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Soup or sauce? It surrounds salmon, peas, or chicken.

Soup or sauce? It surrounds salmon, peas, or chicken

What's the difference between soup and asauce? In the case of these three soups, the flavorful "sauce' is actually a light broth that surrounds the focal ingredient of each dish.

One features salmon and another chicken.Both are appealing supper or luncheon main dishes. Hot sauteed salmon fillets, complemented by two kinds of radish and hot wasabi, rest in a mellow sake broth; you could add hot cooked rice, serve rice on the side, or follow soup with a rice or pasta salad.

The child chicken breast is bathed in arefreshing pineapple-cilantro broth; serve with crisp toast or warm tortillas.

In a still lighter "soup,' a mint-and-lemonbroth gently warms tiny peas and tender lettuce leaves. Offer as a first course, or serve for lunch with bread and cheese or thin ham sandwiches.

All three soups go together quickly, buteach has make-ahead possibilities. Two of the lean broth bases need a brief time to steep and capture flavor from the seasonings, but both can be reheated; the broth for the chicken soup needs time to cool before final steps.

Salmon in Sake Broth with Two Radishes

2 tablespoons salad oil

1/2 cup minced shallots or onions

3 cups regular-strength chicken broth

1 1/2 cups sake or regular-strengthchicken broth

1 1/2 tablespoons sugar

1 tablespoon chopped fresh dill (or1 1/2 teaspoons dry dill weed)

2 tablespoons lemon juice

4 salmon fillets (1/3 to 1/2 lb. each),skin and bones removed

1 piece (about 6 oz.) daikon, peeledand finely shredded

4 medium-size red radishes (endstrimmed), finely shredded

Wasabi cones (directions follow)

1 lemon, cut into wedges

Fresh dill sprigs

In a 3- to 4-quart pan, combine 1 tablespoonof the oil and the shallots. Cook, uncovered, on medium heat, stirring often, until shallots are limp, about 7 minutes. Add broth, sake, sugar, and chopped dill. Cover and bring to a boil over high heat; add lemon juice. Reduce heat to low and keep warm up to 30 minutes; if made ahead, let cool, cover, and chill up to 1 day. Reheat to continue.

In a 10- to 12-inch frying pan, warmremaining 1 tablespoon oil on medium-high heat. Add salmon fillets to pan and cook, uncovered, until brown on each side, 5 to 7 minutes total. Cover and cook on medium-low heat until salmon has almost lost its translucency in the thickest part (cut to test), about 2 minutes longer.

Place 1 salmon fillet in each of 4 wide,shallow soup bowls. Equally mound daikon shreds next to fillets; top daikon with red radish shreds. Top each fillet with a wasabi cone; garnish with lemon wedges and dill sprigs. Ladle broth equally around fish. As you eat with fork and spoon, mix wasabi and squeeze lemon juice into broth to taste. Makes 4 servings.

Wasabi cones. Thoroughly mix 2 1/2 tablespoonswasabi powder (Japanese horseradish) with 4 teaspoons water. With your fingers, shape into 4 equal-size cones.

Chilled Chicken in Pineapple Broth

4 1/2 cups regular-strength chicken broth

1/3 cup firmly packed brown sugar

1 tablespoon minced fresh ginger

1 fresh jalapeno or serrano chili,stemmed, seeded, and minced

1 small (3 lb.) pineapple

1/3 cup cilantro sprigs (coriander)

1 1/4 cups lemon or lime juice

6 cold cooked chicken breast halves,skinned and boned

Cilantro sprigs

6 nasturtium blossoms, rinsed, stemstrimmed (optional)

1 lemon, cut into wedges

In a 3- to 4-quart pan over high heat,bring broth, sugar, ginger, and chili to a boil; set aside.

Meanwhile, trim ends off pineapple; alsocut off 3 thin crosswise slices. Peel remaining pineapple and coarsely chop enough fruit to make 3 cups. Whirl fruit with the 1/3 cup cilantro in a food processor or blender until smoothly pureed, about 10 minutes.

Stir puree and lemon juice into chickenbroth; cover and chill until cold, about 2 hours or up to 1 day. Cover pineapple slices and chill, too.

Place 1 piece of chicken in each of 6 wide,shallow soup bowls. Cut pineapple slices into quarters and add to bowls as garnish, along with cilantro sprigs and nasturtiums. Stir broth mixture and ladle around breasts. Offer lemon wedges to season soup to taste. Eat with knife, fork, and spoon. Makes 6 servings.

Peas and Lettuce in Mint Broth

4 cups regular-strength chicken broth

1 1/4 cups firmly packed fresh mintleaves

Strips of yellow peel pared from 1medium-size lemon

2 cups frozen petite peas

1 teaspoon lemon juice

1 tablespoon slivered mint leaves

1 teaspoon shredded lemon peel

4 medium-size butter lettuce leaves,washed and crisped

In a 2- to 3-quart pan over high heat,bring broth, mint leaves, and strips of lemon peel to a boil. Cover, remove from heat, and let stand for mint to flavor broth, about 15 minutes or up to overnight. With a slotted spoon, scoop out mint and discard.

Bring broth to boiling; add peas and stiruntil hot, 1 to 2 minutes. Add lemon juice. Pour broth through a strainer equally into each of 4 wide, shallow bowls. Quickly mix peas with slivered mint and shredded lemon peel. Lay a lettuce leaf in each bowl and spoon pea mixture into leaves, dividing equally. Eat with knife, fork, and spoon. Makes 4 servings.

Photo: Pan-brownedsalmon fillet, in sake broth, is complemented by crisp daikon and radish shreds, lemon, and dill. Approach green mound of hot wasabi (Japanese horseradish) with caution

Photo: Both a soup and a salad, petite peas andlettuce leaves infused with lemon and mint make a handsome first-course dish

Photo: Ladle chilled pineapple-cilantro brotharound cold chicken breast; nasturtium adds peppery bite to luncheon entree
COPYRIGHT 1987 Sunset Publishing Corp.
No portion of this article can be reproduced without the express written permission from the copyright holder.
Copyright 1987 Gale, Cengage Learning. All rights reserved.

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Title Annotation:includes recipes
Date:May 1, 1987
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