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Full blush.

Capes are an easy and fashionable way to transition between seasons. This cape design includes mock welt openings and a full lining, making it a perfect accessory for blustery spring days.

SUPPLIES

* Basic cape pattern with collar & button front (such as Butterick 5819)

* 2 yards of medium weight woven exterior fabric

* 2 1/2 yards of lining fabric

* 1 yard of interfacing

* 1 1/8" covered button

* All-purpose thread

PREPARE

Cut out the pattern pieces.

If using the featured Butterick pattern, shorten the back pattern piece for option C by 6" (1). Shorten the front pattern piece from option C to equal the same new length of the back piece. Square the lower front corner (2).

Split the lengthened front panel into two sections from the neck to the hem to create an opening for hands to move through, making movement in the cape more practical. Once split, add 5/8" seam allowances along both the front and side-front pieces. On the side-front panel, draw a 2"x6 1/2" welt extension roughly two-thirds of the way down from the neckline seam. Add 5/8" seam allowances to three welt sides (3).

Draft a facing piece for the welt, adding 5/8" to the width to allow for seam allowances.

To replicate the square points of the collar featured in option A, tape tissue paper behind collar C. Place the collar-C piece over the collar-A piece, matching the center back, and then trace the square shape of the points onto the tissue extension.

To create a more substantial center front, extend the center-front edge 2 3/4" to create a self-facing. This allows for a facing (plus seam allowance) where the lining attaches to the cape. Fold the facing along the front edge 1" beyond the center-front line, and then trim the facing to match the neckline (4).

Draft a pattern piece for the front interfacing measuring 2 3/4" wide by the full length and shape of the front panel.

CONSTRUCT

Use 5/8" seam allowances unless otherwise noted.

Cut out the pattern pieces for the exterior, lining (back, adjusted front and side-front panels) and interfacing (collar, front facing and welt facing).

Assemble the welt openings. Fuse the interfacing to the welt wrong side on the side-front pieces. Place the right side of each welt facing onto the welt right side, and then stitch the sides and lower edge. Trim and grade the seam allowances. Clip to the stitching line where the welt meets the seamline. Turn the facings to the garment wrong side. Push out the corners, and then press flat. Topstitch only the welt front edge, 3/8" from the edge.

Join the side front and front pieces, stitching from neck to welt and then from the welt lower edge to the hemline. This creates the opening for hands. Press open the seams and press the welt toward the center front.

Stitch the center-back seam; press open the seams. Stitch the shoulder seams to join the front to the back; press open the seams.

Pin the welt in place on the front panel. Topstitch the welt side edges up to the existing topstitching (5).

Prepare the lining. Stitch the side-front pieces to the front pieces, leaving the welt section free.

Stitch the center-back seam and the shoulder seams. Press open each seam.

Fuse the interfacing to the center-front facing wrong side. Fold the facing along the front-edge line and pin in place with right sides together. At the neckline upper edge, stitch from the fold toward the center-front line to square the corner (6).

Clip to the stitching line, and then turn right side out. Push out the corner and press flat (7).

Attach the lining to the cape by stitching the lining to the front facings with right sides together. Press the seams toward the lining.

With right sides together, match the hemlines and seam points (back, side front and shoulder) of the lining to the cape exterior. Make sure the front facing is folded at the front-edge line, not the center-front line. Pin the layers together, and then stitch.

Trim the seam allowances and turn the garment right side out. Press the lining flat so it doesn't show on the cape exterior. If desired, understitch the lining in place. Hand stitch the lining to the welt openings (8).

Hand or machine baste the lining to the cape at the neckline V?" from the neckline edge.

Fuse the interfacing to the undercollar wrong sides. Join the undercollar pieces at the back seam. Press open the seams; trim.

Repeat to stitch the upper collar. With right sides together, stitch the upper collar to the undercollar, leaving the neckline edges free. Trim and grade the seam allowances. Turn the collar right side out. Push out the corners; press. If desired, understitch the collar lower edge.

Attach the collar to the cape. To ensure the collar will roll properly, trim 1/8" from the undercollar raw edge. Fold the lower edge toward the undercollar; pin. With right sides together, pin the upper collar to the cape; stitch. Press the seam allowance toward and into the collar. Trim the seam allowance.

To finish the collar, fold the undercollar raw edge 5/8" toward the wrong side; align it with the stitching line.

Pin, and then hand stitch the undercollar to the cape. Topstitch the collar 3/8" from the edge.

To create the closure, stitch the upper buttonhole per the pattern guidesheet. Hand stitch the button in place along the adjacent center-front line.
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Title Annotation:ways to make a cape
Author:Reynolds, Linda
Publication:Sew News
Article Type:Instructions
Date:Feb 1, 2016
Words:923
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