Here is one chef who is willing to declassify his recipe for salad dressing.
Chefs of the West are old hands at making salads, but they're often guarded when it comes to sharing their recipes for salad dressings. The thinking seems to be that anyone can chop, tear, tatter, and slice a variety of vegetables, but it takes a special talent to whip up a dressing that elevates the produce above mere rabbit food. We are grateful to Rodney Garside for declassifying the recipe for his Creamy French Dressing. The creaminess results from the thorough agitation a blender brings to the oil, vinegar, wine, and egg. Garlic and mustard add tang, and catsup or chili sauce confers a rosy hue, as well as a touch of sweetness.
Creamy French Dressing
1/3 cup salad oil 1/4 cup catsup or tomato-based chili
1 clove garlic, minced or pressed
3 tablespoons red wine vinegar
1/2 teaspoon dry mustard
1 large egg 3 tablespoons dry red wine
In a blender whirl oil, catsup, garlic, vinegar, mustard, egg, and wine for about 15 seconds. Serve, or pour into an airtight container and chill up to 1 week. Makes about 1 1/4 cups; allow 1 to 2 tablespoons for a serving. Per tablespoon: 40 cal.; 0.4 g protein; 3.7 g fat; 1 g carbo.; 37 mg sodium; 10 mg chol.
Why Creole and not Cajun Shrimp Cakes? It probably makes little difference what you call them. Paul Prudhomme, a recognized authority, says that although Creole is an older and more citified cuisine than Cajun, the resemblances are greater than the differences. He prefers to call them both simply Louisiana cooking. Gordon Nartker's shrimp cakes, if they were Cajun, would probably contain a half-dozen more herbs and spices. Nartker's recipe calls for 3 tablespoons of liquid hot pepper seasoning; ever mindful of possible litigation, we have reduced this quantity. If you are a professional fire-eater, you may use the full amount.
Creole Shrimp Cakes
1 to 2 tablespoons salad oil 1 cup chopped onion 3/4 cup chopped green bell pepper 3/4 cup diced celery 2 cans (8 oz. each) tomato sauce 1 cup regular-strength chicken broth 1 teaspoon dry oregano leaves 1/2 teaspoon ground cumin 1/2 to 1 teaspoon liquid hot pepper
2 large eggs
1 1/2 cups cooked long-grain white rice
1/2 cup oat bran 3/4 pound shelled cooked tiny shrimp
Lime or lemon wedges Pour 1 tablespoon oil into a 3- to 4-quart pan over medium heat; add onion, bell pepper, and celery. Stir often until vegetables are soft, about 10 minutes; add a little more oil if vegetables stick. Mix in tomato sauce, broth, oregano, cumin, and hot pepper seasoning to taste. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat and simmer, uncovered, for 10 minutes; set aside. In a bowl, beat eggs to blend with rice, oat bran, and about 1 cup of the tomato sauce mixture. Divide rice mixture equally among 6 very well-greased 2 1/2-inch muffin cups. Bake in a 350 [degrees] oven until rice cakes are dry to touch, about 25 minutes. When cakes are ready, invert onto a platter and keep warm. Return sauce to high heat and stir until boiling; add shrimp to sauce and pour into a bowl. Garnish cakes with lime wedges. On individual plates, ladle sauce onto cakes and squeeze on lime juice to taste. Makes 6 first-course or 3 entree servings. Per first-course serving: 340 cal.; 20 g protein; 5.8 g fat; 76 g carbo.; 642 mg sodium; 181 mg chol.
It's hard to beat a pork tenderloin: think of your favorite bites of a pork chop; then think of a piece of meat big enough to provide those bites from several chops; then imagine being freed from the work of getting the meat off the bone. Because it is very tender and has been trimmed of waste, the cut is somewhat expensive, but it's well worth the cost--especially when enhanced by a marinade and barbecued over hot coals. Harold Merkow's marinade, Asian in inspiration, has an unusual ingredient--powdered instant orange-flavor drink mix; we included it for authenticity but offer it as an alternative to freshly grated orange peel. There's enough marinade to season another tenderloin, if you want more.
Barbecued Pork Tenderloin
1 pork tenderloin (3/4 to 1 lb.) 1 clove garlic, minced or mashed
3/4 teaspoon ground ginger 1/8 teaspoon crushed dried hot red
chillies 1/2 teaspoon dry mustard
2 tablespoons firmly packed brown
sugar 1/2 teaspoon grated orange peel, or 1/2
teaspoon powdered instant
orange-flavor drink mix
1 tablespoon salad oil 3 tablespoons rice vinegar 1 tablespoon soy sauce 1 teaspoon cornstarch
Trim and discard excess fat and membrane from pork. In a deep bowl, stir to mix garlic, ginger, chilies, mustard, brown sugar, orange peel, oil, vinegar, and soy. Roll pork in mixture, then cover and chill at least 30 minutes or up to 3 hours; turn meat over several times. Lift meat from marinade, drain briefly, and place on a lightly greased grill, 4 to 6 inches above a solid bed of hot coals (you can hold your hand at grill level for only 2 to 3 seconds). Brush pork with marinade, cover grill, and open dampers. Cook meat, turning to brown evenly and basting occasionally with marinade, until a meat thermometer inserted into thickest portion registers 150 [degrees] to 155 [degrees], about 20 minutes. Transfer to a platter and keep warm. Add water to remaining marinade to make 1/2 cup total. Add cornstarch and stir over high heat until boiling. To serve, cut meat crosswise into thin slices and spoon sauce onto slices. Makes 3 servings. Per serving: 215 cal.; 24 g protein; 7.5 g fat; 12 g carbo.; 404 mg sodium; 74 mg chol.
Samuel Nash's "salsa" has affinities both with its Mexican namesake and with Spanish gazpacho; you could think of it as gazpacho firma. The Mexican product is loosely based on tomato, onion, garlic, green and red bell peppers, and vinegar, while Nash's Mediterranean version also includes cucumber and basil, with oil to smooth. Thoroughly Mediterranean feta cheese goes into the mixture at the very end. Then you eat it--either as an independent dish or mixed with leafy greens as a salad.
4 medium-sized (about 2 lb. total)
firm-ripe tomatoes, cored, seeded,
4 green onions (ends trimmed), thinly
sliced 1/2 cup seeded and diced cucumber 1/2 cup finely diced green or red bell
pepper 1/4 cup olive oil
2 tablespoons white wine vinegar 1 teaspoon pepper 1 clove garlic, minced or pressed
1 tablespoon dry basil leaves
1/2 teaspoon dry marjoram leaves
6 ounces feta cheese, crumbled
In a large bowl, combine tomatoes, onions, cucumber, bell pepper, oil, vinegar, pepper, garlic, basil, and marjoram. If made ahead, cover and chill up until next day. Stir in feta cheese. Makes about 5 cups, 5 or 6 servings as a vegetable dish. Per serving: 190 cal.; 5.7 g protein; 15 g fat; 9.2 g carbo.; 329 mg sodium; 25 mg chol.
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|Date:||Apr 1, 1990|
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