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He wouldn't dare leave out the insouciance.

But Martin Le Masters decides to lower the fat in his version of jambalaya

CAJUN CUISINE PAYS little attention to the number of ingredients it employs and none at all to calorie count. This insouciance is nowhere better displayed than in jambalaya, which might be described as the condemned prisoner's last meal-in-a-pot. Martin Le Masters, who learned to make jambalaya from his chef father, continues to use all of the spices, vegetables, and aromatics of the original stew, but he has substituted lower-fat bacon, ham, and sausage made from turkey for the regular bacon, ham, and andouille sausage. The turkey products are remarkably similar to the originals, and in a spicy dish such as this no one is likely to notice the switch.

Of course, you can use the original meats at the cost of a higher fat content. However, if cholesterol rather than fat is your concern, note that oysters and shrimp, though low in fat, are both high in cholesterol.

Easy-on-your-heart Jambalaya

1 large (about 1/2 lb.) onion, chopped 1 medium-size (6- or 7-oz.) green bell pepper, stemmed, seeded, and chopped 1/4 cup diced celery 1 teaspoon minced or pressed garlic 1/4 pound turkey sausage, thinly sliced 2 slices turkey bacon, diced 1/4 pound turkey ham, cut into 1/2-inch cubes 1 dried bay leaf 1/4 teaspoon cayenne 1/2 teaspoon each dried thyme leaves, dried basil leaves, and pepper 1/4 cup chopped parsley 1 cup long-grain white rice 1 can (1 lb.) cut-up tomatoes 3 cups regular-strength chicken broth 1 jar (10 oz.) shucked fresh small Pacific oysters 1 pound medium-size (45 to 50) shrimp, shelled and deveined Salt

In a 5- to 6-quart pan over high heat, combine onion, bell pepper, celery, garlic, and 1/2 cup water. Stir often until moisture evaporates and vegetables begin to stick to pan, about 10 minutes. Stir free with 2 tablespoons water. Add turkey sausage, bacon, and ham; stir often until mixture begins to brown, 8 to 10 minutes.

Stir in bay leaf, cayenne, thyme, basil, pepper, parsley, rice, tomatoes and their liquid, broth, and juices drained from oysters. Bring to a boil over high heat; cover and simmer until rice is tender to bite, 30 to 40 minutes. Stir occasionally.

Add shrimp and oysters (cut in half if large) and cook, uncovered, just until shrimp turn pink, about 8 minutes; stir often. Season to taste with salt. Makes 8 servings.

Per serving: 249 cal. (20 percent from fat); 21 g protein; 5.4 g fat (1.5 g sat.); 28 g carbo.; 502 mg sodium; 111 mg chol.

THE BLACK SWAN WAS once thought to be an impossibility (it was the original rara avis, or rare bird, of poetry and folk wisdom), but the discovery of Australia led also to the discovery of real black swans.

The moral of this tale is that the world is an unending source of marvels. One of these is a white white-chocolate chip cookie invented by Gerry Cutler. Unable to obtain the recipe from the proprietor of a Washington coffee shop, Cutler produced this superior version by research, experimentation, and the use of a fine palate.

White chocolate is not chocolate that has been bleached. It is a blend of essentially colorless cocoa butter (separated from chocolate), sugar, and flavorings. It is milder in flavor than regular chocolate. Now who will devise a chocolate cookie with white chocolate chips?

White White Chocolate Cookies

1 1/4 cups all-purpose flour 3 tablespoons cornstarch 1/4 cup sugar 1 teaspoon baking powder 1/2 cup (1/4 lb.) butter or margarine, cut into chunks 1/4 cup coarsely chopped almonds 2 tablespoons unsweetened dried flaked account 1/2 cup coarsely chopped white chocolate 1/4 cup milk

In a food processor or bowl, mix flour, cornstarch, sugar, and baking powder. Add butter; whirl or rub with your fingers to form fine crumbs. Stir in almonds, coconut, and chocolate. Then add milk and stir until mixture is moistened.

With floured hands, roll dough into 1 1/2-inch balls. Place balls 2 inches apart on ungreased 12- by 15-inch baking sheets. Press each ball to 3/8-inch thick.

Bake in a 300|degrees~ oven until cookies are a rich golden brown, about 35 minutes. If using 1 oven, alternate pan positions after 15 minutes. Transfer cookies to racks; serve warm or cool. To store, seal airtight and hold at room temperature up to a day; freeze to store longer. Makes about 2 dozen.

Per cookie: 101 cal. (53 percent from fat); 1.3 g protein; 5.9 g fat (2.7 g sat.); 11 g carbo.; 61 mg sodium; 11 mg chol.
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Title Annotation:Chefs of the West; recipes
Author:Dunmire, Richard; Griffiths, Joan
Article Type:Column
Date:Dec 1, 1992
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