Soft tool bag...you sew heavy canvas.
On page 194, we show several types and sizes of commercially available soft tool carriers that will holds anything from nails and screws to drills, small saws, even architectural plans. You can buy them at hardware and boat stores, or you can make the tote pictured here, designed by Gail-kerr of Truckee, California.
To make one, you'll need 7/8 yard of heavy canvas duck (sold in some fabric, awning supply, upholstery, and sail-making shops), a large spool of regular thread, paper for pattern, tailor's chalk, scissors, and pins. You'll also need 7 feet of 1/8-inch nylon cord and two cord locks to fit (sold at mountaineering stores). The project will cost and $5 and take about 3 hours. Preparing the pieces. Working from the diagram, cut out canvas pieces; make the notches 3/8 wide. To hem the top edge of the divider strip, fold under 1/4 inch, then another 1 inch; press and topstitch. Cut the divider into three 1-foot lengths.
Next, cut a 2-1/4-inch center slit in the notched edge of the side piece as shown in the diagram (when the bag is complete, the notches will form another slit for the drawstrings). Overcast the slit's raw edges and the notched ends using a wide zigzag stitch. Fold under and hem the notched edge of the side piece as you did the top edge of the divider, stitching close to the folded edge.
Turn under each long edge of the handle piece 1/2 inch, then fold in half lengthwise. Press and topstitch close to folded edges.
Attach handle to dividers. Fold the handle in half crosswise. Mark the center of the hemmed edge of one divider piece and sandwich it between the raw ends of the handle piece; align the raw ends with the hemline of the divider. Baste.
Sandwich the divider basted to the handle between the two remaining divider pieces; have all hemmed edges facing the same direction. Baste and machine-stitch through all thicknesses at the handle and strengthen the point of attachment with a boxed X as shown in the bottom photograph on page 140. Now stitch a line down the center of the dividers to within 3/8 inch of the bottom edge.
Sew dividers to bottom. Mark one bottom piece with chalk as shown in the diagram. Place it, chalk side up, on top of the other round piece, then stitch them together 3/8 inch from the edge. Using a 3/8-inch seam, pin, baste, and machine-stitch the lower edges of the dividers to the chalk marks.
Attach side piece to bottom. Place one end of the side piece, hemmed side up, against the bottom piece; position so that notched end overlaps one of the radiating stitch lines by 3/8 inch. (This will ensure enough seam allowance when you sew the ends of the side piece together.) The side's long raw edge should touch the circumference of the bottom piece.
Pin the side's long raw edge to the bottom piece, allowing a 3/8-inch seam and keeping the dividers out of the way. Baste and machine-stitch the ends together. Turn the bag right side out.
Stitch dividers to side. Place the bag upright on a table; fold under about 1/2 inch of the raw edge of each divider piece and pin it to the bag side so the top of the divider meets the bottom of the side hem (as pictured at right). Baste. Starting from the hem, topstitch each divider piece to the side.
Finally, feed a 3-1/2-foot length of nylon cord through one slit, around the casing at the top of the bag side, and out the same slit. Feed the second 3-1/2-foot length of cord through the second slit, around the casing, and out the same slit. Slip a cord lock on each pair of cord ends.
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|Date:||Mar 1, 1986|
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