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Kansas imagination and a fry cook's recipe.

You can eat no higher on the hog than pork tenderloin. (Let's leave boar's head out of the discussion as not only archaic, but too seasonal also.) The tenderloin is what would otherwise be the tenderest portion of pork loin chops; it's also, as pork merchants remind us, the other white meat.

Bud Starr sends us a recipe that goes back to his college days in Kansas. He worked as a fry cook in a restaurant whose house specialty was breaded pork tenderloin sandwiches. The following version shows what Kansas imagination can do with rather pedestrian ingredients.

Bud's Best Breaded Pork Tenders

About 1 1/2 pounds pork

tenderloin, fat trimmed

About 18 saltine

crackers (2 in. square) 1/2 teaspoon dried rubbed

sage (optional)

1 large egg

2 tablespoons water

About 2 tablespoons

salad oil

8 to 10 large butter

lettuce leaves, rinsed

and crisped

4 or 5 English muffins,

split and toasted

Apple butter, apple

sauce, or tomato-based

chili sauce


Cut meat crosswise into 8 to 10 equal pieces. Place pieces between sheets of plastic wrap and pound with a flat mallet until evenly 1/8 to 1/4 inch thick (if making ahead, roll pounded meat in plastic, seal in a plastic bag, and chill up to a day).

Crush crackers to fine crumbs in a food processor or blender; you should have 3/4 to 1 cup. Put in a shallow pan; mix in sage.

In a shallow bowl, beat egg and water to blend. Dip meat, a slice at a time, into egg mixture, drain briefly, and turn in crumbs, pressing crumbs lightly onto meat.

Pour 2 teaspoons oil into a 10- to 12-inch frying pan over medium-high heat. When oil is hot, add pork to fill pan; brown slices and cook until meat is no longer pink in center (cut to test), about 6 minutes. Lift out and keep warm; repeat until all meat is cooked, adding oil as needed to prevent sticking.

Lay a lettuce leaf on each toasted muffin half; set meat on leaves. Serve open-faced with apple butter and salt to taste. Makes 8 to 10 sandwiches, 4 or 5 servings.

Per sandwich: 392 cal.; 35 g protein; 12 g fat (2.4 g sat.); 34 g carbo.; 483 mg sodium; 131 mg chol.


Hick chic--a lifestyle much in evidence in the West--has been defined as wearing a down vest, driving a pickup truck, and owning a personal computer. People who are into (if that is the idiom) hick chic live in the country, but not too far from the city. This bucolic frame of mind has opened the door for a cuisine with rustic American roots but sophisticated details. Bill Solice's Fresh Corn Pancakes are a fine example.

Fresh Corn Pancakes

3 large ears corn, or 2

cups (10-oz. package)

frozen corn kernels

1 large egg 1/2 cup diced red bell

pepper 1/3 cup milk

2 tablespoons melted

butter or margarine

3 tablespoons cornmeal 1/2 cup all-purpose flour 1 1/2 teaspoons each sugar

and baking powder 1/8 teaspoon ground


Salad oil

Sour cream and

jalapeno jelly (optional)


Cut corn kernels and scrape milk from cobs; you should have about 2 cups. Put kernels in a bowl and add egg, bell pepper, milk, and butter; mix well.

Stir together cornmeal, flour, sugar, baking powder, and nutmeg. Mix dry ingredients with corn mixture.

Place a griddle or 12-inch frying pan over medium-high heat. When griddle is hot, brush lightly with salad oil, then drop batter onto griddle in 1/4-cup portions about 4 inches apart. With a spoon, spread batter to form 4-inch-wide rounds. Cook pancakes until dry-looking on top and browned on the bottom; turn with a wide spatula. Remove from griddle when brown on second side. Slightly overlap cakes on a platter and keep warm; repeat to cook remaining batter.

Offer pancakes with sour cream, jelly, and salt to add to taste. Makes 9 pancakes, 3 or 4 servings. Per pancake: 108 cal.; 3.2 g protein; 4 g fat (2.1 g sat.); 16 g carbo.; 93 mg sodium; 32 mg chol.

San Bruno, California

To use our nutrition information

Sunset recipes contain nutrition information based on the most current data available from the USDA for calorie count; grams of protein, total fat (including saturated fat), and carbohydrate; and milligrams of sodium and cholesterol.

This analysis is usually given for a single serving, based on the largest number of servings listed for the recipe. Or it's for a specific amount, such as per tablespoon (for sauces), or by a unit, as per cookie.

The nutrition analysis does not include optional ingredients or those for which no specific amount is stated salt added to taste, for example). If an ingredient is listed with an alternative--such as unflavored yogurt or sour cream--the figures are calculated using the first choice. Likewise, if a range is given for the amount of an ingredient (such as 1/2 to 1 cup butter), values are figured on the first, lower amount.

Recipes using regular-strength chicken broth are based on the sodium content of salt-free homemade or canned broth. If you use canned salted chicken broth, the sodium content will be higher.
COPYRIGHT 1992 Sunset Publishing Corp.
No portion of this article can be reproduced without the express written permission from the copyright holder.
Copyright 1992 Gale, Cengage Learning. All rights reserved.

Article Details
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Title Annotation:Chefs of the West; recipes
Author:Dunmire, Richard; Griffiths, Joan
Article Type:Column
Date:Jul 1, 1992
Previous Article:Birthday torte: layers of ice cream.
Next Article:Spain in a bag.

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