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Surprises in and around Los Angeles.

The Olympic Games will be the hottest show in town this summer, but this report is not about them. What it is about is discovering the dozens of ways to enrich a visit to Los Angeles: where, for example, to ride canal-cruising gondolas or see a world-class art museum in a warehouse. No urban center in the West holds more surprises--or conceals them so well--as Los Angeles County.

Whether you're coming to see the Olympics, or plan to visit later this year--or even if you're a resident Angeleno--our guide will send you in the right directions. Some places--Hollywood, Beverly Hills, beaches--are no surprise, but you can still make discoveries there, and we tell how. The big map on the next two pages can help you size up L.A. County. (For an update on Disneyland and Knott's Berry Farm in neighboring Orange County, see page 64.) Follow the numbered dots to 145 L.A. surprises

All those circles on our Los Angeles County map are color-coded by activity, and number-keyed to the text and captions. Here are four examples to get you started.

Vaudeville at the beach

Spotlit by sunshine so much of the time, some Southern California sidewalks have become open-air stages. Along Venice's beachside Ocean Front Walk (35), you'll see--and hear--the best. Reggae combos and jazz pianists vie for attention. Bongo troupes compete with steel-drum groups. Some of the comedy borders on bawdy. Come before 11 to park ($3 or $4) at the ocean end of Rose or Windward Avenue, then stroll the 3/4 mile between.

Canal-cruising by gondola

Venetian gondolas in Naples? Six replicas of the Italian craft ply the salt-water canals near Long Beach. The oak-and-mahogany boats (see cover) each carry from 2 to 10 passengers on 1-hour cruises. Gondola Getaways (125), based at Seaport Village on Alamitos Bay, offers cruises any day at any hour; call (213) 430-6860. The price--$40 per couple, $10 for each additional person--includes bread, cheese, meat, fruit, and glasses; you provide your own wine.

The last of the citrus

Better known for discovering the La Brea Tar Pits, W.W. Orcutt also planted one of the San Fernando Valley's biggest citrus groves. Today the remainder is Orcutt Ranch Horticulture Center (4), the last commercial citrus grove in the city of Los Angeles.

On two summer weekends (June 30 and July 1, July 7 and 8), you are invited to pick from 1,500 'Valencia' orange trees and hundreds of grapefruit trees. Bring your own self-standing ladder and grocery bag or field box. You'll pay $1 per bag, $2 per box. Picking hours are 8 to 4.

Come anytime for streamside picnicking and a nature trail with 500-year-old oaks. Summer hours are 7 to 7 daily; free. The ranch is at 23600 Roscoe Boulevard, Canoga Park; (818) 883-6641.

Where to jog botanically

For joggers with a horticultural bent, here are two garden paths with enough fascinating flora to slow you down to a stroll. Beverly Gardens Park (52), laid out in the 1930s, spans Beverly Hills from border to border. A 2-mile, crushed-granite path takes you past a 300-bush rose garden, exemplary cactus and succulents such as Opuntia and elephant trees, flowering jacaranda and monkey hand trees, and Chinese elms. The park borders Santa Monica and Wilshire boulevards; there's parking on cross streets.

Century-old Palisades Park (14) is hemmed between Santa Monica's Ocean Avenue and its steep bluffs. The 1-1/2-mile-long park boasts the area's best stand of Mexican fan palms (see above), hundreds of feathery-fronded Canary Island date palms, a dozen kinds of eucalyptus. You can jog on grass. There's parking on Ocean Avenue and side streets. In our City of Wheels, showcases for yesterday's classics

Ever since they hit L.A. streets in 1900, automobiles have shaped the city and the lives of Angelenos. Here are places to se the classic cars of yesteryear.

Grand collection. San Sylmar (18), 15180 Bledsoe St., Sylmar 91342; (213) 367-1085. Some 30 of 130 classic and antique cars rotate on display in the Merle Norman Classic Beauty Collection. Twice-daily 2-hours tours are free; write or call to reserve. You'll see such beauties as Rudolph Valentino's 1923 Avions Voisin and Fatty Arbuckle's flame-red 1923 McFarlan Knickerbocker Cabriolet. A mezzanine houses more than 1,100 hood ornaments. The tour also includes rare mechanical musical instruments.

Two exhibitions. Los Angeles County Museum of Natural History (94), 900 Exposition Boulevard, Los Angeles; (213) 744-3411. In honor of the 1932 Olympics, the ground-floor automobile hall has been decorated as a grand art deco backdrop for a dozen elegant examples of '32 vintage, such as a Packard Dual-Cowl Phaeton. Open Tuesdays through Sundays 10 to 5. Admission is $1.50 for adults.

Los Angeles Museum of Contemporary Art (88), see page 128.

Two Showrooms. California Custom Coach (130), 1285 E. Colorado Boulevard, Pasadena; (818) 796-4395. This manufacturer of replica 1935 Auburn Boattail Speedsters also exhibits old and unusual cars for sale on consignment, including such recent classics as a '55 Chevy and a '63 split-window Corvette. It's also a one-stop custom restoration center. Open weekdays 9 to 6, Saturdays noon to 4.

Rodeo Coach (53), 9501 Wilshire Boulevard, Beverly Hills; (213) 278-5000. This exotic-car customizer displays and sells Ferraris, Clenets, EXcaliburs, Stutzes, and the like. Open Mondays through Saturdays 9 to 9, Sundays 10 to 5. Dining adventures: French-Japanese. In markets. In canyons

L.A.'s trend-setting restaurants fall into every imaginable category. These promise adventure--and good eating.

Newest culinary combo. Japanese-French means fresh ingredients, artful arrangement, often exotic combinations.

Chefs like Susumu Fukui (shown above) are equally at home working with champagne or sake, sorrel or seaweed. Dishes range from scrambled eggs and sea urchin enclosed in pastry to Japanese mushrooms in champagne vinaigrette and chicken flambeed in mustard and sake.

At these five restaurants, prices are moderate to expensive. Call for reservations.

Los Angeles. Ishi's Grill (76), 3706 Beverly Boulevard; (213) 386-9637. Table and counter seating. New wave decor.

La Petite Chaya (74), 1930 Hillhurst Avenue; (213) 665-5991. Dining room and patio seating.

Lyon (77), 3360 W. First Street; (213) 381-5040. Sushi-bar seating.

Pasadena. Cafe Jacaoulet (129), 91 N. Raymond Avenue; (818) 796-2233. Dining room, wine and gourmet shop.

Sherman Oaks. C'est Japon (25), 14670 Ventura Boulevard; (213) 906-2922. Sushibar, booth, and sunroom seating.

Noshing as you market. Why wait until you get home to eat your purchases? At these four markets, you can have a meal while you shop.

Granddaddy of them all, the Farmers Market (69), at W. Third Street and Fairfax Avenue, is 50 years old this summer. Over 150 vendors sell everything from cherimoya fruits to cashew butter. On three patios, you can sip exotic fruit juices or dine on Mexican dishes, deli sandwiches, and much more. Go for breakfast at 9 before tour traffic begins. Summer hours: 9 A.M. to 8 P.M., 10 to 6 Sundays.

A mile west on Third at S. San Vicente Boulevard, Irvine Ranch Farmers Market (57) fills a ground-floor corner of Beverly Center Mall. Check the Beautiful produce, fish, meat, cheese, and wine sections. The bakery and gourmet deli areas wrap around an informal cafe. Hours: 9 A.M. to 10 P.M., to 8 Sundays.

Downtown L.A.'s block-long Grand Central Public Market (86), at 317 S. Broadway, may remind you of a Mexican mercado. Among stalls stacked with fresh chilies, chayotes, nopales (cactus), and papayas are counters of pastries and freshly made tortillas. Stands sell inexpensive tasty fare, including carnitas (succulent roasted pork), sandwich-like tortas. Hours: 9 to 6 Mondays through Saturdays.

At Santa Monica's Charmers Market (34), 175 Marine Street, stalls offering gourmet pastries, pastas, wines, and produce surround a cafe. One bar serves coffees and wines, another champagne and caviar. Hours: 11 A.M. to 1 A.M., to 2 A.M. Fridays and Saturdays, 10 A.M. to midnight Sundays.

Canyon dining outdoors. Tucked into woodsy canyons, these eateries (listed west to east) serve bunch and other meals alfresco. Reserve, unless noted.

Inn of the Seventh Ray (8), 128 Old topanga Canyon Road: (213) 455-1311. Patios line creek bank. No reservations for Sunday brunch ($5 to $10) or Monday through Saturday lunch. Dinner daily.

Discovery Inn (9), 156 S. Topanga Canyon Boulevard; (213) 455-3125. Brick patios outside cottage restaurant. Weekend brunch ($5 to $8). Dinner daily except Mondays.

Bel-Air Hotel (27), 701 Stone Canyon Road; (213) 472-1211. Lushly landscaped dining patio. Weekend brunch $13 to $16. Daily breakfast, dinner; lunch weekdays.

Cafe Four Oaks (26), 2181 Beverly Glen Boulevard; (213) 474-9317. Rambling house-turned-restaurant with veranda, patio. Sunday brunch $14; no reservations Dinner served Wednesdays through Saturdays.

Rising at L.A.'s back door, the San Gabriel Mountains offer an escape from summer heat and smog. In Angeles National Forest's high country (elevations above 5,000 feet), temperatures are sometimes 15[deg.] cooler thant those below. Hikers can enjoy sweet-smelling conifers and sweeping views.

Remember: these aren't city parks but wild mountains: come prepared with water, sturdy shoes, jacket, and maps. A brochure outlines 22 high-country hikes; single-hike leaflets give more detail. For free copies and a forest map ($1), write to Angeles National Forest, 150 S. Los Robles Ave., Suite 300, Pasadena 91101; (818) 577-0050.

We suggest two bases for exploring. Chilao (136), 5,300 feet. from 1-210 at La Canada Flintridge, take Angeles Crest Highway (State 2) 25 miles northeast to Chilao visitor center (displays, interpretive activities), picnic areas, campgrounds, and three self-guided natural history trails. Nearby are three longer hikes:

To Devil's Peak--1-1/2 miles round trip (250-foot elevation gain) with views into rugged San Gabriel Wilderness.

To Vetter Mountain--4 miles round trip (400-foot gain) to fire lookout with 360[deg.] views of 24 named peaks.

To Mount Hillyer--6 miles round trip (1,000-foot gain) through pine forest to views of Tujunga Canyon, other peaks.

Crystal Lake (138), 5,800 feet. from 1-210 at Azusa, take State Highway 39 about 30 miles north to Crystal Lake Recreation Area, with picnicking, camping, three self-guided nature trails. Two hikes:

To Mount Islip--9 miles round trip (2,200-foot gain), through conifers, past little springs, to views of desert and valley.

To south Mount Hawkins--10 miles round trip (2,800-foot gain) through forest to views of San Gabriel Canyon's north and east forks, and Mount Baldy. Rolling tours of old landmarks, new museums

Riding the open-top double-decker buses of Hollywood Fantasy Tours (61), you overlook the streets and landmarks where Hollywood's realities spawned its myths. On a 2-hour, 17-mile ride, you guide's lively commentary helps you separate fact from fiction (yes, the light atop Capitol Records does blink out "Hollywood" in Morse code).

This summe, HFT buses will also shuttle among a handful of new museums and exhibits expected to open. Tours and the shuttle service leave from 1721 N. Highland Avenue. (All-day parking costs $3.)

On the city tour, you'll see how stage-set design crept out to the sidewalk to influence architecture, as in the Chinese and Egyptian theaters. You roll on past the Brown Derby restaurant (Clark Gable proposed to Carole Lombard in booth 54).

Other landmarks include A&M Records, formerly Charlie Chaplin Studios (City Lights and Modern Times were filmed here), and the Studio Club, Mrs, Cecil B. de Mille's home for such aspiring young actresses as Marilyn Monroe. You'll pass home base for many current television shows: Paramount Studios, Sunset Gower Independent Studios, and Warner Hollywood Studios.

City tours depart five times daily in summer. Call (213) 469-8184 to reserve; $9.50 for adults, $5 for ages 5 through 12.

Here are highlights of this summer's expected new attraction to be served by shuttle. HFT plans to sell shuttle tickets that include admission to your choice of one or all new exhibits; prices will depend on admission fees set by the museums. Shuttles will operate from 9 to 5 daily.

The Hollywood Museum (7051 Hollywood Boulevard; 213/465-3773) will chronicle 75 years of movie-making, with original props, memorabilia, and such famous costumes as those worn by Vivian Leigh and clark Gable in Gone With the Wind. Hours will be 9 to 9 daily; admission is $5 for adults, $2.50 for children under 12.

The Museum of Rock Art (6834 Hollywood Boulevard; 213/463-8979) will be devoted to rock music history and graphics. Open 10 A.M. to midnight daily; $4.50 for adults.

The Hollywood Studio Museum (on N. Highland Avenue, across from Hollywood Bowl; 213/874-2276) occupies the restored barn in which C.B. de Mille filmed Hollywood's first feature-length movie: The Squaw Man in 1913. Memorabilia and video presentations are devoted to the silent-film era. Call for hours, admission. Going on location to watch the film-makers at work

If cameras are rolling around L.A., a service named Hollywood on Location (56) can tell you where and when. Each weekday, the firm assembles a list of television and movie production companies shooting in publicly accessible places.

For $19, you get a self-guiding tour packet, with names of 15 to 20 productions, shooting locales and times, names of stars (they may not be involved in every shoot), and type of action (exterior dialogue, drive-away, car chase). You receive a road map, detail maps to each shoot, suggestions for on-location etiquette. You drive where you please at your own pace. Call the office at (213) 659-9165 to reserve a packet. It will be ready to pick up at 9:30 A.M. on the appropriate day. The office, at 8644 Wilshire Boulevard in Beverly Hills, is generally open 9 to 5. To Universal City for the grand tour of Universal Studios

In Hollywood's fledgling years, Carl Laemmle started shooting films on a converted chicken ranch. He invited visitors to watch, then buy eggs on their way out. Nearly 70 years later, the ranch land is home to Universal Studios (49), the world's largest movie and television production facility. Today's visitors leave with an education gleaned from a 2-1/2-hour behind-the-scenes tour and five live shows. Allow about 5 hours to see it all.

The guided tram tour carries you through much of the 420 acres. On the front lot, you see the massive sound stages and departments for special effects, make-up, wardrobe, music, and more.

Trundling among the back lot's 561 buildings, you'll see the New York streets of "Kojak," Western sets in use since Tom Mix's day, and the home of "Leave it to Beaver" Cleaver. To experience special effects, tram riders survive a "Battlestar Galactica" skirmish, brave a shark attack, and careen through an avalanche.

At tour's end, the shows await. This summer introduces the A-Team Live Action Stunt Show, a 20-minute arena performance of stunts and effects, in which vans leap, jeeps blow up, drivers fly through the air. Another show, inspired by Conan the Barbarian, involves complex effects achieved before only by film trickery, including a fire-breathing dragon and laser fights.

Summer hours are 9 A.M. to 10 P.M. daily (last admittance, 5 P.M.); (818) 508-9600. Admission costs $11.50 for adults, $9 for seniors, $8.50 for ages 3 through 11. Parking costs $1.50. From the Hollywood Freeway (U.S. 101), exit on Lankershim Boulevard and follow the signs. Movie houses revive the cinematic past

Film fare at Los Angeles area theaters stretches far beyond first runs. The following 12 show mainly revivals--classics of the past, presented singly or severally in "festivals" devoted to the works of a particular actor, director, foreign country, or genre.

Some theaters are well kept up, even artfully restored; some are down-at-the-heels. Call for a recorded message announcing the week's offerings and times. At some, you can pick up schedules. Ticket prices usually run $2 to $4. Art Theater (122), 2025 E. Fourth Street, Long Beach; (213) 438-5435. Baronet Theater (5), 6937 Topanga Canyon Boulevard, Canoga Park; (818) 340-7434. Beverly Cinema (68), 7165 beverly Boulevard, L.A.; (213) 938-4038. Bijou Twin Cinema (99), 1233 Hermosa Avenue, Hermosa Beach; (213) 376-9988. El Rey Theater (70), 5517 Wilshire Boulevard, L.A.; (213) 931-1513. Four Star Theatre (71), 5112 Wilshire Boulevard, L.A.; (213) 936-3533. Fox International (36), 620 Lincoln Boulevard, Venice; (213) 396-4215. Video tapes of revival films for sale or rent. Nuart Theater (30), 11272 Santa Monica Boulevard, West L.A.; (213) 478-6379, 479-5269. Go early; frequently standing room only. Old Town Music Hall (96), 140 Richmond Street, El Segundo; (213) 322-2592. Specialty is silent films, with organist on the Wurlitzer (audience sing-alongs often precede film). Reservations sometimes required. Rialto Theater (131), 1023 Fair Oaks Avenue, South Pasadena; (818) 799-9567. Restored 1925 theater. Rocky Horror Picture Show runs every Saturday at midnight. Vagabond Theater (82), 2509 Wilshire Boulevard, L.A.; (213) 387-2171. Occasional opera film series. Vista Theater (75), 4473 Sunset Drive, Hollywood; (213) 660-6639. Restored 1923 theater sometimes screens silent films, with organ accompaniment.

Hiking up for ocean views

Even on the hottest days, onshore breezes that lick the south face of the Santa Monica Mountains can cool hikers in search of sweeping coastal views. Several trails in the Santa Monica Mountains National Recreation Area (SMMNRA) lead to vistas offering clear-day views out to the Channel Islands. These hiking trail options are easily combined with picnicking or seashore exploring.

Leo Carrillo State Beach (1), off Pacific Coast Highway (State 1). A few trails afford ocean views; a map from the ranger shows choices. A 1-1/2-mile loop climbs through coastal sage scrub on the east side of camping areas, switchbacking to a fork; the uphill trail continues to an ocean-bluff lookout. West of Mulholland Highway, the Yellow Hill Fire Road offers a more rugged 6-mile hike (1,600-foot gain) to the NRA's best views of four, sometimes five, Channel Islands. Park is open 8 to dusk; parking $3; tent and RV camping $8.

Charmlee Regional Park (2), 4-1/2 miles up Encinal Canyon Road from State 1. Beyond an oak-shaded picnic area, a network of trails and fire roads meanders coastward across summer-gold meadows to bluffs 1/4 mile above the ocean. This is the premier kite-flying spot in the NRA. From rises, you look down on the spur of Point Dume. The park is open dawn to dusk.

Will Rogers State Historic Park (13), at 14253 Sunset Boulevard in Pacific Palisades. Get a trail map at the ranger station. Inspiration Point Trail, an easy 2-mile round trip, leads up to a lookout with views of Santa Monica Bay. A moderately strenuous 6-mile round-trip hike bypasses the spur to the lookout and climbs a ridgeline between Rustic and Rivas canyons. Ocean views are spectacular as you hike to a clearing (good for a picnic); loop south along Rivas' slope to return. Park hours are 8 to 5; parking $1.50.

Try your hand at a new Olympic sport?

On protected bays and fresh-water lakes, several shops give lessons in boardsailing--one of the new Olympic sports. Most start you on a beach simulator, then ease you into the water on a sailboard. One- or two-day group lessons--3 to 6 hours of instruction and all equipment--cost $7 to $13 an hour.

Here are six of the safest places to learn and nearby shops to call; unless noted otherwise, telephone numbers are in area code 213.

BAYS. Marina del Rey (41). La Planche, 392-5254, 396-9375; Sandy's Ski and Sport, 822-9203; Windsurfing West, 821-5501. Cabrillo Beach (116). Dive 'N Surf, 372-8423; Sailboards West, 548-3537; South Bay Windsurfing, 519-1159. Alamitos Bay (124). Long Beach Windsurf Center, 433-1014; Matlack Windsurfing, 430-3000.

LAKES. Castaic Lake (17), about 18 miles northwest of San Fernando. Valley Sailboards, 709-0955; Windsports, 988-0111; Windy Sails, 365-4531. Santa Fe Flood Control Basin (137). Pacific Surf and Ski, 696-1721. Frank G. Bonelli Regional Park (143). Sarcas Sea and Sport, (714) 596-4946.

Sea-life encounters on Palos Verdes

Interrupting the sandy expanse of Los Angeles' beachfront is a jut of rocky coast. Wave-carved coves nick the cliffs of the Palos Verdes Peninsula. If you're interested in sea life, the peninsula's the place to go.

Cabrillo Marine Museum (112), at Cabrillo Beach in San Pedro, presents microcosms of life in mud flats, kelp beds, and open sea. Activities include free guided tidepool walks and preparation for a grunion run. This summer's Sea Search family workshops will cover tidepool life, beach burrowers, bioluminescence. Cost is $5 to $15 per person; to reserve, call (213) 548-7562 weekdays.

The museum is at 3720 Stephen White Drive. Summer hours are 10 to 5 Tuesdays through Sundays; free admission; $3 parking.

Marineland (108) sits on a promontory above the only natural colony of wild sea lions on the Southern California mainland. In the park, you can get close to ocean inhabitants. Feed and play ball with dolphins; listen to their chatter on new hydrophones. Snorkel over a manmade reef with 1,000 tropical fish (suit and gear supplied), $4 extra charge. Among the many performers are Orky and Corky, world's oldest killer whales in captivity.

The park, at 6610 Palos Verdes Drive S., is open 10 to 7 daily through Labor Day; call (213) 541-5663 for winter hours. Admission is $9.50 for adults, $6.85 ages 3 through 11.

Point Vicente Interpretive Center (106) opened in May on a World War II gunnery range. Exhibits and displays focus on the peninsula and environs: terrace formation, cliff erosion, Portuguese Bend slide area, tidepool ecology, kelp beds, the California gray whale, famous peninsula shipwrecks. can take a self-guided or docent-6ed

You can take a self-guided or docent-led tour. Outside, walkways lead to an overlook. The center, at 31501 Palos Verdes Drive W., is open weekdays 1 to 7, weekends 10 to 7. Admission is 50 cents for adults, 25 cents for children.

Tidepools to explore. Check tide tables for times of low or "minus" tides (infrequent in summer), wear rubber-soled shoes, and clamber carefully to the tidepools in one of these areas. Flat Rock Point (103): Park on Paseo del Mar, off southbound Palos Verdes Drive W. (between Malaga and Bluff coves). Point Vicente Public Fishing Access (107): park in turnout off eastbound Palos Verdes Drive S. (between Point Vicente and Marineland). Abalone Cove County Beach (109): Park in county lot ($3) on eastbound Palos Verdes Drive S., just west of Wayfarers Chapel. Royal Palms State Beach/White Point (110): park in county lot ($3) off Paseo del Mar, just east of Western Avenue's end. Point Fermin Marine Refuge (111): walk

Fish for a day . . . by boat, from a pier

Subtropical waters along Southern California's coast carry a bountiful variety of fish. Offshore, the big summer prizes--barracuda, bonito, halibut, and sea bass--join year-round rockfish. From piers, look for corbina, croaker, surfperch.

On party boats, barges, and private piers, anglers ages 16 and over must hold a California fishing license (for sale in bait shops). On public piers, no license is required. Expect to pay for parking. All numbers are area code 213.

PARTY BOATS. Half-day outings (4 to 5 hours) cost $12 to $15; 8- to 12-hour trips cost $18 to $20, up to 18 hours (usually to Channel Islands) to $37. Prices include bait. Gear rents for $4 to $7. Call to reserve. Malibu. Malibu Pier Sportfishing (3), 23000 Pacific Coast Highway; 456-8030. Marina del Rey. Captain Frenchy's (40), 13759 Fiji Way; 822-3625. Redondo Beach. Redondo Sportfishing (101), 233 N. Harbor Drive; 372-2111; ask about barge fishing. San Pedro. H&M Landing (113), 245 N. Gaffey Street; 547-5405. Ports O' Call Sportfishing (114), Berth 79, Ports O' Call Village; 547-9916. Twenty-second Street Landing (115), 141 W. 22nd; 832-8304. Long Beach. Queen's Wharf Sportfishing (120), 555 Pico Avenue; 432-8993. Belmont Pier Sportfishing (123), Ocean Boulevard at 39th Place; 434-6781; Ask about barge.

PIERS. They're a good place for beginning anglers. Many sell bait; several rent tackle. Malibu (3): public pier at 23000 Pacific Coast Highway; storm-damaged, expected to reopen in June. Open 6 A.M. to sunset; bait and tackle shop; 456-8112. Santa Monica (16): public pier at end of Colorado Avenue; badly storm-damaged. Open 24 hours, lighted; buy bait at fish market; 458-8694. Venice (37): public pier at end of Washington Street. Open 24 hours, lighted; bait and tackle; 821-1887. Marina del Rey (40): small private dock at Fisherman's Village on Fiji Way; $2 for 5 hours. Open 6 A.M. to 8 P.M.; 822-3625. Manhattan Beach (98): public pier at end of Manhattan Beach Boulevard. Open 24 hours, lighted. Hermosa Beach (100): public pier at end of Pier Avenue. Open 24 hours, lighted; bait and tackle; 372-2124. Redondo Beach (101): Redondo Sportfishing Pier, south end of King Harbor. Open 24 hours, lighted; bait and tackle; 772-2064, 372-2111. San Pedro (117): public pier at Cabrillo Beach, off end of Stephen White Drive. Open 6 A.M. to 11 P.M., lighted; bait and tackle shop on beach; 832-0649. Long Beach (123): public Belmont Pier off Ocean Boulevard at 39th Place. Open 5 A.M. to 10 P.M., lighted; bait and tackle; 434-6781.

Freeway ecology and survival

So integral are freeways to life in L.A. that British urban observer Reyner Banham deemed them a distinct ecological region. They even have their own lingo. You'll hear it on some 30 radio stations that air regular traffic reports.

Freeway shorthand. Several freeways change names and/or numbers; locals use the names. Some spots, like the "four-level" above, have acquired nicknames. I-5: Golden State, Santa Ana freeways. I-10: Santa Monica, San Bernardino freeways. I-110 (also signed State 11 and State 110): Harbor and Pasadena freeways. Ventura Freeway: U.S. 101, State 134. Hollywood Freeway: State 170, then U.S. 101. East L.A. interchange: where U.S. 101, I-5, and I-10 meet, east of L.A. River. Forty-two-mile loop: triangle formed by I-10, I-405, I-110, where roadbed sensors monitor traffic speeds. Sepulveda Pass: where I-405 crosses the Santa Monica Mountains. South Bay Curve: the curve of I-405 between Rosecrans Avenue and I-110.

Traffic talk. These are common terms. Gawkers' block: a slow-down caused by drivers peering at whatever was slowing traffic in the first place. Lane #1: the fast lane; lanes are numbered outward from center divider. Sigalert: notice from the California Highway Patrol of a major "unplanned event"; named after Loyd Sigmon, who invented the transmitting device. Traffic advisory: notice of a planned disruption, such as road repair. Traffic break: when CHP vehicles slow traffic, so obstructions can be removed. Korean dining, shopping

Chinatown and Little Tokyo are compact districts, easy to explore on foot. Koreatown (83) is more elusive. Its shopkeepers, restaurateurs, and other businessmen have cleaned up, remodeled, and rebuilt this district, west of downtown. Most noticeable are the low-rise mini-malls, with bold signs in Korean and English.

Restaurants. Korean food resemles Chinese and Japanese but tends to be heartier. It's fun to order a meal to cook on tabletop grills--beef (bulgogi), ribs (kalbi), chicken, even tripe. Beware of the spicy kim chee. Prices are inexpensive to moderate. Most serve lunch and dinner daily.

Dong Il Jang, 3455 W. Eighth Street (shown on page 109); Ho-Ban, 1040 S. Western Avenue; Kang Suhr, 3332 W. Olympic Boulevard; Se-Jong, 2641 W. Olympic; VIP Palace, 3014 W. Olympics; Woo Lae Oak of Seoul, moving to 623 S. Western Avenue.

Markets. Worth a browse are Olympic Market, 3104 W. Olympic; and East-West Food Center, 3300 W. Eighth Street.

Shops, galleries. Quality crafts include celadon ceramics, lacquered trays, chests inlaid with mother-of-pearl, at prices up to hundreds of dollars. Items are new (export of antiques from Korea is illegal). Look for yoot ($4), a wooden game of strategy and chance. Most shops are closed Sundays.

On W. Olympic: Koreana Gifts (2925), Nasung Stores (3072, and at 975 S. Vermont), Sin Sae Kae (3150). For art, try Sam Il Dang, 3447 W. Eighth.

Small-town main streets to stroll

The impression that Los Angeles is a faceless sprawl ignores facts. The city started as a mass of small communities that gradually fused. A few of these jealously preserve "Main Streets" with a small-town feeling. For decades, they've been neighborhood shopping districts. They'e places where you'll still find a sidewalk bench, a grocer who knows locals by name, and a parking space.

Pacific Palisades (12). The village area fans out from the intersection of Sunset Boulevard and Swarthmore Avenue. Eateries offer pastries and coffee to gourmet dinners; shops sell antiques and linens to plants.

Larchmont Village (65). Larchmont Boulevard, just north and south of Beverly Boulevard, draws Hancock Park residents. You'll find an old-time awninged department store, a soda fountain, shops selling antique books to hardware. A few establishments offer outdoor dining.

Claremont Village (142). This is downtown for the college town. Explore along Yale and Harvard avenues, north of First Street. There are a few choices for casual outdoor dining. Among the shops, one specializes in instruments for folk music.

The best way to tour L.A.'s beaches is on two wheels. And the best time is early morning or evening, when the South Bay Bicycle Trial (102) is least crowded. Stretching from Santa Monica, near the foot of California Avenue, to the foot of the bluffs at Palos Verdes, the paved route measures 19 miles. Winter storms in 1983 damaged a few parts; repairs are expected to be done by July 1. We list year-round beachside bike rental shops. (Many others crop up in summer quarters.) You can get a free bike trial map from the Bicycle Coordinator, County Road Dept., Box 4389, L.A. 90051. As you pedal south, it's clear sailing from Santa Monica State Beach, under the pier and past Venice, with its bizarre bazaar of street vendors entertainers. At the Venice Pier, you cut inland on Washington Street bike lanes, skirt Marina del Rey on off-street paths along Admiralty Way to Fiji Way, then follow Fiji (no bike lanes) past Fisherman's Village. The path regains the water on a narrow finger of land between the main channel and Ballona Creek (great boat-watching). After crossing a small bridge, you're back on the beach at Playa del Rey.

The next stretch seems lonelier, leading under the LAX flight path and past big oil refineries and power plants of El Segundo. Watch for hang gliders.

South of Rosecrans Avenue, you hit beach-town row: Manhattan Beach, Hermosa Beach, Redondo Beach, where you wheel past king Harbor on Harbor Drive sidewalk or curbside lanes. The path continues through the harbor's commercial area until rejoining the beach at the Monstad Pier. From there to the end at Torrance is usually the least crowded stretch. Bike rental firms. Three-speeds cost $2 to $3 an hour; kids' bikes $2 to $3 an hour, $6 all day. Area code is 213. We list summer hours. Santa Monica. Sea Mist Rentals, 1619 Ocean Front Walk; 395-7016; open 10 to 6 weekdays, 9 to 7 weekends. Venice. Robbie's Bike & Skate Rentals, three stands, at ends of Rose Avenue, Venice Boulevard, Washington Street; 306-3332; noon to 5 weekdays, 10 to 6 weekends. Venice Pier Bike Shop, 21 Washington Street; 823-1528; 9 A.M. to dusk. Playa del Rey. The Handlebar Stop, 6935 Pacific Avenue; 821-5898; 10 to 5 weekdays, 10 to 6 weekends. Hermosa Beach. Hermosa Cyclery, 20 13th Street; 374-7816; 8 to 8 daily. Redondo Beach. Bicycle Center, 1206 S. Pacific Coast Highway; 316-5177; 9 to 6 daily, except noon to 4 Sundays.

Parading 26 miles from downtown to the sea, Wilshire Boulevard (15) unfolds a beginner's tour: a slice of the true downtown (not one of those regional pretenders), a trio of top museums, Beverly Hills, UCLA, and the beach, RTD's #20 Local and #320 Limited buses ply Wilshire end to end. Fare is 50 cents. Locals run every 10 to 15 minutes, Limited every 4 minutes. Avoid rush hours; 6 to 9 A.M. and 3:45 to 6:15 P.M.

We list highlights, from downtown West. Downtown. The Los Angeles Conservancy's 2-hour Satruday morning walks offer the best historical introduction. Docents lead three $5 tours: Pershing Square landmarks (A on map above), including the Biltmore Hotel, Oviatt Building at 617 S. Olive Street, and Bradbury Building at 304 S. Broadway. Broadway theater district (B): grand old movie palaces in an area that now teems with Spanish-speaking Angelenos. Spring Street financial district (C). To reserve, call (213) 623-2489. Notice Pershing Square's Olympic spruceup: landscaping, vendors, entertainment, art. South of the square, on Hill Street, is the wholesale jewelry district (public welcome).

On your own, walk north on Flower Street to Bunker Hill (D): skyscrapers with noteworthy art inside and out. Visit ARCO Plaza, the Wells Fargo Building, Crocker Center, Security Pacific Plaza.

MacArthur Park area. This is a heavily Hispanic and Asian neighborhood. You can usually rent paddle boats on the park lake (E). Langer's Delicatessen (F), 704 S. Alvarado Street, is renowned for its pastrami sandwiches. Otis Art Institute of the Parsons School of Design (G), at 2401 Wishire, has three galleries. La Fonda Mexican restaurant (H), at 2501, has a lauded mariachi group nightly (380-5055).

Bullocks Wilshire (I), at 3050, is a gem of 1920s zigzag moderne architecture.

Hancock Park. Detour north between Irving Boulevard and Highland Avenue to see one of the finest residential areas.

The George C. Page Museum of La Brea Discoveries (J), at 5801, interprets thetar pits from prehistoric times--when the gooey stuff entrapped animals--to their reconstructed skeletons you see now.

You can usually watch scientists at work. Hours are 10 to 5 Tuesdays through Sundays. Admission is $1.50.

Los Angeles County Museum of Art (K), at 5905, recently added a two-story wing to give more space for collections that range from Indian and Tibetan antiquities to silver, from Old Masters to American works. A new building for contemporary art is underway.

This summer's biggest show will be 125 French Impressionist masterpieces. For recorded information on reserving a ticket ($4), call 857-6373. Normal museum hours are 10 to 5 Tuesdays through Fridays, 10 to 6 weekends. Admission is $1.

Craft and Folk ARt Museum (L), at 5814, mounts seeral exhibitions each year. Don't miss the ground-floor shop for folk art and carfts. Gallery hours are 11 to 5 Tuesdays through Sundays, to 8 P.M. Fridays. Donations appreciated.

Beverly Hills. The world's glitterati flock to Rodeo Drive and adjacent streets in the Golden Triangle bounded by Wilshire, Little Santa Monica Boulevard, and Rexford Drive. Along Wilshire are the grand emporiums (Gump's to Neiman-Marcus) and the safety Beverly Wilshire Hotel (M).

Newest addition on Rodeo is the Rodeo Collection (N), a deluxe complex of foreign designer shops. Try Pastel, an indoor-outdoor cafe, where you can splurge on a pastry with tea. Try Nipper's if all you need on a menu is champagne.

One block east, on Beverly Drive (O), stop in at Bravo Fono (375) for walk-away gelato and chocolate truffles; DDL Foodshow (244), a boutique market; Nate 'N' Al's (414), where the famous nosh.

At Wilshire and Santa Monica, the Wilshire Fountain (P) has been spouting water colored by synchronized lights since 1931. Restoration is underway.

Westwood. Westwood Boulevard is the main artery of Westwood Village (Q). This will be a big center for Olympic activity this summer, so unless you'll be attending an event, better put off a visit until fall. On Fridays (6:30 P.M. to 1:30 A.M) and Saturdays (11 A.M. to 1:30 A.M.), park at the Federal Building (Wilshire and Veteran Avenue) and take the #605 shuttle (25 cents) to stops in the village and at UCLA.

Westwood is famous for its first-run movie theaters (R)--mainly on Broxton, Gayley, and Weyburn avenues. Also, see what's playing at the Westwood Playhouse (S), 10886 Le Conte Avenue; 477-2424.

On the UCLA campus, two gardens offer quiet. The Mildred E. Mathias Botanical Gardens (T), Le Conte and Hilgard avenues, comprise 8 acres of native and exotic species. Hours are 8 to 5 weekdays, to 4 weekends; free.

The 4-acre Franklin Murphy Sculpture Gardens (1) blend landscaping with 20th-century sculpture in the heart of campus.

Tucked in Haines Hall (V), part of the original 1929 quad, the Museum of Cultural History displays ethnic artifacts. Hours are noon to 5 Wednesdays through Sundays.

Santa Monica. Wilshire runs out at Ocean Avenue and Palisades Park (W). Enjoy this sea-bluff scene from outdoor Cafe Casino at Ocean and Arizona avenues.

California Avenue cuts down the cliff to the coast and miles of beach (X). Colorado Avenue leads onto the famous Santa Monica Pier (Y), built in 1909 and storm-damaged in the winter of 1983. The 56-horse carousel is restored, but much more work is needed.

Crannies of Santa Monica enjoy a British presence. Two pubs on Santa Monica boulevard (Z) offer fish and chips, and a round of darts to finish a day: Ye Olde King's Head (116) and King George V (623).

Coachmen riding shotgun in a giant mural watch over the new Wells fargo History Museum (90). A thousand artifacts, documents and other items relating to California's gold rush era add up to the best family attraction among Los Angeles' downtown skyscrapers.

Center stage goes to an original 19th-century Concord coach, parked atop a replica of pine-log corduroy road. Nearby exhibits display coachmakers' tools.

In a section devoted to mining history, you'll see specimens of gold quartz from the Mother Lode, a 2-pound nugget, an ore cart, and tools. A reconstructed 1860s Wells Fargo office includes the all-important scales. A sturdy turn-of-the-century safe protected the bounty of the Yellow Aster Mine in Randsburg; from its veins came some of the wealth that built L.A.

Original 1835 Spanish-language documents, lithographed maps, and photographs illustrate the city's early days. Movie posters, production stills, and props trace. Wells Fargo's role in Hollywood history. A changing exhibit area currently displays 50 watercolors, etchings, and sketches of Old West subjects from the bank's permanent collection.

Whe Rudyard Kipling wrote "such gardens are not made / By singing:--'Oh, how beatiful!' and sitting in the shade," he might have been prodding proper gardens. Even in Southern California's benign climate, they would not exist but for determined creators and years of loving labor. Here are seven of the best.

Descanso Gardens (44), 1418 Descanso Drive, La Canada Flintridge; (818) 790-5571. Manchester Boddy maintained a forest feeling in planting his 190 oak-strewn acres, which now include the world's greatest collection of camellia varieties, bird ponds, and rose gardens with blushes arranged historically. A rambling tea pavilion serves snacks. Open 9 to 4:30 daily; $1.50.

Huntington Library, Art Gallery, and Botanical Gardens (133), 1151 Oxford Road, San Mariano; (818) 405-2100. Besides planting California's first avocado grove, Henry Huntington began a grand 130-acre landscape. Today you stroll a palm garden, camellia and rose gardens, bonsai court, jungle plantings, and the world's largest outdoor collecion of cactus and succulents. A garden restaurant serves light fare. Open 1 to 4:30 Tuesday through Sundays (reserve for Sunday visits); free admission; parking donation.

J. Paul Getty Museum (10), 17985 Pacific Coast Highway, Malibu; (213) 459-8402. In re-creating a Roman villa to house his art collection, Getty also mandated historically accurate gardens. Formal plantings surround courtyard pools and fountains, and extensive herb beds reflect Roman usage. A garden tea room serves refreshments. Open 10 to 5 Tuesdays through Sundays; free. Call to reserve parking; ask about summer shuttles (fee).

Los Angeles State and County Arboretum (135), 301 N. Baldwind Avenue, Arcadia; (818) 446-8257. "Lucky" Baldwin's 127 acres of Rancho Santa Anita sprouted one of Southern California's first experimental gardens. Today the arboretum offers a world tour: plants from the Mediterranean, South Africa, Australia, South America, other areas. Here, too, are tropical greenhouses, wild peacocks, and an 1885 Queen Anne cottage--backdrop for TV's "Fantasy Island." There are picnic areas, a snack shop. Open 9 to 5 daily; $1.50.

Rancho Santa Ana Botanic Garden (139), 1500 N. College Avenue, Claremont; (714) 626-3922. One of the West's finest native plant gardens, founded in 1927 by Susanna Bixby Bryant, its 83 acres contain manzanita, ceanothus, and other chaparral plants, evergreens, Joshua trees, desert plantings, and a rock garden. Open 8 to 5 daily; free.

Self-Realization Fellowship Lake Shrine (11), 17190 Sunset Boulevard, Pacific Palisaded; (213) 454-4114. An associate of Mahatma Gandhi developed 10 acres of a former movie set into meditation gardens. Paths lead through flowering vegetation, past waterfalls, to arbored overlooks beside a lake with swans. Open 10 to 5 Tuesdays through Sundays; free.

South Coast Botanic Garden (104), 26300 Crenshaw boulevard, Palos Verdes; (213) 377-0468. These 187 acres were created by volunteers and local officials to reclaim a waste dump. Plantings were laid out according to native geographical region--from Mexico to Asia to Africa. You'll see vegetables, too. Alake hosts migrating and resident birds. Open 9 to 5 daily; $1.50. Commercial heart of Los Angeles' community of more than 15,000 Indians is a few-block stretch of S. Pioneer Boulevard (127), just south of State 91.

Shop offerings are as fascinating as the street scene is nondescript. You'll find saris, groceries, sweets, and Indian cookware. A handful of informal restaurants serves curries, tandoori-style barbecued chicken, and vegetable and lamb dishes.

In the 18400 to 18600 blocks, six shops sell saris ($10 to $400 for 5-1/2 meters). At Bombay Spices (18628), look for many kinds of lentils, teas, spices, and long-grain Basmati rice. At Ambala Sweets (18433), sample pudding-like rus malai, almond- or pistachio-flavored fudge-like burfi, or a snack of spicy-nutty chevda. Over the past few years, art enthuasiasts have happily stepped over railway tracks and ridden freight elevators to visit galleries that set up shop in downtown industrial buildings. And now, two former garages are home to the new Museum of Contemporary Art (88). More precisely, they house the Temporary Contemporary (affectionately known as TC) until formal quarters are completed in 1986.

Here's a look at TC, as well as MONA--the world's first neon-art museum--and a rundown on the "warehouse" galleries.

Temporary Contemporary. Devoted to contemporary art in the broadest terms, from painting and sculpture to performance and experiential pieces, TC opened last fall to international plaudits.

Demonstrating versatile curatorial thinking, as well as flexible use of the 55,000-sqquare-foot space, this summer's major show looks at the automobile's role in culture. The show--July 21 through January 6--will feature 30 cars that best reflect the art mood of their times: Art Nouveau, Ashcan School, Italian Futurism, Dada, Bauhaus, and so on. Some 200 artworks examine the car in the version of architects, painters, sculptors, photographers--from Da Vinci to Dali, Matisse to Man Ray.

Related events include a festival of car films, and free Sunday concours (August 5, September 9, October 7, November 4, December 2), each to feature one type of exotic or specialty car.

The ongoing "In Context" series presents commissioned works by solo artists.

The museum is at 152 N. Central Avenue; (213) 382-6622. Hours are 11 to 8 Wednesdays through Fridays, to 6 other days. Admission is $3, $1.50 for seniors and students. Park in nearby city lots.

Neon art museum. Bursting with brightness, the Museum of Neon Art, of MONA (93), occupies a neat gray warehouse with a neon Mona Lisa on the front. The goal is to preserve and display old neon, electric, and kinetic works, as well as to exhibit contemporary fine-art neon.

Besides examples of vintage electrical advertising art, summer visitors will see the "Neon Jungle" show, with works by 25 artists combining neon with water, rock, other media.

MONA is at 704 Traction Avenue; call (213) 617-1580. Hours are noon to 5 Wednesdays through Saturdays. Admission is $2.50. There's free street parking.

Gallery scene. The following show art in or near reconditioned spaces. Those marked by an asterisk coordinate to open on the second Sunday of each month. A few are open only by appointment; all telephone numbers are area code 213. Here's an idea of what you'll see this summer.

AAA Art/Michael Salerno, 1001 First Street (at Center Street); 620-1897; noon to 5 Tuesdays through Saturdays. Painters, sculptors, photographers with tie-ins to Southern California.

Art Gallery, 320 Crocker Steet; 680-4633; 11 to 5 Tuesdays through Fridays. Abstract fine art by Japanese and Americans; July 21 at 9 P.M., kinetic painting to rock music.

Atelier West, 1308 Factory Place, fifth floor; 627-5210; 11 to 6 Tuesdays through Saturdays. Owner's abstract paintings.

Aztlan Multiple, 1745 E. Seventh Steet; 622-5482; by appointment. Printers of fine-art serigraphy; small showroom of works.

Cirrus Gallery, 542 S. Alameda Street; 680-3473; 11 to 5 Tuesdays through Saturdays. Limited-edition lithographs; sculpture court. Works by 15 Southern CAlifornians.

Couser's Contemporary Art, 849 S. Broadway, 464-9195; by appointment. Acrylic abstract paintings.

*Double Rocking "G", 652 S. Mateo Street; 628-0019; 11 to 4 Tuesdays through Sundays. French abstract painting on doors.

*Downtown Gallery, 560 S. Main Street; 627-0398; noon to 4 Wednesdays through Fridays. Works by downtown L.A. artists.

*Eighth Street GAllery, 606 E. Eighth Street; 623-9581; 11 to 4 Thursday through Saturdays. Juried exhibit of women photographers.

*Factory Place Gallery, 1308 Factory Place; 627-5043; 11 to 6 Tuesdays through Saturdays. Mexican artists.

Future Perfect, 800 Traction Avenue, second floor; 617-7545; by appointment. Paintings and limited-edition serigraphs.

*Gallery 318, 318 Omar Avenue; 617-7370; noon to 5 Wednesdays through Saturdays. Shows of owners' paintings, sculpture.

George J. Doizaki Gallery, Japanese American Cultural and Community Center, 244 S. San Pedro Street, 628-2725; noon to 5 daily except Mondays. Ritual dance masks and robes from Japan's Kasuga Shrine.

Kirk de Gooyer Gallery, 1308 Factory Place; 623-8333; 11 to 5 Tuesdays through Saturdays, 1 to 4 Sundays. Geometric pattern paintings.

*L.A. Artcore, 652 S. Mateo Street; 617-3274; 11 to 4 Tuesdays through Sundays. International and local painters and sculptors.

Living Arts, 2458 E. Hunter Street; 622-7369; by appointment. Fine-art photography; dance subjects during summer.

*Los Angeles Center for Photographic Studies, 814 S. Spring Street, third floor; 623-9410; 11 to 5 Wednesdays through Sundays. American and Swedish photographers.

*Los Angeles Contemporary Exhibitions, 240 S. Broadway; 620-0104; 11 to 5 Wednesdays through Saturdays. Smuggled art by Russian dissidents.

*Neil G. Ovsey Gallery, 705 E. Third Street, third floor; 617-1351; 11 to 5 Tuesdays through Saturdays. New works by established artists, including Ron Cooper, Mary Jones, Eric Orr, Judith Simonian.

Roark Graphic Supplies, 418 Boyd Street, 621-3153; 10 to 6 weekdays, to 5 Saturdays. Graphic supply store gives local artist their first shows.

*Simard Gallery, 323 S. Towne Avenue; 617-3667; noon to 5 Wednesdays through Saturdays. Surreal paintings, pencil still lifes.

*Stella Polaris Gallery, 301 Boyd street; 617-2846; 11 to 5 Tuesdays through Saturdays. Through July 5: abstract paintings, miniature oils. July 14 through August 7: Andy Warhol's new paintings, silk screens of Ingrid Bergman.

*Thinking Eye, 1324 S. Figueroa Street, Suite 311; 748-3411; noon to 2 Thursdays and Fridays, to 5 Saturdays. Paintings.

Woman's Building, 1727 N. Spring Street (north of map); 221-6162; 9 to 5:30 weekdays, 10 to 4 Saturdays. Photography, experimental graphic and performance art.

L.A.'s adobes ... the survivors

Having survived more than a century (or two) of urban encroachment, these missions and adobe houses affirm L.A.'s architectural heritage. Rancheros, padres, and Indins mde the bricks with local soils. We list missions, the adobes, west to east. They're close holidays. Unless noted, admission is free.

Mission San Fernando Rey de Espana (20), 15151 San Fernando Mission Boulevard, Mission Hills; (213) 361-0186. After the 1971 earthquake, this beautiful complex--with California's largest adobe-was rebuilt as a near-replica of the 1797 original. Open 9 to 5 daily; 75 cents.

Mission San Gabriel Arcangel (134), 537 W. Mission Drive, San Gabriel; (213) 282-5191. Founded in 1771; buildings date from early 1800s. Open 9:30 to 4:15 daily; $1.

Leonis Adobe (7), 23537 Calabasas Road, Calabasas; (213) 346-3683. This 1844 adobe was remodeled to Monterey-style in 1879. Open 1 to 4 Wednesday through Sundays; $1 donation.

Vicente de la Osa Adobe (24), 16756 Moorpark Street, Encino; (818) 784-4849. This 1849 house is part of Los Encinos State Historic Park. Open 1 to 4 Wednesday through Sundays; 50 cents.

Andres Pico Adobe (21), 10940 Sepulveda Boulevard, Mission Hills; (818) 365-7810. Oldest adobe house in San Fernando Valley. Open 1 to 4 Wednesdays through Sundays.

Lopez Adobe (19), 1100 Pico Street, San Fernando; (213) 365-9990. After the 1971 quake, it was restored to its original 1882 two-story plan. Open 11 to 3 Wednesdays, 1 to 4 weekends.

Centinela Adobe (95), 7634 Midfield Avenue, Inglewood; (213) 649-6272. Built in 1834, it is one of the best preserved. Open 2 to 4 Wednesdays and Sundays.

Casa Adobe de San Rafael (46), 1330 Dorothy Drive, Glendale; (213) 956-2000. This 1860s house was restored in the 1930s. Open 1 to 4 Wednesdays and Sundays through first week of September.

Avila Adobe (85), 10 Olvera Street, in El Pueblo de Los Angeles State Historic Park; (213) 628-0605. This 1818 adobe is downtown's oldest building. Open 10 to 3 Tuesdays through Fridays, 10 to 4:30 weekends.

Dominguez Adobe (118), 18127 S. Alameda Street, Compton; (213) 631-5981. Seat of the first great California land grant, the house dates from 1826. Open 1 to 4 Tuesdays, Wednesdays, and the second and third Sundays of the month.

Rancho Los Cerritos Adobe (119), 4600 Virginia Road,Long Beach; (213) 424-9423. The two-story 1844 house, restored in the '30s, quarters archives and a small museum. Open 1 to 5 Wednesdays through Sundays.

Rancho Los Alaminos Adobe (126), 6400 Bixby Hill Road, Long Beach; (213) 431-2511. Though the original 1806 house is obscured under later additions, you get a good look at rancho life into the 1900s. Open 1 to 5 Wednesdays through Sundays.

El Molino Viejo (132), 1120 Old Mill Road, San Marino; (213) 449-5450. This 1816 mill is now occupied by the California Historical Society. Open 1 to 4 daily except Mondays.

La Casa Primera de Rancho San Jose (145), 1569 N. Park Avenue, Pomona; (714) 623-2198. First home in the Pomona Valley, it dates to 1837. Open noon to 5 Sundays.

Palomares Adobe (141), 491 E. Arrow Highway, Pomona; (714) 620-2300. Both the 1850 house and gardens have been restored. Open 2 to 5 Tuesdays through Sundays.

Bargains in Beverly Hills?

Shopping Beverly Hills (55) doesn't have to mean just window-shopping. Near stores with you've-got-to-be-kidding prices, others sell at less than retail: by manufacturing their own designs, by importing directly, or by volume sales. These 11 shops welcome browsers. Most are open 10 to 6 Mondays through Saturdays.

Beverly Hills Clearance Center, 450 N. Camden Drive. Marked-down prices on last season's women's shoes from the Right Bank Shoe Company, other Beverly Hills boutiques.

Brussells's Gentlemen's Apparel, 114 S. Beverly Drive. Designer lines: silk ties for $8, dress shirts $16, suits $130 to $340.

Eric Ross, 9636 Brighton Way. Designer-brand menswear to 60 percent off retail.

Gucci on Seven, 211 N, Canon Drive. Last season's items from the Rodeo Drive store: $180 men's loafers for $79, $80 belts for $39. Best savings are in clothes.

In Skin, 350 N. Foothill Road. High-Fashion leather and suede clothes (made on premises) for men and women; prices about half retail. May relocate; call (213) 859-7546.

Malibu Shirt Co., 259 S. Beverly Drive, Suite 302. Men's shirts direct from manufacturers; knit sport shirts $10 to $20. M & J Shoes, 8668 Wilshire Boulevard. Brand-name men's and women's shoes 10 to 50 percent off retail.

M. Frederic & Co., 229-1/2 S. Beverly Drive. Below-retail fashions for young women.

Marvin Hime & Co., 228 S. Beverly Drive. Direct importers of gemstones and precious metals, they produce their own designs. Prices are half retail. Wide selection of men's and women's watches.

Michael's Shoes, 9551 Wilshire Boulevard. Discounter of men's brand-name shoes.

T.J. Maloney, 9534 Brighton Way. Imported Scottish cashmere, hand-knit wool sweaters; 30 to 50 percent savings. Opened nearly two decades ago to serve Gardena's Japanese community, New Meiji Market (97) now caters to Chinese, Filipinos, Koreans, Thais, Vietnamese as well. It's the largest Oriental supermarket in the United States.

Produce ranges from relatively familiar Chinese cabbages and long beans to such exotics as naga imo (like jicama), togan melon for winter melon soup, mitsuba (mild cilantro). Choose among fresh Japanese mushrooms. You'll find dozens of types of sake. Brands of kim chee, rice crakers, and other snacks number in the hundreds. Beef cuts are ready for sukiyaki and teriyaki. Fish--freshly caught or just flown in--offer choices for sashimi. A deli sells meals and snacks to go.

The market is at 1620 W. Redondo Beach Boulevard; (213) 323P7696. Hours are 9 to 9 Mondays through Saturdays, to 8 Sundays.

No other street in Los Angeles draws trend-trackers like Melrose Avenue (66). At restaurants and shops, no matter what their face or wares, you're likely to find the first of its kind, the last, the best, the funkiest, the most, or the only.

Between Santa Monica Boulevard and Hihgland Avenue, some blocks are richer in discoveries than others. This 3-mile stretch can seem bewildering, especially if your time is limited. Basically, the eastern end is more experimental; you'll see people with punk-pink hair, businesses come and go with regularity. The western end gets Chic; here are the famous restaurants and the heart of the design district.

Our map above and list following should help you find the offerings of interest to you. Most shops are closed Sundays. Call restaurants for reservations, prices, dress; telephone numbers are area code 213.

Antique wicker. Lightfoot House (8259); Arthur B. Goode (8532); Hays House (8565); Melrose Antique Wicker (8642).

Argentine cuisine. Gardel's (7963), 655-0891.

Art books. Art and Architecture Books of the Twentieth Century (8373).

Art galleries. Janus Gallery (8000); Bernard Jacobson Gallery (8364); Gemini G.E.L. (8365); Flow Ace Gallery (8373); Feingarten Galleries, Marumo Galerie (8380); Goldfield Galleries (8400); Gallery K (8406); Susan Gersh Gallery (8426); Kurland/Summers Gallery (8742); De Ville Galleries (8751); Theda & Emerson Hall Wildlife Art Gallery (8816); Rosenbaum Fine Art (9003).

California cuisine. Nucleus Nuance (7267), 939-8666; City Cafe (7407 1/2), 658-7495; Trumps (8764), 855-1480.

California pottery. Buddy's (7208).

Casual cafes. Flamingo Cafe, lunch only (7212); I love Juicy, health food (7261); Starlight Cafe, patio (7505); Cafe Melrose (7661); Noura, Middle Eastern (8479); Melting Pot, patio, at La Cienega; Cafe Figaro (9010).

Custom neon. Hollywood Neon (7553).

Defies single category. Koala Blue (7366): an Aussie milk-bar, sidewalk cafe, and shop owned by Olivia Newton-John; beachwear, boomerangs, eucalyptus seeds, toy koala, more. Fred Segal complex (8100): a gadgetique (high-tech pogo sticks, telephones, clocks, and so on): savvy stationery; trendy clothes and travel gear; chocolates and Italian ice cream; patio cafe (653-6918) and gourmet-to-go counter.

Elegant antiques. Around La cienega and Melrose Place, there are 20 shops.

Exotic folk art. Patti's African Art Museum, 607 W. Knoll (just east of Pacific Design Center); Marc II (8747).

Fine pine. On two blocks just west of Fairfax: Artful Dodger Pine Mine (7912); Centuries Past Antiques (7960). West of Crescent Heights Boulevard: Gazebo (8266).

Flowers, plants, baskets. L-Ay]s Exotic Flowers, (7400); Brian Jeffries Design Greenhouse (7556); French Florist (8180).

Forward fashion. For women: Bruce Halperin (7526); Bagz (7965 1/2); Regine (8336); Harari (8463); Laise Adzer (8583); Melons (8739). For men and women: Creme (7428); L.A. Gear (7600); Parachute (8215).

French dining. Moustache Cafe (8155), 651-2111; Le Chardonnay (8284), 655-8880; Ma Maison (8368), 655-1991; Le Restaurant (8475 Melrose Place), 651-5553.

Furniture: art nouveau, deco, '50s. Harvey's (7365); Mike's World Arts (7377); Fat Chance (7716); Jazz (8113)f Phantom (8115); Thanks for the Memories (8319); Rattan Interiors (8443); De Luxe (9005). High-tech. L'Artech (7375); Industrial Revolution (7560); Loup (8454).

Italian food. From Highland to La Brea: Emilio's (6602), 935-4922; Fellini's patio (6810), 936-3100; Intermezzo, patio (6919), 937-2875. West of La Brea: Via Fettuccini, patio (7111), 936-5924; Chianti (7383), 653-8333; Bono, Sonny's place (8478), 651-1842; alberto'> (8826), 278-2770. Japanese bedding. Macrobiotic Connection (7823-5); Cloud Nine (7957). Kitsch collectibles. Chic A boom (6905); Off The Wall Antiques (7325); Fantasies Come True, Dysneyana (7408). Live theater (on the experimental side). Two on one block: The Groundlings (7307), 934-9700; The Met Theatre, 649 N. Poinsettia Place, 931-2067. Theatre Theater (7420), 851-3771; Zephyr Theatre (7456-58), 852-9069; Matrix Theatre (7657), 852-1445; Improvisation Cafe (8162), 651-2583. On Melrose Place: Callboard Theatre (8451), 852-9205. Nuts. Iliffili Gourmet Nuts, roast nuts since 1939 (7461). Old and rare books, prints. Cosmopolitan Book Shop (7007); The Collings Bindery (7513); Pettler & Lieberman (7970); J.S. Edgren, Oriental books (8214); William & Victoria Dailey (8216); Canterbury Book Ship (8344); Elliot M. Katt, performing arts (8570-1/2); Golden Legend, Inc. (8586); Gideon Gallery (8748). One-of-a-kind wearables (and usables). Wild Blue (7220). PAcific Design Center (8687), six floors of interior design showrooms, most open only to the trade. Photography gallery. G. Ray Hawskins (7224). Quilts. Margaret Cavigga (8648). Southeast Asian eateries. Two on one block: Le Duc, Vietnamese (7455), 653-7652; Tommy Tang's, Thai (7473), 651-1810. Southern fare. Teddy's, 8406 Melrose Place, 651-2842. Tile. Country Floors, 8735. Vintage clothing, designer punk. Too many shops to count, clustered between alta Vista and Fairfax. Most famous are Aaardvark's (7579) and Flip (7607). Wrought iron, old and new (streets lamps to bird cages). Murray's Ironworks 8632).
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Date:Jul 1, 1984
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