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It's time for a spelling bee ... and late-summer tomatoes.

Catsup, a sauce often used to disguise the flavor of a hamburger, was originally spelled ketchup. But by one of those philogical accidents that occur now and then, this word was thought to be a proletarian mispronunciation of something more Anglo-Saxon, and so catsup was born. The word comes from Chinese ketsiap (meaning brine of pickled fish), which came from the Malay word, kechap.

Rodney Garside takes advantage of a large late-summer crop of tomatoes to make this catsup, or ketsiap, or kechap.

Homemade Catsup

0 pounds ripe tomatoes 1 large (about 1/2 lb.) onion, chopped 1 large (about 1/2 lb.) red bell pepper, stemmed, seeded, and chopped 1 teaspoon each celery seed, mustard seed, and whole allspice 1 cinnamon stick, about 2 inches long 3/4 cup sugar 1 cup distilled white vinegar 1 tablespoon paprika Salt

To peel tomatoes (if desired), immerse in boiling water for 4 to 5 seconds. Then remove from water and pull off skins. Core and quarter tomatoes into a 10- to 12-quarts pan. Add onion and bell pepper. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat, stirring frequently. Reduce heat and simmer, uncovered, until tomatoes mash readily, 20 to 25 minutes.

Whirl tomato mixture, a portion at a time, in a blender or food processor until smoothly pureed. Return mixture to pan and continue to boil gently, uncovered, until volume is reduced by half, about 1 hour and 45 minutes; stir occassionally.

Put celery seed, mustard seed, allspice, and the cinnamon stick on 2 stacked pieces of cheesecloth, each 6 inches square. Tie cloth to enclose spices; add to pan. Simmer 20 minutes. Remove spice bag and discard. Stir in sugar, vinegar, and paprika; continue to simmer, stirring frequently, until catsup is reduced to about 4 cups, 40 to 50 minutes. Add salt to taste. Let cool and use, or store in covered containers in the refrigerator for up to 3 weeks. Freeze to store longer. Makes about 1 quart.

Per tablespoon: 25 cal.; 0.7 g protein; 0.2 g fat (0 g sat.); 5.8 g carbo.; 5.5 mg sodium; 0 mg chol.

Rick Eastes' wilted greens with cilantro pesto is the apotheosis of greens; it snatches up edible but otherwise unremarkable foliage and creates a unique flavor. Once looked down upon as an element of the South's subsistence food, cooked or heated greens have become downright modish as a salad or a bedding for quail and other upscale comestibles in California cuisine.

Wilted Greens with Cilantro Pesto

1 1/2 tablespoons Oriental sesame oil 1 tablespoon curry oil or salad oil 1 1/2 teaspoons chili oil 3/4 cup lightly packed fresh cilantro (coriander), rinsed and drained 1 clove garlic 2 mild or hot Italian sausages, about 1/2 pound total 1/2 pound red Swiss chard, rinsed, leaves and stems trimmed apart and each thinly sliced 1 medium-size (about 5 oz.) red bell pepper, stemmed, seeded, and cut into thin slivers About 1/2 pound rapini (broccoli rabe) or Chinese broccoli (Chinese kale or gai laan), rinsed and drained, tough ends trimmed, and thinly sliced 4 baby bok choy (about 3/4 lb. total), ends trimmed, separated into leaves, rinsed and drained About 1/4 pound mache or butter lettuce, separated into leaves, rinsed and drained About 1/4 cup toasted nori silvers Soy sauce Lime wedges

In a blender or food processor, combine 1 tablespoon of the sesame oil with curry oil, chili oil, cilantro, and garlic. Whirl until pureed; set aside.

Remove sausage casings and crumble meat into a wok or a 5- to 6-quart pan. Stir often over high heat until sausage is well bronwed, about 10 minutes.

With a slotted spoon, transfer sausage to towels to drain. Discard drippings and wipe pan clean. Return pan to high heat. Add remaining sesame oil and swirl to coat pan. Add chard stems and red bell pepper; stir-fry 1 minute. Add chard leaves, rapini, and bok choy, stirring until greens are wilted (if pan gets full, stir until leaves begin to wilt, then add more), about 2 minutes. Mix in mache.

Pour into a bowl and immediately add cilantro mixture; mix well. Scatter sausage and nori on top of vegetables; serve at once with soy sauce and lime juice added to taste. Makes 6 servings.

Per serving: 182 cal.; 8.5 g protein; 14 g fat (3.4 g sat.); 6.3 g carbo.; 393 mg sodium; 22 mg chol.

Caviar on the buffet means serious, upwardly mobile entertaining--like having the boss for dinner--especially if the caviar you serve is the tiny gray or black kind, the priciest of foods, practically requiring a police escort home from the store.

Chef Lauterbach has devised a way of serving caviar that appeals even to those who ordinarily shun it. Since he did not specify which kind to use, our testers, seeking both economy and heightened esthetic appeal, tried tobiko (flying fish eggs). This roe is a brilliant amber-orange, mild in flavor, and intriguingly crunchy. You may, of course, use any other caviar--alone, or combined to create a tiger-stripe effect.

Caviar Torte

hard-cooked large eggs, finely chopped 3 tablespoons reduced-calorie mayonnaise or mayonnaise 1 1/2 cups chopped green onions, including tops 1 package (8 oz.) neufchatel (light cream) cheese 2/3 cup light sour cream 1 cup (about 8 oz.) tobiko (flying fish roe), rinsed in a fine strainer, drained, and chilled Parsley sprigs Lemon slices Crisp crackers or melba toast

With a fork, mix well the eggs, mayonnaise, onions, cheese, and sour cream. Spread evenly in a 9-inch cheesecake pan with removable rim. Cover and chill at least 4 hours, or up until next day.

With a spoon, drop tobiko in small dollops evenly over cheese mixture. Gently spread in a smooth layer, using a long spatula. Remove pan rim; place torte on a platter. Garnish with parsley and lemon slices. To eat, spoon mixture onto crackers. Makes about 5 cups, 16 to 20 servings.

Per serving: 90 cal.; 6.2 g protein; 6.6 g fat (3 g sat.); 1.8 g carbo.; 76 mg sodium; 118 mg chol.

Why call it green corn quiche? One good reason is that the chilies are green, but another meaning lurks within, perhaps not even suspected by John Perchorowicz, who sends in this recipe from Tucson.

The term "green corn" was used by earlier generations when they were talking about fresh, soft corn that could be roasted or boiled, as opposed to fully ripened, dry, hard corn that could be stored or ground into meal.

Green Corn Quiche

1 cup dehydrated masa flour (corn tortilla flour) 1/2 cup whole-wheat flour 1 teaspoon sugar 1 can (17 oz.) cream-style corn 4 large eggs 1 can (12 oz.) evaporated milk 1 tablespoon liquid hot pepper seasoning 1 teaspoon chili powder 2 cans (4 oz. each) diced green chilies 1 can (2 1/4 oz.) sliced ripe olives, drained 1/2 cup each shredded jack cheese and sharp cheddar cheese 1 cup thinly sliced green onions, including tops Salt Prepared salsa

In a bowl, mix masa flour, whole-wheat flour, sugar, and corn until well blended. Scrape into a greased 10-inch cheesecake pan with a removable rim. Spread or pat mixture evenly over the bottom and about 1 1/2 inches up the side of the pan. Bake crust in a 425 [degrees] oven for 10 minutes.

Meanwhile, beat eggs to blend with milk, hot pepper seasoning, chili powder, chilies, olives, jack cheese, cheddar cheese, and 1/2 cup of the onions.

Remove crust from oven; turn oven temperature to 375 [degrees]. Pour filling into crust. Bake until filling is set when pan is gently shaken, 40 to 45 minutes. Let stand for 10 minutes, sprinkle with remaining onions, then cut into wedges. Add salt and salsa to taste. Makes 6 to 8 servings.

Per serving: 229 cal.; 14 g protein; 12 g fat (4.7 g sat.) 36 g carbo.; 632 mg sodium; 134 mg chol.
COPYRIGHT 1991 Sunset Publishing Corp.
No portion of this article can be reproduced without the express written permission from the copyright holder.
Copyright 1991 Gale, Cengage Learning. All rights reserved.

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Date:Sep 1, 1991
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