In the navy bag.
Mystery solved! To celebrate our 15th anniversary, we took our blog readers on a 6-month adventure to create this versatile embroidered purse. Read on for an the how-tos and special tips!
MATERIALS * 1 yard of 52"-wide duck fabric (exterior) * 3/4 yard of cotton print fabric (interior) * 3/4 yard of heavyweight fusible interfacing & heavyweight cut-away fusible stabilizer * 1/2 yard of lightweight fusible interfacing * Chalk wheel or removable fabric pencil * Thread: all-purpose & embroidery * Needles: 90/14 embroidery & 90/14 universal * 1/4"-wide double-sided fusible web tape * 9"-long metal zipper * 11"-long metal separating zipper (or trim to size) * Two 9 1/4" lengths of 3/8"-diameter cording * Six 3/4"-wide D-rings * Two 3/4" swivel clasps * 45"-long, 1/4"-diameter dowel * Embroidery design (approx. 6"x9"; see "Design.") PREPARE * Download and print out the In the Navy Bag pattern from cmemag. com/freebies until Dec. 31, 2016. Find the pattern after the expiration date at shopsewitall.com. * From the duck cloth, cut one front panel, leaving an extra 1" beyond the perimeter for hooping. Cut two upper panels (designate one as the front and one as the back), one front-zipper panel, two front-side panels, one back panel, two back-side panels, one base, two interior panels, two side panels, one strap, four zipper panels, two handles, two strap tabs, four handle tabs and four handle ends. * From the heavyweight interfacing, cut two front-side panels, one front-zipper panel, two upper panels (designate one as the front and one as the back), one back panel, two side panels, two interior panels and two zipper panels. Trim 1/2" from each front-zipper panel long edge and the two zipper panel interfacing pieces. Fuse the corresponding interfacing pieces to the duck cloth pieces, following the manufacturer's instructions. * From the lining and mediumweight interfacing, cut two front and back linings, two side panels, one front-interior pocket, one back-interior pocket, one interior pocket and one base. Fuse the interfacing pieces to each corresponding lining piece, following the manufacturer's instructions. * Transfer all pattern markings using a chalk wheel or removable fabric pencil. EMBROIDER * Download the In the Navy Bag Front Panel embroidery design from cmemag.com/freebies. Load the design into the embroidery machine. * Thread the needle and bobbin with matching embroidery thread. Fuse a piece of cut-away stabilizer to the front-panel wrong side, centering the fabric within the stabilizer. Hoop the stabilizer and fabric as one, centering the stabilizer within the hoop. * Embroider the design. Remove the hoop from the machine and the stabilizer from the hoop. Center the front-panel pattern over the embroidery design. Trim the panel perimeter. Designate one panel long edge as the upper edge. CONSTRUCT Use 1/2" seam allowances unless otherwise noted. * With right sides together, stitch the front-zipper panel lower edge to the front-panel upper edge. Trim the seam allowance to 1/4". Press open the seam. Topstitch the front-zipper panel 1/8" from the seamline. * With right sides together, pin the left zipper tape along the front-panel upper edge, aligning the zipper stop 1/2" from the panel right edge and the zipper pull 1/2" from the panel left edge. * Position the front-interior pocket wrong side up over the front-panel right side, aligning the pocket upper edge with the left zipper tape edge, making sure the pocket sides align with the front-panel side; pin. * Stitch 1/4" from the zipper edge, securing the front panel, zipper and pocket together. Press the seam allowance toward the front panel. Fold the pocket toward the front panel with wrong sides together; press. * Topstitch the front-zipper panel 1/8" from the zipper. Position the back-interior pocket wrong side up over the front-interior pocket right side, aligning the right zipper tape with the back-interior pocket upper edge; pin. Baste 1/8" from the right zipper-tape edge. Baste 1/8" along the front panel lower edge to secure all three fabric layers. * With right sides together, align one front-side panel long edge with the front-panel right edge; pin, and then stitch. Press the seam allowance toward the side panel. Topstitch the front-side panel 1/8" from the seamline. Repeat to attach the remaining side panel to the front-panel left edge (A). [ILLUSTRATION OMITTED] * With right sides together, align the upper-front panel with the right zipper tape edge; pin. Stitch using a 1/4" seam allowance. Press the seam allowance toward the upper panel. Topstitch the upper-front panel 1/8" from the seamline. * Stitch the back-side panels to the back-panel short edges with right sides together. Press the seam allowances toward the side panels. Topstitch each side panel 1/8" from the seamline. * Stitch the upper-back panel to the back-panel upper edge with right sides together. Press the seam allowance toward the upper panel. Topstitch the upperback panel 1/8" from the seamline. * Position one handle tab wrong side up on a flat work surface. Place fusible web tape on each tab short edge; fuse following the manufacturer's instructions. Remove the paper backing. Fold each short edge 1/4" toward the wrong side; press. * Place fusible web tape on each remaining raw edge; fuse. Fold each raw edge toward the wrong side to meet in the tab center; press (B). [ILLUSTRATION OMITTED] * Fold the tab in half widthwise with wrong sides together; press. Insert one D-ring through the tab, and align the tab ends. Hand baste close to the D-ring. * Position the front panel right side up on a flat work surface. Align the handle tab upper edge with one handle placement line; pin, and then hand baste. Topstitch 1/8" from the tab short end, back stitching over the entire tab for extra security. Remove the handle tab basting stitches. Repeat to create and baste the remaining three handle tabs to the front and back panel. * With right sides together, position the interior panel on the upper-front panel upper edge; pin. Stitch the interior panel short end, beginning at the lower dot, and pivoting just before the upper dot diagonally for two stitches. Continue stitching the long edge, and repeat to pivot at the right upper dot. End the stitching at the right lower dot (C). [ILLUSTRATION OMITTED] * Trim the interior-panel seam allowance to 1/8" and the front seam allowance to 1/4" on the upper edge. Trim the corners. Repeat to stitch the remaining interior panel to the upperback panel. * With right sides together, stitch the back-panel lower edge to one base long edge. Press the seam allowance toward the base. Repeat to stitch the opposite base long edge to the front lower edge. Topstitch the base 1/8" from each seamline. * Finger-press the front interior-panel lower edge 1/2" toward the wrong side; pin (D). [ILLUSTRATION OMITTED] * Position one side long edge and front right edge with right sides together, aligning the side-panel upper dot with the interior band folded edge; pin (E). [ILLUSTRATION OMITTED] * Stitch, beginning at the side upperedge dot, making sure to not catch the interior panel in the stitching. End the stitching with the needle in the down position at the lower edge dot. Using small sharp scissors, cut diagonally into just the side panel up to, but not through, the corner at the dot. * Lift the presser foot and pivot the side panel to align the side lower edge with the base short edge. Continue stitching the side panel to the base and the back panel, pivoting at the opposite side-panel dot and ending at the side-panel upper-edge dot (F). [ILLUSTRATION OMITTED] * Press seam allowance toward the side panel. Repeat to stitch the remaining side panel to the left bag edge. * Trim the interior panel seam allowance to 1/4" on each short end and trim the corners. Turn the back interior panel right side out, pushing out the corners using a point turner. Press flat. Repeat for the front interior panel. * Press one zipper-panel long edge 1/2" toward the wrong side. Press each short end 1/2" toward the wrong side. Repeat to press the remaining zipper panels. * Position one interfaced zipper panel and one non-interfaced zipper panel with wrong sides together, making sure the folded long and short ends are aligned. Baste using a 1/4" seam allowance along the short and long folded edges. Designate the zipper panel with the interfacing as the upper zipper panel. Repeat to create a second zipper panel. * Center one zipper panel over the front interior panel long edge, aligning the upper zipper panel with the interior panel; pin. Baste using a 1/4" seam allowance (G). Repeat to baste the remaining zipper panel to the back interior band. Turn the bag right side out. [ILLUSTRATION OMITTED] * Position the back-lining panel right side up on a flat work surface. Fold the interior pocket in half widthwise with right sides together, press and then unfold. With right sides together, position the pocket over the backlining panel, aligning the pocket foldline with the lower pocket line on the back-lining panel; pin. * Stitch along the rectangle on the back-lining panel wrong side. * Position the back-lining panel right side up on a flat work surface. Using small sharp scissors, cut through the rectangle center lengthwise, ending 1/4" from the short ends. Cut diagonally from the line end up to, but not through, the rectangle corners. * Push the pocket through the opening toward the back lining wrong side. Pull the small triangle on the sides to straighten the rectangle. Press the pocket flat (H). [ILLUSTRATION OMITTED] * Position the back lining wrong side up on a flat work surface. Create a 3/4"-wide upward-facing pleat on the pocket to close the rectangle. Machine baste just the folded edge, and then whipstitch the fold to the pocket (I). [ILLUSTRATION OMITTED] * Position the back-lining panel right side up. Fold the lower edge toward the upper edge, exposing the lower seam allowance. Stitch through the seam allowance as close as possible to the previous stitching line (J). [ILLUSTRATION OMITTED] * Position the pocket wrong side up. With right sides together, fold the pocket in half widthwise, aligning all the edges; pin. Fold back the lining panel and stitch from the pocket folded upper edge around the perimeter and ending at the opposite folded edge, making sure to stitch over the small triangle stitching line, but not catching the back-lining panel in the stitching (K). Remove the basting stitches from the pocket. * With right sides together, stitch the front lining lower edge to the base lining long edge. Press the seam allowances toward the base. Repeat to stitch the back lining lower edge to the opposite base long edge, but leave a 8"-long centered opening for turning. * Stitch the side lining panels to the front, back and base using the same technique you used for the exterior side panels. * Press one strap tab in half lengthwise with wrong sides together; unfold. Fold each long edge toward the wrong side to meet at the center fold-line; press. Repeat to fold the remaining strap tab. * Fold the tab in half widthwise with wrong sides together; press. Insert the tab through a D-ring, aligning the short ends with the wrong sides together. Center one strap tab over one side-panel upper edge, aligning the strap short ends with the side panel raw edge. Hand baste 1/4" from the short ends. Repeat to create the remaining strap tab. * Fold the upper-back panel and interior panel down over the panel right side. Whipstitch the side panel to the upper panel at each corner (K). [ILLUSTRATION OMITTED] * Place the lining over the exterior with right sides together, aligning the upper edge and seamlines; pin, and then stitch. * Remove the zipper panel and strap tab basting stitches. Press the seam allowance toward the lining, and then press open the zipper panel and front panel seam allowances. Turn the bag right side out though the lining opening. Insert your machine's free arm through the lining opening and understitch the lining. * Press the zipper panels toward the lining. Install a zipper foot onto the machine. Topstitch the zipper panel to the lining 1/8" from interior panel/ zipper panel seamline (L). Repeat to stitch the opposite zipper panel. [ILLUSTRATION OMITTED] * Topstitch the upper-front panel, beginning at one short end as close to the side panel as possible. End at the opposite short end. * Slipstitch the lining opening closed. Push the lining into the bag with wrong sides together, favoring the bag upper edge toward the lining. * Remove the basting holding the two front zipper panels together. Insert the left zipper tape in between the front zipper panels, aligning the zipper end with the right panel short end seam allowance and the zipper teeth 1/8" from the panel long edge. Align the zipper upper edge in the left zipper panel short end, folding back the zipper frayed short end onto itself and into the panel seam allowance. Hand baste to secure (M). [ILLUSTRATION OMITTED] * Align the upper and lower zipper panel with wrong sides together; hand baste 1/4" from the folded edge. Topstitch the zipper panel 1/8" from the folded long edge. Repeat to stitch the right zipper tape to the back zipper panel. * Fold one handle-end upper edge 1/2" toward the wrong side; press. Mark a 1/4" seam allowance on the side and lower edges. * With right sides together, position one handle end over one handle short edge; pin. Stitch the perimeter of the handle end using a 1/4" seam allowance and pivoting at each corner. Repeat to stitch the remaining handle end to the opposite handle short edge (N). [ILLUSTRATION OMITTED] * Trim the seam allowance to 1/8" and trim the corners. Turn the handle end right side out using a chopstick; press flat. Edgestitch the handle end (O). [ILLUSTRATION OMITTED] * Press each handle long edge 1/2" toward the wrong side. Center one cording length over the handle wrong side, aligning the end with the handle-end folded edge. Fold the handle in half lengthwise, enclosing the cording within handle and aligning the folded long edges; pin. Whipstitch to secure the handle long edges (P). Repeat to construct the remaining handle. [ILLUSTRATION OMITTED] * Insert one handle end into one D-ring on the bag front and fold 3/4" with wrong sides together; pin. Hand baste 1/2" from the short end. Topstitch 1/2" from the fold. Repeat to stitch the opposite handle end into the opposite bag front D-ring, making sure the handle isn't twisted. Repeat for the back handle. * Fold the strap in half lengthwise with right sides together; pin. Stitch one strap short end and the long edge using a 1/4" seam allowance. Trim the seam allowance to 1/8". Turn the strap right side out using a long dowel. * Fold each strap short end 1/4" toward the wrong side; press. Press the strap flat. Topstitch the strap perimeter. * Insert one strap end into a swivel clasp and fold the strap end 1"; pin. Topstitch 1/8" from the short end. Repeat to attach the opposite strap short end to the remaining clasp, making sure the strap isn't twisted. Attach the clasps to the strap D-rings. * To make a zipper pull for the purse zipper, cut a 1"x5" strip of leather or faux leather using the template. Fold the strip in half widthwise, then topstitch the leather 1/8" from the folded short end. Open a jump ring slightly, and then insert the ring through the folded short end. * Insert one ring open end through the purse zipper, and then squeeze the ring to close. Move the leather to cover the ring opening. MAKE IT FOB-ULOUS [ILLUSTRATION OMITTED] For an additional embellishment, create a quick and easy monogrammed zipper fob for the front pocket. MATERIALS * 1/2" swivel clasp * 2 1/2X6 1/2" scrap of leather or faux leather * Mediumweight tear-away stabilizer * Embroidery design letters (no taller than 1/4") * Hoop three layers of tear-away stabilizer. Center the leather scrap right side up over the stabilizer; secure the perimeter with painter's tape. * Choose two initials on the embroidery machine screen. Rotate each letter 90[degrees] and position the surname letter near the screen lower-edge center. Position the first-name letter above the surname, making sure they're properly aligned. * Thread the machine needle and bobbin with matching 40wt. embroidery thread. Place the hoop onto the machine. Embroider the design. * Remove the hoop from the machine and stabilizer from the hoop. Trim any jump threads. Carefully tear away the stabilizer from the design perimeter. Trim the leather according to the zipper fob pattern. Insert one fob short end through the swivel clasp and align the short ends. Topstitch the fob near the swivel clasp bar. Attach the clasp to the pocket zipper.
Navy Bag Front Panel Embroidery Design, Creative Machine Embroidery; cmemag.com/ freebies.
Big Duck Canvas Warehouse provided the 15-ounce navy blue duck fabric: bigduckcanvas.com.