Printer Friendly

New skin care ingredients.

Here is a list of new skin care ingredients introduced by suppliers during the past 12 months. For more information about the ingredients listed here, contact the supplier directly.

* Ajinomoto USA

Paramus, NJ

Tel: (201) 261-1789

Fax: (201) 261-7267



Amilite GCS-11

INCI name: sodium cococyl glycinate

Use level: 0.5-25%

Applications: facial washes, body washes, shampoos

Comments: Primary or secondary moisturizing surfactant. Exceptionally mild; very good, rich, creamy later; moisturizing.

* Akzo Nobel Surface Chemistry

Chicago, IL

Tel: (800) 906-9977 or (312) 544-7000

Fax: (312) 544-7159


Elfacos CDHM

INCI name (pending): [C.sub.12-16] alkyl hydroxyethylcellulose

Use level: 0.1-2%

Applications: sunscreens, lotions, body wash, bath gels, shampoos, liquid makeup

Comments: Elfacos CDHM is a hydrophobically modified cellulosic polymer which has unique surface active and conditioning properties. In addition to providing good thickening properties, Elfacos CDHM also provides benefits such as smooth afterfeel, when formulated into body wash and bath gen formulations. In sunscreen preparations and other emulsions, it provides enhanced sensorial properties.

* Bio-Botanica Inc.

Hauppauge, NY

Tel: (800) 645-5720

Fax: (631) 231-7332




INCI name: broussonetica kazinoki root extract (and) arctostaphylis uva ursi extract

Use level: 2%

Applications: creams, lotions

Comments: An all-natural skin lightening agent.


INCI name: centipeda cunninghami extract

Use level: 0.1-1%

Applications: sunscreens, creams, lotions, bar soaps

Comments: Phytoplenolin is an effective cell renewal and anti-inflammatory agent.


INCI name: origanum vulgare leaf extract (and) thymus vulgaris (thyme) extract (and) rosmarinus officinalis (rosemary) leaf extract (and) lavandula angustifolia (lavender) flower extract (and) hydrastis canadensis (golden seal) root extract (and) olea europaea (olive) leaf extract

Use level: 0.55%

Applications: skin and hair care products

Comments: A synergistic blend of botanical extracts that has been fully tested for efficacy and safety.

* Chemron Corp.

Paso Robles, CA

Tel: (800) 423-1148

Fax: (805) 239-8551



Chemccinate 2000 and 1000AF

INCI name: TEA-dietanolaminoethyl polyisobutenyl succinate (and) ethylhexyl palmitate glyceryl polyisobutenyl succinate (and) ethylhexyl palmitate (and) glycerin

Use level: 0.5-4%

Applications: sunscreen formulations, lipophilic-based creams and lotions

Comments: Chemccinate emulsifiers are for use in forming highly stable w/o emulsions. These emulsions can have up to 95% internal (water) phase, will exhibit excellent water resistance and long shelf life. In addition, these materials exhibit exceptional film-forming properties. Chemcinnate 2000 exhibits skin conditioning properties due to the ampholytic nature of its polar head group. The Chemccinate emulsifiers are also recommended for multiple emulsion-based active delivery systems for skin care applications.

* CLR Chemisches Laboratorium Dr. Kurt Richter GmbH

Berlin, Germany

Tel: (49) 30-85-10-26-0

Fax: (49) 30-85-10-26-85



ProBioBalance CLR

INCI name: water (and) lactose (and) milk protein (and) bifida ferment lysate

Use level: 2-5%

Applications: emulsified and gel-type skin care products

Comments: ProBioBalance CLR is designed to rebalance tired, stressed and sensitive skin. It lowers the stress level in the skin, protects it against environmental influences and stabilizes the immune system.

* Collaborative Group

Stony Brook, NY

Tel: (631) 689-0200




INCI name: butylenes glycol (and) pyrus malus (apple) fruit extract (and) glycine soja (soybean) seed extract

Use level: 1-5%

Comments: Inhibits matrix metalloprotease production while stimulating collagen synthesis and reducing inflammation to deliver young-looking, smooth skin.

Biotannicol I

INCI name: water (and) butylene glycol (and) triethanolamine (and) theophylline (and) glycine (and) cola acuminata seed extract (and) caffeine

Use level: up to 5%

Comments: A complex with anti-irritant, anti-cellulite and antioxidant properties that protect and preserve dermal tissue from breakdown.

Scavenol NDGA

INCI name: nordihydroguaiaretic acid

Use level: 0.001-1%

Comments: An extremely potent antioxidant with additional properties as a free-radical scavenger and lipoxigenase inhibitor. When combined with other antioxidants such as tocopherol, ascorbic acid or citric acid, a powerful synergy of antioxidant protection is created.

* Cosmetochem International Ltd.

Zug, Switzerland

Tel: (41) 41-748-33-33

Fax: (41) 41-748-33-44



Slimming Factor Karkade

INCI name: water/aqua (and) propylene glycol (and) hibiscus sabdariffa flower extract (and) sorbitol (and) phenoxyethanol (and) methylparaben (and) ethylparaben (and) propylparaben (and) butylparaben (and) isobutylparaben

Use level: 2-10%

Applications: anti-cellulite products, body contouring and firming creams and lotions, massage creams

Comments: Based on an extract of hibiscus sabdariffa and is supported by independent laboratory data which shows a 50% inhibition of the in vitro activity of lipoprotein lipase, an enzyme indirectly responsible for the storage of cellular fat.

Depigmentation Factor Bioflavonoids

INCI name: water/aqua (and) alcohol (and) lecithin (and) glycerin (and) citrus medicia limonum (lemon) peel extract

Use level: 1-2%

Applications: skin care products, particularly anti-aging creams and products for mature skin

Comments: Depigmentation Factor Bioflavonoids consist of citrus bioflavonoids encapsulated in nanospheres. These citrus bioflavonoids are obtained by aqueous extraction, nebulization and fractionation to produce a product high in hesperidine, eriodictyol and naringenin, which are then encapsulated in nanospheres to stabilize the actives du ring delivery to the skin. An independent in vitro evaluation has shown that Depigmentation Factor Bioflavonoids totally inhibits tyrosinase activity and thus pigment formulation in the skin to the same extent as hydro-quinone, the reference substance. This product is designed for use in anti-aging skin care products to prvent age spots and irregular skin pigmentation.

* Croda Inc.

Parsippany, NJ

Tel: (973) 644-4900

Fax: (973) 644-9222



Crodaderm S/Crodaderm B

INCI name: sucrose polysoyate/sucrose polybehenate

Use level: 0.2-10%

Applications: smoothing body lotions, hand and facial creams, baby care, cosmeceuticals and treatment products

Comments: Crodaderm S and Crodaderm B are high molecular weight sucrose polyester emollients that have shown proven improvements in skin feel, skin softness and skin smoothness in vivo. The esters were panel tested, delivered from various skin care preparations and found to out-perform leading retail brands in moisturization, skin elasticity and suppleness. Crodaderm S has a very low Emollient Skin Spreading Factor and forms nearly stationary films that provide a long-lasting, non-tacky skin feel. The Crodaderms work well together; studies indicate that the two provide better deposition of an emulsion as a blend and therefore are more able to optimize delivery of actives on the skin or provide a protective effect on the skin barrier. Crodaderm S is a liquid derived from soybean oil fatty acids; Crodaderm B is a pastille made from a blend of C22 fatty acid chains (behenic acid).

Crodamazon Maracuja

INCI name: passiflora edulis seed oil (and) passiflora incarnata seed oil

Use level: 2-5%

Applications: products for oily or acne-prone skin, concealers, wipes, cleansers, aromatherapy, barrier creams, treatment products and dermatological preparations

Comments: Crodamazon Maracuja is an emollient oil produced from the seeds of passionflower fruit and is one of a series of products developed from sustainable resources growing in the rain forests of Brazil. Crodamazon Maracuja contains bioflavonoids that have calming properties and sebum-regulating action and is rich in linoleic acid (77%), an essential fatty acid important to the barrier function of the skin. Sebum regulation study is available. The Crodamazons represent Croda's commitment to develop plant-derived products that foster preservation of the natural resources in the Amazon rain forests of Brazil and promote economic development in the region.

Incroquat QLC

INCI name: quaternium-92 (and) dipropylene glycol

Use level: 0.5-2%

Applications: skin cleansers and body washes, creams and lotions

Comments: A quaternized lipid conditioner developed especial]y for skin care. As a methosulfate quat, it is exceptionally mild, less apt to penetrate the stratum corneum and gentle enough for leave-on skin care. Incroquat QLC has shown skin smoothing and moisturizing benefits from a rinse-off system, as proven by in vivo by profilometry and corneometry and substantiated by a sensory panel. Incro-quat QLC is skin care-friendly and leaves a perceptible and long-lasting afterfeel on the skin. It is water-dispersible, anionic-compatible and polymer exempt from EINECS.

* Crompton, Witco Refined Products

Tarrytown, NY

Tel: (877) 541-7144 Outside the U.S.: (724) 756-9598

Fax: (724) 756-9386


Fonoline Petrolatum

INCI name: petrolatum

Applications: lotions, lip balm, sun care

Protopet Petrolatum

INCI name: petrolatum

Applications: lotions, petrolatum, jelly, san care

Hydrobrite White Mineral Oil

INCI name: mineral oil

Applications: lipsticks, lip balms, ointments

* Dow Corning Corp.

Midland, MI

Tel: (800) 496-6000


5562 Carbinol Fluid

INCI name: bis-hydroxyethoxypropyl dimethicone

Applications: color cosmetics, face and body care, antiperspirants and deodorants, sun care

Comments: Use levels are dependent based on product and application.

BY 11-030 Emulsifier/Gelling Agent

INCI name: cyclopentasiloxane (and) PEG/PPG-19/19 dimethicone

Use level: 2-20%

Applications: clear or opaque silicone gels and creams for skin care and sun care; anhydrous pigmented gels for color cosmetics

Comments: Silicone emulsifier designed to easily prepare clear, low water content or anhydrous gels of low viscosity silicone fluids. Can incorporate up to 20% of oil soluble ingredients such as mineral oil, esters and organic sunscreens. Benefits include low odor, unique textures, pleasant feel and cold processing. Use level is dependent based on product and application.

7-3101 Elastomer Blond HIP Emulsion

INCI name: cyclopentasiloxane (and) dimethicone crosspolymer (and) dimethicone petrolatum

Applications: skin care applications ranging from clear lotions and moisturizing sprays to body butters

Comments: Use level is dependent based on product and application.

* Draco Natural Products

San Jose, CA

Tel: (408) 287-7871

Fax: (408) 287-8838




INCI name: camellia sinensis extract

Use level: 0.1-1%

Applications: topical applications Comments: Protection against UV-induced lipid peroxidation in topical applications. In an in-vitro bioassay, TriniTea was shown to produce 100% inhibition of UV-induced lipid peroxidation of lecithin solution for over four hours.

Traditional Herbal Antioxidant Formula

INCI name: (pending approval)

Use level: 1 mg/ml or 0.1% concentration

Comments: Protects against UV-induced lipid peroxidation. Contains anti-aging herb astragalus, green tea and lycii berries. The in-vitro assay showed almost 95% inhibition of UV-induced lipid peroxidation for over four hours time at a concentration of only 0.1%.

Sea Rose

INCI name: (pending approval)

Use level: 0.1-1%

Applications: elastin protection, anti-aging, anti-wrinkling

Comments: Proprietary extraction of active phytocompounds from hippophae rhamnoides and rhodiola rosea. In-vitro test results demonstrate up to 70% elastase inhibition.

* Elementis Specialties

Hightstown, NJ

Tel: (609) 443-2500

Fax: (609) 443-2422



Bentone Gel OP V

INCI name: octyl palmitate (and) stear-alkonium hectorite (and) propylene carbonate

Use level: 5-10%

Applications: all skin care products including creams, lotions and treatment products

Comments: Bentone Gel OPV is an optimally dispersed and activated predispersion of stearalkonium hectorite in octyl palmitate. Bentone Gel OP V offers the formulator the following benefits: rheology modification, improvement in emulsion stability and emolliency for a smooth skin feel.

Bentione Gel HSO V

INCI name: helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed oil (and) disteardimonium hectorite (and) propylene carbonate

Use level: 5-10%

Applications: all skin care products including creams, lotions and treatment products

Comments: Bentone Gel HSO V is an optimally dispersed and activated predispersion of disteardimonium hectorite in sunflower oil. Bentone Gel HSO V offers the formulator the following benefits: rheology modification, improvement in emulsion stability and emolliency for a smooth skin feel.

* Global Seven Inc.

Franklin, NJ

Tel: (973) 209-7474

Fax: (973) 209-6108



Hest G-18-0

INCI name: glycereth-18 ethylhexanoate

Use level: 1-10%

Applications: creams, lotions, cleansers, makeup

Comments: Rich non-greasy emollient ester, water soluble, water white and odorless.

* International Specialty Products (ISP)

Wayne, NJ

Tel: (877) 812-7501

Fax: (973) 872-1583



Ceraphyl SLK

INCI name: isodecyl neopentanoate

Use level: 2-20%

Applications: sun care: sunscreens and sunblock lotions, daily wear sun protection products; body and face care: moisturizers, hand and body creams and lotions, antiperspirants/deodorants, night creams, shaving products; color cosmetics: foundations, concealers, lipsticks and lip ointments, eyeshadows and blushes

Comments: Ceraphyl SLK is a light feeling, non-greasy ester with a silky touch on the skin. It is a low molecular weight, low viscosity ester that offers superior reduction in oily or heavy-feeling formulations caused by components such as UV absorbers and pigments. Due to its branched chain, Ceraphyl SLK is compatible with silicones and in certain formulations can replace the silicone, giving the finished product a light, silicone feel.


INCI name: phenoxyethanol (and) caprylyl glycol

Use level: 0.5-1.5%

Applications: sun care: sunscreens, creams and lotions, daily wear sun protection products; body and face care: moisturizers, hand and body creams and lotions, night creams, wipes; color cosmetics: foundations, concealers, lipsticks and lip ointments, eyeshadows and blushes

Comments: Optiphen is a unique liquid preservative which consists of phenoxyethanol and an emollient base. The combination of these ingredients provides optimized protection against microbial growth from bacteria and yeast while giving the finished product exceptional feel. It can be used alone and functions synergistically with other preservatives. Optiphen is applicable for use in a variety of personal care preparations such as aqueous and anhydrous systems, as well as emulsions.

* Karlshamns AB

Karlshamn, Sweden

Tel: (46) 454-82000

Fax: (46) 454-828-85



Lipex Sheasoft

INCI name: buturospermum parkii

Use level: up to 20% in emulsions and anhydrous products; up to 5% in stick products

Applications: skin and body care, body butters, balms and stick formulations

Comments: Stays soft even at high temperatures. Makes skin feel soft, elegant and smooth.

Lipex Cocoasoft

INCI name: theobroma cacao (EU) theobroma cacao (cocoa) seed butter (US)

Use level: up to 20% in emulsions; up to 50% in anhydrous formulations; up to 5% in surfactant-based products

Applications: emulsions such as lotions, creams and body butters

Comments: Advanced cocoa butter with improved crystalization and temperature stability, allowing a high content of cocoa butter in formulations.

Lipex L'sens

INCI name: soybean glycerides (and) buturospermum parkii unsaponifiables

Use level: 2-3%

Applications: skin care, hair care, stick products, color cosmetic applications

Comments: Lipex L'sens is a vegetable ingredient with lanolin-like properties in respect to structure, touch, gloss, film-forming and water absorbing capacity up to 150%.

* LCW Sensient Cosmetic Technologies

Saint Ouen l'Aumone, France

Tel: (33) 34-48-5700

Fax: (33) 34-64-4440



Matlake OPA

INCI name: titanium dioxide (and) alumina

Use level: 0.1-30%

Applications: skin care and makeup products; shampoo Comments: Soft focus pigment adaptor; allows skin tone adapting makeup and skin care products.

Covabead LH 170

INCI name: methylmethacrylate cross polymer

Use level: 2-30%

Applications: skin care, makeup

Comments: soft focus pigment adaptor, allows skin tone adapting makeup and skin care products

Covapearl AS

INCI name: triethoxycaprylylsilane coated pearlescent pigment range

Use level: 0.1-30%

Applications: skin care, makeup, soaps, nail varnish, hair products, toothpaste

Comments: Easy dispersibility in oils; more stable-colored w/si emulsions; lower oil absorption compared to untreated pigment.

* Lipo Chemicals Inc.

Paterson, NJ

Tel: (973) 345-8600

Fax: (973) 345-8365



Cosmelene of Echinacea

INCI name: butylene glycol (and) water (and) echinacea angustifolia extract

Use level: 3.5%

Applications: skin care

Comments: Designed for prevention of sun damage and for aggressed and aging skin.

Cosmelene of Coleus

INCI name: butylene glycol (and) water (and) plecranthus barbatus root extract

Use level: 3.5%

Applications: skin care

Comments: Designed to contribute to the regulation of the skin's hydro-lipicid balance in aggressed and aging skin.


INCI name: cucurbita pep (pumpkin) seed extract

Use level: 2%

Applications: sMn care, makeup

Comments: A natural skin brilliance reducer not affecting the protective sebum.

* Micro Powders Inc.

Tarrytown, NY

Tel: (914) 793-4058

Fax: (914) 472-7098



Microred 5025

INCI name: polyethylene (and) FD&C Red #40 AL Lake

Use level: 0.5-1%

Applications: cremes and lotions

Comments: Permanently colored polyethylene exfoliant to provide a unique visual effect.

Natureblue 20RS

INCI name: rice bran wax (and) FD&C Blue #1 AL Lake

Use level: 0.5-1%

Applications: cremes, lotions and cleansing Products

Comments: All-natural exfoliant that provides a unique visual effect.

Mattewax 511

INCI name: polypropylene wax

Use level: 1-8%

Applications: cremes and lotions

Comments: Provides a smooth matte finish.

* Nalco Company

Naperville, IL

Tel: (630) 305-1000

Fax: (630) 305-2998



Merquat 3333

INCI name: polyquaternium-39

Use level: 1%

Applications: shower gels, body washes, liquid soaps and cleansers, creams and lotions

Comments: Merquat 3333 provides superior moisture retention and humectancy. It is non-occlusive, non-sticky and fully compatible with anionic surfactants. Merquat 3333 provides excellent wet slip and after-feel in rinse-off skin care products.

* Natunola Health

Nepean, Ontario, Canada

Tel: (613) 727-7337

Fax: (613) 727-3772



Mustard Betaglucan R25

INCI name: water (and) brassica alba seed extract

Use level: 1-15%

Applications: hand lotions, moisturizing lotions, sunscreen and self-tanning lotions, shaving creams, protective creams, face creams, skin healing lotions

Comments: Mustard Betaglucan R25 forms a thin film when applied to the skin and thus is an excellent moisturizer to be used in cosmetic formulations.

* Noveon Inc.

Cleveland, OH

Tel: (800) 379-5389

Fax: (216) 447-5740

Website: or

BR Forest

INCI name: Astrocaryum murumuru butter

Use level: 1-5%

Applications: moisturizers, barrier creams, after-sun treatments, lotions and creams

Comments: A unique, patent-pending rain forest botanical from Chemyunion, supplied exclusively by Noveon in the U.S., Canada, Mexico and India. It provides emolliency and hydration and is especially recommended for use in products targeted to dry skin.

Ultrabee-25 Silicone

INCI name: dimethicone PEG-1 beeswax

Use level: 1-7% (higher in lip care products)

Applications: creams, lotions, moisturizing facial cleansers and body washes, makeup removers, lip care and sun care products

Comments: Combines the properties of silicones and waxes for excellent aesthetics in systems containing waxes where it improves spreadability and handling properties. Excellent gloss and thermal stability, recommended for use in moisturizing products, emulsion systems and to enhance gloss in lip care and color cosmetics.

Carbopol Ultrez 20 Polymer

INCI name: acrylates/[C.sub.10-30] alkyl acrylate crosspolymer

Use level: up to 2%

Applications: creams, lotions, body washes, sun care products

Comments: The newest addition to the Carbopol family provides excellent ease of handling, superior clarity and efficiency. It features superior electrolyte tolerance and can be used effectively in systems containing up to 15% surfactants. Recommended for low tack, smooth flow, medium viscosity systems. Self-dispersing for outstanding handling and ease of use.

* Pacific Sud Cosmetique

Aubagne, France

Tel: (33) 4-42-32-02-79

Fax: (33) 4-42-32-00-43



Tamanu Oil

INCI name: calophyllum inophyllum

Applications: skin care, hair care, well being (spa)

Comments: Manufacturer of Polynesian ingredients.

Vanilla Oil

INCI name: vanilla tahitensis

Applications: skin care, hair care, well being (spa)

Comments: Manufacturer of Polynesian ingredients.

Coconut Exfoliating

INCI name: cocos nucifera

Applications: skin care, hair care, well being (spa)

Comments: Manufacturer of Polynesian ingredients.

* Presperse Inc.

Somerset, NJ

Tel: (732) 356-5200

Fax: (732) 356-3533



Efaduo Organic Blackcurrant Seed Oil

INCI name: ribes nigrum (blackcurrant) seed oil

Use level: 1-5%

Applications: anti-aging, skin nourishing and revitalizing products

Comments: Produced by a gentle Supercritical C[O.sub.2] extraction process which protects the naturally high levels of essential fatty acids. Contains Omega-6, Omega-3 and alpha linolenic acid to help re-balance damaged or stressed skin.

Olivem 800

INCI name: ceteareth-6 olivate

Use level: 2-5%

Applications: anti-aging products, oil-free products, sprayable products

Comments: A natural and mild functional emulsifier derived from olive oil, combining moisturizing effects and fast absorption with a light and silky skin feel. Particularly suitable for daily care products.

UV Titan X-263

INCI name: titanium dioxide (and) alumina (and) hexametaphosphate (and) polyvinylpyrrolidon

Use level: 3-25%

Applications: anti-aging products, daily UV protection products, sunscreens

Comments: Superior light stability and excellent compatability with organic sunscreens (especially OMC), vitamins and antioxidants, due to the newly developed and patented surface treatment.

* RITA Corp.

Crystal Lake, IL

Tel: (815) 337-2500

Fax: (815) 337-2522




INCI name: water (and) medicago sativa (Alfalfa) extract

Use level: 1-4%

Applications: anti-aging formulations

Ritasil K-51

INCI name: cyclopentasiloxane (and) dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone cross polymer

Use level: 0.5-100%

Applications: skin care, hair care

Viscolam AT 100P

INCI name: sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, hydrogenated polydecene, trideceth-10

Use level: 0.3-5%

Applications: skin care, hair care

* Rutherford Chemicals LLC/CasChem

Bayonne, NJ

Tel: (201) 858-7861

Fax: (201) 858-0308




INCI name: ricinus communis (castor) seed oil (and) hydrogenated castor oil

Use level: 5-100%

Applications: skin care including lip products, moisturizers, baby care products, cleansers and makeup removers; hair styling products

Comments: A versatile ointment base which can be easily used directly on the skin or incorporated with other ingredients to create a wide variety of lip treatments, moisturizers, makeup removers, excipients and hair styling products. A natural-based, renewable resourced alternative material to petrolatum and other petroleum-based skin care ingredients. Demonstrates superior skin feel, gloss and photostability properties when compared to petrolatum.

* Sabinsa Corp.

Piscataway, NJ

Tel: (732) 777-1111

Fax: (732) 777-1443



Galanga Extract

INCI name: kaempferia galanga root extract

Use level: 2.5-7.5%

Applications: protective creams, lotions, gels, sprays and other topical preparations Comments: Primarily for acne control.

Also used in skin fairness/skin whitening, mouthwashes and deodorants, moisturizers and face masks and hair care products


INCI name: saccharum officinarum

Use level: 1-2%

Applications: sebum and acne control formulations

Comments: For acne management and promotion of skin smoothness.

Soy Isoflavones 50% CG

Use level: 0.2-0.5%

Applications: 0.2-0.5% in skin brightening formulations; 0.4-1% in age-defying formulations

Comments: For skin brightening and anti-aging.

* Sasol North America Inc.

Houston, TX

Tel: (201) 666-9918

Fax: (201) 666-9623


Imwitor 390

INCI name (proposed): glyceryl isostearate/ citrate/lactate

Use level: 2-5%

Applications: o/w emulsions, especially thin liquid emulsions; sunscreen formulations

Comments: Water-dispersible, powerful o/w AHA-ester emulsifier with exceptionally soft, skin-smoothing emollient properties that also imparts a glossy appearance. Can help cut down on the stickiness associated with sunscreen formulations with high sunscreen loads.

Marlipal 1/7

INCI name: PEG-7 methyl ether

Use level: 0.5-2%

Applications: thin liquid emulsions; sunscreen Formulations

Comments: Excellent pigment dispersant for sunscreen formulations.

* Secma Biotechnologies Marines

Pontrieux, France

Tel: (331 2-9695-3132

Fax: (33) 2-9695-3130




INCI name: algae extract

Use level: 1%

Applications: anti-aging care products for young or mature skin; myorelaxing and replumping

Comments: Decreases expression lines (myorelaxation action) (inhibition of contractil fibers demonstrated in a co-culture nerve-muscle); (mechanism: blocking action on neuromediators CGRP and SP); (advanced security: reversible myorelaxing activity); replumps the skin (stimulation of collagens and cohesion of dermal cells); (stimulates dermal integrins); moisturizes in depth (increase of quantity and quality of glycosaminoglycans); progects global cellular integrity (performing anti-radicals action).

* Sederma Inc.

Parsippany, NJ

Tel: (973) 993-2973

Fax: (973) 644-9222




INCI name: C12-15 alkyl benzoate (and) tribehenin (and) ceramide 2 (and) PEG 10 rapeseed sterol (and) palmitoyl oligopeptide

Use level: 2%

Applications: anti-wrinkle and anti-aging products, face creams, lotions, gels, serums, cover sticks, foundation makeup, eye creams, silicone based preparations

Comments: Patented anti-aging, wrinkle reducing agent. Proven to stimulate cutaneous barrier repair in vitro and reduce the volume, depth and surface area of wrinkles in vivo, Dermaxyl works first by stimulating cell communication and then by repairing the age-related skin damage. The results of the 56-day clinical study were dramatic: main wrinkle volume and depth were reduced by as much as 36% and 27% respectively, and the surface areas of deep and medium wrinkles by as much as 98% and 86%, respectively. Wrinkle assessment was conducted using image analysis (profilometry) on the first and last day of treatment.


INCI name: saccharomyces/xylitum (and) black tea ferment (and)glycerin (and) hydroxyethylcellulose

Use level: 3%

Applications: skin-smoothing or anti-aging Products

Comments: A new, patented "lipo-filling" active that smoothes and revitalizes skin and provides a natural, more non-invasive way to a more radiant complexion. It is the product of the fermentation of sweet black tea by the symbiosis of two microorganisms. It has been shown to decrease glycation, increase adipocyte population and reduce skin roughness. In a sensory analysis, 75% and 81% of panelists, respectively, saw an increase in luminosity and clarity, perceived as an improvement in radiance. In vitro and in vivo studies are available. Historically, kombucha was considered the "fungus of long life" in Russia and China because it was believed to confer longevity.


INCI name: caprylic/capric triglyceride (and) diacetyl boldine

Use level: 4%

Applications: skin brightening or whitening products, foundations, complexion creams

Comments: Lumiskin is a new skin brightening agent that works by stabilizing tyrosinase in its inactive form, rather than inhibiting it. In vitro studies report a 53% drop in tyrosinase activity and a 70%decrease in the quantity of melanin. In another study, a Lumiskin-treated skin model was found to have a visible and significant reduction in epidermal pigmentation. In vivo colorimetric testing reported similar findings in that Lumiskin treatment produced a lower melanin index and a higher ITA (clarity). Over half the panelists in a self-evaluation indicated their skin appeared to have less pigmented areas; overall, the consensus was that the skin was lighter and more radiant and their complexion, more even.

* Tagra Biotechnologies Ltd.


Tel: (972) 9-8656454

Fax: (972) 9-8654278



Tagranat GS1

INCI name: vitis vinifera (grape) seed extract

Use level: 0.5-2%

Applications: anti-aging cream, facial Cream

Comments: Prevention of skin lipids against free radicals; prevention of UV-induced lipid oxidation in skin. Significantly increases the stability and shelf life of the active principles OPC and maintains OPC's original activity. Prevents the oxidation and cobur development process in formulation. Unique control release mechanism on the skin.

* Tri-K Industries Inc.

Northvale, NJ

Tel: (201) 750-1055

Fax: (201) 750-9785




INCI name: water (and) porphyridium cruentum extract (and) alcohol (and) hydrolyzed marine collagen silanetriol (and) polysorbate 20 (and) gluatamyl-amidoethyl imidazole (and) fructose oligosaccharides

Use level: 3-15%

Applications: anti-aging and corrective skin care applications, firming skin care formulations, eye treatments, anti-wrinkle treatments

Comments: DensiSkin delivers the same cosmetic visual effect as botox, but through a different mechanism of action. It helps restore normal cell metabolism and aid collagen biosynthesis as well as soothe skin and smooth the cutaneous micro-relief.

RejuvenOx PFD

INCI name: perfluorodecalin

Use level: 0.4-25%

Applications: anti-aging products, skin treatment products, acne-healing products, after sun formulations

Comments: RejuvenOx PFD increases the oxygen content of skin, which in turn aids in rapidly healing damaged tissue and minimizing scarring. It further aids in skin hydration and "plumps" the skin to produce smoother skin and reduce the appearance of fine lines.

Collagen Native Extra 1%

INCI name: soluble collagen

Use level: up to 5%

Applications: anti-aging products, moisturizers, eye treatments

Comments: Soluble collagen, because of its superior moisture-retentive capabilities, acts naturally to hydrate the skin surface, thereby mitigating the effects of aging. Collagen Native Extra 1% is an excellent film former and provides a natural, protective, non-occlusive barrier to harsh conditions.

* Uniqema

New Castle, DE

Tel: (302) 574-1080

Fax: (302) 574-1790



Arlatone Dioic DCA

INCI name: octadecenedioic acid (and) BHT

Applications: skin care; facial care; body care; bath and shower products; facial makeup

Comments: Arlatone Dioic DCA improves the appearance of skin tone as well as the texture and natural radiance of skin.

Solaveil CT-10W

INCI name: water (and) titanium dioxide (and) isodeceth-6 (and) oleth-10 (and) aluminum stearate (and) alumina (and) simethicone

Applications: facial care; baby care; sun care: facial makeup

Comments: Solaveil CT-10W has all the benefits of an inorganic sunscreen combined with total cosmetic elegance.

* Wacker Silicones

Adrian, MI

Tel: (800) 248-0063

Fax: (517) 264-4070



Wacker-Belsil MM 8030 VP

INCI name: C30_45 alkyl methicone

Use level: 0.5-5%

Applications: skin care, creams and lotions, color cosmetics, mascara, lipstick

Comments: Good skin feel, improves spreadability, high melting point silicone wax (80[degrees]C).

Wacker-BelsilCM 7026 VP

INCI name: [C.sub.26-28] alkyl methicone

Use level: 0.5-5%

Applications: skin care, creams and lotions, color cosmetics, mascara, lipstick

Comments: Good skin feel, improves spreadability, high melting point silicone wax (70[degrees]C).
COPYRIGHT 2004 Rodman Publications, Inc.
No portion of this article can be reproduced without the express written permission from the copyright holder.
Copyright 2004 Gale, Cengage Learning. All rights reserved.

Article Details
Printer friendly Cite/link Email Feedback
Publication:Household & Personal Products Industry
Date:May 1, 2004
Previous Article:Skin science: new formulas aim to deliver professional results, painlessly.
Next Article:NALCO polymer protects hair from UV damage.

Related Articles
New skin care ingredients.
New skin care ingredients.
Skin care new ingredients.
Grant repairs aging skin.

Terms of use | Copyright © 2018 Farlex, Inc. | Feedback | For webmasters