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Put some muscle in your hair care formulations.

CREATINE is one of those performance-enhancing substances that is casting a pall over the professional sports world these days. Yet, that same ingredient, when added to personal care products, can provide several unique benefits that should be of interest to cosmetic chemists.

Creatine is a natural amino acid derivative that is widely distributed in the muscular tissue of the body.

Centerchem, Norwalk, CT offers Cosmocair C 100, a creatine product that was developed by Goldschmidt/ Degussa.

According to Centerchem, Cosmocair C 100 provides protection and revitalizes cell energy metabolism. Aging causes a decline in the amount of energy stored in cells and markedly decreases protein synthesis. Ultraviolet rays accelerate the damage caused by aging by increasing oxidative stress. However, topical application of Cosmocair C 100 increases the availability of ATP (adenosine tri-phosphate) by increasing the cellular energy reserve and providing the energy necessary for the cells to synthesize proteins such as collagen, elastin or enzymes responsible for the protection mechanisms. Thus, it affords protection and repair against premature aging and UV-induced stress. Cell incubation and tests and others were done to prove the above claims.

The product is a white crystal (nearly 100% active) which is used at 0.5-1.4%. Here is an O/W body lotion based on creatine:
Ingredients % Wt.

Phase A
Decyl oleate 5.7
Ethylhexyl stearate 6.5
Glyceryl stearate 0.5
Stearic acid 0.5

Phase B
Cetearyl glucoside 1.0
Cosmocair C100 0.5
Glycerin 3.0
Water 80.8

Phase C
Carbomer 0.2
Ethyhexyl stearate 0.8

Phase D
10% Sodium hydroxide 0.5
Preservative, perfume q.s.


Procedure:

Heat A and B separately to 80[degrees]C. Add A to B with stirring. Homogenize. Cool to 60[degrees]C. and add C. Homogenize for a short time. Cool and add D below 40[degrees]C.

In hair products, Cosmocair C 100 is said to repair, strengthen and protect the hair. The tensile strength of hair is improved by building electrostatic bonds between amino groups and anionic side chains of the amino acids of hair such as cysteine, cysteic acid and glutamic acid. Bonds between arginine and lysine are also developed. Its improvement of damaged hair (permed and bleached) was also shown by tensile strength measurement. Damaged hair treated with Cosmocair had improved combing as compared to the untreated hair and as compared to hydrolyzed keratin and hydrolyzed wheat protein on bleached hair. On permed hair, the protection was similar to the two hydrolyzed proteins.

Remember, the use level is between 0.5-1.4%. Here's another way to use Cosmocair:
Clear Shampoo
For Damaged Hair

Ingredients % Wt.

Sodium laureth sulfate 28.0
Methoxy PEG/PPG-7 0.4
 3-Aminopropyl dimethicone
Perfume 0.5
Water 57.1
Cosmocair C 100 1.0
Cocamidopropylbetaine 11.0
PEG-18 glyceryl oleate/cocoate 2.0
Sodium chloride q.s.
Preservative q.s.


Procedure:

Mix ingredients in the order listed.

HARVEY FISHMAN HAS A CONSULTING FIRM AT 34 CHICASAW DRIVE, OAKLAND, NJ 07436 HRFISHMAN@MSN.COM, SPECIALIZING IN COSMETIC FORMULATIONS AND NEW PRODUCT IDEAS, OFFERING TESTED FINISHED PRODUCTS. HE HAS MORE THAN 30 YEARS OF EXPERIENCE AND HAS BEEN DIRECTOR OF RESEARCH AT BONAT, NESTLE LEMUR AND TURNER HALL. HE WELCOMES DESCRIPTIVE LITERATURE FROM SUPPLIERS AND BENCH CHEMISTS AND OTHER IN THE FIELD.
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Article Details
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Title Annotation:Gleams & Notions
Author:Fishman, Harvey M.
Publication:Household & Personal Products Industry
Date:Apr 1, 2004
Words:545
Previous Article:Los Angeles-based Jason Natural.
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