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Poor man's custom! 1911 Part 2.

In Part 1 (7/20 issue), Matthews gathered the parts PART 2 for his economical 1911. This time, he assembles them.

With all the parts rounded up, it was time to assemble the project. I used mainly "drop-in" parts that typically do not require extensive hand-fitting. That does not however mean that no hand fitting at all will be required. There is just no way that parts manufacturers can make parts that will precisely fit every other part made by many different makers that are made to a variety of tolerances.

Even drop-in parts may require some minor fitting. This minor fitting is desirable. It's better to make parts that require a little fitting than to make them so loose they will fit parts made by anyone. This will allow you to make your parts fit "just right," without major hand fitting.

Typically this minor hand fitting is just a few file strokes or some minor sanding here or there. One of the things that make target guns shoot more accurately is the better fit of the parts. Don't let minor hand fitting scare you away from this or other projects; it is not all that hard to do.

I will briefly (if any of my articles can be described as brief!) explain how most of the parts are installed on this project. Space does not allow for in-depth explanations of how to install every single part.

The assembly procedures are presented here in random order. Typically, parts are assembled and disassembled many times over the course of the project, so build order isn't that big an issue. Since this project will be completely disassembled later for the application of a Cerakote finish, the order wasn't important.

Build your project completely and test-fire before applying any final finishes to prevent having to fit parts on a completely finished gun and risk damaging the new finish.

Many, of the parts used on this project are simple parts replacements. Good examples are the extended slide stop/ release and the extended magazine release. The new slide release just gets substituted when you reassemble the gun. I will offer one little tip for the novice. A very stiff safety detent can make it hard to get the slide stop fully seated against the frame. If this happens use a small punch or screwdriver to depress the slide stop detent slightly so that the slide release can fully seat.

Removing the magazine release is not part of normal field-stripping, so some readers may not know how it is removed. First, remove the magazine, then depress the magazine release almost all the way. While keeping the magazine release depressed, use a small screwdriver to slightly depress and turn the small screw head on the right side of the release fully counter clockwise.

This will rotate a small internal lever out of engagement. Once this is done the release can be pushed out of the frame. To reinstall it, you just reverse the procedure. If your new magazine release does not include a new lever and spring, you will need to salvage the old one from the magazine release. Just take it out and put it in the new one.

Make sure you turn it fully counterclockwise when you install it and don't turn it back clockwise till you have it in the frame. When removing the little lever and spring, make sure to keep it under control as you remove it. It is under a lot of spring tension and can easily shoot off into parts unknown when it pops out of the magazine release.

The next part to be changed was the mainspring housing/flared mag well. Novices may not readily see how this part is removed, but just like all 1911 parts, it is easy to get out once you know how.

First lower the hammer so that you remove some of the tension on the mainspring. If you have especially nice grips, you may want to remove them to prevent any chance of damaging them when taking the gun apart.

You simply remove the grip screws and carefully pry the grips away from the frame.

Take a small punch and place the tip into the recess in the crosspin that is at the rear bottom of the frame. Some pins may have shallow dimples or recesses in them, but others may have rounded heads. Either way, all you do is drive the pin out of the frame.

If the mainspring housing is loose in the frame, remaining mainspring pressure may push it slightly out of the frame. Once the pin is out, you just slide the mainspring housing down and out.

Pay attention as you are sliding the mainspring housing out of the frame. It holds the sear spring in place when installed, and when you remove it, the spring is free to move. This multi-leaf spring tensions the trigger, sear, and grip safety. To ease reassembly, make sure this spring stays in place:

The bottom fits into a slot in the rear of the grip, and the mainspring housing presses it up tight against the frame when it is in place. If this spring falls out, it can be a real bitch for the novice to get it back in the correct position.

The little fingers or spring leaves press on small internal parts and have to bear on them in the right place. If the spring falls out and you just slide it back up into the frame it will likely not engage the internal parts correctly.

The spring will go back in, but the gun won't work right. If you don't let the spring fall out, you will save yourself a lot of problems. There are a lot of books about 1911s guns and how to detail strip them and reassemble them. You will need to look in these sources to see how to correctly install the internal parts.

You can also reference my past SGN article (available at the store section of the SGN website, www.shotgunnews. com) on how to do a trigger job on a 1911 since it goes into detail concerning how the internal parts fit.

If you are using a Rock Island 1911, you may be surprised to find that the mainspring housing is made from black plastic. That's no knock on Rock Island: many big-name manufacturers use plastic housings.

I am not a big fan of plastic mainspring housings, so I chose to replace it with an EGW stainless steel housing. It has a flared magazine well and just slides into place on the frame.

If your new mainspring housing did not come with the internal parts, the mainspring, , mainspring cap and the bottom plunger, you will need to move them from the old housing to the new. A small pin in the upper right corner retains these parts under considerable spring tension.

To remove the parts, you use a punch to depress the plunger and then push out the crosspin. When doing this, make sure the housing is held securely and that you keep the spring-loaded cap under control as you release the spring tension.

If you aren't careful, the very stiff spring can shoot out at great speed and easily be lost or hit you as it is shooting away to areas unknown. Reassembly is the opposite of taking it apart, but there are a couple things you need to watch out for. Make sure that the ends of the plunger and the cap fit into the spring when you are reassembling it. If the spring catches on the ends rather than sliding over the parts, the gun will bind up when you try to cock it.

Also make sure that you have the cap depressed low enough that the crosspin is above the cap before you release the cap.

Before I reassembled my mainspring housing I made a small modification. The standard mainspring in a .45 ACP 1911 is rated at 23 pounds. The strength of this spring has a direct effect on trigger pull weight. One of the ways 1911 gunsmiths improve the trigger pull is by installing a lighter mainspring.

This can be done if you are only going to shoot commercial ammo that does not have very hard military primers, since it will affect firing pin impact force.

I replaced my 23-pound spring with a 20-pound spring. This shaved another 7-8 ounces off my trigger pull weight. While the stock pull of 4 pounds, 6 ounces was great for a $400 gun, 3 pounds, 15 ounces was even better!

Once I had my new parts installed in my mainspring housing, it could be reinstalled. On my gun this required some minor fitting. The angle on the bottom of my grip frame was slightly different than the angle on the flared mag well.

When pushed in all the way, there was about a .025" gap at one end of the frame and housing I had to take a few strokes with a file to remove a little off the frame so the parts fit together with no unsightly gaps.

The retaining pin hole in the mainspring housing and the frame also did not align perfectly, but once I fit the mag well to the frame, the hole lined up just right. As you are sliding the mainspring housing into the frame, make sure that the end of the hammer strut fits into the center of the mainspring cap.

Also make sure that the flat sear spring is in the proper position as you slide the housing all the way to final position. You will also have to make sure that the grip safety is depressed so that it slides under the housing when it is fully seated.

Once you have the housing fully seated drive in the crosspin at the bottom rear of.'-the frame to hold everything in the proper place.

Once you have the new mainspring housing/flared mag well installed, check that the lockwork still operates correctly. You should be able to cock the hammer and release it by pulling the trigger (assuming the safety is off and you depress the grip safety also).

If it doesn't work right, most likely the sear spring fell out of place or internal parts got jiggled out of position. If the gun doesn't work, don't panic. As long as you haven't forced any parts together nothing is likely to be damaged, it's just that, sortie minor part isn't where it is supposed to be.

The internal functioning of a 1911 is very easy to understand once you see how everything works. If this happens you will just need to refer to my past trigger article or some other source that explains how to assemble and fit internal parts.

With all the work done on the frame, it was now time to install the new match barrel and compensator. I hoped this would most improve accuracy. Considering the price, it better! GI-type barrels are made to pretty generous tolerances to make them reliable under combat conditions. They are also made to certain price points, so they are generally not as accurate as a match barrel.

You simply can't put $250 worth of quality and precision into a barrel that will only sell for $49.95 (or less if it is a GI contract barrel). High-dollar match barrels are made from better materials and to higher precision; that usually results in increased accuracy.

You can easily spend several hundred dollars for a 1911 match barrel if money is no object. Money was an object on my project so I bought the lower priced Clark Custom Match Barrel and Compensator Kit. While priced less than some match barrels, the Clark Custom barrel will likely shoot much better than I can, so it was more than adequate for this budget-priced gun project.

Clark Custom has an excellent reputation for producing quality barrels, so I had no concerns about using one. With the barrel's tighter tolerances and the recoil reducing benefits of the compensator, I hoped it would really increase the accuracy of the Rock Island 1911.

The compensator on this barrel is more or less permanently installed. While it is threaded to the barrel it is not intended to be removed. Since the compensator cannot be removed, a barrel bushing is preinstalled on the barrel.

The bushing is made to precisely fit this particular barrel, which should increase accuracy. The permanently installed compensator means that installation may be different than a standard barrel. My gun, as purchased, featured a one-piece, full-length guide rod. No matter how hard I tried, the gun could not be reassembled with the full-length rod and compensator.

With the compensator in the way, the rod was just a fraction of an inch too long to fit past the compensator and barrel bushing.

Since the compensator is attached to the barrel, the slide has to be in just the right position to allow the recoil spring plug to fit past the compensator.

In this position, the guide rod extended too far and the barrel bushing could not be rotated into the locked position. Other brands of parts may be sized just enough differentially that they will fit.

In my case the solution was to go back to standard 1911 format parts for the recoil spring cap and guide rod. I also have a little gripe here with Clark Custom. My $280 kit came with no instructions. Considering that installation is slightly different than on a stock gun, they should have included some brief instructions, especially for the new 1911 hobbyist.

In my case the gun would not go back together with the parts that came with my gun. It would have been nice to know there could be reassembly issues with some combinations of parts. Since I had problems with my project, I watched a video of a Clark Custom employee assembling a 1911 with this kit on YouTube, and when I tried that method there was no way my gun was going back together the same way.

Anyway, my solution was to buy parts to return my recoil assembly to GI configuration. All this required was ordering a couple relatively inexpensive parts from Brownells. I ordered a standard stainless steel recoil spring plug made by Ed Brown (#087-000-017, $11) and a Wilson Combat Standard stainless steel recoil spring guide (#965-000-116, $9). I could re-use the original recoil spring.

You start by field-stripping the slide to remove the original barrel, bushing, spring and guide rod. Once the slide is stripped, lay it upside-down on your workbench. The only part that will be re-used is the spring. Take the unitized barrel and compensator and slide it into the front of the slide.

As you are inserting the barrel, install the bushing into the slide before you have the barrel all the way in. Slide the barrel all the way to the rear so that the lugs on top of the barrel mate with their recesses in the slide.

Now get the new short recoil spring guide rod and slide a poly buffer onto the rod till it is all the way rearward. Flip the barrel link so that it is pointing to the rear. Lay the short guide rod in the slide on top of the barrel and place it all the way rearward up against the lug.

Take your frame and with the slide still lying upside-down and slide the frame onto the slide. You may cock the hammer before sliding the frame onto the slide to make it easier.

Once you have the frame and slide close to the correct position, pick up the gun and look through the hole for the slide release lever. Move the slide or jiggle the gun till the holes in the frame and the hole in the barrel link align.

Once they're aligned, insert the slide release lever till it is fully seated. After the slide is mated to the frame, you need to pull the slide all the way back.

Now rotate the bushing so that the recoil spring can pass by the bushing. Insert the spring, making sure the spring end slides down over the spring guide that is buried in the gun. You will likely have to bow the spring so it can pass the compensator.

Now comes the hard part. Push the slide forward till there is about a 1 -inch gap between the compensator and the front of the slide. Place the recoil spring cap on the end of the spring. You need to push the cap and spring down into the slide, followed by rotating the bushing to the final position.

You have to position the slide so there is just enough room to allow the cap to clear the compensator as it is being inserted into the slide. You have to do this all the while holding the slide in place and fighting against the recoil spring. There is just enough room to get the parts in place if you have the side in the correct position.

A little clearance groove in the bottom of the compensator gives a little more space for inserting the recoil spring cap. Once the cap is depressed into the slide, rotate the bushing into final position and release the cap.

Installing the compensated barrel changed the whole feel of the gun. The compensator adds enough muzzle weight that it seems to be easier to hold the gun on target. The extra weight, plus the recoil and muzzle flip reduction offered by the compensator, should really make it easier to quickly get back on target in rapid fire situations.

The added recoil buffer also made a noticeable difference when the gun's slide was cycled. Instead of hearing a hard metal on metal impact sound when the slide was racked, the slide now made kind of a dull thud when it reached its rear most position. I have these buffers in my other 1911 and it does make the recoil impulse seem to be less hard or sharp.

Now it was time to install the other big-buck accessory. The Burris Fast Fire 2 sight is extremely small. On rifle and shotgun applications it is normally mounted on an accessory rail on top of the receiver. Since it is so small, it can be mounted directly on top of the slides of many handguns.

Those large red dots that are the size of small scopes look fine on rifles and shotguns, but they just look awkward on pistols. The Fast Fire 2's weight (under 2 ounces) is so low that mounting it directly to the slide will not affect functioning. Many steel open sights that are used on 1911 pistols weigh more than the Fast Fire.

Back when gunsmiths first started mounting these small red dots on slides, it required a lot of precise machining and the fabrication of mounting hardware. Now, factory-made mounts are widely available.

The Burris Fast Fire 2 I used was made specifically to fit a Novak type dovetail slot. This is .495" wide with 65[degrees] angled sides. A replacement dovetail that features two threaded holes is supplied in the mounting kit. Other than having to possibly take a few strokes with a file to clean up the dovetail slot, no metalworking is required to mount the sight.

There is a small optional machining operation that can be done, but it is not required (more on this later). This easy mounting makes this a very appealing sighting option for the hobbyist gunsmith.

To start the installation, you must first drive out the existing Novak-type sight. It was a tight fit on my pistol, and had a small set screw that tightens against the slot bottom. This needs to be removed before you attempt to drive out the sight.

Most sights fit very tight in the dovetail slot and considerable force may be needed to get them out. There are pricey special tools made for pushing out sights, but most hobbyists prefer to use an inexpensive method.

The best improvised tool for this job is a soft-faced punch. Typically these are made of brass. The reason for choosing a brass punch is because it is softer than the steel sight. When you use a lot of force driving out the sight, the face of the punch will be deformed rather than sight.

I can tell you from years of experience that this is not always true. Even a soft brass punch will mar the sight if you really pound on it.

Some dovetailed sights have been in so tight that using a brass punch just smashed and deformed the punch, while leaving the sight in place. In these cases I had to use a steel punch, which really beats up the sight.

Anyway, I used the brass punch; the sight was in very tight and it took a fair amount of force to get it out. You will need to secure the slide in a vise with padded jaws to prevent marring the slide.

Trying to drive out the sight without solidly supporting the slide will damage the slide when it moves around from the hammer impacts on the punch.

Sometimes the slot gets galled from the intense friction of the tight-fitting parts sliding over each other. If this happens, you will need to use a general purpose 60[degrees] file (or a genuine 65[degrees] dovetail slot file) to clean up the slot before you attempt to install the new sight.

Once you have the old sight out, the new dovetail can be installed. The replacement dovetail in the Fast Fire mounting kit has two threaded holes in it for attaching the sight. These holes are very close to the edges of the dovetail and will easily be deformed when you drive the dovetail into the slot.

To protect the holes, install a couple of the supplied screws in the holes. Put them in almost all the way to the bottom but do not let then extend past the bottom.

Before trying to drive in the dovetail, apply some heavy lubricant such as 30-weight motor oil to the slot and dovetail. Do not use thin oils or spray lubes like WD-40, since they are too thin to offer good lubrication under high pressure fits.

Once the slot is cleaned up and lubed, drive the supplied two-hole dovetail into the slot with a soft-faced punch.

The dovetail must be precisely centered in the slot so that the supplied adapter plate will fit correctly on the slide. The bottom of the adapter plate is contoured to mate precisely with the top of the 1911 slide. It must fit exactly when the screws are tightened.

Use precision measuring tools to verify that it is centered correctly. If you don't have precision tools, install the plate and lightly tighten the screws and observe the fit between the bottom of the plate and the top of the slide.

When tightened, the plate must sit evenly on the slide, with no gaps larger on one side than the other. Ideally, you want the adapter to fit on the slide with no gap between the plate and slide.

Once you have the dovetail centered, you can mount the sight as per the supplied instructions. This basically is just setting the plate on the slide, installing a gasket, setting the sight on top of the plate and then installing screws through the sight, gasket, and plate and into the dovetail.

Once you tighten the screws, the sight is installed. There is one other thing that can be done for a more secure mount. Burris has placed an extra countersunk hole forward of the two mounting screw holes for a third mounting screw. You may drill and tap an extra hole in the top of the slide at this location for a third mounting screw.

If you have the skill and tools for this, I highly recommend that you do it. The small 6-48 screws are not all that strong and an extra screw will increase the shear strength of the mount by 50%.

Like I said, it is optional and I only recommend that skilled hobbyists do it. You only get one chance to get it right, otherwise you have messed up slide with extra holes where they aren't supposed to be.

When installing the mount screws, use some liquid thread locker on the threads as well as the supplied lock washers. The sight takes a lot of vibration and the screws need to be as secure as possible.

On my mounting kit I had one minor problem. The supplied screws were too short. When installed, they only entered the dovetail a little ways and only had a few threads engaged. This would not provide an adequate mounting.

There was enough room in the dovetail holes for much longer screws so I replaced the supplied screws with 1/8" longer screws. This then gave adequate thread engagement. If you find that you also have incorrect screws, only replace then with quality alloy screws such as grade 5, 8, or 9 screws. This ideally means grade 8 or 9 socket head Allen screws of the flat head variety. Do not use ungraded generic screws, as these will likely shear off in the future.

Once the sight is mounted, it is ready to sight in. Sight in procedure is similar to other red dot sights and scopes in that you change point of impact with adjusting screws. One unique feature of red dot sights is that the red dot remains on target no matter where it is in the view screen. I don't know how this is accomplished, it's all electro-optical hocus pocus to me. All I know is that it does work.

When aiming, you will typically hold the gun so that the red dot is more or less in the center of the view screen but it does not have to be to be on target. This makes red dot sights especially good for fast shooting, since all you have to do is get the red dot over the target.

There's no need to align front and rear sights and then hold them in alignment while you place the gun on target. This feature is why you see so many red dots sights used in rapid-fire competitions; it is one of the fastest on target sights you can get.

The only negative about using them is that they are so precise that every little bit of movement of your unsteady hand is amplified. This characteristic is also found with handgun scopes. If you have never used a handgun scope or red dot, you will be amazed at how much you move around when you thought you could hold the gun so steady.

With all the modifications complete, I headed to the gun range to see how my new poor man's custom 1911 shot. I have to say I was impressed. The compensator noticeably reduced recoil and muzzle flip. The extended controls made operation easier since I didn't have to shift my hand as much to reach the controls.

The match barrel kit shot much more accurately than the stock barrel. My groups now were about half the size they were before the modifications. The Fast Fire sight really made the biggest contribution. If I wear glasses that let me see the front and rear sights, the target is blurry.

If I wear glasses that sharpen the target, the sights are blurry. Now with the target glasses on I can see the target well and all I have to do is put the red dot on it. I don't know the optical reasons why this works, but it does, and it make me shoot better.

All in all, I was very pleased with the way the project turned out. I have a Springfield Armory 1911 with similar accessories on it except for the match barrel and compensator kit and the red dot sight. I have about the same amount of money in both guns, I can shoot this poor man's custom 1911 much better than the Springfield. I still enjoy my Springfield, but for maximum accuracy shooting I will be using my Rock Island 1911.

Now that I had tested the poor man's custom 1911 and found that it worked well, it was time for one last job. The gun looked pretty good with the original Parkerized finish, since Rock Island does a very good job of applying a nice smooth Parkerizing finish to the gun.

I however prefer a stainless steel color finish to basic black. The majority of the guns in my vault feature modern sprayed-on polymer finishes. This one would also. I like the wear characteristics and low maintenance requirements of these modern gun finishes.

I decided I would apply a Cerakote finish to my 1911. Cerakote is available in several colors. I would go with stainless steel color for the frame and slide and use matte black for some highlights on some of the controls and the compensator.

If you apply the Cerakote finish yourself, it can be done for about $50, while a professional application will run $150-$200.

For those who would like to know more about Cerakote and how to apply it I have covered this in a past SGN article. This Cerakote article and many other gunsmithing articles can be found in past issues of SGN that can be purchased through the store section of the SHOTGUN NEWS website.

If you really want to read a lot of gunsmithing articles by Reid Coffield, me and others, you can purchase the 400+ page SGN specialty publication SHOTGUN NEWS Gunsmithing Projects that is also available at

The first thing you need to do is completely disassemble your project down to its individual parts and decide which parts you want to finish and which you will leave as is.

The parts then need to be cleaned with solvents to remove any traces of dirt or lubricant. When applying modern sprayed-on gun finishes, cleanliness is vital for good results. Prior to finish application, the parts must be abrasive blasted with a sandblaster. To adhere well, the Cerakote must be applied to a slightly rough surface.

After abrasive blasting, the parts should be cleaned again in case any contaminants in the blasting media remain on the parts. The parts should then be hung on hooks for spraying the finish. Cerakote is a two-part finish and must be mixed according to the supplied instructions.

After mixing, the Cerakote is sprayed with a small spray gun. Very small parts can be sprayed with an airbrush, but larger parts are best sprayed with a larger miniature spray gun, since it can apply more volume of finish than an airbrush.

After two to three thin coats of Cerakote are applied, the parts can be set aside to air-dry for a short period. The parts are then placed in an oven and baked at 250300[degrees] for one to two hours. Higher bake temperatures require less bake time than lower temperatures.

After the parts are cool, you can reassemble the project. One thing you may have to do during re-assembly is to remove a little Cerakote in pin holes and on some tight-fitting parts. On my 1911, the slide fit pretty tight as received, and once I added a couple thousandths of Cerakote, the slide would barely fit. I had to remove some Cerakote on the slide and frame rails to allow the slide to move freely.

If you have all the required equipment, you can figure on about two to three hours to Cerakote a pistol. Once the finish is applied correctly, you will have one of the best and most durable firearms finishes available. Cerakote is one of the more expensive polymer gun finishes but it is also one of the best.

Once I had the project completely refinished in the new color format, I decided that I wanted a set of grips that looked better than the stock plastic or wood grips that came with the Rock Island 1911.

This meant a return trip to the Brownells catalog to look over their large selection of 1911 grips. While the theme of this project was a budget-priced 19111 decided to splurge on grips.

I choose Pachmayr's American Legend 1911 grips (#692000-022, $35). They are available in more than one color of wood, and I chose the rosewood laminate version. These grips feature rosewood for the beauty aspect and feature "Decelerator" neoprene inserts for the practical aspect.

The soft neoprene helps in obtaining a secure hold on the gun, plus the finger grooves also assist in obtaining a secure grip. While everyone's preferences in grips are different I found that these grips fit my hand great.

Since my gun featured an extended slide release and ambidextrous safety, I did have to do some minor fitting so that the controls would operate through their complete range of movement. When the controls were almost at the bottom of their travel they were hitting the top of the grips.

A little sanding at the top removed enough material that the controls no longer hit the top of the grips. Since the wood apparently was completely infused with adhesive when they were formed, it did not even need to be refinished where the material was removed.

After obtaining the correct shape with 150-grit sandpaper I just went with finer and finer grits until I ended with 1500-grit. This fine grit left no sanding scratches, since it was so fine. A little rubbing with 0000 steel wool in the sanded area resulted in a sheen to the wood that matched the rest of the grips exactly.

This project is a very good project for the novice gunsmith. Very little fitting is required and what fitting is needed is relatively easy to do. Most of the parts simply drop into place like the original parts.

If you can field strip a 1911 you can do most of the work on this project. While I used a Rock Island 1911 for this project there are a lot of economy 1911 pistols on the market. I have seen some real basic 1911s priced as low as $349 on sale. When you get to this low of price the quality can get spotty.

The Rock Island brand is well known for being a decent 1911, but I can't speak for the other economy 191 Is. I can enthusiastically recommend Rock Island 1911s based on my past experiences. If you are going to try some other economy 1911 I recommend that you do some online research and see what owners of those brands report. That's one of the great things about the internet; you have access to thousands of other 1911 enthusiast that are eager to offer advice (unfortunately this is sometimes faulty, so beware!).

If you like the idea of building your own custom 1911 to your own preferences for a budget price then why not give the Poor Man's Custom 1911 project a try?


Brownells--200 S. Front St., Dept. SGN, Montezuma, IA, 50171,800-741-0015,

Clark Custom Guns--336 Shootout Ln., Dept. SGN, Princeton, LA, 71067, 318-949-9884,

Evolution Gun Works--52 Belmont Ave., Dept. SGN, Quakertown, PA, 1895 1,215-538-1012,

Burris Co. Inc.--331 East 8th St., Dept. SGN, Greeiy, CO, 8063 1,970-356-1670,

Ed Brown Products--P.O. box 492, Dept. SGN, Perry, MO, 63462, 573-565-3261,

Wilson Combat-800-955-4856,

Rock Island Armory/Armscor--
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Author:Matthews, Steven
Publication:Shotgun News
Date:Aug 20, 2015
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