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November controversy: where and how to carve.

Resolving a persistent controversy-to carve the turkey at the table or in the kitchen-Arnie Kamrin graces Chefs this month not with a recipe, but a technique.

His stand is clear and well reasoned: to preserve his sanity and temper, he flat out advocates keeping the chore in the kitchen. But because he also values presentation-if you're eating turkey, you want to know it-he devised a way to divide, slice, and reorganize the bird, with light and dark meats neatly arranged on a platter.

You can use this carving method with any size turkey. (Mr. Kamrin recommends hauling out the electric knife for tidy slices; however, we found a really sharp long-bladed knife also did the job well.) If you don't have a recipe for turkey on hand, try Kettle-cooked Marinated Turkey, following, which uses the barbecue instead of the oven for roasting.

Kamrin's Carved Turkey

1. Let roast turkey stand at least 20 minutes so juices can settle back into meat. On a carving board with rim (to catch juices), cut wings and thighs free at joints. Cut into breast meat as little as possible, and be sure to include with the thighs the "oysters" from the hollows in the backbone. Cut wings apart at joints; cut drumsticks from thighs at joints.

2. Hold the turkey upright (for a more secure grip and to protect hands from heat, wear rubber gloves). Cut closely down along keel bone (center of breast) to separate half the breast from the carcass.

Repeat to cut breast free on other side. Take care to keep breast sections whole, and avoid tearing skin; use your fingers to pull and ease meat free as needed.

Lay breast sections skin up. With an electric knife or sharp long-bladed knife, cut each breast half lengthwise into 1/4- to 1/2-inch-thick slices, keeping slices in place. Using a wide spatula, place the cut breast halves on a large platter.

3. Turn thighs skin side down. With a sharp short-bladed knife, cut lengthwise along bone in 1 thigh to expose it, then slide knife around bone to release it, keeping thigh intact; turn thigh skin side up. Repeat to bone remaining thigh. With an electric knife or very sharp knife, cut thighs lengthwise into about 1/2-inch-thick slices, keeping slices in place. With a wide spatula, transfer thighs to platter.

4. Fit drumsticks and wing pieces between sliced meats. Garnish with parsley or watercress. Serve warm or cold.

Arnie Kamrin Los Altos Hills, Calif.

The people of Calabria-a region at the toe of boot-shaped Italy-have learned to dine well on what the land affords in vegetables. Robert Gigliotti's interpretation of Vegetables alla Calabrese reveals this Mediterranean ingenuity.

Gigliotti's grandparents came here from Calabria in the early 1900s. From them he acquired a taste for the richly prepared vegetables of their Italian homeland.

Vegetables alla Calabrese

1 ounce (about 1/2 cup) dried tomatoes

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 medium-size onion, chopped

3 cloves garlic, minced or pressed

1 medium-size carrot, diced

1 medium-size red or yellow bell pepper, stemmed, seeded, and diced

1/2 pound mushrooms, thinly sliced

1 cup finely diced eggplant

2 to 4 drained canned pepperoncini peppers, seeded and minced

About 1 pound Roma-type tomatoes, cut into eighths

2 small (about 5-in.-Iong) zucchini, ends trimmed, thinly sliced

6 large pitted black ripe olives, thinly sliced

Hot cooked spaghetti (optional)

Freshly grated parmesan cheese

Salt and pepper

Put dried tomatoes and 1/2 cup hot water in a bowl; let stand to soften.

Meanwhile, pour oil into a 5- to 6-quart pan over medium heat; add onion, garlic, carrot, bell pepper, mushrooms, and eggplant. Stir often until all liquid evaporates and vegetables are soft and sweet-tasting, about 20 minutes.

Drain soaked tomatoes and chop. Add to pan along with pepperoncini (using maximum amount for most piquant flavor), fresh tomato, zucchini, and olives. Stir often over high heat until most of the liquid evaporates and zucchini is no longer opaque, 8 to 10 minutes.

Serve vegetables alone or spooned over hot pasta. Sprinkle with parmesan cheese and salt and pepper to taste. Makes about 5 cups, 5 to 7 servings.

Per serving of vegetables: 95 cat; 2.9 g protein; 4.8 g fat; 13 g carbo.; 179 mg sodium; 0 mg chol.

Robert E Gigliotte Edmonds, Wash.

Why should you cook a turkey on the barbecue? First, a barbecue out-of-doors will make it easier to accommodate the candied sweet potatoes, mashed potatoes, and the various pies and puddings that clog the oven (and our arteries) during the holiday season. Second, since traffic in the kitchen-especially in and around the stove-is also very likely to be congested, things will be considerably cooler if the item that cooks the longest is parked on the back porch.

Third, but no less important, the flavor of the bird stands to benefit-in this case, from Ken Churches' marinade.

Kettle-cooked Marinated Turkey

1 turkey, about 12 pounds

1/2 cup each soy sauce, dry sherry, and regular-strength chicken broth

1/4 cup lemon juice

1 clove garlic, minced or pressed

3/4 teaspoon ground ginger

1/2 teaspoon pepper

Remove neck and giblets from turkey; reserve for other uses (like gravy). Rinse turkey inside and out; pat dry, then pull skin over neck cavity and secure to back with a skewer. Place turkey in a large plastic food bag.

Add to bag 1 cup water, soy, sherry, broth, lemon juice, garlic, ginger, and pepper. Seal bag and rotate several times to distribute seasonings over bird. Set bag in a pan and chill 4 hours or up until next day; turn bag over several times.

On the firegrate in a covered barbecue, ignite 50 charcoal briquets. When coals are covered with gray ash, bank coals equally on opposite sides of grate; put a drip pan in middle. Add 10 briquets to coals now, and every 30 minutes as you cook, to maintain heat. Place grill 4 to 6 inches above coals. Place turkey, breast side down with wings akimbo, on grill directly above drip pan; reserve marinade. Cover barbecue, open dampers, and cook for 45 minutes. Turn turkey breast up and continue to cook until meat at bone in thickest part of breast registers 160[deg], about 1 3/4 hours total. Baste bird often with reserved marinade.

Set turkey on a platter, drape loosely with foil, and let stand at least 20 minutes before carving. Makes 10 to 12 servings.

Per serving: 383 cal.; 66 g protein; 11 g fat; 59 g carbo.; 511 mg sodium; 172 mg chol.

Ken R. Church

Yuba City, Calif.

You've been wrong all these years if you rhyme scone with stone. Never mind what your dictionary may say-if you are a Scot (or at least in touch with Scottish traditions) you will rhyme it with gone. Complicating the picture is the Scottish castle and town of Scone, which is pronounced Skoon (again, ignore your dictionary). This was the home of the celebrated Stone of Scone, upon which the early kings of Scotland were crowned. Edward I removed it to Westminster Abbey in 1296, and the irreverent claim is that the Scots, in revenge, have given the English scones of stone ever since.

This is an uncalled-for aspersion. Scottish scones have a consistency something like that of a biscuit or a shortcake of the genuine kind. They usually also contain currants and a hint of sweetness. Jerry Schroeder's Breakfast Scones are richer and more complex-with rolled oats, nuts, currants, figs, and brown sugar. With juice, coffee, and the Sunday paper, they make a satisfying breakfast.

Breakfast Scones

1 3/4 cups all-purpose flour

3/4 cup regular rolled oats

1/2 cup firmly packed dark brown sugar

2 teaspoons baking powder

1/4 teaspoon baking soda

1/2 cup (1/4 lb.) cold butter or margarine, cut into small pieces

1/4 cup chopped walnuts

1/3 cup dried currants

1/4 cup chopped dried figs

2 large eggs

1/4 cup buttermilk

1 teaspoon vanilla

1 teaspoon melted butter or margarine

In a large bowl, mix flour, oats, brown sugar, baking powder, and soda. With a pastry blender or 2 knives, cut butter into flour mixture until it resembles coarse cornmeal. Add nuts, currants, and figs.

In another bowl, beat eggs to blend with buttermilk and vanilla. With a fork, stir liquids into flour mixture until evenly moistened.

Scrape dough onto a well-floured board. Dust lightly with flour (dough is very soft) and knead 4 or 5 turns. Place dough on an oiled 12- by 15-inch baking sheet and pat into a 9-inch-diameter round. With a floured sharp knife, cut into 8 wedge-shaped pieces, leaving wedges in place. Brush with melted butter. Bake in a 400[deg] oven until tops are golden brown, about 20 minutes. Serve scones hot or warm. Makes 8.

Per piece: 375 cal.; 6.9 g protein; 17 g fat; 49 g carbo.; 294 mg sodium; 88 mg chol.

Fair Oaks, Calif.

A Middle Eastern sauce made from ground sesame seed, tahini gets a refreshing new look and flavor in this dip for raw vegetables.

Fresh dill, used generously, is pureed with tahini and gives it a pale green tint and a delicate, cool taste. Unflavored yogurt smooths and lightens the dip.

In the market, look for tahini in cans or jars alongside nut butters or with fancy foods. Or you can toast your own sesame seed and grind it to a fine paste.

Green Dill Tahini

3 tablespoons tahini (sesame sauce), purchased or homemade (recipe follows)

2 to 3 tablespoons water

1/4 to 1/2 cup chopped fresh dill

3 tablespoons unflavored nonfat yogurt

2 to 3 tablespoons lemon juice

Salt and pepper

About 4 cups raw vegetables such as jicama slices, cucumber slices, sugar snap peas, carrot sticks

In a blender or food processor, smoothly puree tahini, 2 tablespoons water, and dill (larger amount for more color and flavor). Mix in yogurt, lemon juice, and salt and pepper to taste; add water to thin, if desired. Serve, or cover and chill up to 3 days. Scoop onto vegetables to eat. Makes about 1 cup sauce.

Per tablespoon sauce: 30 cal.; 1.1 g protein; 1.6 g fat; 3.3 g carbo.; 9.8 mg sodium; a 1 mg chol.

Homemade tahini. Stir 1/4 cup sesame seed in a 8- to 10-inch frying pan over medium heat until golden. Pour into a blender or food processor; smoothly puree with 4 teaspoons olive oil.
COPYRIGHT 1990 Sunset Publishing Corp.
No portion of this article can be reproduced without the express written permission from the copyright holder.
Copyright 1990 Gale, Cengage Learning. All rights reserved.

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Title Annotation:Chefs of the West; includes recipes
Date:Nov 1, 1990
Previous Article:Spoonbread or cornbread sticks ... with blue cornmeal.
Next Article:"Seviche" salads ... the seafood is cooked.

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