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Night Sky Coat.

Keep cozy and stylish in a modern menswear-inspired wool coat adorned with all-over starburst embroidery on the lapels and collar. Plus, learn tips and tricks for working with wool melton fabric.

Caption: BurdaStyle 11/2015 #116

MATERIALS

+ Coat with wide lapels (such as BurdaStyle 11/2015 #116; see "Source")

+ Wool melton, interfacing & notions (amount according to pattern envelope plus 5/8" yard wool)

+ Lightweight cut-away stabilizer

+ Heat-removable topper

+ Temporary spray adhesive

+ Thread: all-purpose, bobbin & cotton machine quilting

+ Hand sewing needle

+ Tailor's chalk

+ Removable fabric marker

+ Starburst embroidery collection (2 1/2-to 4 1/2"-diameter starbursts; see "Designs")

PREPARE

* Download the Starburst designs from cmemag.com/freebies until Feb. 28, 2018.

* If using a digital pattern, print, tile and tape the pattern together. If using a BurdaStyle pattern, add seam allowance. Cut out the pattern pieces.

* Trace the roll line from the front pattern to the front facing pattern.

* Print as many templates of each starburst size as desired. The featured coat used three templates in each size. Cut a small slit along each horizontal and vertical centerline. Fold back two corners from each center, creating two small triangle-shaped openings.

* Position the templates over the front facing pattern as desired, ending the design slightly above the closure markings and slightly beyond the roll line (A). Experiment with the design placement to achieve the desired look. The featured coat has designs that extend beyond the seamline and into the seam allowance.

* Once satisfied with the design placements, mark each design center using a removable fabric marker. Make a record of the placement of each design, then remove the templates from the pattern.

* Position the front facing pattern right side up over the wool fabric wrong side, leaving 3" beyond the pattern perimeter; pin. Trace the pattern perimeter and each design centerline using tailor's chalk. Remove the pattern. Using a hand-sewing needle, thread-trace each design centerline and the pattern perimeter. Cut out the front facing 3" beyond the pattern outline (B).

* Repeat to cut out one upper collar and a second front facing with the pattern wrong side up over the fabric wrong side.

* Cut the remaining pattern pieces from the wool and interfacing according to the pattern guidesheet.

EMBROIDER

* Load the starburst designs onto the machine.

* Thread the needle with cotton quilting thread and the bobbin with bobbin thread. Reduce the machine speed by half.

* Hoop a piece of lightweight cutaway stabilizer. Mark the hoop centerlines using a removable fabric marker. Spray temporary adhesive on the stabilizer.

* With right sides together, fold the left front facing along the first design vertical centerline. Position the fabric over the hoop, aligning the vertical and horizontal lines with the hoop centerlines. Unfold the fabric and gently smooth it onto the stabilizer; finger-press to secure.

* Roll up the excess fabric beyond the hoop perimeter; pin.

* Place the hoop onto the machine. Lower the needle to check the alignment with the fabric design center. If needed, move the needle position for proper alignment.

* Position a piece of heat-removable topper over the design center. Use the baste-in-the-hoop feature to secure the layers. If this feature is unavailable, use painter's tape to secure the topper perimeter to the fabric before attaching the hoop onto the machine.

* Embroider the first design.

* Remove the hoop from the machine, but don't remove the fabric from the hoop. Trim jump threads and remove the basting stitches. Tear away as much topper as possible.

* Remove the fabric and stabilizer from the hoop. Cut away the excess stabilizer beyond the design perimeter. Remove the remaining topper, following the manufacturer's instructions.

* Repeat to embroider the remaining designs on the front facings and upper collar.

* Position the corresponding interfacing piece to the front-facing wrong side, aligning the perimeter with the thread tracing. Fuse, following the manufacturer's instructions.

* Cut out the facing, following the thread tracing.

* Repeat for the remaining facing and upper collar.

CONSTRUCT

* Fuse the remaining corresponding interfacing pieces to the fabric pieces.

* Construct the coat according to the pattern instructions.

DESIGNS

Starbursts: Download the Starburst designs free from cmemag.com/freebies until Feb. 28, 2018. Purchase the design at shopsewitall.com after the expiration date.

SOURCE

BurdaStyle provided the Wool Coat 11/2015 #115 pattern: burdastyle.com.

WONDERFUL WOOL

Wool melton is a thick, dense, felted coating fabric with a soft-brushed surface. The tightly woven, felted structure prevents fraying. Discover a few helpful hints to easily sew and embroider it.

* Always preshrink wool fabric. Position the fabric over a pressing surface. Using a steam iron on the wool setting, press the fabric. Let each section dry completely before moving the fabric to continue pressing the entire fabric length and width. Or have the fabric professionally dry-cleaned.

* Select a universal needle, allpurpose thread and a 3mm or 3.5mm stitch length for stitching.

* Press straight seam allowances over a wooden seam stick and curved seams over a ham to prevent iron imprints. After pressing a section, use a wood clapper and firmly press down over the seam until cool to create crisp seams.

* Grade seam allowances to reduce bulk.

* Most embroidery designs work well, even complex designs, because the heavyweight wool supports the density.

* Choose a 75/11 sharp needle for embroidery.

* Use a topper to prevent embroidery from sinking into the thick fabric surface.

Download the free Starburst designs from cmemag. com/freebies until Feb 28, 2018. Find the designs after the expiration date at shopsewitall.com.

Caption: BurdaStyle 11/2015 #116
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Article Details
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Author:Saba, Kim
Publication:Creative Machine Embroidery
Date:Jan 1, 2018
Words:908
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