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It's celebration timme at The Lemon Tree e; EATING OUT If you happen to be a coeliac and gluten intolerannt, you'll be particularly well served here.

Byline: Food LINDA WHITWAM

REACHING the ripe old age of 83 is certainly worthy of celebration. My father, by the way, not me.

How he's done it is a mystery to us all. For over eight decades he has been bombarded with healthy eating advice from the food police and has resolutely ignored it all. You have to admire his dedication.

His motto: "If it's green, it never passes my lips," has served him well over the years - he still walks the dog two or three times a day - and his idea of haute cuisine is to pop a Cornish pasty into the George Foreman grill. My sister, Carole, and I are going to donate his body to medical science so boffins in white coats can investigate how anyone can survive so long on a diet of processed food. (Before anyone reports us to Help The Aged, it's family joke and my Dad's in on it.) Undeterred by his entrenched views - and his disbelief at the price of eating out these days - we decided to take him out for a celebratory meal anyway.

The world was our oyster. Our restaurant of choice had to meet just one criterion: it had to serve margherita pizzas. And after some deliberation we plumped for the Lemon Tree Trattoria in Honley.

After finally finding a place to park, we left the narrow cobbled streets and picturesque stone cottages behind to enter into a metropolitan cafe-style interior with terracotta floor and pale green walls, where smart steel and leather chairs graced granite tables. Despite the lack of soft furnishings, the interior was bright and attractive and the lowered ceiling helped to create a buzzy atmosphere.

The Trattoria, as it was originally called, was set up - along with Mustard and Punch - by Roux Scholarship winner Scott Hessel, formerly of the Old Bore at Ripponden fame. Current owner Daniel Tatlock took over and changed the name in July 2008.

Since then, he has built up a thriving village business, and if you happen to be a coeliac and gluten intolerant, you'll be particularly well served here. Daniel's sister Joanna suffers and the restaurant offers gluten-free pasta, pizza and bread.

The waitress showed us to the upstairs bar - the only area not accessible by wheelchair - and we marked the auspicious occasion by kicking off with a bottle of Prosecco between the four of us. (As I explained to my father, it would have been champagne, but for the limits of the Examiner budget.) Our waitress brought us some juicy Mediterranean olives. When Carole suggested Dad might like to try one as part of his five-a-day, he replied that he doesn't have five a month, so we didn't push it. The list of blackboard specials was impressive, with a leaning towards fresh seafood. We ordered an eclectic mix of haddock and spring onion fishcakes, crayfish tails in a Marie Rose sauce, tempura of hake fillet and a garlic bread with cheese.

We had to carry our own drinks to the table and were not asked if we wanted to taste the bottle of wine we ordered at the table. Other than that, the service was pretty good, even when the restaurant filled to bursting later on.

The generous portion of fishcakes were the pick of the starters, with a fine balance of flavours and a pleasant textual contrast between the crispy coating and the softer piscatory mash inside. The crayfish tails lacked a little flavour and the tempura batter, which is made with water and at its best is sublimely light and airy, was a little on the heavy side. The cheesy garlic bread was piping hot and tasty and quickly disappeared.

The main courses again arrived in large portions, and the linguine con gamberoni (PS9.95) pasta was awash with king prawns, dressed with a little chilli, white wine and herbs. The tagliatelle with sauteed chicken, mushrooms and garlic (PS8.75) was competent rather than outstanding. There was plenty of taste in there, but hard to distinguish individual flavours.

My father thought the margherita pizza was as "very nice" and possibly as good as Da Sandro's. Praise doesn't come any higher than that.

VERDICT: A good family night out. I'd be happy if the Lemon Tree was in my village.

Th he bill The e Lemon Tree Tra attoria 7 Chu Honle urch St, ey, HD9 6AH Tel: 0 660004 01484 4 Webs www.l ite: emontreetrattoria.com Openi 5pm to ing hours: Monday to Saturday o 10pm, Sunday 3pm to 9pm Children: Welcome Disabbled: Yes The bill: PS15 a head excluding drinks Would d you go back? Yes

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| MODERN AND VIBRANT: The interior of The Lemon Honley, was bright and attractive and the lowered ceiling n Tree Trattoria at Church Street, Helped to create a buzzy atmosphere Pictures by Paul Welch (PW100413Blemon)
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Title Annotation:Features
Publication:Huddersfield Daily Examiner (Huddersfield, England)
Date:Apr 19, 2013
Words:807
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