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Ham and eggs pizza - for breakfast.

Or could we interest you in dried tomato canape spread?

Pizza for breakfast? Why not, especially if it contains ham and eggs? This showy pizza, its crust formed by a purchased Italian bread shell, is an impressive way to serve breakfast or brunch at a family gathering. Remember when scrambling the eggs that they will continue to cook under the broiler as the cheese topping melts--so you may want the eggs a tad soft when you put them in the bread shell.

Gardner Cook's recipe does not call for additional toppings, but if you set out ripe black olives, chopped tomatoes, marinated artichoke hearts, or whatever, they will mysteriously disappear.

Breakfast Pizza

10 large eggs

1/2 cup thinly sliced green onions, including tops

3/4 cup coarsely chopped turkey ham

1 tablespoon butter or margarine

1 large (12-in.-wide, 1-lb.) refrigerated or frozen

baked Italian bread shell

1 cup each (1/4 lb. each) shredded jack cheese and shredded sharp cheddar cheese

In a bowl, beat eggs to blend with onions and ham. In a 10- to 12-inch frying pan over medium heat, melt butter; add egg mixture. As eggs cook, lift cooked portions to allow uncooked eggs to flow underneath. Cook until eggs are set but still very moist on top.

Meanwhile, set bread shell on a 12- by 15-inch baking sheet. Sprinkle shell with jack cheese. Broil about 4 inches from heat until cheese melts, 1 to 2 minutes.

Spoon egg mixture evenly onto melted cheese; sprinkle eggs with cheddar cheese and broil until it melts, about 1 minute. Cut into wedges. Makes 8 servings.

Per serving: 386 cal. (49 percent from fat); 24 g protein; 21 g fat (6 g sat.); 26 g carbo.; 702 mg sodium; 308 mg chol.

Sausalito, California

MERLE ALEXANDER shares with us this recipe. It combines two of his family's favorite desserts (Mom's apple pie and Aunt Hattie's pecan pie). The result is praline apple pie, and it is a no-holds-barred, take-no-prisoners, devastatingly rich finish to a special meal. The apple portion of the filling is straightforward classical apple pie.

The praline is not the powdered nut brittle of classical French cooking but a spiritual descendant combining sugar, corn syrup, eggs, and flavoring to create a dark, rich custard like that of a traditional pecan pie. The pecans display themselves on the top of the apple layer.

Praline Apple Pie

2 pounds tart apples, such as Newtown, Pippin, or Granny Smith

1 tablespoon butter or margarine

2 tablespoons granulated sugar

1 tablespoon lemon juice

1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg

Pastry for a single-crust 9-inch pie

2 large eggs

1/2 cup firmly packed brown sugar

3/4 cup light corn syrup

1/2 teaspoon vanilla

1/4 teaspoon maple flavoring

1 cup coarsely chopped pecans

Peel, core, and thinly slice apples. In a 10- to 12-inch frying pan over medium heat, stir butter and granulated sugar until butter melts. Add apples, lemon juice, and nutmeg. Turn apples often with a spatula just until limp, about 10 minutes; let cool.

Meanwhile, roll out pastry on a foured board to fit a 9-inch pie pan. Put pastry in pan and flute rim. Pour apples into pastry and press gently to make an even, compact layer.

In a small bowl, beat eggs to blend with brown sugar, syrup, vanilla, maple flavoring, and pecans; pour this praline mixture onto apples.

Set pie on a larger baking sheet to catch any boilover. Bake on a lower rack in a 375|degree~ oven until pastry is a rich golden brown and nut topping is set when gently shaken, 50 to 60 minutes. Let stand until lukewarm or cool, at least 1 hour. If making ahead, cover and chill up to a day. Cut into wedges. Makes 8 or 9 servings.

Per serving: 394 cal. (39 percent from fat); 3.7 g protein; 17 g fat (3.5 g sat.); 59 g carbo.; 193 mg sodium; 51 mg chol.

Hoquiam, Washington

FOR A FULL ACCOUNT of the origins of the Mexican sauce called mole, see pages 100 through 104 of the March 1992 issue of Sunset. There you will find detailed instructions for making mole poblano, the best known of Mexico's chocolate-shaded sauces. This go-for-broke recipe contains 21 ingredients, including four kinds of chilies, and requires much roasting, toasting, and pureeing, as well as a number of pans. Todd Christoffel's Ground Turkey Chili Mole contains somewhat fewer ingredients and requires only one pan.

Although chocolate is present (in the form of cocoa), chilies, oddly enough, are not; their place is taken by yet another form of chili, liquid hot pepper seasoning. The flavor is still mole, and you will still say ole!

Ground Turkey Chili Mole

1 medium-size (about 5-oz.) onion, chopped

1 pound ground turkey

2 cloves garlic, minced or pressed

1 can (8 oz.) tomato sauce

1 can (15 oz.) stewed tomatoes

1 can (about 15 oz.) kidney beans, rinsed and drained

1 tablespoon molasses

1/4 teaspoon liquid hot pepper seasoning

1 tablespoon cocoa

1 teaspoon each paprika and ground cumin

1/2 teaspoon each dried oregano leaves and dried basil leaves

Tortilla or corn chips

In a 4- to 5-quart pan over high heat, combine onion and 1/4 cup water. Boil, uncovered, until liquid evaporates and onion begins to stick. Add another 1/4 cup water, stir to free browned bits, and boil dry again. Add 1/4 cup water and repeat step.

Add turkey and garlic; stir, crumbling meat and cooking until it's no longer pink and juices have cooked away.

Stir in tomato sauce, tomatoes, beans, molasses, hot pepper seasoning, cocoa, paprika, cumin, oregano, and basil. Bring to a boil, reduce heat, cover, and simmer until flavors are well blended, about 30 minutes.

Spoon into bowls; serve with tortilla chips. Makes 4 or 5 servings.

Per serving: 254 cal. (28 percent from fat); 22 g protein; 7.8 g fat (2 g sat.); 25 g carbo.; 691 mg sodium; 66 mg chol.


DIFFERENCE OF OPINION, it is said, is what makes horse racing interesting. The same might be said of tapenade, the canape spread sometimes called nicoise caviar. Differences of opinion lie in the choice of ingredients and their proportions. The original formula contained anchovies, tuna, olives, capers, and seasonings. (Tapeno is Provencal for caper.) Some cooks add garlic, some mustard; some add olive oil, others do not. One revolutionary recipe omits capers, which seems a deliberate flouting both of history and of etymology.

Among these variations, the use of black olives has been a constant. But a light bulb went on over the head of Gary Danko, chef at The Ritz-Carlton Hotel in San Francisco, as he contemplated a jar of dried tomatoes in oil. There is, he thought, also red caviar; why not red tapenade? So history is made. Serve this sharp-sweet spread on crisp toast rounds or unsalted crackers, topped, perhaps, with a little fresh chevre. Enjoy the combination with salad or beverages.

Dried Tomato Tapenade

1 jar (about 8 oz., 1 cup) drained dried tomatoes packed in oil

1/2 cup drained canned capers

1 can (2 oz.) anchovy fillets, drained and chopped

1 tablespoon minced or pressed garlic

1 tablespoon chopped parsley

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

2 teaspoons brandy (optional)

1 1/2 teaspoons Dijon mustard

In a food processor or blender, coarsely puree tomatoes, capers, anchovies, garlic, parsley, olive oil, brandy, and mustard. Serve, or cover and chill up to 1 week. Makes about 1 1/3 cups.

Per tablespoon: 42 cal. (64 percent from fat); 1.3 g protein; 3 g fat (0.4 g sat.); 3.2 g carbo.; 179 mg sodium; 1.2 mg chol.
COPYRIGHT 1993 Sunset Publishing Corp.
No portion of this article can be reproduced without the express written permission from the copyright holder.
Copyright 1993 Gale, Cengage Learning. All rights reserved.

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Title Annotation:Chefs of the West; recipes
Author:Dunmire, Richard; Griffiths, Joan
Article Type:Column
Date:Mar 1, 1993
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