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In the navy bag.

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

Mystery solved! To celebrate our 15th anniversary, we took our blog readers on a 6-month adventure to create this versatile embroidered purse. Read on for an the how-tos and special tips!
MATERIALS

* 1 yard of 52"-wide duck
fabric (exterior)

* 3/4 yard of cotton print
fabric (interior)

* 3/4 yard of heavyweight fusible
interfacing & heavyweight
cut-away fusible stabilizer

* 1/2 yard of lightweight
fusible interfacing

* Chalk wheel or removable fabric
pencil

* Thread: all-purpose
& embroidery

* Needles: 90/14 embroidery
& 90/14 universal

* 1/4"-wide double-sided
fusible web tape

* 9"-long metal zipper

* 11"-long metal separating
zipper (or trim to size)

* Two 9 1/4" lengths of
3/8"-diameter cording

* Six 3/4"-wide D-rings

* Two 3/4" swivel clasps

* 45"-long, 1/4"-diameter dowel

* Embroidery design
(approx. 6"x9"; see "Design.")

PREPARE

* Download and print out the In the
Navy Bag pattern from cmemag.
com/freebies until Dec. 31, 2016.
Find the pattern after the expiration
date at shopsewitall.com.

* From the duck cloth, cut one front
panel, leaving an extra 1" beyond the
perimeter for hooping. Cut two upper
panels (designate one as the front
and one as the back), one front-zipper
panel, two front-side panels, one back
panel, two back-side panels, one base,
two interior panels, two side panels,
one strap, four zipper panels, two
handles, two strap tabs, four handle
tabs and four handle ends.

* From the heavyweight interfacing, cut
two front-side panels, one front-zipper
panel, two upper panels (designate
one as the front and one as the back),
one back panel, two side panels, two
interior panels and two zipper panels.
Trim 1/2" from each front-zipper
panel long edge and the two zipper
panel interfacing pieces. Fuse the
corresponding interfacing pieces to
the duck cloth pieces, following the
manufacturer's instructions.

* From the lining and mediumweight
interfacing, cut two front and back linings,
two side panels, one front-interior
pocket, one back-interior pocket,
one interior pocket and one base.
Fuse the interfacing pieces to each
corresponding lining piece, following
the manufacturer's instructions.

* Transfer all pattern markings using a
chalk wheel or removable fabric pencil.

EMBROIDER

* Download the In the Navy Bag Front
Panel embroidery design from cmemag.com/freebies.
Load the design
into the embroidery machine.

* Thread the needle and bobbin with
matching embroidery thread. Fuse
a piece of cut-away stabilizer to the
front-panel wrong side, centering
the fabric within the stabilizer. Hoop
the stabilizer and fabric as one, centering
the stabilizer within the hoop.

* Embroider the design. Remove the
hoop from the machine and the
stabilizer from the hoop. Center
the front-panel pattern over the
embroidery design. Trim the panel
perimeter. Designate one panel
long edge as the upper edge.

CONSTRUCT

Use 1/2" seam allowances unless
otherwise noted.

* With right sides together, stitch the
front-zipper panel lower edge to the
front-panel upper edge. Trim the
seam allowance to 1/4". Press open
the seam. Topstitch the front-zipper
panel 1/8" from the seamline.

* With right sides together, pin the
left zipper tape along the front-panel
upper edge, aligning the
zipper stop 1/2" from the panel right
edge and the zipper pull 1/2" from
the panel left edge.

* Position the front-interior pocket
wrong side up over the front-panel
right side, aligning the pocket upper
edge with the left zipper tape edge,
making sure the pocket sides align
with the front-panel side; pin.

* Stitch 1/4" from the zipper edge,
securing the front panel, zipper
and pocket together. Press the
seam allowance toward the front
panel. Fold the pocket toward
the front panel with wrong sides
together; press.

* Topstitch the front-zipper panel 1/8"
from the zipper. Position the back-interior
pocket wrong side up over
the front-interior pocket right side,
aligning the right zipper tape with
the back-interior pocket upper edge;
pin. Baste 1/8" from the right zipper-tape
edge. Baste 1/8" along the front
panel lower edge to secure all three
fabric layers.

* With right sides together, align
one front-side panel long edge
with the front-panel right edge;
pin, and then stitch. Press the seam
allowance toward the side panel.
Topstitch the front-side panel 1/8"
from the seamline. Repeat to attach
the remaining side panel to the front-panel
left edge (A).

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

* With right sides together, align the
upper-front panel with the right zipper
tape edge; pin. Stitch using a 1/4"
seam allowance. Press the seam allowance
toward the upper panel. Topstitch
the upper-front panel 1/8" from
the seamline.

* Stitch the back-side panels to the back-panel
short edges with right sides
together. Press the seam allowances
toward the side panels. Topstitch each
side panel 1/8" from the seamline.

* Stitch the upper-back panel to the back-panel
upper edge with right sides together.
Press the seam allowance toward
the upper panel. Topstitch the upperback
panel 1/8" from the seamline.

* Position one handle tab wrong side
up on a flat work surface. Place fusible
web tape on each tab short edge;
fuse following the manufacturer's
instructions. Remove the paper backing.
Fold each short edge 1/4" toward
the wrong side; press.

* Place fusible web tape on each remaining
raw edge; fuse. Fold each raw
edge toward the wrong side to meet
in the tab center; press (B).

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

* Fold the tab in half widthwise with
wrong sides together; press. Insert
one D-ring through the tab, and
align the tab ends. Hand baste
close to the D-ring.

* Position the front panel right side up
on a flat work surface. Align the handle
tab upper edge with one handle
placement line; pin, and then hand
baste. Topstitch 1/8" from the tab short
end, back stitching over the entire tab
for extra security. Remove the handle
tab basting stitches. Repeat to create
and baste the remaining three handle
tabs to the front and back panel.

* With right sides together, position
the interior panel on the upper-front
panel upper edge; pin. Stitch the
interior panel short end, beginning
at the lower dot, and pivoting just before
the upper dot diagonally for two
stitches. Continue stitching the long
edge, and repeat to pivot at the right
upper dot. End the stitching at the
right lower dot (C).

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

* Trim the interior-panel seam allowance
to 1/8" and the front seam allowance
to 1/4" on the upper edge.
Trim the corners. Repeat to stitch the
remaining interior panel to the upperback
panel.

* With right sides together, stitch the
back-panel lower edge to one base
long edge. Press the seam allowance
toward the base. Repeat to stitch the
opposite base long edge to the front
lower edge. Topstitch the base 1/8"
from each seamline.

* Finger-press the front interior-panel
lower edge 1/2" toward the wrong
side; pin (D).

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

* Position one side long edge and front
right edge with right sides together,
aligning the side-panel upper dot with
the interior band folded edge; pin (E).

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

* Stitch, beginning at the side upperedge
dot, making sure to not catch the
interior panel in the stitching. End the
stitching with the needle in the down
position at the lower edge dot. Using
small sharp scissors, cut diagonally
into just the side panel up to, but not
through, the corner at the dot.

* Lift the presser foot and pivot the side
panel to align the side lower edge
with the base short edge. Continue
stitching the side panel to the base
and the back panel, pivoting at the
opposite side-panel dot and ending
at the side-panel upper-edge dot (F).

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

* Press seam allowance toward the side
panel. Repeat to stitch the remaining
side panel to the left bag edge.

* Trim the interior panel seam allowance
to 1/4" on each short end and trim
the corners. Turn the back interior
panel right side out, pushing out the
corners using a point turner. Press flat.
Repeat for the front interior panel.

* Press one zipper-panel long edge
1/2" toward the wrong side. Press
each short end 1/2" toward the
wrong side. Repeat to press
the remaining zipper panels.

* Position one interfaced zipper panel
and one non-interfaced zipper panel
with wrong sides together, making
sure the folded long and short ends
are aligned. Baste using a 1/4" seam
allowance along the short and long
folded edges. Designate the zipper
panel with the interfacing as the
upper zipper panel. Repeat to create a
second zipper panel.

* Center one zipper panel over the front
interior panel long edge, aligning the
upper zipper panel with the interior
panel; pin. Baste using a 1/4" seam allowance
(G). Repeat to baste the remaining
zipper panel to the back interior band.
Turn the bag right side out.

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

* Position the back-lining panel right
side up on a flat work surface. Fold
the interior pocket in half widthwise
with right sides together, press and
then unfold. With right sides together,
position the pocket over the backlining
panel, aligning the pocket foldline
with the lower pocket line on the
back-lining panel; pin.

* Stitch along the rectangle on the
back-lining panel wrong side.

* Position the back-lining panel right
side up on a flat work surface. Using
small sharp scissors, cut through the
rectangle center lengthwise, ending
1/4" from the short ends. Cut diagonally
from the line end up to, but not
through, the rectangle corners.

* Push the pocket through the opening
toward the back lining wrong side.
Pull the small triangle on the sides
to straighten the rectangle. Press the
pocket flat (H).

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

* Position the back lining wrong side
up on a flat work surface. Create a
3/4"-wide upward-facing pleat on the
pocket to close the rectangle. Machine
baste just the folded edge, and then
whipstitch the fold to the pocket (I).

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

* Position the back-lining panel right
side up. Fold the lower edge toward
the upper edge, exposing the lower
seam allowance. Stitch through the
seam allowance as close as possible
to the previous stitching line (J).

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

* Position the pocket wrong side up.
With right sides together, fold the
pocket in half widthwise, aligning
all the edges; pin. Fold back the lining
panel and stitch from the pocket
folded upper edge around the perimeter
and ending at the opposite
folded edge, making sure to stitch
over the small triangle stitching line,
but not catching the back-lining
panel in the stitching (K). Remove the
basting stitches from the pocket.

* With right sides together, stitch the
front lining lower edge to the base
lining long edge. Press the seam allowances
toward the base. Repeat to stitch
the back lining lower edge to the opposite
base long edge, but leave a 8"-long
centered opening for turning.

* Stitch the side lining panels to the
front, back and base using the same
technique you used for the exterior
side panels.

* Press one strap tab in half lengthwise
with wrong sides together; unfold.
Fold each long edge toward the
wrong side to meet at the center fold-line;
press. Repeat to fold the remaining
strap tab.

* Fold the tab in half widthwise with
wrong sides together; press. Insert
the tab through a D-ring, aligning
the short ends with the wrong sides
together. Center one strap tab over
one side-panel upper edge, aligning
the strap short ends with the side
panel raw edge. Hand baste 1/4" from
the short ends. Repeat to create the
remaining strap tab.

* Fold the upper-back panel and interior
panel down over the panel right
side. Whipstitch the side panel to the
upper panel at each corner (K).

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

* Place the lining over the exterior with
right sides together, aligning the
upper edge and seamlines; pin, and
then stitch.

* Remove the zipper panel and strap
tab basting stitches. Press the seam
allowance toward the lining, and
then press open the zipper panel and
front panel seam allowances. Turn the
bag right side out though the lining
opening. Insert your machine's free
arm through the lining opening and
understitch the lining.

* Press the zipper panels toward the
lining. Install a zipper foot onto the
machine. Topstitch the zipper panel
to the lining 1/8" from interior panel/
zipper panel seamline (L). Repeat to
stitch the opposite zipper panel.

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

* Topstitch the upper-front panel, beginning
at one short end as close to
the side panel as possible. End at the
opposite short end.

* Slipstitch the lining opening closed.
Push the lining into the bag with
wrong sides together, favoring the
bag upper edge toward the lining.

* Remove the basting holding the two
front zipper panels together. Insert
the left zipper tape in between the
front zipper panels, aligning the zipper
end with the right panel short
end seam allowance and the zipper
teeth 1/8" from the panel long edge.
Align the zipper upper edge in the
left zipper panel short end, folding
back the zipper frayed short end onto
itself and into the panel seam allowance.
Hand baste to secure (M).

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

* Align the upper and lower zipper panel
with wrong sides together; hand baste
1/4" from the folded edge. Topstitch the
zipper panel 1/8" from the folded long
edge. Repeat to stitch the right zipper
tape to the back zipper panel.

* Fold one handle-end upper edge
1/2" toward the wrong side; press.
Mark a 1/4" seam allowance on the
side and lower edges.

* With right sides together, position
one handle end over one handle
short edge; pin. Stitch the perimeter
of the handle end using a 1/4" seam
allowance and pivoting at each corner.
Repeat to stitch the remaining
handle end to the opposite handle
short edge (N).

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

* Trim the seam allowance to 1/8" and
trim the corners. Turn the handle end
right side out using a chopstick; press
flat. Edgestitch the handle end (O).

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

* Press each handle long edge 1/2" toward
the wrong side. Center one cording
length over the handle wrong side,
aligning the end with the handle-end
folded edge. Fold the handle in half
lengthwise, enclosing the cording
within handle and aligning the folded
long edges; pin. Whipstitch to secure
the handle long edges (P). Repeat to
construct the remaining handle.

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

* Insert one handle end into one D-ring
on the bag front and fold 3/4" with wrong
sides together; pin. Hand baste 1/2" from
the short end. Topstitch 1/2" from the fold.
Repeat to stitch the opposite handle end
into the opposite bag front D-ring, making
sure the handle isn't twisted. Repeat
for the back handle.

* Fold the strap in half lengthwise with
right sides together; pin. Stitch one
strap short end and the long edge
using a 1/4" seam allowance. Trim the
seam allowance to 1/8". Turn the strap
right side out using a long dowel.

* Fold each strap short end 1/4" toward
the wrong side; press. Press the strap
flat. Topstitch the strap perimeter.

* Insert one strap end into a swivel
clasp and fold the strap end 1"; pin.
Topstitch 1/8" from the short end.
Repeat to attach the opposite strap
short end to the remaining clasp,
making sure the strap isn't twisted.
Attach the clasps to the strap D-rings.

* To make a zipper pull for the purse
zipper, cut a 1"x5" strip of leather or
faux leather using the template. Fold
the strip in half widthwise, then topstitch
the leather 1/8" from the folded
short end. Open a jump ring slightly,
and then insert the ring through the
folded short end.

* Insert one ring open end through
the purse zipper, and then squeeze
the ring to close. Move the leather to
cover the ring opening.

MAKE IT FOB-ULOUS

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

For an additional embellishment, create
a quick and easy monogrammed
zipper fob for the front pocket.

MATERIALS

* 1/2" swivel clasp

* 2 1/2X6 1/2" scrap of leather or
faux leather

* Mediumweight tear-away stabilizer

* Embroidery design letters (no
taller than 1/4")

* Hoop three layers of tear-away stabilizer.
Center the leather scrap right
side up over the stabilizer; secure
the perimeter with painter's tape.

* Choose two initials on the embroidery
machine screen. Rotate each
letter 90[degrees] and position the surname
letter near the screen lower-edge
center. Position the first-name letter
above the surname, making
sure they're properly aligned.

* Thread the machine needle and bobbin
with matching 40wt. embroidery
thread. Place the hoop onto the machine.
Embroider the design.

* Remove the hoop from the machine
and stabilizer from the hoop.
Trim any jump threads. Carefully
tear away the stabilizer from the
design perimeter. Trim the leather
according to the zipper fob pattern.
Insert one fob short end
through the swivel clasp and align
the short ends. Topstitch the fob
near the swivel clasp bar. Attach
the clasp to the pocket zipper.


DESIGN

Navy Bag Front Panel Embroidery Design, Creative Machine Embroidery; cmemag.com/ freebies.

SOURCE

Big Duck Canvas Warehouse provided the 15-ounce navy blue duck fabric: bigduckcanvas.com.
COPYRIGHT 2016 Creative Crafts Group, LLC
No portion of this article can be reproduced without the express written permission from the copyright holder.
Copyright 2016 Gale, Cengage Learning. All rights reserved.

Article Details
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Author:Saba, Kim
Publication:Creative Machine Embroidery
Date:Nov 1, 2016
Words:2824
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