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Hail to the breakfast chef. Long live his pancakes, omelets, granola.

Breakfast occurs at what for many is an inglorrious time of day, so it may be no wonder that men who cook--many of whom enjoy an accompanying bask in a bit of glory--generally save their efforts for later meals.

But breakfast is the cornerstone of the day and as such deserves better than a routine discharge of nutritional duty. A creative breakfast may signify the hand of an architect building a creative day. "Self-esteem," Donald Bartheleme goes so far as to say, "is rooted in breakfast."

Plaudits, then, for our July chefs--for services to our spirits as well as to our bodies, in an arena of little acclaim.

Bread--in the broadest sense--forms the foundation of even the simplest breakfasts. The French give you nothing else with coffee and milk--although, with luck, your bread will be a flaky croissant or a brioche. The English serve toast chilled on metal racks expressly designed for the purpose. Other Europeans fortify themselves with a rich variety of pancakes, pastries, and waffles. Americans have borrowed all of these and, with their great resources in grains, have added notably to the hot bread and pancake repertories.

Lyle Farrow contributes a pancake based on three flours with added bran. The pancakes are remarkably light and tender, with the bran lending a nutty-sweet flavor and sense of substance. Rice Bran Pancakes

2/3 cup each rice flour, whole-wheat flour, and unprocessed bran

1 cup unbleached all-purpose flour

2 tablespoon sugar

1 teaspoon each baking soda and salt

2 eggs

2-1/2 cups buttermilk

2 tablespoons salad oil

Butter or margarine

In a large mixing bowl, stir together the rice flour, whole-wheat flour, bran, all-purpose flour, sugar, soda, and salt. In another bowl, beat the eggs to blend, then stir in the buttermilk and oil; pour into dry ingredients and stir until combined.

Heat a griddle or a 10- to 12-inch frying pan over medium-high heat. Swirl 1 to 2 teaspoons butter over surface to coat lightly. For each pancake, pour about 1/4 cup batter onto griddle and spread into a 4- to 5-inch round. Cook until bubbles appear on the surface, then turn and cook until bottom is golden, 4 to 6 minutes total. MAkes about 1-1/2 dozen pancakes.

Pancake syrup is so easy to buy, and so little considered, that few people trouble to make it. In fact, making your own involves little trouble or expense.

Rob Roger's syrup pleased all our tasters except one die-hard who claimed to use only pure Vermont maple syrup. Uncle Rob's Syrup, as he calls it, has a pleasing, not-too-thick pouring consistency, a good amber color, and a flavor that blends the tastes of caramel, maple, and butter. Uncle Rob's Syrup

1 bottle (16 oz.) dark or light corn syrup

1/2 cup each sugar and water

1/2 teaspoon maple flavoring

1/4 teaspoon caramel flavoring

1 drop butter flavoring, optional

In a 1-1/2 to 2-quart pan, stir together the corn syrup, sugar, and water. Place over medium-high heat and cook, stirring constantly, until sugar has dissolved. Stir in the m aple, caramel, and butter flavorings (if used). Bring to a boil, stirring constantly, and boil 5 minutes.

Remove from heat, skim off and discard any foam, and serve hot. Or let cool and pour into a bottle; cover and store in the refrigerator indefinitely. Serve cold, or reheat. Makes 2-1/2 cups.

When Crunchy Granola first appeared on the scene during the '60s, the older, more sedate element of the population assumed that he was a boxer from South Philadelphia. Now everyone knows what it really is--the staple of the health-food set, a crisp, mildly sweet blend of grains, nuts, and seeds that can serve as a breakfast cereal with milk (or additive to other cereals), snack, or topping for soft foods such as ice cream, puddings, or yogurt.

Dan Finkle's formula is nutritious, delicious, and very low in cholesterol. Crunchy Danola

6 cups regular or quick-cooking rolled oats

2 cups untoasted wheat germ

1 cup chopped walnuts

1 cup unroasted sunflower seeds

1/2 cup sesame seed

3/4 cup each salad oil and honey

1/3 cup water

1 teaspoon vanilla

In a large bowl, combine oats, wheat germ, chopped walnuts, sunflower seeds, and sesame seed. Stir together the oil, noney, water, and vanilla until well mixed; pour over the oat mixture and stir to coat evenly.

Spread mixture equally in two 10- by 15-inch rimmed baking pans. Bake in a 325 [deg.] oven until lightly browned and crisp, 40 to 45 minutes; stir several times. Remove from oven and let cool completely. Serve, or store in an airtight container at room temperature up to 2 months. Makes about 12 cups of Crunchy Danola.

The Frenchman who regularly breakfasts on coffee and a roll might suffer a liver crisis if ne were to eat one of Marty Pujolar's Breakfast Burritos, but the Westerner who can handle steak and eggs at breakfast will have no problem.

Take some features of enchiladas suizas (flour tortillas, sour cream); add more conventional breakfast fare (scrambled eggs, sausage); then color up with avocado, ripe olives, Cheddar cheese, and tomatoes--and you have a m eal to match the men who match the mountains.

If your stomach doesn't wake up in time for breakfast, consider these as brunch, luncheon, or even Sunday-night-supper burritos. Breakfast Burritos

8 flour tortillas (7-in. size)

3/4 pound (or a 12-oz. package) hot-seasoned bulk pork sausage

1/2 cup thinly sliced green onion

8 eggs

2 cups (1 pt.) sour cream Bottled red or green taco sauce

1-1/2 cups shredded sharp Cheddar cheese

1 large ripe avocado, peeled, pitted, and sliced

1 cup cored, seeded, and chopped tomatoes

1 can (2-1/4 oz). sliced ripe olives, drained

Stack tortillas and wrap in foil. Place in a 350 [deg.] oven until warm, about 15 minutes.

Meanwhile, crumble sausage into a 10- to 12-inch frying pan over medium heat; add onion and cook, stirring often, until meat is browned. Drain off excess fat.

Beat eggs to blend, then pour into pan and cook (lift set portion to allow uncooked egg to flow underneath) until done to your liking. Remove from heat.

To assemble each burritos, spread 2 tablespoons of the sour cream on a warm tortilla, then spoon 1/4 cup of the egg mixture in the center of the tortilla and drizzle with taco sauce.

Fold one end of the tortilla over onto the filling, then fold in the two opposite sides onto the filling; roll to enclose filling. Place, seam side down, in a greased 9- by 13-inch baking pan.

When all burritos are assembled, spread remaining sour cream evenly over the tops; sprinkle with cheese. Bake in a 350 [deg.] oven until cheese is melted and burritos are hot through, about 10 minutes.

Garnish each burrito with avocado, tomatoes, and olives. Serve hot. Offer additonal taco sauce for individual servings. Makes 8 servings of 1 burrito each.

Breakfast is Don Rosner's favorite meal, and an omelet one of his favorite dishes. As a marathon runner interested in the state of his heart, he considers that the conventional omelet has too much cholesterol. His Runner's Omelet is an easy compromise: two real egg whites and a carton of cholesterol-free egg substitute form the foundation; spinach and diced green chilies heighten the flavor. Runner's Omelet

1 carton (8 oz.) thawed frozen cholesterol-free egg substitute plus 2 egg whites (or 1 egg plus 4 egg whites)

1 can (4 oz.) diced green chilies Nonstick vegetable cooking spray or 1 tablespoon margarine

1/2 cup freshy cooked hot spinach; or thawed frozen chopped spinach, heated and drained

Beat to blend the egg substitute and the 2 egg whites (or the whole egg and 4 egg whites) with the chilies.

Spray an 8- to 10-inch frying pan with sloping sides (preferably one with a nonstick finish) with the nonstick vegetable cooking spray or add the margarine to pan and set over medium heat.

When pan is hot, pour in the egg mixture and cook, lifting cooked portion to allow uncooked part to flow underneath. Gently shake pan to keep omelet free.

Spoon spinach down the center of the omelet, in line with pan handle. With a spatula, flip about 1/3 of the omelet over onto the filling. Holding pan, slide unfolded edge of omelet onto a plate, then tip pan to fold omelet out of pan. Serve hot. Makes 1 serving.
COPYRIGHT 1984 Sunset Publishing Corp.
No portion of this article can be reproduced without the express written permission from the copyright holder.
Copyright 1984 Gale, Cengage Learning. All rights reserved.

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Title Annotation:includes recipes
Date:Jul 1, 1984
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