cut. While holding the bolt to the rear, lift the extractor up slightly to align the spring-loaded plunger with the cut and ease the bolt forward so the plunger is captured. A piece of wood can be inserted in front of the open bolt for additional safety and to indicate a clear weapon to others on the line.

Field Stripping: Let's take this thing apart. As with any weapon, the first step is to ensure the chamber is empty.

The 1919 is designed to be field stripped using only a cartridge. Open the cover, pull the bolt all the way to the rear, and look at the back plate. The slotted head of the driving spring rod will be sticking out a hole to the right of the pistol grip. Insert a cartridge rim or flat tip screwdriver into the slot of the rod, push it forward and rotate it 90 degrees clockwise. A stud on the rod will engage a notch in the bolt, locking the spring in a compressed state and taking tension off the bolt.

Push the cover latch forward, and lift the back plate up and out of the casing. DANGER, WILL ROBINSON! NEVER GET BEHIND THE DRIVING SPRING ROD WHEN THE BACK PLATE IS REMOVED. The stored energy in this spring could seriously injure you if the plunger is accidentally released.

Move the bolt to align the cocking handle with the enlarged end of the slot and pull it straight out. Pull the bolt out of the rear of the casing and set it aside WITH THE DRIVE SPRING FACING AWAY FROM YOU.

At the lower rear of the right sideplate, you will see a hole with a plunger captured in it. This is the plunger that secures the lock frame in the casing. You can use a bullet to depress the plunger, or some cocking handles, such as the one supplied with the Sarco gun, have a punch machined on the end that is inserted into the gun.

Depress the plunger and pull the lock frame, barrel extension and barrel out of the casing. Now the gun is field stripped.

Obviously, we can take this Browning masterpiece apart further, but that is rarely necessary and beyond the scope of this article. If you own one of these guns and you really want to detail strip it and understand how it works, I would suggest obtaining a copy of the AGI armorer's course on the 1919A4. John Bush does an incredible job explaining the function of the weapon and disassembly. It's available for $39.95 from

There are a few things you should not take apart, even when detail stripping the gun. Looking at the bottom of the casing, you will see a screw that is heavily staked to the bottom plate. This screw retains the cam lock. No need to remove the cam lock unless it's damaged and requires replacement. On the right rear side of the barrel jacket, you will see another heavily staked screw. Ditto for this one. The barrel jacket rarely requires removal. Don't mess with the extractor small parts like the ejector and extractor plunger unless they require replacement. The pins are tight and there is no need to remove them.

I inspected two Sarco kits I have in the shop, and one extractor had a broken plunger. I looked around, but no one seemed to have replacement parts. I ended up ordering a whole extractor assembly from a guy on ebay. Parts are drying up. Grab a spare extractor for your kit if you can. The whole gun is disabled if the extractor is bad.

I would leave the firing pin assembly alone. It was issued as an assembly and is usually sold that way. We mentioned the muzzle booster before. It is probably staked in place and not normally removed for maintenance. Our Sarco gun came with a one-piece booster. This is good, because if you have to remove it, the whole booster/bearing unit comes off together. There were also two-piece boosters. The problem there is the booster (front cap) may come off, leaving no way to remove the back half. Please don't use a pipe wrench!

Headspace: While the gun is field stripped, we will adjust the headspace, because Israeli guns have square ratchet teeth on the barrel and a matching square barrel locking spring that can't be adjusted while the gun is assembled like U.S. guns. The headspace of a BMG is the distance from the bolt face to the rear of the barrel. On a 1919, this distance needs to be .125 inch minimum, and no more than .130 inch maximum. Gages were produced to check this tolerance in the field. I purchased a gage from Apex Gun Parts (Apex for this purpose.

First, with the barrel, barrel extension and bolt assembled together, turn the barrel in until the bolt lock can't be pushed up into locked position, and then back it off until the bolt just locks. Make sure the cocking lever is forward, so the firing pin doesn't stick out of the bolt face. Insert the .125-inch GO gage into the T-slot on the bolt face. If there is resistance, the headspace is too tight. Back the barrel off a notch and try it again. Each notch increases headspace .004 inch. When the gage slides easily into the slot without dragging, you should be good. I find the gage easier to use from the bottom of the barrel extension than the top through the bolt.

Another method of headspacing utilizes a dummy round (assembled bolt) or a live round (stripped bolt) in the chamber. We don't want to use a live round with a cocked firing pin behind it, hence the stripped bolt. Screw the barrel in with bolt lock fully engaged until the last full click that bottoms on the cartridge and back it off two clicks. This is a good technique if you get a killer deal on some mystery ammo from a country you never heard of that might not be manufactured to SAAMI specs.

A third method is to screw the barrel in to the last full click where the bolt will fully lock, and then back it off two clicks. Check it with the gage. Any one of these methods should work.

Re-assembly: Assemble the barrel to the barrel extension if it was separated, and adjust headspace using one of the methods above. Attach the lock frame to the rear of the barrel extension. Slide this whole assembly into the casing. You may have to stick your finger through one of the bottom holes in the barrel jacket to guide the barrel muzzle into the booster/ bearing. You will have to depress the trigger pin to get the entire assembly into the casing.

Make sure the cocking lever is forward and start the bolt into the casing with the front end slightly upward, and DO NOT GET BEHIND THE DRIVING SPRING. The forward end of the bolt will engage the guide rails on the barrel extension, and you can push it forward until the cocking handle hole in the right side lines up with the enlarged hole in the casing. Insert the handle and push the bolt forward. Install the backplate. Pull the bolt to the rear until the driving spring rod protrudes through the hole, and turn the rod 90 degrees left to release it. The bolt will now be under tension and the gun is assembled.

Test Firing: Initially, I test fired the gun for function with iron sights and zeroed them at 100 yards.

When it was obvious that the sights wouldn't work well for my 60-year-old eyes, I started to consider mounting an optic. But who makes a scope mount for a 1919A4? I stumbled across KMP Classic Arms in Mansfield, Ohio ( It manufactures BMGs in both semi and full auto and produces several accessories, including a scope mount. The mount is aluminum and screws to the rear sight mounting plate on the left side of the casing. A Picatinny rail is positioned right over the rear sight.

Initially, I mounted a Vortex Sparc AR red dot and it was fun, but I needed something for accuracy testing that was powerful enough to dispense with a spotting scope and adjustable for parallax, since my head position behind the gun would certainly not be consistent. I had a Sightron S-Tac 3-16x42 scope that had failed testing M-14s for a previous article. It had been sent to the factory for repair and returned to me. Time to test it. I mounted it to the KMP rail and zeroed it. The scope worked fine throughout the entire test.

This was a tough gun to test for accuracy. The firing position can charitably be described as awkward. But, test it we did, with four types of ammo. The gun was 100% reliable while chewing through several hundred rounds, with the exception of a small glitch in the trigger. Once in a while, the trigger did not completely reset, and I had to push it down slightly to fire the next round. This problem became rarer as the gun was broken in and it is safe to speculate it might eventually disappear, but semi-auto triggers are different from the original Browning design, so it could well be a problem in the conversion process. A worse problem for accuracy testing was the trigger pull weight, which was over 11 pounds. I learned to live with it.

Accuracy was certainly reasonable for a light machine gun. Most groups were in the 2 1/2- to 3-inch range at 100 yards with military ball ammo.

A major factor affecting accuracy on any gun is throat erosion, but I had no way to gauge the used mil-surp barrel of the Sarco gun for wear, so I can't say for sure whether it was high mileage or not. I do know it chewed through belts with ease and functioned smoothly without cleaning or lubrication.

Semi Auto vs. Full Auto: There are some differences worth noting between BMGs in their original state and kits built into semi-auto replicas. The differences are all internal, so there are no glaring clues that a gun like the Sarco isn't a real machine gun. First, the right side plate we mentioned earlier is different from its full-auto brethren. Looking at the inside surface of a semi-auto side plate, a raised section of steel is evident. This precludes the use of full-auto parts. The bolt, barrel extension and lock frame must all have clearance milled into their right sides so they can be assembled into the casing. The trigger is also modified so it will require a reset after each round.

Israeli Modifications: Parts kits from Israel contain a host of modifications made to the original U.S. G.I. guns. We've mentioned the muzzle booster specific to 7.62 NATO above. These are marked "13.5mm", indicating the size of the exit hole. The top covers are different, including changes to the feeding mechanism necessitated by the shorter 7.62 cartridge. The rear sights are recalibrated for 7.62 and marked to indicate the change. The hole in the bottom of the trunnion for the pintle bolt was drilled out and a replaceable bushing was fitted. If the bolt hole got sloppy, it could be repaired with a new bushing. The Israelis used a bolt hold open bar riveted to the right side plate like earlier U.S. guns, but you won't see them, because they were destroyed with the full-auto plates. Israeli bolts are prominently marked "7.62" to indicate the T-slots are modified for 7.62 NATO.

Front and rear cartridge stops were added to the left side of the trunnion to narrow the opening and center the shorter 7.62 cartridge for reliable feeding. The belt pawl is also wider than the U.S. model. The headspace adjustment teeth on the barrel are square, rather than scalloped like U.S. models, and the barrel locking spring tip is also square. The headspace must be adjusted with the gun field stripped, as noted above.

The Kits: 1919A4 parts kits seem to be drying up quickly, but Sarco still has some, and occasionally it has complete guns, like this beauty we were allowed to test for this article. For anyone who collects military small arms, a semi-auto Browning can be acquired for far less money and paperwork than a full-auto. You will have pretty much everything you need in a kit, except the right side plate, and those can be transferred like any firearm through your local FFL. Modifying the parts requires machining, but there are places out there that will do it for you.

Further Reading: Great books are available on the Browning machine guns. "Hard Rain," by Frank Iannamico, is one. It is out of print, but copies can be found on Dolf Goldsmith wrote a series of five (!) books. The first four volumes of "The Browning Machine Gun" were for Collector Grade Publications, while volume five was printed by Chipotle Publishing, LLC. I believe Mr. Goldsmith's books are still available.

Now, I've got to wrap up this article and get back to inspecting my parts kits so I can build my own semi-auto Browning. They sure are fun!

Caption: A WWII gun crew. Note the starter tab hanging out of the right side of the gun.

Caption: The Sarco 1919A4 is an originai Israeii 7.62mm parts kit manufactured as a semi-auto transferrab.e through any FFL.

Caption: Israeli soldier manning his Browning, 1967.

Caption: A U.S. Army WWII reenactor marches with a Browning 1919A4 at the largest D-Day reeanactment In the U.S.A. the Eric in Conneaut, Ohio (

Caption: Marine gun crew in Korea. Note the Chinese grenade and a "burp gun" magazine at lower right. Both cloth belts and steel links are on the ground.

Caption: Right side of the Sarco 1919A4.

Caption: Left side of the Sarco 1919A4.

Caption: Markings on the Sarco gun replicate those of WWII Saginaw production.

Caption: The muzzle booster/bearing. This is the late one-piece type.

Caption: Square head spacing teeth on the barrel indicate Israeli manufacture.

Caption: The bolt. Extractor is on the left. The slot that drives the belt feed lever on top, along with the cocking ever.

Caption: The bolt face (T-slot). Pivoting extractor arm with spring loaded ejector on the tip.

Caption: Barrel extension and barrel showing the lock spring and timing notches.

Caption: Browning style 7.62 links (left) and M13 links for the M60 LMG (right).

Caption: The Israelis found cloth belts less likely to foul in the sand than steel linked belts.

Caption: Links and rounds lay in the slots of the OOW link loader. When the lever is pushed, a loaded belt is created.

Caption: The starter tab is pushed through the cover and given a tug to seat the first round past the belt pawl.

Caption: Field strip, step one: Ensure the chamber is empty.

Caption: Field strip, step two: With the bolt pulled to the rear, the head of the drive spring rod is exposed through the back plate.

Caption: Field strip, step three: Push the cover latch forward, and lift the back plate up and out of the casing.

Caption: Field strip, step four: Remove the cocking handle through the enlarged hole at the rear of its slot.

Caption: Field strip, step five: Slide the bolt out the rear of the casing.

Caption: Field strip, step six: Push in the trigger pin through the hole in the casing to release the lock frame.

Caption: Field stripped. Below the barrel and extension, left to right, are the lock frame, bolt, back plate and cocking handle.

Caption: Headspace and timing gage for the 1919A4.

Caption: Checking headspace through the bottom of the barrel extension.

Caption: The front sight is bolted to the trunnion and adjustable for elevation.

Caption: G.I. rear sights were re-calibrated by the Israelis for the 7.62 cartridge. I

Caption: The KMP scope mount worked great for accuracy testing and remained tight with a drop of Loctite on the screws.

Caption: This five-shot group on a 100 yard SR-1 target was fired with Winchester Q3130 ball ammo. The 10-ring is 3.35 inches in diameter.

Caption: After a hard day turning loaded cartridges into brass, the Sarco 1919A4 takes a break.

Caption: Re-enactors will find the Sarco BMG adds a new level of realism to their activities.

                           (grains)           (fps)

Portuguese                    147             2880
NATO ball BF79

Federal American Eagle        168             2716
OTM A76251M1A

Winchester 7.62 NATO          147             3030
ball Q3130

LC94 7.62 NATO                147             2963
ball M80

LOAD                     STANDARD    100 YARD    BEST 5-SHOT
                         DEVIATION   AVG (in.)      GROUP

Portuguese                  28         2.8"         2.4"
NATO ball BF79

Federal American Eagle      50         2.78"        2.15"
OTM A76251M1A

Winchester 7.62 NATO        26         3.1"         2.7"
ball Q3130

LC94 7.62 NATO              23         3.13"        2.6"
ball M80

Accuracy results are averages of 4 five-shot groups
fired from a rest at 100 yards. Velocity figures are
10-shot averages at 166 ft above sea level.


Caliber:               7.62 NATO

Operation:             Short recoil

Barrel Length:         24"

Rifling:               4 grooves, 1/12 twist

Trigger:               Single stage military

Trigger Pull Weight:   11 pounds

Feed:                  Linked or cloth belts

Overall Length:        40 1/2"

Weight (unloaded)      30 pounds

Sights:                Leaf rear, blade front

Finish:                Mil-spec manganesse phosphate

MSRP:                  $3,000

Contact:               SARCO
                       50 Hilton Street
                       Easton, PA 18042
                       (610) 438-2548
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Author:Norcross, Gus
Publication:Firearms News
Date:Nov 1, 2018
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