When Randall Grahm first began packaging his Bonny Doon wines with irreverent brand names and labels, many wine industry types dismissed them as attention-seeking novelties. Now that Grahm has proved that satire sells, and retail shelves are filled with Bonny Doon-alikes, the man who put wacky wine labels on the map is ready to get serious. In late July he sold off two of his most successful brands--Big House Wines and Cardinal Zin--to focus on making biodynamically grown, terro/'r-based wines. Will this mean the end of Bonny Doon's quirky wine labels, or will Grahm keep the madness alive with cheeky new brand names, like Voodoo Vineyard Viognier or perhaps Le Merde Mourvedre? Stay tuned--or should we say Dooned?