Quick corner closet: muslin on pulleys.
Hung from the ceiling, this lightweight corner closet provides much-needed temporary storage in a minimum of space. Made of heavy muslin, the unintrusive, easy-to-make enclosure can shield clothes during a remodel, serve as an inexpensive storage solution in a vacation cabin, or hide odds and ends piled up in a garage. Inside the closet, metal storage units include seven wire baskets, a clothes bar, and a top shelf. Closet dimensions can be changed to suit your needs.
To build it, you'll need scissors, a sewing machine, hand saw, drill, and hammer.
Materials for a two-walled corner closet (24 by 58 by 80 inches) include 5 yards of 60-inch-wide heavy muslin or 3 yards of 7-foot-wide duck canvas, available from awning or sail-making stores; a large spool of thread; two 8-foot lengths of 1 5/16-inch wooden closet pole dowel; two closet pole sockets; five or six #12 eye screws (to secure bottom dowels to the floor, buy four more eye screws plus four screw hooks); about 40 feet of 1/8-inch cotton shade cord; four 1 1/2-inch (3d) finishing nails; a single- and a double-wheel 3/4-inch pulley; a 3-inch cleat; and a large bead with a 1/4-inch hole. Total cost: about $50.
To assemble, cut the muslin into two rectangles measuring 59 by 86 inches and 25 by 86 inches. Fold in all edges 1/4 inch and press flat. Fold in all edges 1/4 inch again, press, and machine-stitch.
To form open-ended casings for the dowels, fold the fabric, enclosing finished edges, to make 2 1/2-inch hems along the short sides of each rectangle. Stitch close to the finished edges.
Cut the dowels into one 58 3/8-inch, one 58-inch, one 24 3/8-inch, and one 24-inch length. With a 7/64 drill bit, drill 1/2-inch-deep holes in the top of the 58 3/8-inch and 24 3/8-inch dowel, 1/2 inch in from the ends that will form a right angle when the closet is hung (see photographs). Drill two same-size holes in the back side of the longer upper dowel, 6 to 7 inches in from either end.
If you'd like the closet panels to be taut and you can put holes in your floor, drill holes at the bottoms of both lower dowels, 1/2 inch in from each cut edge.
Slip the dowels into their fabric casings. Turn eye screws through the fabric into the drilled holes.
With someone to help you, hold up the upper dowels level and at right angles to one another where they will be positioned when the closet is hung. Make sure the short dowel butts against the long dowel and that the bottoms hang about 2 inches above the floor. Pencil around the upper dowel ends where they butt against the walls and mount pole sockets over the markings. (Sockets may require expansion bolts instead of the screws supplied.)
Mark a point on the ceiling directly above where dowels meet. Find a ceiling joist at or near your marking and install an eye screw. String cording from the ceiling eye to the eyes at the two-dowel intersection and knot securely, keeping dowels level. (If no joist exists above the dowel intersection, locate the nearest existing joist in line with the front dowel. Install an eye screw in the ceiling at this point and an eye screw in the dowel directly beneath it. String cording between these two eye screws and tie the two eyes together where the dowels butt.)
To secure dowels in sockets, toenail with two finishing nails each.
If you've put eye screws into bottom dowels to pull them taut, mark points on the floor directly below each eye, drill four holes, and screw in hooks. Slip eyes in the dowels over hooks in the floor.
To rig the pull cord, knot a 13-inch piece of cording to each eye screw in the back side of the long upper dowel. Drape the cording just below the front of the upper dowel and then knot it to the eye holes in each pulley (single pulley on the right, double on the left). The tops of the pulleys should hang just below where the fabric is stitched so the cord won't rub against the fabric on the dowel.
Knot one end of your cording to the right rear eye screw on the long upper dowel. String the cording as shown in steps 1 through 7 in the drawing, making a 2 1/2-foot loop at steps 4 and 5. When you've finished step 7, knot the cording securely to the left rear eye screw on the long upper dowel.
Slip the end of the loop through a bead and tie a knot beneath it. Mount a cleat on the wall to the left of the front of your closet about 50 inches from the floor. Use it to wrap the pull cord.
Designers were Diane McKenzie and Victor Budnik of Palo Alto, California.
Photo: Muslin closet provides temporary shelter for clothes, concealing modular metal storage system
Photo: Two dowels butt together; cording tied to eye screws suspends them from ceiling
Photo: Optional floor hooks and eyes keep panels taut
Photo: End view of right side of front panel shows top eye screw with cord to ceiling, back side eye screw with two cords for pulley
Photo: To rig pulleys, follow numbered arrows on diagram. At steps 4 and 5, double pulley will accommodate cording needed to form a 2 1/2-foot loop. Top dowel is slightly longer than width of muslin panel to fit into pole socket on wall
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|Date:||Oct 1, 1984|
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