Guiding light: the FDA Final Rule went into effect in 2012. Now, marketers are ready to roll out a variety of innovations to suit these standards. A list of new ingredients for sun care formulations begins on p. 80.
As much as marketers are churning out line extensions of popular sun care products, the US Food and Drug Adm inistration (FDA) has also been busy, as its Final Rule on Sunscreens went into effect on. Dec. 17, 2012. But deadlines vary. For sunscreen products marketed under the OTC Monograph System, the compliance date for products with sales of $25,000 or more was Dec. 17, 2012. For sunscreen products marketed under the OTC Monograph System with sales of less than $25,000 the compliance date is Dec. 17, 2013.
The long-awaited Rule Should not be confused with the illusive Final Monograph that has yet to be issued. The process leading to this point has been lengthy, and while this occasion marks a new stage, we are far from finalizing all outstanding issues.
The Final Rule means that most OTC sunscreen products introduced or delivered for introduction into interstate commerce, on or after Dec. 17, 2012, must comply with the testing and labeling requirements of the Sunscreen Final Rule published June 17, 2011.
The three most significant changes in the labeling requirements are with "broad spectrum" protection and the new requirement that the SPF must be above 15 to qualify as a sunscreen in order to make the claim that "'sunscreen reduces the risk of skin cancer and early skin aging when used as directed," and the changes in the requirement of the Drug Facts box. However, FDA still requests comments on the possible warnings and directions for spray usage and issues regarding dosage forms. Spray safety and SPF 50+ labeling are still subject to finalization pending the outcome of the comments period and evaluation.
A SUNNY YEAR FOR SUN CARE SALES Here are the category total and top five players in the suntan lotion and oil segment in food, drug, mass market retailers, military commissaries and select club and dollar retail chains for the 52 weeks ending Dec. 30, 2012. Dollar Sales Dollar Unit Sales Unit Sales % Sales % Chg. Chg. YAgo YAgo SUNTAN $1,158,602,000 X63 147,765,700 2.84 LOTION & OIL PLAYTEX $304,147,600 3.66 41,887,120 5.90 PRODUCTS INC. MERCK & $292,856,000 3.70 34.942,020 0.77 CO. NEUTROGENA $213,310,100 6.62 20,624,350 6.71 CORP. PRIVATE $170,493,900 (0.59) 29.222,460 (2.26) LABEL UOREAL $43,327,320 13.87 4,567,064 13.62 PARIS Source: Infoscan Reviews, SymphonyIRI Group, Chicago
Towelettes and powder products are not eligible for consideration under the pending OTC Sunscreen Monograph and would therefore be subject to regulatory action. The FDA does not currently consider these products covered by the OTC Monograph system.
"I welcome the finalization of the FDA Sunscreen Final Rule," said industry expert and HAITI columnist Nadiam Shaath, Alpha R&D. "The majority of the chaos that the sunscreen industry has been experiencing in the past 30 years will be delayed and hopefully eliminated. The rules, however, have been relaxed--not strengthened."
Marketers Weigh In
Given the focus on the new FDA monograph regulations, broad spectrum UVA/UVB protection has become "a point of necessity" in the category for consumers looking for sun protection, noted Anthony Pietrini, brand manager, sun care, Energizer, Shelton, CT, which markets Banana Boat and Hawaiian Tropic.
"Today's shoppers require more than just basic protection from their sun care. Consumers are now looking for their sun care to provide additional benefits aside from UVA/UVB protection, or what we commonly refer to as 'protection plus," he told HAPPI.
Curt Cole, vice president of the R&D skin care innovation platforms group, Johnson & Johnson, Skillman, NI, thinks the UVA/UVB element is the most crucial in the making of a sun care product.
"Under the new FDA sun monograph, all sunscreens must pass a specific test that shows they can protect across UVA and UVB rays in order to be labeled broad-spectrum. However, just because many sunscreens 'pass' this test, not all broad-spectrum sunscreens are the same. The broad-spectrum test is a simple pass/fail grading and looks at just one factor in determining the benefits of a sunscreen--how 'wide' is the absorbance across the UV spectrum. One way to pass this test is to lower UVB protection as it is more difficult to pass with higher UVB protection," he said.
Coppertone supports the FDA's sunscreen labeling rules as well. According to Patricia Agin, Ph.D., director of scientific affairs and R&D leader for Merck Consumer Care's Therapeutic Skincare Franchise, Memphis, TN, all Coppertone sprays and lotions with an SPF of 15 or greater in stores today meet the FDA's new standard for "broad spectrum" protection.
"Coppertone offers a variety of sun care products with SPF ratings to best suit the needs and preferences of our consumers," she said. "All Coppertone products comply with the FDA's labeling rules that went into effect in December 2012 and any of the proposed rules that may be finalized in the future."
In today's economy, people seek value when buying sun care products. Budget-friendliness, portability and convenience are some of the qualities that shoppers look for when choosing products with SPF, said Agin.
"Families are especially on-the-go and want sun protection for every occasion--whether they are packing for vacation or heading out to run errands," she told HAm. "That's why they value options that are designed to meet a variety of needs. By offering a range of products with different forms, people can ultimately find the sun care options that best complement their lifestyles and daily activities."
Dr. Zein Obagi, founder of ZO Skin Health, Beverly Hills, CA, sees room for improvement in the sun care segment. He told HAPPI," We have improved sun protection products and raised the SPF to 100 however, all these sun protection products, protects skin for no more than 90 minutes, as they are rubbed off the skin. The negative of this innovation is that it created a false sense of safety; we are seeing more sun damage, more skin cancer. What is lacking in this arena is the recommendation of the reapplication of sunscreen every 90 minutes and this is impossible to do."
Efficacy and feel are also two elements that are crucial to a winning sun care formulation, noted Dr. Julius W. Few, founder, The Few Institute. The Chicago, IL group markets JF Aesthetic Skin Care, which has a Smooth Shade (Melashade E Sunscreen) SPF 30.
"First and foremost, something that effectively works to prevent broad-spectrum damage: painful burns caused by UVB rays and premature Skin aging caused by UVA rays. Awareness is on the upswing, fueled in part by the FDA's new sunscreen regulations, which now require products to be tested for UVA/UVB protection before they're able to make broad-spectrum claims," he said. "Second, it's about the experience. A product may work well, but no one wants to use a product that streaks the skin white, makes it look chalky, or has a strong or displeasing scent. Consumers want an elegant formulation that will blend into the skin, make it feel and look good, and have a light or neutral scent."
Shoppers are also breaking away from the classic lotion form of sunscreen, according to Dr. Howard Sobel, attending dermatologist and dermatologic surgeon at Lenox Hill Hospital, New York. He told HAPPI, "A great alternative now are sticks and sprays. These give the same benefits as lotion but are easier to apply, they rub into the skin better and are less messy. They still having lasting protection against UV rays and are healthy for the skin."
Overall, shoppers are looking to get the most "bang-for-their-buck" when it comes to sun care products.
"A standard sunscreen is no longer going to cut it. instead, they want multifunctional, high SPF (SPF 25+) sunscreens that not only offer sun protection, but also act as a moisturizer, and incorporate anti-aging and age correcting benefits, such as peptides and super-powered antioxidants, for an all-in-one protect and strengthen application," noted Janae Muzzy, vice president of research and development, Epicuren Discovery, Laguna Hills, CA. Her company, which has a celebrity following, is set to roll out the Epicuren Zinc Oxide Moisturizer SPF 25+ for Summer 2013.
"The hottest trends in sunscreens are mineral-based SPFs. People want natural ingredients and their sunscreen is no exception," she said. "Tints added to sun care help give the skin a light sun-kissed glow while evening the appearance of skin tone are also currently trending. Many of the tinted SPFs are replacing the separate SPF and foundation makeup."
Innovative ingredients, new forms and skin-specific SKUs top the list of rollouts in sun care for 201.3. Marketers are upping the ante with a variety of line extensions.
"By offering a range of products with different forms, people can ultimately find the sun care options that best complement their lifestyles and daily activities," noted Agin of Coppertone. "Awareness in skin health and the benefits associated with sunscreen use is growing. Personalization is key--consumers are increasingly interested in choosing the right SPF based on their skin type, lifestyle and sun protection needs.
"For example, parents want to make sunscreen application fun and engaging for both themselves and their children. That's why scientists at the Coppertone Solar Research Center introduced Coppertone Kids Wacky Foam, a delicate foaming lotion that is easy to use and provides broad-spectrum protection. Similarly, new Coppertone travel size lotions and Coppertone Sport Lip Balm focus on ease and convenience. These wallet-friendly, portable offerings can help ensure that sun protection is accessible for any occasion."
Another novelty from Coppertone for 2013 is the new Tattoo Guard. According to Agin, "The industry is evolving to meet unique sun care needs. For example, individuals who want to protect against UVA and UVB rays that can fade or blur their tattoos can benefit from this new product. Available in a stick or lotion, the moisturizing formulas can help maintain the smooth appearance of tattooed skin."
J&J is adding to its portfolio of successful sun care brands (Neutrogena's sales exceeded $200 million during the past year, according to SymplionyIRD, with a new sun care collection from Aveeno. Billed as hydrating sun protection, the products are said to provide 24-hour skin moisturization and superior UVA/UVB defense. Aveeno Protect + Hydrate has been shown to reduce water loss by providing 50% more hydration than the leading competitive sunscreen, keeping skin soft, smooth and healthy looking, according to the company. Emiroguard technology provides photostable, broad-spectrum coverage to protect skin against the sun's damaging effects, while Active Naturals oat works to replenish the skin barrier. The products are available in SPF 30, 50 and 70 oil-free lotions at food, drug and mass merchandisers nationwide this month. Neutrogena also recently launched its Beach Defense Sunscreen Line, which is said to repel salt and other skin-damaging elements in SPF 30 and 70 in a spray or lotion form.
"Consumers are able to customize their sun care regimens for their lifestyles. The Neutrogena portfolio is expansive--there are products specifically developed for athletes, babies, acne-prone skin, aging skin and our latest launch is perfect for the whole family," said Cole of J&J. "Neutrogena Beach Defense is a broad-spectrum sunscreen designed to protect skin from the sun and impurities in water. This line is made to repel salt and other elements that can damage skin while also being sweat-proof and water-resistant to ensure your skin remains in the best shape while being protected against the sun."
At Energizer, new developments are underway at both Banana Boat and Hawaiian Tropic. The former, recovering from a massive recall in October 2012 for flammability issues surrounding spray sunscreens, features new products with a focus on ingredients and feel rather than form. New Banana Boat Protect & Hydrate sunscreen lotion goes beyond sun protection to keep skin 100% hydrated with aloe vera and antioxidants for moisture that lasts all day, according to the company, and is available in SIT 15-50. Banana Boat Sport Performance CoolZone sunscreen lotions, in SPF 30 and 50, are water-resistant for 80 minutes and reportedly cool and refresh skin on contact. Also, the popular Hawaiian Tropic Silk Hydration sunscreen is now available in a clear mist spray. The brand is also adding on to the range with the Hawaiian Tropic Silk Hydration After Sun Lotion, the first and only after sun product that combines ribbons of gel and lotion, according to the company.
Meanwhile, L'Oreal Paris is adding new forms to its Sublime Sun Collection. The high SPF oils and foaming mousse sunscreens offer consumers a wider range of options for optimal sun protection, according to the company. These new products feature the same photostable UV filter system and powerful antioxidants as the original Sublime Sun lotions and clear spray mists in SPF 30 and 50+. The oil-free lightweight mousses feature vitamin E and white grape seed oil, while the oil sprays contain a blend of argan, shea, grapeseed and sunflower oils. The formulas include a light beach-inspired scent and utilize L'Oreal's patent-pending polymer technology for improved water resistance.
Sister brand La Roche-Posay is also bulking up its Anthelios range with Cell-OX Shield XL, which debuts in April. This SKU was developed with a combination of filters that delivers advanced UVA/UVB and antioxidant protection using 21% less ingredients, according to the company, and offers broad-spectrum protection with SPF 60. The fast-absorbing, lightweight texture is water-resistant for up to 80 minutes--the maximum time recognized by the FDA. La Roche-Posay is also set to debut the Ariel hellos 50 Tinted Mineral Ultra Light Sunscreen Fluid for Body in May.
Valeant Pharmaceuticals is entering the sun care category with seven new CeraVe products to be sold in the sun protection aisle at drugstores and mass-market retailers nationwide in April 2013. The CeraVe Sun Care line, includes products for the face and body with various applications .offering both broad spectrum SPF 30 and SPF 50 protection. The brand named USA Swimmer Rebecca Soni, six-time Olympic medalist, as a spokesperson.
According to the company, products utilize a "purely physical" sunscreen, zinc oxide, now in a high-tech, micronized form. This technology helps deliver a unique dry, clear finish on the skin. Prices range from $9.99416.99 and vary from a facial sunscreen to solid stick to spray.
Also in the mass market, popular naturals brand Yes To is stepping, into the sun care forum with a new range of Yes To Cucumbers products. Cucumber extracts cools and soothes, while SKUs include Natural Sunscreen Stick SPF 30, formulated with shea and cocoa butter and an after-sun serum infused with mica for a little shimmer.
"Natural ingredients have evolved tremendously over the past 50 years. We now have a huge library of ingredients at our fingertips from which to. build amazing, effective formulas that are at least 95% natural," I do Leffler, co-founder, Yes To, Inc., San Francisco, CA, told HAITI.
Also big in naturals, Mustela has rolled out a sun care range for baby, which will be widely available to consumer in May, just in time for the summer season in the US. The new Broad Spectrum SPF 50+ Mineral Sunscreen Lotion and Broad Spectrum SPF 50+ Mineral Sunscreen Stick meet the most recent FDA requirements for sunscreen, according to the brand. Mustela's formulations are 100% mineral, using titanium dioxide and zinc oxide.
In addition to the sun protection SKUs, Mustela is also rolling out an After Sun Hydrating Spray.
"The hottest trends in sun care right now are definitely luxury formulas and the use of natural ingredients," noted Salvatore Piazzolia, president and owner, Hampton Sun, New York. "We infuse our formulas with antioxidants, high-grade moisturizers and natural and organic ingredients like walnut oil, jojoba oil and aloe vera."
For 2013, according to Piazzolia, "We're very excited to be formulating a 100% natural broad spectrum SPF 30+ sunscreen lotion for babies and small children. The ingredient list is simply fantastic and it's going to be a great addition to our line; as well as a great companion to our SPF 70 Continuous Mist for Kids."
A Bright Future
The future always holds promise of new ingredients, compounds and formulations for skin protection, especially as we learn more about the effects of other types of solar energy on the skin, noted Dr. Few of The Few Institute.
Industry insiders agree that innovation is going to propel the sun care segment.
"Future trends in the sun care industry consist of easier and more functional products. As mentioned before, sticks and sprays will become more popular when applying sunscreen," said Dr. Sobel. "A lot of cosmetic products are also coming out that are formulated with SPF so you can protect your lips and hair from harmful rays. Consumers often neglect protecting themselves against the sun, so making it easy and multifunctional is definitely key and we will be seeing products that do just that in the near future."
Multifunctional products tailored to meet the specific needs of individuals' skin; i.e. baby/kids, moisturizing, durability, will become the new norm in sun care, as consumers continue demanding their dollars keep working harder and harder for them, added Pietrini of Energizer.
"We also expect the sun care category to make its way into the hands of a higher percentage of shoppers during the next 5-10 years, as consumers learn about the dangers of skin cancer and sun burn," he told HAPPI.
Cole of J&J concurred that application is key to effective sun care, now and in the years to come.
"The most important element of sun protection is to make sure you use sunscreens consistently. A key driver of compliance is the comfort of using the sunscreen products, whether it is a water-resistant product for use at the beach or outdoor activities, or a daily moisturizer with UV protection," he noted. "Sunscreens are being formulated more and more to have light and thy aesthetic properties, and that adhere well to the skin without being tacky or heavy. High durability in harsh environments is a key trend for protection-minded consumers."
According to Dr. Agin of Coppertone, sun care will continue to be an ever-evolving industry. She said, "As we look ahead, ease-of-use, variety and personalization will be top of mind for future sun care innovations."
Melissa Meisel * Associate Editor
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|Title Annotation:||SUN CARE|
|Publication:||Household & Personal Products Industry|
|Date:||Mar 1, 2013|
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