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His Aussie burger is food for heroes or hungry teen-agers.

His Aussie burger is food for heroes or hungry teen-agers Australia is a big, empty county, and if Trevor Lowdell's Aussie Burger is typical of what goes on the barbie there, it must be inhabited by people with big, not-so-empty stomachs. This is food for heroes, especially heroes with sound arteries who have looked cholesterol in the face without flinching. (It might serve equally well as a snack for the average American teen-ager.)

Each element of this super-burger is delicious in itself; together they can make you forget food, at least until the next meal. With apologies to Chief Lowdell, we've made the hamburger a trifle flatter than he recommends. Even so, our tasters recommend that you cut each hamburger in half before tackling it; only the hinged and distensible jaws of a python could manage a bite of the original version. If you cook the eggs with soft yolks, there are bound to be drips; strip off your necktie, lean over your plate, and use lots of paper napkins

Aussie Burger with the Lot 1 pound ground lean beef 4 slices (1 oz. each) sharp cheddar cheese 2 tablespoons butter or margarine 4 large eggs 4 hamburger buns, split, buttered, and toasted 4 thin slices red or white onion 1 can (8 oz.) sliced pickled beets, drained 4 thin slices firm-ripe tomate 4 medium-size butter lettuce leaves, washed and crisped Salt and pepper

Shape beef into 4 patties, each 1/2 inch thick. Place a 10- to 12-inch frying pan over medium-high heat. When hot, add patties and cook until browned on the bottom. Turn patties over and cook until done to your liking (cut to test), about 4 minutes total for medium. About the last 2 minutes, top each patty with a cheese slice ot warm.

Meanwhile, in another 10- to 12-inch frying pan, melt butter over medium heat. Add eggs and fry until whites are set but yolks are still runny. Leave "sunny side up" or turn and cook "over easy."

To serve, place a cheese-topped patty on each toasted bun bottom, top with an egg, then an onion slice, some pickled beets, a tomato slice, and a lettuce leaf. Add salt and pepper to taste, then cover filling with bun tops. Makes 4 servings.

Per serving: 632 cal.; 37 g protein; 33 g carbo.; 39 g fat; 390 mg chol.; 720 mg sodium. Los Angeles

Albert Shaw's fettuccine is doubly Italianate. It combines the bacon and egg of a carbonara sauce (or a good American breakfast) with the butter, cream, and parmesan cheese of fettuccine Alfredo. The redundance succeeds.

Fettuccine Alber 1/2 cup (1/4 lb.) unsalted butter or margarine 3 cloves garlic, minced or pressed 5 slices crisp cooked bacon, drained and crumbled 1 large egg 1 cup whipping cream 1 cup (5 oz.) freshly grated parmesan cheese 1/4 teaspoon dry oregano leaves 12 ounces fresh fettuccine, homemade or purchased 3 tablespoons minced parsley Salt and pepper

Melt butter in a 10- to 12-inch frying pan over medium heat; add garlic and stir often until garlic is soft but not brown, about 3 minutes. Remove from heat and add bacon.

In a small bowl, beat egg with cream, cheese, and oregano. Add egg mixture to pan and stir over medium heat until sauce is slightly thickened.

At the same time, add fettuccine to 3 to 4 quarts rapidly boiling water; cook, uncovered, just until barely tender to bite, 2 to 3 minutes. Drain fettuccine well and pour into a wide bowl; add sauce and parsley and mix well with 2 forks. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve at once. Makes 4 to 6 servings.

Per serving: 612 cal.; 19 g protein; 44 g carbo.; 41 g fat; 205 mg chol.; 494 mg sodium. Orinda, Calif.

John Keats observed that poetry should surprise by a fine excess, not by singularity. Most Chefs of the West follow this dictum, blending good things with more good things until the cupboard is bare. Larry Brimner, on the other hand, surprises us by singularity. How? Listen.

He sauces orange roughy, that delicate New Zealand ocean perch (sold frozen of thawed), with lemon yogurt. Strange, yes. Delicious? Most of our testers said that it was, although most also had to shout down an inner voice that urged caution (unflavored yogurt, however, was acclaimed as a tasty and less disquieting alternative).

California Orange Roughy 1 pound orange roughy fillets, thawed if frozen Salt and pepper 1/2 cup low-fat unflavored or lemon-flavored yogurt 1 green onion (ends trimmed), thinly sliced Lemon wedges Salt

Rinse fish and pat dry. Arrange fillets in a single layer in a greased shallow 9- by 13-inch pan. Sprinkle light with salt and pepper, then evely spread yogurt over fish. Sprinkle with the green onion. Bake, uncovered, in a 350[deg.] oven until fish is just opaque in center (cut to test), 1i to 18 minutes.

Transfer fist to dinner plates; accompany with lemon and salt to add to taste. Makes 3 or 4 servings.

Per serving: 162 cal.; 18 g protein; 2 g carbo.; 8 g fat; 24 mg chol.; 91 mg sodium. San Diego

It seems at first glance to be a bold move--blending the aristocratic shrimp with plebeian coleslaw. But the results justify the bravado. First, cabbage is not necessarily the clownish vegetable some people think it to be; it's begun appearing on fancy menus. Second, the addition of red bell pepper, olives, caraway and celery seed, and dill weed lends a touch of exoticism. Third, there is enough shrimp in the mixture to make its own flavor statement. And finally, the dressing brings them all together in a fine ecumenical way. The lemon peel is a touch of genius.

Shrimp Slaw with Cucumber Dressing 1 small head cabbage (about 1-1/4 lb.) 1 medium-size red bell pepper, stemmed, seeded, and diced 4 green onions (ends trimmed), thinly sliced, including tops 12 Spanish-style pimiento-stuffed olives, thinly sliced 1 pound tiny cooked and shelled shrimp 1/4 teaspoon each caraway seed, celery seed, and dry dill weed Cucumber dressing (recipe follows) Salt and pepper Chopped chives (optional)

Finely shred enough cabbage to make 8 to 9 cups. In a large bowl, combine the cabbage with bell pepper, onions, olives, shrimp, caraway seed, celery seed, and dill weed; mix well. If made ahead, cover and chill up to overnight.

Combine cabbage mixture and dressing and mix gently. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Garnish with chives. Makes 6 or 7 main-dish servings.

Per serving: 320 cal.; 15 g protein; 6 g carbo.; 26 g fat; 145 mg chol.; 456 mg sodium.

Cucumber dressing. In a small bowl, stir together 1 cup mayonnaise; 1 cup peeled, seeded, and chopped cucumber; 1 tablespoon chopped chives; 2 tablespoons rice vinegar; 3 tablespoons chopped parsley; and 1/2 teaspoon grated lemon peel. Tempe, Ariz.

If an ancient Greek were to be set suddenly down in a modern Western community, he would marvel at the piety of our folk. Every summer evening, he would behold smoke from a thousand sacrifices drifting from a thousand shrines where officiants in ceremonial aprons were anointing the flesh of birds and animals with oil and herbs before entrusting it to their fires.

He would not, however, be shocked to find that the celebrants proceeded to eat the flesh of these offerings: the Greeks did so, too, taking the view that the rising smoke was nutrition enough for the gods.

Ted Arnason's pineapple-glazed kebabs employ the traditional garlic and rosemary in their marinade, but add a surprise in the form of crushed pineapple. Many marinades promise more than they perform, perfuming meat without really flavoring it. But this one really penetrates, to confer an odd but delicious fruitiness.

Pineapple-glazed Kebabs 1 can (about 8 oz.) crushed pineapple 1 teaspoon dry rosemary leaves 1/2 teaspoon dry dill weed 1/4 cup dry white wine 3 tablespoons white wine vinegar 1/2 teaspoon pepper 2 tablespoons salad oil 1 large clove garlic, minced or pressed 1 leg of lamb (5 to 5-1/2 lb.), boned, trimmed of excess fat, and cut into 1-1/2-inch cubes Salt

In a bowl, combine pineapple and juice, rosemary, dill weed, wine, vinegar, pepper, oil, and garlic. Add lamb cubes and mix well. Cover and chill at least 30 minutes or up to overnight. Stir several times.

Lift meat from marinade, drain briefly, and thread on metal skewers. Whirl marinade in a blender or food processor to puree coarsely; then, with a brush, dab some of the mixture onto the meat.

Place skewers on a grill 4 to 6 inches above a solid bed of hot coals (you should be able to hold your hand at grill level for only 2 to 3 seconds). Cook, turning as needed, until browned on all sides but still pink in center (cut to test), 12 to 15 minutes total for medium-rare. With brush, dab marinade onto mead several times during cooking, using it all. Add salt to tast. Makes 6 to 8 servings.

Per serving: 307 cal.; 40 g protein; 5 g carbo.; 13 g fat; 141 mg chol.; 98 mg sodium. Bellingham, Wash.

Herb baster with

built-in flavor

Fresh herbs, tied in a cluster, make an attractive brush that adds flavor and aroma when used to baste grilled foods.

For the core of the brush, select one or several fresh sprigs with long, sturdy stems. As food is basted for the last time, toss brush onto hot coals to smolder and release savory smoke onto the grilled fare.

Herb Brush for the Barbecue

Rinse 8 to 10 fresh herb sprigs (enough to make a small handful); the largest should be at least 8 inches long. Shake off excess moisture. On long stems, pull leaves off cut end for a 3-inch-long handle. With a string, tie herbs, including shorter pieces, together at handle base.

For red meats, choose sprigs (any combination of a single herb) of chervil, marjoram, oregano, rosemary, and thyme.

For poultry, choose sprigs (any combination or a single herb) of basil, cilantro, rosemary, sage, and thyme.

For fish, choose sprigs (any combination or a single herb) of basil, dill, mint, and tarragon.
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Title Annotation:include recipes
Date:Jul 1, 1988
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