THAI-INSPIRED KOKODA.

Tikaram often serves this version to suit the rest of his menu at E.P. & L.P., which tilts toward Southeast Asia. "The original kokoda is so subtle. This spin helps it stand up against those crazy flavors."

Make kokoda from page 80, but hold the salt. Then add the following: 2 tbsp. each Thai or Vietnamese fish sauce and distilled white vinegar, 1 tsp. each sugar and minced lemon-grass (inner part of stalk only), a pinch of finely slivered lime leaf (about 1 leaf), and 1 tbsp. fiery-hot Asian-style red chile oil. Instead of cilantro, top with a few rounds of thinly sliced lemongrass (inner stalk) and a few more lime leaf slivers.

PER SERVING 295 Cal., 67% (198 Cal.) from fat; 1 o g protein; 22 g fat (1 2 g sat.); 10 g carbo (1.2 g fiber); 1,447 mg sodium; 31 mg chol.