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How far will a little caviar go? A long way in these three salads.

Luxurious-looking caviars need not be prohibitively expensive. Caviars made from the roe of salmon, whitefish, lumpfish, or flying-fish (usually labeled as roe, not caviar) don't have the subtle delicacy of sturgeon caviars. But they are much more modestly priced and fun to use for their jewel-like appearance, color, and texture, as in these three lively first-course salads.

Lumpfish caviars have color added: red, black, or gold. They benefit from a rinse with cool water to remove excess salt and dye. This treatment also helps refresh the flavor of naturally colored eggs, like those of salmon.

Keep in mind that all caviars are perishable, and once opened should be refrigerated for no more than 3 or 4 days.

Potato-Avocado-Caviar Salad

2 medium-size thin-skinned potatoes

(about 3/4 lb. total)

Water

3 tablespoons white wine vinegar

1 tablespoon salad oil

1-1/2 teaspoons Dijon mustard

1/4 teaspoon pepper

4 teaspoons each golden lumpfish caviar and black lumpfish caviar

2 small or 1 large firm-ripe avocado

6 tablespoons sour cream

Place potatoes in a 3- or 4-quart pan; cover with water. Bring to boil over high heat, reduce heat, and simmer, uncovered, until potatoes are tender when pierced, about 30 minutes. Drain and chill. Peel potatoes and slice into 1/4-inch rounds. In a bowl, mix vinegar, oil, mustard, and pepper. Add potatoes and mix to coat well; chill 1 hour or up to overnight.

Place golden caviar in a fine wire strainer and rinse with cold running water; drain. Repeat with black caviar. Cut avocados in half; pit and peel. Slice each half lengthwise into 3 wedges (6 if using large avocado). Place 3 wedges on each of 4 salad plates. Spoon potatoes equally alongside. Spoon 1-1/2 tablespoons sour cream onto potatoes, and top each serving with 1 teaspoon each golden and black caviar. Makes 4 first-course servings.

Red-and-Black Lemon Pasta

1-1/2 cups natural or dry champagne or dry white wine

3 strips lemon peel, yellow part only, each about 1/2 by 2-1/2 inches

3 tablespoons salad oil

1 teaspoon white wine vinegar

1/8 teaspoon ground white pepper

1/8 teaspoon liquid hot pepper seasoning

Water

4 ounces dry capellini or vermicelli

Salt

3 tablespoons red salmon caviar

1 tablespoon black lumpfish caviar

4 sprigs parsley

4 lemon wedges

In a 2- to 3-quart pan over high heat, boil champagne, uncovered, until reduced to 3 tablespoons; remove from heat. Meanwhile, slice lemon peel crosswise in very thin strips. Add peel, oil, vinegar, pepper, and hot pepper seasoning to reduced champagne; set aside.

In a 5- or 6-quart pan, bring 6 cups water to a boil over high heat. Add capellini, stirring to separate. Return to a boil and cook, uncovered, until pasta is tender to the bite, about 5 minutes; drain. Rinse with cold water; drain well. Combine with champagne mixture; add salt to taste. Chill at least 1 hour or up to overnight.

Divide pasta evenly among 4 salad plates. Put salmon caviar in a fine wire strainer, rinse under cold running water, and drain. Repeat with black caviar. Sprinkle 2-1/4 teaspoons salmon caviar and 3/4 teaspoon black caviar over each serving of pasta; garnish each with parsley and a lemon wedge. Makes 4 first-course servings.

Flying-Fish roe Salad

1 head each butter lettuce and redleaf lettuce (6 to 8 oz.), washed and cripsed

Vinaigrette (recipe follows)

1/2 cup 1/2-inch cubes feta cheese

1/2 to 3/4 cup canned marinated

mussels, drained; or 3 ounces smoked trout, skin removed, cut into 3/8-inch strips

1/4 cup marinated artichoke hearts, drained and cut into thin slices

4 to 5 tablespoons flying-fish roe (tobiko, from Japanese markets), or red or black lumpfish caviar

Measure 2 quarts of each lettuce; use leaves whole or tear in bite-size pieces. Put in a large bowl, add vinaigrette, and mix well. Divide evenly among 4 or 5 dinner plates or salad bowls. Top equally with cheese, mussels, and artichokes.

Put flying-fish roe in a fine wire strainer, rinse under cold running water, and drain well. Spoon equally onto salads. Makes 4 or 5 first-course servings.

Vinaigrette. Mix 3 tablespoons rice vinegar (or 3 tablespoons white wine vinegar and 1/2 teaspoon sugar), 2 tablespoons salad oil, 1 teaspoon sherry, 1/2 teaspoon Oriental sesame oil, and 1/4 teaspoon pepper.
COPYRIGHT 1985 Sunset Publishing Corp.
No portion of this article can be reproduced without the express written permission from the copyright holder.
Copyright 1985 Gale, Cengage Learning. All rights reserved.

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Title Annotation:includes recipes
Publication:Sunset
Date:Dec 1, 1985
Words:725
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