Printer Friendly

Rediscovering the Glories of Jewish Polish Food.

If you are a Tel Aviv foodieand, not too long ago and for lack of anything better to do, I wasyour life revolves around a few truths you hold to be self-evident in your heart and in your gut. You enter into a physical altercation anytime anyone suggests that their favorite hummus jointusually one run by a cantankerous old man in some shaded alleyway in a dusty town far awayis better than yours and twice as obscure. You hold forth on the importance of using good tehina in your cooking, and sneer at anyone who dilutes it with water rather than with pure lemon juice. You gaze at eggplants the way some men ogle centerfolds. Andthis part is de rigueuryou revile anything that smacks of Poland. Cholent, gefilte fish, chopped liver: These are the evildoers, the retrograde culinary beliefs against which the modern Israeli gourmand rebels with every bite of perfectly golden bourekas.

It's a curious bias. Say you're into Romanian food, and you're bound to meet with a pat on the back and a strong recommendation to visit Haim Nelo's stellar Jaffa grille. Express a hankering for a taste of Tbilisi, and someone will direct you to Nanuchka, a popular and rowdy gastro-bar. But mention Warsaw, and you get dirty looks. A serious eater, it is implicitly understood, defines him- or herself primarily against Polish cooking. In a nation founded largely by Eastern European immigrants, many of whom are Poles, Polish cooking is perceived as the primordial and unappetizing ooze that dominated all dishes until our palates began evolving, stood up erect, and sought their thrills in other, distant flavors.

Continue reading "Rediscovering the Glories of Jewish Polish Food" at...

COPYRIGHT 2013 Nextbook
No portion of this article can be reproduced without the express written permission from the copyright holder.
Copyright 2013 Gale, Cengage Learning. All rights reserved.

Article Details
Printer friendly Cite/link Email Feedback
Author:Leibovitz, Liel
Publication:Tablet Magazine
Date:Nov 15, 2013
Previous Article:WATCH: Caught on Tape, a U.N. Interpreter Wonders Aloud at its Israel Bashing.
Next Article:Phil the Kosher Butcher Survived Auschwitz but Was Murdered in My Hometown.

Terms of use | Privacy policy | Copyright © 2019 Farlex, Inc. | Feedback | For webmasters