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Our chef has his own way of putting waffles with orange juice for breakfast.

People who ponder such matters tell us that "waffle" comes from the word "wafel," which is simply the dutch way of saying "wafer." A waffle iron creates the crisp, dimpled exterior of this wafer, but on the inside it is tender and warm--attributes it shares with country doctors and favorite teachers.

The waffle is also a fine vehicle for all sorts of sweet or savory fixings. The nooks and crannies of English muffins are as nothing compared to the deep, upholstered recesses of the waffle, as havens for butter, syrup, jam, whipped cream, fruit, or chicken a la king.

Perceiving that the waffle itself deserved more attention, Steve Siegel hit upon the orange as a means of enhancing its appeal. He substituted orange juice for milk in the recipe and sharpened the flavor with a touch of grated orange peel.

The result? Waffle and fixings are now equal partners as they march hand in hand down the road to breakfast, brunch, or light Sunday supper. Crisp Orange Waffles 1 cup all-purpose flour 1/3 cup yellow cornmeal 1/4 cup nonfat dry milk 2 teaspoons each baking powder and sugar 1/2 teaspoon each grated orange peel and salt 2 large eggs, separated 1 cup orange juice 3 tablespoons salad oil Syrup and butter or margarine, or sweetened whipped cream and sliced strawberries

In a large bowl, combine flour, cornmeal, dry milk, bakin powder, suger, orange peel, and salt. Stir together the egg yolks, orange juice, and salad oil; add to dry ingredients and stir until blended.

In another bowl, whip egg whites until they will hold stiff peaks. Fold into the batter.

Bake in a preheated waffle iron set at medium-high (about 375[deg.]), or follow manufacturer's directions. Bake until waffle ceases steaming and is well browned, 4 to 6 minutes. Serve hot, topped with syrup and butter, or whipped cream and sliced strawberries. Makes 3 waffles, each about 9 inches square, or 5 or 6 servings.

Gardeners in California grow a pretty ornamental plant called society garlic (Tulbaghia violacea). If there were any justice in this world, the bluntly Anglo-Saxon leek would be called the society onion. It does, after all, appear on the coat of arms of the British monarch as the floral emblem of Wales, and Shakespeare has Captain Fluellen wear a leek on his cap to celebrate St. David's Day (St. David being the patron saint of Wales).

Until lately, American cooks have used leeks primarily in soups--the dubiously French vichyssoise and the positively Scottish cock-a-leekie. But on the continent, people have always appreciated leeks for their elegant appearance and delicate flavor. From Los Angeles, Doyce Nunis sends and Italian-inspired recipe for leeks to be used alone, as a salad, or as part of an anitpasto platter. Leeks Italiano 9 medium-size leeks, about 2-3/4 pounds total Water 2 tablespoons olive oil 2 cloves garlic, minced or pressed 2 cans (about 15 oz. each) stewed tomatoes 1/4 cup pitted green ripe olives, drained and sliced 3/4 teaspoon each dry basil leaves, dry rosemary, dry marjoram, and dry oregano leaves (or 11 tablespoon Italian herb mix) 1/4 teaspoon fresh ground pepper

Trim and discard ends and tops from leeks, leaving about 1-1/2 inches of green, leaves. Discard tough outer leaves. Split leeks in half lengthwise. Rinse well under running water, keeping halves intact.

In a 12- to 14-inch frying pan, bring 1/2 inch water to boiling. Lay leeks parallel in pan without crowding and cook, covered, just until tender when pierced, 3 to 5 minutes. Lift leeks from pan and set aside to cool. Repeat to cook any remaining leeks. Pour water out of pan. If made ahead, cover and chill leeks as long as overnight.

Add olive oil to the pan and place over medium heat. Add garlic and cook, stirring, until soft. Stire in the tomatoes and their liquid, the olives, basil, rosemary, marjoram, oregano, and pepper. Bring to boiling, mashing up tomatoes with a spoon. Reduce heat and simmer, uncovered, until sauce is reduced to 2 cups, about 15 minutes. If made ahead, cover and chill up to overnight.

Arrange leeks on a platter and pour tomato sauce over them. Makes 6 to 8 servings.

Over the ages, the group of invertebrates called arthropods, or joint feet, has racked up a list of accomplishments that human beings have never quite matched. They've made themselves at home in the sea, in the sky, and on and under the earth.

Arthropods and avocados normally have little in common, but Bob Jefferson brings them together in a soup. Here is proof of human superiority at last, for Jefferson's combination bespeaks a dexterity in the kitchen that even the nimblest invertebrate can't match. Avodado and Crab Bisque 4 slices bacon, diced 1/4 cup thinly sliced green onions, including tops 1 medium-size (about 1/2 lb.) thin-skinned potato, peeled and diced 1 bottled (8 oz.) clam juice 1 can (14-1/2 oz.) regular-strength chicken broth 1/2 cup whipping cream or half-and-half (light cream) 1/4 to 1/2 pound shelled crab 1 large ripe avocado, peeled, pitted, and diced Paprika and fresh ground pepper

In a 2- to 3-quart pan over medium heat, cook bacon until crisp, stirring often. Lift out bacon with a slotted spoon, drain, and set aside. Discard all but 1 tablespoon of the drippings.

Add onion to drippings and stir over medium heat until limp. Add potato, clam juice, and broth. Bring to a boil and simmer, covered, until potato is very tender when pierced, about 10 minutes. Add cream, crab, avocado, and bacon; remove from heat. Ladle soup into bowls and sprinkle each portion with paprika and pepper. Makes about 6 cups, enough for 3 to 4 servings.

One of the best one-act food shows is the dramatic, at-the-table preparation of zabaglione, Italy's classic frothy egg pudding. But that's also the trouble with zabaglione--that it must be prepared and served at once.

Not so with Ed Balma's version, an unbelievably rich and velvety concoction. He cooks the egg yolks, sugar, and wine in the traditional manner in a round-bottomed pan (or you can use a double boiler) and whips it to a froth. The he stirs it into softened vanilla ice cream and, to add insult to injury, folds in whipped cream. It has to be tasted to be believed. But the nice part is, you can make it ahead and chill until serving time. Ed's Chilled Zabaglione 2 scoops (about 3/4 cup total) vanilla ice cream 6 large egg yolks 1/3 cup sugar 1/4 cup each dry or sweet white wine and dry or sweet marsala 1 cup whipping cream 2 to 3 tablespoons orange-flavored liqueur 3 to 4 cups peeled and sliced kiwi fruit, sliced strawberries, fresh pineapple chunks, or fresh orange segments (or some of each)

Spoon ice cream into a bowl and let stand to soften.

Meanwhile, in a round-bottomed zabaglione pan or in the top of a double boiler, mix egg yolks, sugar, white wine, and marsala. Place round-bottomed pan over direct heat or double boiler over simmering water. Whip rapidly with a wire whisk or electric mixer until mixture is about tripled in volume and flows in thick ribbons from lifted beater, about 5 minutes. Remove pan from heat and stir zabaglione for a few seconds, then add to ice cream and mix well. Let cool to room temperature.

Meanwhile, beat whipping cream until it will hold soft peaks; fold into ice cream mixture. Stir in liqueur to taste. Cover and chill until cold, at least 1 hour or as long as overnight.

To serve, spoon fruit equally into 6 to 8 stemmed glasses. Spoon zabaglione equally over each. Serves 6 to 8.
COPYRIGHT 1985 Sunset Publishing Corp.
No portion of this article can be reproduced without the express written permission from the copyright holder.
Copyright 1985 Gale, Cengage Learning. All rights reserved.

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Title Annotation:includes recipes
Publication:Sunset
Date:Apr 1, 1985
Words:1296
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