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New Skin care ingredients 2010.

Here is a list of new ingredients introduced by suppliers during the past 12 months. For more information on products listed here, contact the supplier directly using the information provided.

AkzoNobel, Global Personal Care

Bridgewater, NJ

Tel: (888) 331-6212




INCI: Zea maize (corn) starch

Suggested use levels: 0.5-5%

Applications: Antiperspirants/deodorants, bath and shower products, color cosmetics, conditioner, ethnic hair, hair gel, moisturizer, mousse, self-tanner, shampoo, skin cream and lotion, skin gel, styling product, sun protection, treatment

Comments: Naviance Maize certified organic biopolymer is an all-natural rheology modifier for use in personal care emulsions. Supplied as a powder, the biopolymer is an additive that provides thickening properties and is widely compatible with typical cosmetic raw materials.


INCI: Hydroxyethyl urea

Suggested use levels: 1-20%

Applications: Bath and shower products, conditioner, ethnic hair, hair spray, shampoo, skin cream and lotion, styling product, sun protection

Comments: Hydrovance is a single moisturizing agent that delivers moisturization efficacy comparable to the leading benchmark while offering non-tacky, non-greasy aesthetic in skin care products. This moisturizing agent, delivered in aqueous solution, can provide cost effectiveness as compared to high end moisturizing agents or by reducing glycerin, silicones and aesthetic enhancing agents. Due to excellent moisturizing effects, sensorial experience and safety to skin and eye, Hydrovance is especially useful as a moisturizing agent for skin.

BASF Corporation

Florham Park, NJ

Tel: (800) 880 5768



Luvigel Advanced

INCI: Polyquaternium-68

Suggested use levels: 0.5-2.0%

Applications: Multi functional rheology modifier for hair styling, conditioning and more

Comments: Luvigel Advanced provides enhanced setting and long-lasting hold, conditioning, exceptional sensory properties and efficient thickening over a broad pH range.

Luvigel Star

INCI: Polyurethane-39

Suggested use levels: n/a

Applications: Rheology modifier for hair, skin and sun care applications

Comments: pH (2-12) and electrolyte stability with elegant skin feel and excellent thickening performance.

MultiReflections Soft Sparkle Rose

INCI: Mica (and) titanium dioxide (and) silica

Suggested use levels: 0.5-7%

Applications: Hair styling products, fragrance sprays and body wash

Comments: Controlled color travel pigment which shifts from red to gold.

Chemsil Chemical Company

Chatsworth, CA

Tel: (877) 700-0302



Volasil 8100

INCI: Dimethicone and trisiloxane

Suggested use levels: 5-50%

Applications: Delivery serums, anti aging, cosmetics, creams, lotions

Comments: D5 free skin care emollient with light skin feel for formulations demanding the non-inclusion of cyclopentasiloxane. It has a similar viscosity, feel and volatility rate as D5.

Cosmetic Fluid 8110-DMC

INCI: Dimethicone and dimethiconol and dimethicone crosspolymer and trisiloxane

Suggested use levels: 5-75%

Applications: Serums, anti aging, cosmetics, creams, lotions

Comments: A specialty blend of silicone polymers and elastomers that form an elegant sheer matrix over skin to deliver ingredients. Designed for facial applications. A matte appearance on skin and fast drying time make it a perfect candidate for adding active ingredients like retinol and bisabolol for high end treatment systems.

Cosmetic Fluid 8108-OH

INCI: Dimethicone and dimethiconol and trisiloxane

Suggested use levels: 5-60%

Applications: Creams, lotions, cosmetics, serums

Comments: Silicone serum designed for full body applications. D5 flee, quick drying and an elegant after-feel give this raw material multipurpose use in body care applications and can be a delivery system for many active ingredients in a cold mix process.

CLR--Chemisches Laboratorium Dr. Kurt Richter GmbH

Berlin, Germany

Tel: +49 30 85 10 26 0



SyriCalm CLR

INCI: Water, phragmites kharka extract, poria cocos extract

Suggested use levels: 3.0%

Applications: Daily protection of the skin, after-sun treatment and baby care

Comments: SyriCalm CLR helps to control and reduce inflammation. It is designed to be used where the skin is challenged by environmental stress, shaving, depilation, or daily hygiene. The active helps the skin recover its natural balance.

Cognis Corporation

Ambler, PA

Tel: (800) 531-0815



Cetiol C5

INCI: Coco-Caprylate

Suggested use levels: 3.0-5.0%

Applications: Face and body care, hair care, hand sanitizers, sun care

Comments: Cetiol C5 is an emollient based on 100% natural, renewable feedstocks. It is an excellent substitute for silicones in personal care applications and is biodegradable. In formulations it is easy to handle and easy to emulsify.

Cegesoft SB Organic

INCI: name: Butyrospermum parkii (shea) butter

Suggested use levels: 1.0-15.0%

Applications: Face/body and hair care

Comments: Cegesoft SB Organic is a natural and unaltered form of shea butter that has an excellent odor and color profile. Because of its soothing properties and its soft and pleasant skin feel, it is widely used in skin care applications.

Cosmedia Triple C

INCI: Polyquaternium-37 (and) dicaprylyl car bonate (and) lauryl glucoside

Suggested use levels: 0.1-3.0%

Applications: Face and body care, hand sanitizers, hair care, color cosmetics, sun care

Comments: Cosmedia Triple C is a high performance cationic liquid dispersion polymer that has excellent emulsifying and suspending capabilities as well as efficient thickening properties. It can be used with cationic and nonionic ingredients as well as in cold and hot process formulations.

Croda Inc.

Edison, NJ

Tel: (732) 417 0800



Crodamol SFX

INCI: PPG-3 benzyl ether ethylhexanoate Suggested use levels: 1-20%

Applications: Color cosmetics, sunscreens, creams and lotions

Comments: A patented ester with functionality as an aesthetic enhancer and as an efficacious addition to sunscreen formulations.

Dow Corning Corporation

Midland, MI

Tel: (989) 496-6000



Dow Corning EL-8050 ID Silicone Organic Elastomer Blend

INCI: Isododecane (and) dimethicone/bis-isobutyl PEG-20 crosspolymer

Suggested use levels: 2-20% in lipsticks; up to 70% in anhydrous primer formulas.

Applications: Wide range of skin care products, including color cosmetics and sun care products

Comments: Based on organo-modified silicone elastomer gel delivered in volatile organic carrier. Quick absorption. Maintains distinctive feel of traditional silicone elastomer blends plus enhanced compatibility with organic materials and lipophilic actives, including vitamins and sunscreens. Can be used for clear systems with organic components.

Dow Coming EL-8051 IN Silicone Organic Elastomer Blend

INCI: Isodecyl neopentanoate (and) dimethicone/bis-isobutyl PPG-20 crosspolymer

Suggested use levels: 2-20% in lipsticks; up to 70% in anhydrous base formulas.

Applications: Wide range of skin care products, including color cosmetics and sun care products

Comments: Based on organo modified silicone elastomer gel delivered in nonvolatile organic carrier. Maintains distinctive feel of traditional silicone elastomer blends plus enhanced compatibility with organic materials and lipophilic actives, including vitamins and sunscreens. Can be used for clear systems with organic components.

DSM Nutritional Products Ltd/Branch Pentapharm

Basel Switzerland

North American Distributor: Centerchem, Inc.

Norwalk, CT

Tel: (203) 822-9800




INCI: Tetradecyl aminobutyroylvalylaminobu tyric urea trifluoroacetate, glycerin, magnesium chloride

Suggested use levels: 2.5%

Applications: Firming body and face treatments, anti-aging formulations, anti-cellulite gels, moisturizing lotions

Comments: Syn-Hycan is a tripeptide with a firming and remodeling effect by stimulation of GAG biosynthesis. It increases decorin and lumican levels for improved collagen fibers.


INCI: Spent grain wax, isomerized linoleic acid, behenic acid, palmitoyl tripeptide-5

Suggested use levels: 2-5%

Applications: Anti-redness formulations, creams for more even skin tone, sensitive skin formulations

Comments: Regu-Cea is an innovative active complex for the reduction of skin redness and telangiectasia. Regu-Cea inhibits the expression of cytokine IL 8 and reduces the accumulation of the vascular endothelial growth factor (VEGF), thereby reducing the appearance of skin redness and helping prevent skin irritation.

Evonik Goldschmidt GmbH

Essen, Germany

Tel: +49 (0) 201 173-2854



Tego Care PSC 3

INCI: Polylglyceryl-3 stearate/citrate (proposed)

Suggested use levels: 2.5-3.0%

Applications: Natural skin care products, PEG free lotions and creams, low-cost cosmetic formulas, body and facial care, baby care, sun care

Comments: Tego Care PSC 3 is a natural, cost-efficient oil-in-water emulsifier with excellent performance. Its sensory properties are comparable to PEG free, state-of-the-art emulsifiers. In addition, it forms stable emulsions between pH 4.5-8.0, suitable for natural preservation systems.

Tegosoft OER

INCI: Oleyl erucate

Suggested use levels: Unlimited

Applications: Skin care products, sun care products, color cosmetics and other personal care products.

Comments: Tegosoft OER is a sustainable emollient produced by an enzymatic process. An ideal alternative or supplement to jojoba oil, it imparts a caring, smooth and non oily skin feel in cosmetic formulations.

Abil EM 97 S

INCI: Bis-PEG/PPG-14114 dimethicone; dimethicone

Suggested use levels: 1.0-4.0%

Applications: Skin care products, sun care products, antiperspirant/deodorant products, color cosmetics

Comments: Abil EM 97 S is an emulsifier for the formulation of cosmetic water-in silicone emulsions that provide a pleasant, silky skin feel, and is also suitable as a co-emulsifier for water-in-oil and oil-in-water emulsions. It provides good re lease properties of AP-salts in W/Si-based antiperspirant/deodorant products. Its sensory benefits and good emulsification properties make it an excellent formulation aid for makeup, skin care and sun care products.

Jeen International Corporation

Fairfield, NJ

Tel: (973) 439-1401



Jeethix AW-1

INCI: Polyethylene, sodium polyacrylate

Suggested use levels; 1-10%

Applications: Skin care, personal care, hair care, color cosmetics

Comments: Increased stability in an oil phase, (polyethylene), and water phase, (Na polyacry late), simultaneously. Low melt point range makes addition possible during cool down, which enhances the texture of emulsions. Add 5-10% in water and create emulsifier-flee gels.

Jeethix AW-2

INCI: Polyethylene, sodium polyacrylate

Suggested use levels: 1-10%

Applications: Skin care, personal care, hair care, color cosmetics

Comments: Increased stability in an oil phase, (polyethylene), and water phase, (Na polyacrylate), simultaneously. Low melt point range makes addition possible during cool down, which enhances the texture of emulsions. Add 5-10% in water and create emulsifier flee gels.

Jeesilc DMBF Aquabase

INCI: Dimethicone, cetyl PEG/PPG-10 dimethicone, bis-vinyl dimethicone/dimethicone copolymer

Suggested use levels: 7.5-12.5%

Applications: Skin care, personal care, hair care, color cosmetics

Comments: Easy to use silicone polymer and emulsifier blend. Create that silicone feel in an emulsion with a low level of polymer. Combine with Jeethix AW-1 or AW-2 and feel the difference in your emulsions.

Kewpie Corporation

Tokyo, Japan

Tel: +81-3-3486-3338




INCI: Hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid

Suggested use levels: 0.02-1.0%

Applications: Lotion, emulsion, cream, gel, serum, hair mist

Comments: Hyalo-oligo is a unique and innovative hyaIuronic acid with a molecular weight of less than 10,000 Da. Its nano-sized molecules allow it to easily penetrate the skin's horny layer or the hair's cortex to offer exceptionally long-lasting moisture retention.


INCI: Hydroxypropyltrimonium hyaluronate

Suggested use levels: 0.02-1.0%

Applications: Lotion, emulsion, cream, gel, serum, shampoo, hair treatment

Comments: Hyaloveil-P is a uniquely innovative, adhesive hyaluronic acid that is partly cationized so that it is not easily washed away. Its adhesive property makes it possible to remain after cleansing, allowing the skin and hair to remain moist and lustrous.

Laboratoires Serobiologiques

A Division of Cognis France

U.S./Canada/Mexico: Contact: Sean Maguire


Cognis Corporation

Ambler, PA

Phone: (800) 668 6023, ext. 251



Skinasensyl LS 9749

INCI: Water (and) glycerin (and) coco-glucoside (and) acetyl tetrapeptide-15

Suggested use levels: 1-3%

Applications: Products for sensitive skin, men's skin care, anti-stress skin care products, cosmeceutical ranges

Comments: Skinasensyl is a new cosmeceutical active ingredient with a targeted mechanism of action for sensitive skin. This tetrapeptide increases the tolerance threshold of the skin by decreasing exaggerated nerve stimulation.

Eterniskin LS 9881

INCI: Grifola frondosa fruiting body extract (and) maltodextrin

Suggested use levels: 1-1.5%

Applications: Anti-aging, firming skin care; anti-stress, regenerating skin care; cosmetic ranges with a (healthy) food theme

Comments: Eterniskin is an extract from the maitake mushroom (Grifola frondosa gray), well known and used for its health benefits since ancient times in Asia. It acts on two major pathways of aging: by counteracting (oxidative) stress and by stimulating different essential collagens of the dermis and the dermo-epidermal junction (DEJ), thus compensating the age-related decrease in collagens and maintaining a high quality of the DEJ and dermis. The newly synthesized collagens can act as endogenous fillers, pluming up the skin from the inside out.

Radianskin PW LS 9918

INCI: Hydroxyphenoxy propionic acid

Suggested use levels: 0.5-1%

Applications: Skin lightening ranges; anti-aging, skin radiance enhancing skin care products; anti age spot creams and serums.

Comments: Radianskin is a pure molecule with a mechanism of action other than tyrosinase inhibition. It has no color impact on the formulation and a good safety profile. Radianskin helps protect the skin against damage by UV irradiation and has a clinically proven skin lightening effect.

Lincoln Fine Ingredients

Lincoln, RI

Tel: (401) 722-2410



Linessential CO

INCI: Camelina sativa seed oil

Suggested use levels: 0.05-6%

Applications: Skin care, lip care and hair care

Comments: Lincoln's Camelina Seed Oil is from Lincoln's certified domestic fields (CDF). Camelina Oil is high in essential fatty acids linoleic acids and alpha linoleic acid for skin care products. Linessential CO is certified by the Natural Products Association (NPA).

Linowax OSB

INCI: Vaccinium macrocarpon (cranberry) seed oil and helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed wax/oil

Suggested use levels: 1-6%

Applications: Exfoliate for body wash, facial scrubs, foot scrubs and cleansing products.

Comments: 100% natural and Natural Product Association (NPA) certified wax beads made from cranberry seed oil and sunflower seed wax. Can be used in many different personal care products designed for exfoliation.

Linowax Natural E

INCI: Behnyi alcohol and polyglyceryl 3 stearate

Suggested use levels: 1.0-5.0%

Applications: Skin care

Comments: Naturally derived from rapeseed oil, this emulsifying wax is used to create creamy, very light skin care products.

Lipo Chemicals, Inc.

Paterson, NJ

Tel: (973) 345 8600



Orgasol Restore

INCI: Polyamide-5 (and) olive glycerides (and) ceramide-3

Suggested use levels: 1-5%

Applications: Anti-aging, color cosmetics and skin care

Comments: Orgasol Restore through delivery of ceramide-3 increases the ceramide content in the lipid bilayers of the skin, reduces transepidermal water loss and reduces fine lines and wrinkles.

Orgasol Pure

INCI: Nylon 12 and sodium lactic acid

Suggested use levels: 1-5%

Applications: Anti-aging, skin care and facial cleansers

Comments: Orgasol Pure delivers lactic acid to the skin reducing sebum levels when used in facial cleansers and provides exfoliation and anti-aging properties in skin care creams and lotions.


Barcelona, Spain

Exclusive North American Distributor: Centerchem, Inc.

Norwalk, CT

Tel: (203) 822-9800




INCI: Water (aqua), propanediol, lysine HCl, lecithin, tripeptide-9 citrulline

Suggested use levels: 2-5%

Applications: Anti-aging formulations, antiglycation/DNA protection formulations

Comments: dGlyage prevents DNA structure changes triggered by transition metals, dGlyage chelates such ion metals that catalyze different reactions that produce several DNA lesions.


INCI: Glycerin, acetyl dipeptide-13 diphenyl glycine

Suggested use levels: 4%

Applications: Anti-aging formulations, skin firming formulations

Comments: Relistase is a tetrapeptide that inhibits elastase activity and stimulates type I collagen synthesis, thereby enhancing skin elasticity and tightness. Relistase increases resilience and tightness, especially in mature skin, which becomes less elastic and less resistant to deformation.


INCI: Water (aqua), acetyl hexapeptide-25*, arginine, caprylyl glycol * INCI proposal

Suggested use levels: 5%

Applications: Anti-wrinkle formulations Comments: Inyline is a hexapeptide that targets the agrin/MuSK post-synaptic pathway acting as a competitive antagonist of MuSK (Muscle-Specific Kinase) at the agrin binding site. This results in modulation of muscle contraction, which leads to muscle relaxation and a reduction in expression wrinkles.


INCI: Macelignan

Suggested use levels: 0.1-0.25%

Applications: Anti-aging formulations, eye/lip contouring formulations, facial firming formulations

Comments: Noline consists of Macelignan, an active ingredient from nutmeg. Noline causes cells from adipose tissue to increase in volume, thereby allowing wrinkles to become less visible, naturally and safely.

Lubrizol Advanced Materials / Noveon Consumer Specialties

Cleveland, OH

Tel: (800) 379-5389, (216) 447 5000



Glucamate DOE-120 Thickener

INCI: PEG-120 methyl glucose dioleate

Suggested use levels: 0.25-0.75% for sulfate based formulations; 2.0-5.0% for sulfate-free formulations.

Applications: Shower gels and liquid soaps

Comments: Many surfactants commonly used to formulate baby and elder care products can irritate the skin. Glucamate thickeners interact with surfactant molecules through an associative mechanism, decreasing the irritancy of the formulation while imparting a smooth, desirable rheology and light, pleasant afterfeel.

Carbopol Ultrez 10 Polymer

INCI: Carbomer

Suggested use levels: 0.25-1.00% TS use level

Applications: Skin creams and lotions, facial creams and lotions, sunscreens, after-sun products

Comments: Carbopol Ultrez 10 polymer provides high viscosity with short flow properties along with exceptional stabilization and suspension properties. These properties are provided effectively across a broad pH range, providing formulation flexibility across many different applications. in addition to thickening and stabilizing emulsion systems, Carbopol Ultrez 10 imparts a light, refreshing sensory experience to skin care formulations. Ideally suited for applications such as serums, after-sun products and other formulations where a heavy, creamy feel is undesirable.

Novethix L-10 Polymer

INCI: Acrylates/beheneth-25 methacrylate copolymer

Suggested use levels: 0.5-2.5% total solids

Applications: Economy (low surfactant) clear bath gels, shampoos, and facial cleansers, pearlized body washes and shampoos, mild, sulfate-free, amide-free shower gels, shampoos, and facial cleansers, high oil-loaded body wash emulsions

Comments: Novethix L-10 polymer is a highly efficient hydrophobically modified alkali-swellable emulsion polymer (Hyper-HASE) designed for structuring most cleansing formulations containing anionic, nonionic and zwitterionic suffactants. It is particularly effective for thickening and controlling the theology of the most difficult to thicken surfactant based personal cleansing systems.

LycoRed Corp.

Orange, NJ



Lyc-O-Mato XP

INCI: Solanium lycopersicum (tomato) fruit lipids

Suggested use levels: Sun care, 0.30-0.50%; skin care, 0.30-0.50%; lip care, 0.50 1.00%; makeup, 0.50-0.75%; hair care: 0.05-0.20%.

Applications: Highly potent antioxidant for use in topical cosmetics. Lower coloration effects. Recommended for use in sun care, skin care, hair care, lip care and makeup. Ideal for use in combination with sun care products for added activity against environmental stress.

Comments: A natural extract of red, ripe tomatoes. Rich in lycopene, alpha-carotene, beta-carotene and tocopherols. Contains high levels of phytoene and phytofluene for added protection. Quenches free radicals generated by UV and visible light. Provides broad spectrum protection against free radicals damage. Enhances natural defenses against environmental stress.

Lyc-O-Rose Oil

INCI: Rosemarinus officinalis (rosemary)

Suggested use levels: Nutri-cosmetics, 5-10 mg per day; skin care, 0.30-0.50%; sun care, 0.30-0.50%; lip care, 0.20 0.30%; hair care, 025-0.40%.

Applications: A potent and stable antioxidant for use in food, nutri-cosmetics and topical cosmetics for protection against environmental stress (UV induced skin reactions, free radicals, smoke, pollution) and oxidation. Does not impart coloration to products.

Comments: A natural, potent and stable antioxidant with high levels of carnosic acid, an oil soluble antioxidant. Provides exceptional stability to unstable compounds and formulations.

Presperse LLC

Somerset, NJ

Tel: (732) 356-5200



Pellicer L-30

INCI: Sodium dilauramidogiutamide lysine and Water

Suggested use levels: 0.1-1.0%

Applications: Skin and hair care

Comments: An all-natural, liquid crystal emulsifier, which offers unique performance in the following ways: excellent dispersion at low use levels; liquid crystal formation in emulsions; biological activity to repair damaged skin or hair.


INCI: N- acetyl-L -hydroxyproline

Suggested use levels: 1-3%

Applications: Skin and hair care

Comments: A unique amino acid produced through the fermentation of natural sugars. Clinical tests have shown full penetration of the skin, elevation of collagen synthesis, improved skin elasticity and overall strengthening of the skin's barrier properties to combat pollution.

Aqupec SER W-150

INCI: Acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer

Suggested use levels: 0.2-1.0%

Applications: Skin care, hair care and anti-aging

Comments: The Aqupec SER range is composed of two new polymeric additives with excellent thickening and transparency when neutralized, even under high concentrations of electrolytes! Now you can thicken solutions containing over 4% salt, still retain substantial clarity, and achieve stable viscosities over 10,000 mPa.s. By choosing between Aqupec SER W150 and Aqupec SER W300, you can even formulate at pH ranges as low as 4.5 to as high as 12, and still overcome relatively high electrolyte levels.

Provital, Spain

Exclusive North American Distributor: Centerchem, Inc.

Norwalk, CT

Tel: (203) 822-9800




INCI: Macadamia ternifolia seed oil, macelignan

Suggested use levels: 2-5%

Applications: Breast and buttock enhancing formulations, anti aging hand formulations, complement for breast firming products

Comments: Voluplus contains the active ingredient found in nutmeg called Macelignan, solubilized in macacadamia oil. This active ingredient acts naturally and safely on cells, which retain corporal fat, leading to breast development.


INCI: Propanediol, water, zizyphus spinosa seed extract, phytoecdysteroids

Suggested use levels: 2-4%

Applications: Facial firming/remodeling formulations, intensive treatments for mature skin

Comments: Zirhafirm is a synergistic combination of rhaponticum carthamoides (maral root) phytoecdysteroids and triterpenic derivatives of zizyphus spinosa, which recovers and maintains skin firmness and elasticity. The action of Zirhafirm on the DEJ components improves the cohesion, anchoring and relation between skin compartments, which directly improves the biomechanical properties of skin.

Rovi Cosmetics International GmbH

Schluchtern, Germany

Tel: +49(0)6661 96760




INCI: Water, alcohol, lecithin, behentrimonium chloride, isoniacinamide, glyceryl glucoside, tocopherol, resveratrol, potassium phosphate

Suggested use levels: 3-5%

Applications: Skin care formulations, e.g. creams, lotions, gels, ointments, masks, peelings, tonics and shower gels.

Comments: An active combination proven to activate the skin's longevity genes, the sirtuins. Ineocell technology, a novel cell targeted delivery mechanism, has proven to deliver Vivendin directly into the epidermal cells where the sirtuins are located in order to promote cell longevity.
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Publication:Household & Personal Products Industry
Geographic Code:4EUGE
Date:May 1, 2010
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