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Into his fresh trout goes a confetti of chopped vegetables.

Some gastronomes insist that trout need only be garnished with butter and almonds. Others say the only way to go is truite au bleu: you dispatch the fish, eviscerate it swiftly, and drop it at once into simmering court bouillon with a little vinegar. Still others claim that trout tastes right only when fried in a pan beside the stream in which it recently swam.

Then there are those bold Chefs of the West who ignore such dogmas and instead treat trout as proper subjects for culinary experimentation. philip Cosco is one of these. He stuffs his trout with a confetti of chopped vegetables mixed with wine and salad dressing. His recipe is suited to a back-yard barbecue or campground grill. Calico Stuffed Trout

6 whole trout (3/4 to 1 lb. each), pan dressed

1 clove garlic, halved

1/2 cup each finely chopped red and green bell pepper, onion, celery, and carrot

2 Tablespoons each dry white wine and white wine vinegar

1/3 cup salad oil

1/2 teaspoon each dry basil, dry oregano leaves, and salt

1/4 teaspoon pepper Lemon wedges

Rinse trout and pat dry, then rub garlic halves over the inside cavity of each; discard garlic. Place each trout on an 8- by 12-inch greased piece of heavy foil. Set aside while preparing stuffing.

In a bowl, combine the red and green pepper, onion, celery, carrott. In a separate bowl, mix together the wine, vinegar, oil, basil, oregano, salt, and pepper.

Evenly spoon vegetable mixture into the cavity of each trout and drizzle with some of the herb mixture. Seal foil securely to enclose trout.

To barbecue, place foil packets of trout on a grill 4 to 6 inches above a solid bed of hot glowing coals. Cook 8 to 10 minutes on each side or until fish flakes easily when prodded with a fork in the thickest portion (open foil to check). Serve with lemon wedges to squeeze over individual servings. Makes 6 servings.

A student of recycling, Rodney Garside incorporates a choice of leftover meats into a chef's salad that he proposes as a main course. A hint from the chef: it helps to have a nice sharp knife. Recycle Salad

3/4 pound spinach

1/3 Cup thinly sliced green onion

2-1/2 cups cauliflowerets

3 cups cold cooked chicken, turkey, or ham (bones and skin removed), cut into julienne strips

2 medium-size tomatoes, cored and cut into thin wedges

Lemon dressing (recipe follows)

Salt and pepper

Discard tough spinach stems and leaves. Wash tender leaves well and pat dry. Stack about 12 leaves at a time and, with a sharp knife, cut into shreds about 1/2 inch wide. Place spinach in a large bowl and top with onion.

Cut cauliflowerets through stems into thin slices. Add cauliflower and meat to spinach mixture. Continue, or cover and chill up to 4 hours.

Add tomatoes and dressing to salad; mix to coat all ingredients. And salt and pepper to taste. Makes 4 to 6 servings.

Lemon dressing. In a small bowl, stir together 1/4 cup salad oil, 2 tablespoons lemon juice, and 1/2 teaspoon each dry basil, dry thyme leaves, and dry mustard.

Larry Urmini's oddly named Pucia-Pucia is a fresh herb mixture that enhances the flavor of barbecued meat and fowl. Or does it enhance the aroma? Actually, it does both since aromatic herbs are employed. Oil and sauces bind the many flavors into a complex blend. Pucia-Pucia

2 tablespoons minced parsley

1 tablespoon minced fresh sage leaves

2 teaspoons minced fresh rosemary leaves

1-1/2 teaspoons minced fresh oregano leaves

1 teaspoon minced fresh thyme leaves

1 teaspoon minced or pressed garlic

2 tablespoons each olive or salad oil, soy sauce, and Worcestershire

1/4 teaspoon pepper

3 to 4 pounds chicken pieces, pork spareribs, or steak

In a small bowl, combine parsley, sage, rosemary, oregano, thyme, garlic, oil, soy, Worcestershire, and pepper; set aside.

Barbecue your choice of chicken, ribs, or steak; 5 minutes before removing meat from grill, brush liberally on all sides with herb mixture. Pour any remaining mixture over meat when served. Makes about 1/2 cup, enough for 3 to 4 pounds of meat.

It is the habit of food writers to discuss the richer desserts--especially ones made of chocolate--in puritanical language: such words as tempting, sinful, and wicked come too readily to their lips.

We prefer to think of chocolate desserts as civilized, meaning that they enrich life rather than merely sustain it. And no desserts are more civilized, more a product of craft than of nature, than chocolate truffles. As works of triumphant artificiality they compare with Faberge's jeweled Easter eggs. Sometimes they seem nearly as costly.

If you're willing to invest the time and the care, you can make your own truffles by following the recipe of Chef Dan Devaney. They'll be as good as--perhaps better than--any you can buy and far less expensive. Dan's Hazelnut Chocolate Truffles

1 Cup hazelnuts (filberts)

1 cup whipping cream

8 ounces semisweet chocolate, finely chopped

1-1/4 pounds white chocolate (also called white candy coating), finely chopped

1 tablespoon butter or margarine

3 tablespoons hazelnut-flavored liqueur or whipping cream

Place nuts in a rimmed 10- by 15-inch baking pan. Bake in a 350[deg.] oven until nuts are golden beneath skin, 8 to 10 minutes; shake pan occasionally. Pour nuts into a towel and rub with cloth to remove as much of the skin as possible. Lift nuts from brown bits of skin and whirl nuts in a food processor or blender until finely chopped. Set nuts aside.

In a 1-1/2- to 2-quart pan, heat 1 cup whipping cream to simmering. Remove from heat and stir in the semisweet chocolate, 1/4 pound of the white chocolate, and the butter. Stir until chocolate and butter are melted and mixture is smooth. Stir in liqueur and chopped nuts. Cover and chill until mixture is firm, about 4 hours.

Shape chocolate mixture into 3/4-inch balls, using about 1 teaspoon for each. Place balls on a rimmed pan and freeze, uncovered, until hard, about 2 hours or overnight.

To coat the truffles, place the remaining white chocolate in the top of a double boiler. Stir over hot water until melted and coating registers 100[deg.] on a candy thermometer.

Pour white chocolate into a rimmed 10- by 15-inch baking pan (do not allow steam or water to touch chocolate) and let cool to 80[deg.]; coating may seem thick at first but will thin out as it cools.

Remove a few centers from freezer; drop them one at a time into the chocolate and turn with your fingers to coat all sides. Pick up and let excess coating drip off, then place truffles slightly apart on another 10- by 15-inch baking sheet lined with wax paper. Let stand until coating hardens, about 5 minutes, or refrigerate. Repeat to coat remaining chocolate centers.

Serve; or package in layers, separated by wax paper, in airtight containers and refrigerate as long as a week. Makes about 6 dozen truffles.
COPYRIGHT 1984 Sunset Publishing Corp.
No portion of this article can be reproduced without the express written permission from the copyright holder.
Copyright 1984 Gale, Cengage Learning. All rights reserved.

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Title Annotation:includes recipes
Date:Jun 1, 1984
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