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Orange crush cape.

Add simple yet elegant blackwork embroidery to a wool cape for a chic fall look.

MATERIALS

+ Collared cape pattern with arm openings (such as BurdaStyle 08/2011 #112)

+ Wool fabric & interfacing (amount according to pattern envelope; see "Sources.")

+ Mediumweight fabric-like water-soluble stabilizer

+ Water-soluble topper

+ Thread: all-purpose, bobbin & cotton embroidery

+ Temporary spray adhesive

+ Removable fabric marker

+ l 13/16"-diameter sew-on snap

+ Large & small blackwork border designs (approximately 1 3/6" and 3/4"\9 1/2"; see "Designs")

PREPARE

* From the wool fabric and interfacing, cut out the pattern pieces. Note: The featured cape was shortened 6".

* Fuse the interfacing to the corresponding wool pieces, following the manufacturer's instructions.

* Construct the cape according to the pattern instructions, ending before stitching the shoulder/side seams.

* Hand baste each arm opening closed.

EMBROIDER

* Load the small border design onto the machine.

* On the machine screen, align the design right long edge 'A" from the vertical centerline on the screen. Duplicate and mirror the design. Align the design left long edge W from the vertical centerline, making sure to align the upper and lower edges with the previous design edges.

* Position the right-front cape wrong side up on a flat work surface. Measure the arm opening length, and then mark the center. Draw a line perpendicular to the arm opening seamline at the center mark using a removable fabric marker (A).

* Ploop a piece of water-soluble stabilizer. Mark the vertical and horizontal centerlines on the stabilizer. Spray the stabilizer with temporary adhesive.

* Fold the front cape right sides together along the horizontal centerline. Position the cape over the hooped stabilizer, aligning the fold with the stabilizer horizontal line and arm opening seamline with the vertical line (B).

* Unfold the fabric and finger-press to the stabilizer.

* Thread the bobbin with bobbin thread and the needle with cotton thread. Place the hoop onto the machine.

* If available, manually preview the stitching or check the design placement points to ensure the design inner long edges are 14" from the arm opening seamline and the designs are centered within the arm opening upper and lower edges. If needed, adjust the cape or design positioning.

* Reduce the machine speed. Center a piece of water-soluble topper over the embroidery area. If available, embroider a basting stitch around the designs.

* Embroider the designs (C).

* Remove the hoop from the machine and the stabilizer from the hoop. Remove the basting stitches. Carefully remove the excess stabilizer from the design perimeter.

* Repeat to embroider the left cape front.

* Finish constructing the cape according to the pattern instructions, but omit any buttons and buttonholes.

* Print two templates of the large border design, mirroring one template.

* Try on the cape or place the cape over a dress form. Position the templates over the collar as desired, making sure the templates are in identical positions on the left and right collar; pin. The featured cape is shown with the design straight short end aligned with the cape center-back seam.

* Position the cape right side up on a flat work surface. Mark the design vertical and horizontal centerlines using a removable fabric marker. Remove the templates. Extend the centerlines across each collar side.

* Load the large border design onto the machine.

* Hoop a piece of water-soluble stabilizer. Mark the vertical and horizontal centerlines on the stabilizer using a removable fabric marker. Spray the stabilizer with temporary adhesive.

* Fold the front cape with right sides together along the horizontal centerline. Position the cape over the hooped stabilizer, aligning the fold with the stabilizer vertical line and collar vertical line with the stabilizer horizontal line. Unfold the fabric and finger-press to the stabilizer.

* Reduce the machine speed. Center a piece of water-soluble topper over the embroidery area. If available, embroider a basting stitch around the design.

* Embroider the design.

* Remove the hoop from the machine and the stabilizer from the hoop. Remove the basting stitches.

* Repeat to embroider the remaining design, making sure the design is a mirror image of the first design.

* Remove the stabilizer from each design right and wrong side according to the manufacturer's instructions.

FINISH

* Topstitch 2" from each center front.

* Hand stitch a male snap on the right center-front wrong side centered along the upper corner. Repeat to stitch the female snap on the left center-front right side. [R]

DESIGN

Large blackwork border: Embroidery Library, Scrolling Vines Border (Blackwork), C4038; emblibrary.com

Small blackwork border: Embroidery Library, Flowering Border (Blackwork), C4067; emblibrary.com

SOURCE

BurdaStyle provided the 08/2011 #112 cape pattern: burdastyle.com.

Pfaff provided the Creative 4.5 machine: pfaffusa.com.

Riley Blake provided the burnt orange wool fabric: rileyblakedesigns.com.

Caption: BurdaStyle 08/2011 #112
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Article Details
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Author:Saba, Kim
Publication:Creative Machine Embroidery
Date:Sep 1, 2018
Words:775
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