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INSULATION BUILDS VALUE IN ROOM ADDITIONS

               INSULATION BUILDS VALUE IN ROOM ADDITIONS
    TOLEDO, Ohio, March 3 /PRNewswire/ -- Many homeowners who start


building additions may think they are only adding to their bills.
    But the smart ones know they can save money and upgrade their additions by finishing some of the easy jobs themselves.
    "Investing your time in do-it-yourself projects for your addition, such as painting and installing insulation, will allow you to invest more money in design and fixtures," says Frank Glover, of Owens-Corning Fiberglas, a leading manufacturer of energy-efficient building materials.
    "And in fact, installing fiber glass blanket insulation in your addition yourself can also provide continued value -- through lower energy bills, increased sound resistance and year-round comfort."
    Do-It-Yourself Installation
    Before starting any do-it-yourself insulation project, make sure you have:  a sharp utility knife, a step ladder for high reaches, a staple gun, a straight-edge and a measuring tape.  For comfort, wear a paper respirator, a long-sleeved shirt, a pair of work gloves and safety glasses.
    Fiber glass blanket insulation is the most commonly used material for do-it-yourself projects.  It comes in R-values of R-13, R-19, R-25, R-30 and R-38 (having thicknesses from 3-1/2 to 12 inches.)  "R-values" measure insulation's resistance to heat flow.  The higher the R-value, the greater the insulating power.  Ask your seller for the fact sheet on R-values.
    Determine the square footage of insulation you'll need by multiplying the length by width of your new walls, ceiling and floors and subtracting the square footage of the doors and windows.
    Ceilings
    To insulate the ceiling of your room addition, install R-38, the Department of Energy (DOE) R-value recommendation for most American homes, equal to 12 inches of fiber glass blanket insulation.
    Install faced (with kraft-paper on foil) fiber glass blanket insulation in the ceiling.  The facing acts as a vapor barrier to help control moisture.  Place the insulation between the overhead joists with the vapor barrier down toward the warm-in-winter side.  From a step ladder, staple the flange (edge of the facing) to the inside edge of the ceiling rafters.  If you use unfaced insulation, staple polyethylene over the insulation directly to the bottom edge of the rafters.
    Exterior Walls
    In your area, the DOE recommends R-19 wall systems (cavity insulation plus insulated sheathing) for new wall construction.  For 2 by 4 wall construction, you can achieve an R-19 wall system by placing an appropriate insulated sheathing over R-15 (3-1/2 inches) high-density fiber glass insulation or R-13 (3-1/2 inches) insulation.  For 2 by 6 construction, R-21 (5-1/2 inches) high-density fiber glass insulation or R-19 (6-1/4 inches) insulation will help you meet or exceed the R-19 wall system recommendation.
    To insulate a wall cavity, measure and cut each length of insulation slightly long to ensure a tight fit.  Install it with the vapor barrier facing toward the warm-in-winter side.  Wedge the blankets snugly between the stud.  Staple the flange to the inside of the wood studs.
    If you use unfaced insulation, staple a 4- or 6-mil polyethylene vapor barrier over the insulation directly to the studs to prevent moisture build-up.  Do not leave faced insulation or polyethylene uncovered because these materials are flammable.  Cover it with an approved interior finish such as gypsum wallboard.
    Interior Walls
    Insulating the inner walls of your new addition will help prevent sound from vibrating throughout your home.  Interior walls are normally built with gypsum wallboard over wall studs.  But fiber glass insulation in inner walls can help block sounds from noisy rooms such as bathrooms, laundry rooms, rec rooms and children's rooms.
    Insulate wall cavities with R-13 (3-1/2 inches) or R-11 (3-1/2 inches) unfaced fiber glass insulation.  A vapor barrier is not necessary when insulating for sound control.  Next, place metal strips called resilient channels over the insulation perpendicular to the joists.  Resilient channels, available at most home center stores, block sound from traveling through the wall and the rest of your house. Complete the project by applying gypsum wallboard over the joints and resilient channels.
    Floors
    If your new addition is above an unheated basement or crawl space, you should insulate the floor too.  Slip R-19 (6-1/4 inches) kraft-faced insulation blankets between the floor joists.  Make sure the vapor barrier faces up toward the warm-in-winter side of your room.  The insulation will stay in place temporarily.  However, since you won't have a flange to staple, install metal rods called "insulation supports" or crisscross wire to secure the insulation.  The insulation blankets should fit snugly and fill the entire cavity end to end.
    If, however, there are pipes and uninsulated ducts in the crawl space beneath your addition, it would be better in most areas to insulate the crawl space walls with unfaced R-19 fiber glass insulation.
    Smart Tips
    Also, call Owens-Corning's insulation hotline -- 1-800-GET-PINK (1-800-438-7465) -- to find out the DOE-recommended insulation R-values for your area.  Each caller receives a free copy of "A Homeowner's Guide To Insulation And Energy Savings," which provides information on how and where to insulate around your home.  Homeowners can obtain the 32-page guide by writing to M.S.U. Meeks, Owens-Corning Fiberglass Corp., Fiberglas Tower, Toledo, Ohio  43659.
    -0-                       3/3/92
    /NOTE TO EDITORS:  Photos available to accompany release./
    /CONTACT:  William P. Rossiter of Owens-Corning Fiberglas, 419-248-7060, or Susan Dunn of Burson-Marsteller, 212-614-4975, for Owens-Corning/ CO:  Owens-Corning Fiberglas ST:  Ohio IN: SU: SM-TQ -- NYHFNS1 -- 4262 03/03/92 07:11 EST
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Date:Mar 3, 1992
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