Printer Friendly


A DAY on the Scottish mountains should always feel like an adventure but there's an added edge when you are heading for the islands.

The feeling of remoteness, the military-style planning and the variables of the journey itself all add to up to something extra special.

You feel like Robinson Crusoe in reverse as you happily watch the ferry pull away from shore leaving you stranded in a strange land for a few days.

Rum is one of my favourite places and the Cuillin mountains provide one of the best ridge walks in Scotland. But to reach them and complete the circuit in time to fit in with the ferries requires pinpoint planning.

Whereas the likes of Arran and Mull have a regular ferry service, Rum is not so straightforward, with boats only crossing on certain days and at varying times.

The ideal way to do the hills is to stay over for a few days but if you are pushed for time then Saturday provides the only chance to get in and back in a day.

That gives you nearly 11 hours on the island. The mountain circuit and coastal walk back takes around 11 hours. One minute late and you're there until Monday.

When I last did the round in 2009, I travelled over on the Friday ferry, had a few hours exploring and then an early night at Kinloch Castle. There was a small restaurant and a lovely wee bar in which you were largely left to your own devices, only ringing for a barman when needed.

Now there's a spanking new hostel beside the castle and there's also a good campsite with wooden igloos for those who fancy roughing it but not too much.

I set off at 5am on a stunning Saturday morning on the Coire Dubh path up to the Bealach Bairc-mheall and soon I was on my first summit, Hallival.

Purists will say the ridge begins with Barkeval, but my eyes were firmly on the clock and I would rather have time to spare at the end.

The ridge now leads on to Askival, the highest point on the round.

All along this ridge you can see holes in the ground. These are nesting burrows of the Manx shearwater, but unless you are here around dusk it's unlikely you will see any activity.

The twin rocky peaks of Trallval provide an easy scramble in spectacular terrain. A careful descent leads to Ainshval and then the easy walk round to Sgurr nan Gillean.

A drop down over rough ground brings you out at Dibidil Bothy and then there's the small matter of the three-hour coastal path walk back.

Eigg and Muck have been constant companions on the round, and although they start to fade as you get closer to the pier, you can rest assured that a day in the Cuillin certainly won't fade fast.


Too good to be mist The peaks of Askival and Ainshval in early-morning mist
COPYRIGHT 2014 Scottish Daily Record & Sunday
No portion of this article can be reproduced without the express written permission from the copyright holder.
Copyright 2014 Gale, Cengage Learning. All rights reserved.

Article Details
Printer friendly Cite/link Email Feedback
Title Annotation:Features
Publication:Daily Record (Glasgow, Scotland)
Date:Mar 27, 2014
Previous Article:PARTING GIFT; Maguire: Scots in good hands.
Next Article:Grammar will be right Cup for semi clash with Heriot's; Rugby.

Terms of use | Privacy policy | Copyright © 2019 Farlex, Inc. | Feedback | For webmasters