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Rising Moon Kimono.

Kimonos are a versatile garment that can be worn as a traditional dressing gown or a modern layering piece for your wardrobe. Learn how to easily draft a custom kimono and use beautiful floral embroidery borders to embellish the garment hem and sleeves.

MATERIALS

+ 2 yards of cotton voile (or amount according to your measurements or desired alterations)

+ Water-soluble stabilizer

+ Straight ruler

+ Removable fabric marker

+ Thread: all-purpose, bobbin & embroidery

+ Floral border design (3 1/2 x 91/2"; see "Design.")

CUT

* Fold the fabric in half widthwise, matching the short raw edges (A).

* Using a removable fabric marker, mark the center along the folded edge; label as point "A."

* Draw a straight line 30" below point A, perpendicular to the folded edge; label the line end as point "B." Designate as the centerline. To create a shorter or longer kimono length, add or subtract from the 30" measurement as desired.

* Mark 14" to either side of point B; label point "C" and "D." Draw a straight line to connect point C and D.

* Mark 21" to either side of point A; label point "E" and "F." To create shorter or longer sleeves, add or subtract from the 21" measurement as desired.

* Draw a straight line 12" below point E, perpendicular to the folded edge; label the line end as point "G."

* Repeat to draw a line below point F; label the line end as point "H."

* Mark 10" to the right of point G; label point "I." Mark 10" to the left of point H; label point "J." If the sleeve length was altered, add or subtract the same amount from the 10" measurement. For example, if the sleeve length was increased 5", add 5" to the 10" measurement for a total of 15".

* Draw a straight line to connect point G and I.

* Repeat to connect H and J.

* Draw a line to connect point I and C.

* Repeat to connect J and D (B).

* Cut out the kimono along the lines through both fabric layers. Don't cut along the centerline.

* Draw a straight line 1" to the right of and parallel to the centerline. Designate as the left center-front edge.

* Repeat to draw a line to the left of the centerline. Designate as the right center-front edge (C).

* Begin cutting through the uppermost fabric layer along the right center-front line at the lower edge up to the folded edge, across the foldline, and then down along the left center-front line. Designate as the kimono front.

EMBROIDER

Use 1/2" seam allowances.

* Print a template of the sleeve and lower-edge border design.

* To determine the sleeve design placement, mark the foldline at one sleeve-front lower edge. Mark the underarm seam allowance along the sleeve lower edge.

* Center the sleeve template between the two markings, aligning the design lower edge 3/4" from the sleeve lower edge; pin (D).

* Hoop a piece of water-soluble stabilizer and the sleeve, centering the template within the hoop. Place the hoop onto the machine, making sure the needle aligns with the centerpoint. Remove the template, and then embroider the design.

* Remove the hoop from the machine and the fabric from the hoop. Cut away the excess stabilizer beyond the design perimeter.

* Repeat to embroider the sleeve back and the opposite sleeve front and back.

* Align the kimono front and back with right sides together; stitch the side and underarm seams.

* Place the kimono front right side up on a flat work surface.

* To determine the lower-edge design placement, mark %" from the right center-front edge and lower edge. Position the template over the kimono lower edge, aligning the design right edge and lower edge with the markings; pin.

* Hoop a piece of water-soluble stabilizer and the kimono lower edge, centering the template within the hoop. Place the hoop onto the machine, making sure the needle aligns with the centerpoint. Remove the template, and then embroider the design.

* Remove the hoop from the machine and the fabric from the hoop. Cut away the excess stabilizer beyond the design perimeter.

* Repeat to embroider the left-front lower edge (E).

* Mark the kimono center back at the lower edge, and then 3/4" from the lower edge. Position the template over the kimono lower edge, aligning the design lower edge with the 3/4" mark and the vertical centerline with the center-back mark; pin.

* Hoop a piece of water-soluble stabilizer and the kimono lower edge, centering the template within the hoop. Place the hoop onto the machine, making sure the needle aligns with the centerpoint. Remove the template, and then embroider the design.

* Remove the hoop from the machine and the fabric from the hoop. Cut away the excess stabilizer beyond the design perimeter.

* Center the template between the left-front design and the centerback design, aligning the design lower edge %" above the kimono lower edge; pin.

* Hoop a piece of water-soluble stabilizer and the kimono lower edge, centering the template within the hoop. Place the hoop onto the machine, making sure the needle aligns with the centerpoint. Remove the template, and then embroider the design.

* Remove the hoop from the machine and the fabric from the hoop. Cut away the excess stabilizer beyond the design perimeter.

* Repeat to embroider a design between the right-front design and the center-back design (F).

* Remove the remaining stabilizer according to the manufacturer's instructions.

FINISH

* Double-fold the kimono left center-front edge 1/4" toward the wrong side; press. Stitch close to the first fold.

* Repeat to finish the right center-front edge, hem and sleeve lower edges.

* Or serge the kimono center-front edges, and then press W toward the wrong side; edgestitch the serged edge.

* Repeat to hem the right center-front edge, lower edge and sleeve lower edges.

DESIGN

Lace floral: Embroidery Library, Blossoming Botanica Border (Whitework), M18592; emblibrary.com

tip

The featured kimono measurements are one-size fits most. If needed, alter the drafting measurements to fit your body type, but remember it might alter the embroidery design placement.
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Article Details
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Author:Schlyer, Stacy
Publication:Creative Machine Embroidery
Date:Sep 6, 2019
Words:994
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