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Say 'ah ...' for relief from sensitive skin: Di-PPG-2 Myreth-10 Adipate provides emollience to the skin, helping to add back what surfactants tend to strip away.

SURFACTANTS are an important ingredient in many personal and home care products. One of their primary functions is as a cleansing agent. Surfactants function by altering the outer surface of fats and oils allowing them to be dispersed into smaller-sized particles that can then be rinsed away. This is how they give cleaning functionality to body washes, shampoos and dishwashing liquids.

This cleansing ability has a dark side. Sometimes surfactants take away too much oil on the skin, leaving it vulnerable to irritation, itchiness and dryness. Additionally, many consumers feel that they have sensitive skin, and that cleansing products exacerbate their sensitivity. The solution to this problem is Di-PPG-2 Myreth-10 Adipate (Cromollient SCE, Croda Inc)

With 100% activity, this unique patented ingredient offers broad compatibility being both "hydroactive" and surfactant-friendly, which makes it ideal for products such as body washes, liquid soaps, facial cleansers, shampoos, dishwashing detergents and hand cleansers. It provides emollience to the skin, helping to add back what surfactants tend to strip away. In addition, Di-PPG-2 Myreth-10 Adipate is clinically shown to significantly reduce surfactant irritation making it ideal for baby products and sensitive skin products in both personal care and home care.

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Clinical Tests

In order to demonstrate its surfactant irritation mitigation benefits, a clinical study, involving four subjects, was conducted to measure the irritation potential of Di-PPG-2 Myreth-10 Adipate versus reagent grade Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, 98% active (SLS) and the ability of Di-PPG-2 Myreth-10 Adipate to decrease the irritation of 1% SLS. Six test sites were chosen on the subjects' inside forearms (the volar region) and treated with each of the following solutions: Distilled deionized (dd) water, 1% SLS in dd water, 100% Di-PPG-2 Myreth-10 Adipate, 1% SLS and 1% Di-PPG-2 Myreth-10 Adipate in dd water, 1% SLS and 5% Di-PPG-2 Myreth-10 Adipate in dd water, and 1% SLS and 10% Di-PPG-2 Myreth-10 Adipate in dd water. The sites were then covered with a patch. After 24 hours, the test area was examined using a Chromameter and a Scanning Laser Doppler Imager. Figure 1 shows that Di-PPG-2 Myreth-10 Adipate is not irritating to the skin by itself, and it provides further evidence that it can mitigate the irritation and inflammation caused by SLS.

Results of the skin care studies showed Di-PPG-2 Myreth-10 Adipate:

* Decreases irritation;

* Helps to maintain foam height and

* Can ameliorate a product's tacky feel when poured from the bottle.

Home Care

There are two primary categories where consumers are in constant contact with surfactants: home care and personal care. In home care, daily use of dishwashing detergents can cause severe skin irritation on hands. A study was conducted to determine the irritation mitigation performance of Di-PPG-2 Myreth-10 Adipate in a leading commercial brand of dishwashing liquid.

Di-PPG-2 Myreth-10 Adipate was added over the top at 1% and 3% to a leading hand dishwashing liquid formulation. Application of the test samples occurred two weeks after samples were mixed to ensure stability with the Di-PPG-2 Myreth-10 Adipate.

Based on the MTT assay, reduction of skin irritation is indicated by an increase in cell viability as compared to a control. It can be clearly seen that even at levels as low as 1%, Di-PPG-2 Myreth-10 Adipate significantly increases the skin cell viability by almost 60%, thus demonstrating significant reduction of skin irritation from the surfactant formulation (Figure 2). As an added bonus, Di-PPG2 Myreth-10 Adipate was also shown not to interfere with the cleansing performance of the dishwashing liquid by means of a Gardner scrubber test run on soiled vinyl tiles. The solutions were added to the tiles and the scrubber was run for two strokes with no soak time. The solution with the Di-PPG-2 Myreth-10 Adipate showed comparable cleaning results to the control solution.

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Another area in home care where consumers are often exposed to surfactants is an area that is gaining increased popularity in today's market: cleansing and disinfecting wipes. To determine if the Di-PPG-2 Myreth-10 Adipate reduces the possible irritation from a disinfectant wipe, it was added to the liquid squeezed from a leading brand disinfectant wipe at 0.5% and 1%. The samples were mixed and tested via the MTT Assay 3 days later. As with the dishwashing liquid, it was clearly shown that Di-PPG-2 Myreth-10 Adipate at levels as low as 0.5% decreases the surfactant irritation in cleansing/disinfecting wipes as demonstrated by an increase in cell viability (Figure 3).

Personal Care

As mentioned earlier, there are two primary categories where consumers are in constant contact with surfactants: home care and personal care. In personal care, surfactants come in contact with the skin at least once per day by means of hand washes, facial cleansers, body washes or shampoos. The preceding information has shown the irritation mitigation performance of Di-PPG-2 Myreth-10 Adipate in standard surfactant systems, but the testing was taken one step further by showing further irritation reduction in an extremely mild system--a leading brand baby shampoo.

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TransEpithelial Penetration (TEP) is a study that provides a method to examine mild surfactant systems and their potential for irritation by investigating the effect on a single layer of cells. For determining the cellular irritation, Marin Darby Canine Kidney (MDCK) cells are cultured under standard conditions. Figure 4 shows the cells prior to experimentation, exhibiting a confluent cell monolayer. The cells were then treated with a solution containing commercially available baby shampoo, in a 1:100 ratio of shampoo to physiological saline, to replicate the typical level experienced by consumers upon application. Figure 5 shows areas of denuded cells providing evidence of fluorescein leakage between the cells, an indicator of irriration.

Based on this TEP model, several studies were conducted to measure the ability of Di-PPG-2 Myreth-10 Adipate to mitigate the irritation of a popular, commercially available baby shampoo. This shampoo, a product marketed as mild and gentle, was tested to ascertain if Di-PPG-2 Myreth-10 Adipate would reduce the percentage of intercellular leakage creating a less irritating (gentler) product. The product was diluted in physiological saline at ratios of 1:50 and 1:100 to represent typical usage dilutions.

The results showed that even in the mildest systems, Di-PPG-2 Myreth-10 Adipate can demonstrate substantial benefits by further reducing the irritation potential of gentle surfactants.

In order to provide a "total package" for the consumer, aesthetic benefits of the ingredient were determined using a consumer perception blind study. In this study, panelists were asked to evaluate a personal cleanser containing 3% Di-PPG-2 Myreth-10 Adipate for product feel during lathering and for after-feel on drying.

The results showed an overwhelming preference (by 75%) in both wet and dry feel for the body wash containing Di-PPG-2 Myreth-10 Adipate as compared to a prototype using a comparable emollient.

In addition, Di-PPG-2 Myreth-10 Adipate was found to provide excellent hair as well as skin benefits. A clinical study was done to demonstrate this ester's capabilities to reduce the wet combing forces of virgin hair tresses. The total combing work and peak force of tresses treated with a shampoo containing Di-PPG-2 Myreth-10 Adipate were evaluated against those treated with a shampoo containing Polyquaternium-10. The values given are percent reductions of the combing force as compared to a control.

The results showed a dramatic improvement in wet combing for DIPPG-2 Myreth-10 Adipate tresses as compared to the Polyquaternium-10 tresses as demonstrated by a decrease in peak combing force by greater than 50%.

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The Market

But how does all this information fit within the market place? Within the past year, over 1000 new personal and home care products worldwide have been launched touting the claims of "gentle," "mild" or "for sensitive skin." This is obviously a quality valued by the consumer. The use of DI-PPG-2 Myreth-10 Adipate in surfactant-based formulations will significantly reduce potential irritation without negatively impacting cleansing performance, providing you with a unique point of differentiation from your competition.

Karen Chen, Jena Kinney, Joe Scheblein and Damian Kelly, PhD

Croda Inc

Edison, NJ
COPYRIGHT 2007 Rodman Publishing
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Copyright 2007 Gale, Cengage Learning. All rights reserved.

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Author:Chen, Karen; Kinney, Jena; Scheblein, Joe; Kelly, Damian
Publication:Household & Personal Products Industry
Date:Dec 1, 2007
Words:1340
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