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Lemon and Prawns is the new star turn Lemon and Prawns is the new star turn is the new star turn.

Byline: Food Andy Hirst

HE Star pub in Fenay Bridge is a place I must have passed thousands of times yet never been in.

TIt's now been transformed into a plush new fish and seafood restaurant and within three weeks of it opening someone pointed it out as a place we'd need to try so we did.

I'm not sure what The Star looked like inside but it's clear the moment you step through the door that it's undergone major investment.

You're immediately under an imposing stained glass ceiling then step on to an ultra-comfortable carpet.

Look around and all the furniture is a rustic (you could even say New England) white, while craftsman must have spent many an hour renovating and polishing the wood on the walls.

And it was warm. Mrs Hirst doesn't like being cold. I've energy bills proving that beyond even unreasonable doubt.

I'd not normally go into details about the toilets but they're worth a visit to the gents to see the pebble tiles - you'll never have seen anything like those before - and the urinals are even lit up with white lights down the side.

There's been a meticulous eye cast over all this but will it continue into the food? Starters range from PS4 to PS6.50 while the mains vary from PS9.20 up to PS22 for a halibut steak. What a whopper. Hope it's a big 'un. Anyway, we thought smaller, opting for the Fresh Scottish mussels in garlic white wine with creme fraiche - but it turned out they'd sold out. All the lobster had gone too. Not items a fish restaurant would really want to fall short of I'd have thought.

So it was the trio of salmon and lemon mayonnaise (PS5.50): gravalax salmon, oak-smoked salmon and sweet cured salmon with lemon mayonnaise and brioche toast for me, while Ruth opted for king prawns and lemon: panfried king prawns in a white wine with garlic and olive oil (PS6.25).

The salmon was fine - it just flaked away on the fork - and gravalax salmon is always a treat, but I was certainly drawn to Ruth's starter which for PS3 more you could have as a main. It came with fresh bread and it's hard, nay impossible, not to nick some and dip it in to that tangy, garlic sauce. The king prawns were truly regal - big, flavoursome fellas.

Other starters include chicken satay and peanut sauce, calamari and king prawn tempura, goats cheese and figs tart and, another for vegetarians, breaded aubergine and tsastiki.

Mains were Goan fish curry (PS18.95) featuring monkfish, king prawns, Goan masala sauce, French beans, basmati rice and a poppadum on the side covered in mango coulis. The other was Courvoisier beef stroganoff (PS15.25) - strips of fillet beef in Brandy with wild mushrooms, French mustard and cream and basmati rice.

The curry was green, earthy and the green beans were an inspired addition. Very much underated is your humble French green bean and should be used far more in everyday cooking. The curry has something of a peppery kick and I'd be inclined to pop the mango in a side dish rather than cover the poppadum in it. Then you can dip it rather than drown it.

The stroganoff was a cracking example of a classic dish - robust, fully rounded with just the right level of spiciness and the beef ultra tender.

Other mains include grilled cod and oyster (PS17.50), duck confit with paprika sauteed potatoes and braised red cabbage (PS16.95), grilled half lobster with chunky chips (PS19.95), large halibut steak with ginger and lime marinade and anchovy pesto (PS22), Thai vegetables green curry (PS12.95), ribeye steak with Bearnaise sauce (PS18.95) and pan fried seabass (PS15.50).

Dessert - or pudding if you're from Hudders-field - was a shared affair of tarte tatin served hot with vanilla ice-cream and salty caramel sauce. Chewy, tangy, with the fruit oozing sweetness, it hit the spot - or what was left of it - after everything we'd eaten before.

All the puddings are PS5.50 and include creme brulee, trio of chocolate and vanilla pana cotta.

In short, great surroundings, some of the mains rather pricey but we'd go again and probably have the mussels and the king prawns as main dishes.

The stroganoff was a cracking example of a classic dish: robust, fully rounded, with just the right level of spiciness and the beef ultra tender.

CAPTION(S):

starters: Above, panfried king prawns in a |white wine with garlic and olive oil and below, a trio of salmon and lemon mayonnaise starter

Mains: Above, Courvoisier beef | stroganoff and below, goan fish curry

Enjoy the delights at Lemon & Prawns fish restaurant (formerly The |Star) Penistone Road, Fenay Bridge 241014CLEMON JULIAN HUGHES
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Publication:Huddersfield Daily Examiner (Huddersfield, England)
Date:Oct 31, 2014
Words:795
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