Installing a handicap ramp.
Ramp prices depend on the overall length, the number of landings, the materials (wood or aluminum), and whether you build it yourself or hire a contractor. You can build one yourself for a materials price of about $35 per lin. ft., or hire a ramp contractor to build it for you in a day or two for about $100 per lin. ft.
Prefabricated aluminum sections cost about $100 per lin. ft., and you can assemble the sections yourself. But they take a while to order and ship. Or you can hire a company to design and install an aluminum ramp for about $150 per lin. ft. You can get ramp design advice, contractor referrals, help from community volunteers and even financial assistance from more than 350 nonprofit organizations nationwide. Just search online for "ramp project (your state)" to find them for your location.
We've seen some pretty scary DIY ramps, so we contacted the experts at the Metropolitan Center for Independent Living, publishers of the booklet "How to Build Ramps for Home Accessibility" ($20 for the booklet and DVD from mcil-mn.org/index.php/programs/ramp-project). They referred us to Warren Moe Construction, a ramp contractor in Minneapolis. Warren walked us through the basics of building a wood ramp and let us know the most common DIY ramp-building mistakes. With basic carpentry skills and a miter saw, router, drill, level and framing nailer, you can build your own ramp. Here's the process.
Measure and design
Start by measuring the distance from the threshold to the ground at the most accessible exterior door. Then determine the preliminary ramp length. A gentle 1:20 slope (1 in. of rise requires 20 in. of run length) is best for ease of use but requires a longer, more expensive ramp. If your yard isn't large enough to accommodate that length, add switchbacks and landings or build a ramp with a slightly steeper grade (the steepest ramp slope allowed is 1:12). Follow ramp-building guidelines and adjust the ramp length and slope to account for grade changes in your yard.
Get approvals and permits
Most building codes require a permit and inspection if the ramp is 30 in. or more above the ground. In addition, some locations require frost-proof footings for permanently installed ramps, while others allow you to set the ramp on treated plywood pads if it's for temporary use. Plus, many homeowner associations require design and material preapproval before you can start the project. Check all those requirements and get all your approvals and permits well before any trips to the lumberyard.
Build the ramp in modules
Building the ramp in place with long spans is a common DIY mistake. Long spans are harder to adjust and impossible to reconfigure if the original design proves unworkable. Instead, build individual modules and bolt them together at the vertical supports. Later on, you can disassemble and sell the modules to recoup your investment when the ramp is no longer needed.
Mind the gap
The two most important areas on a ramp are where the upper landing butts up to the door threshold and where the ramp transitions to the ground. The upper landing must be level or within 3/8 in. of the threshold. A larger gap will abruptly stop the wheelchair's front wheels.
The important dimensions
Door landings should be large enough (at least 58 x 60 in.) to allow a wheelchair occupant to open the door and back up without rolling onto the sloped area. Allow extra elbow room (12 to 24 in.) on the handle side for out-swing doors. A 58 x 60-in. landing is adequate for 90-degree turns (Figure A), but must be 58 x 96 in. (Figure B) for 180-degree switchback turns. If the ramp includes long stretches, include an intermediate level landing as a rest area.
Making the ramp too narrow is also a common DIY mistake. The ramp must have at least 36-in. side-to-side clear space and a maximum 36-in. spacing from the ramp floor to the top of the handrails (Figure C).
Before you proceed, draw a detailed sketch of your ramp, showing ramp width, landing size and site location,
REPAIR OR REPLACE A CONDENSATE PUMP
In the summer, central air conditioning units remove moisture from the air. And in the winter, condensing gas furnaces generate an enormous amount of wastewater. Plus, if your furnace has a humidifier, it also drains off extra water. All that water has to go somewhere. In newer homes, it goes right into a nearby floor drain.
But many older homes don't have a floor drain next to the furnace. So furnace installers mount a condensate pump right on the furnace and route the drain line to a far-off sink or floor drain. If that pump fails, the water overflows the pump and spills onto the floor. That doesn't necessarily mean the pump is bad; the problem could be just algae buildup in the pump's check valve.
So start your diagnosis by unplugging the pump. Disconnect the drain line and empty the water into a bucket. Then remove the check valve and plug in the pump (Photo 1). If the pump doesn't work, buy a new one (about $60 from a home center or online HVAC store) and swap out the old one. However, if the pump works, you've got a stuck check valve.
Try cleaning the valve by soaking it in warm, soapy water. Then flush it. Clean out any remaining crud with compressed air and test it (Photo 2). If you can't remove all the crud or the valve is still stuck, replace it with a new valve (about $10 from the pump manufacturer's parts department). The furnace or A/C will continue to drain while you're waiting for the new part to arrive, so jury-rig a bucket system (Photo 3). Clean any algae buildup from inside the pump with soapy water and a brush before installing the new valve. Then install the new valve and test. To prevent algae clogs, place algae reduction tablets (such as Pan Tablets No. AC-912; $4 at homedepot.com) in the pump reservoir.
Remove a broken ceramic tile
You can remove a cracked ceramic tile by grinding out the surrounding grout and then smashing it to bits with a hammer. However, the brute force method can also break the bond between neighboring tiles and the tile backer board. Then you have a real mess. Here's a better way.
Start by removing the surrounding grout (Photo 1). Next drill holes in the tile with a 1/4-in. tungsten carbide bit (Photo 2). The holes loosen the tile's bond to the backer board. Then chisel out the tile (Photo 3). Scrape out any remaining thin-set material and install the replacement tile.
BY RICK MUSCOPLAT
MEET THE EXPERT
Warren Moe works with homeowners, accessibility organizations and volunteer groups to make homes more accessible. His company, Warren Moe Construction, builds wheelchair ramps, widens doorways and installs grab bars.
CALCULATE SLOPE AND END POINT
Use the slope formula to calculate the ramp's end point. Multiply the distance from the threshold to the ground by the preferred slope. That'll give you the ending point from the house (not the actual ramp length), if the ramp is built in a straight line. To determine the actual ramp length to calculate a bill of materials, find the square root of the sum of the rise height squared and the distance from the house squared. Then add the lengths of the landings.
Local codes trump our advice
Local building authorities have the final word on all designs and specifications. Don't wait until your ramp is built to discover that it doesn't meet your local codes. Get your plans reviewed by a local building inspector first so you don't have to redo your hard work.
ART DIRECTION MARCIA ROEPKE * PHOTOGRAPHY TOM FENENGA * TECHNICAL ART FRANK ROHRBACH III * CONSULTANT WARREN MOE CONSTRUCTION
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|Title Annotation:||HOME CARE + repair|
|Publication:||The Family Handyman|
|Date:||Jul 1, 2015|
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