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Fresh start eye treatment developed by Noveon.

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Formulary Editor


70 Hilltop Rd. Ramsey, NJ 07446 USA
Fresh Start Eye Treatment (LH)

INGREDIENTS:                                    % WT.

Phase A
Deionized water 74.20                           74.20
Carbopol Ultrez 10 polymer (Noveon)              0.35
Glycerin                                         3.00
Glucam E-20 humectant (Noveon)                   1.50
  (Methyl gluceth-20)
Protachem NA-2 (Protameen)                       0.05
  (Disodium EDTA)
Hydramol PGPL ester                              0.75
(PEG/PPG-8/3 laurate)

Phase B
Schercemol DISM ester (Noveon)                   7.25
(Diisostearyl malate)
Schercemol DISD ester (Noveon)                   1.75
  (Diisotearyl dimer dilinoleate)
Promulgen D emulsifier (Noveon)                  2.50
  (Cetearyl alcohol (and) ceteareth-20)
Glucamate SSE-20 emulsifier (Noveon)             0.80
  (PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate)
Vitamin E Acetate                                0.50
  (Essential Ingredients, Protameen)
  (Tocopherl acetate)
Lyco-Sol (Gattefosse)                            2.00
  (Solanum lycopersicum (tomato) fruit/
  leaf/stem extract (and) prunus
  (armeniaca (apricot) kernel oil

Phase C
Sodium hydroxide (18%)                           0.80

Phase D
Depigmentation Factor Bioflavanoids              2.00
  (Citrus medica limonum (lemon)
  peel extract, lecithin, glycerin, alcohol,
Herbasol extract hibiscus (Sudanese tea)         2.00
  (Hibiscus sabdariffa flower extract,
  propylene glycol, water)

Phase E
Phenonip (Clariant)                              0.40
  (Phenoxyethanol, methyl-, propyl-, butyl-,
  ethyl- (and) isobutylparaben)
Age Delay #148162 (Symrise)                      0.15

Phase A: Sprinkle Carbopol Ultrez 10 Polymer
on the surface of deionized water. Once polymer
has wetted, begin gentle agitation. Add
ingredients 3-6 to phase A in order with mixing.
Mix until uniform. Heat to about 65-70 [degrees]C.
Phase B: In a separate mixing vessel, add
Phase B ingredients. Heat to about 65-70 [degrees]C
and mix until uniform. When phase A and B are
at 65-70 [degrees]C, add phase B to phase A with
mixing. Mix until uniform. While batch is still hot
(65-70 [degrees]C), add sodium hydroxide with mixing.
Mix batch for 10-15 minutes or until uniform.
Begin cooling batch to below 40 [degrees]C. When
batch has cooled to <40 [degrees]C, add phase D
ingredients in the order to batch with mixing. Mix
until uniform. Add phase E ingredients one at a
time to main batch. Mix until uniform.


Appearance:                         Off white lotion
pH:                                        6.90-7.05
Viscosity (mPas) **                    13,000-17,000
Stability:            Passed 6 weeks @ 50 [degrees]C,
                                5 cycles freeze/thaw

** Brookfield RVT @ 20rpm, 25 [degrees]C, #6 spindle,
measured after 24 hours.

COMMENTS: The appearance of fine lines,
wrinkles, sagging and age spots are all targets
of this eye treatment based on tomatoes,
lemons and hibiscus flowers. This formulation
features an initial refreshing skinfeel suitable
for delicate areas that evolves into a rich,
substantive afterfeel with targeted delivery.
Carbopol Ultrez 10 polymer stabilizes the
emulsion and provides the light, fresh texture
during initial application, while the combination
of Schercemol DISM and DISD Ester provide
the cushiony, persistent afterfeel and contribute
to anti-migration properties.

Green Fluid Day Cream 7065B

INGREDIENTS:                                       % WT.

Phase A
Montanov 202 (Seppic)                               3.00
  (Arachidyl alcohol and behenyl
  alcohol and arachidylglucoside)
Montanov 14 (SEPPIC)                                1.50
(Myristyl alcohol and myristylglucoside)
Behenyl behenate (Stearineries Dubois)              2.00
Butyrospermum parkii (organic)(Sophim)              1.50
Squalane                                            3.00
Simmondsia chinensis                                3.00
  (jojoba) seed oil (organic)
Caprylic/Capric triglyceride                        3.00
Isopropyl Isostearate (Stearinerie Dubois)          3.00
Tocopherol (Dr. Straetmans)                         0.10

Phase B
Water                                          up to 100
Water and Hordeum vulgare extract                  11.00
  (organic) (Soniam)
Xanthan gum                                         0.60
Lipacide C8G (Seppic)                               1.00
  (Capryloyl glycine)
Water                                           up to 30
Sodium hydroxide up to                            pH 5.5
  (48% aqueous solution)
Aquaxyl (Seppic)                                    3.00
  (Xylitylglucoside and anhydroxylitol
  and xylitol)
Sorbic acid                                          -30
Sodium hydroxide                              up to pH 5


Weigh phase A ingredients in a vessel and heat
to 85 [degrees]C. Weigh the water in a separate vessel
and heat to 80 [degrees]C. Sprinkle the xanthan gum into
the water while stirring with a stirrer equipped
with a serrated disk head. Prepare phase C by
solubilizing Lipacide C8G in hot water (80 [degrees]C)
with sodium hydroxide. When the gel is homogeneous,
add phase C into phase B and mix
well. Then add phase (B+C) into phase A and
homogenize with a rotor stator at 4000rpm for 4
minutes. When the cream is smooth, start cooling
down and mix gently. At 40 [degrees]C, add the
remaining ingredients and mix well.


Appearance: White fluid emulsion
pH: 5.3

Viscosity after 1 month at RT:
12,200 mPa.s Brookfield LV3 v 6 rpm

Stability : > 1 month at RT and 45[degrees]C

EVALUATION: This formula passed the challenge
test performed according to the French
Standard European Pharmacopea.

Developed in accordance with Ecocert
Standard. Only 1% of Lipacide C8G combined
with 0.30% of sorbic acid was enough to provide
a good anti-microbial efficacy to the formula.

Warning Lip Gloss No. 1385

INGREDIENTS:                              % WT.

Phase A
Panalane H-300E (Lipo Chemicals, Inc.)    58.00
  (Hydrogenated polyisobutene)
Liponate TDTM (Lipo Chemicals, Inc.)      35.00
  (Tridecyl trimellitate)

Phase B
Hotact VBE (Lipo (Takasago)                0.25
  (Vanillyl butyl ether)
Liponate (Lipo Chemicals, Inc.)            6.55
  (PEG-4 diheptanoate)
Propylparaben (Ruger Chemical)             0.20


Mix phase A at room temperature. Mix phase B
ingredients and heat to 65[degrees]C. Mix until clear
and uniform. Add phase B to phase A with moderate
speed mixing. Pour into suitable containers.


pH:          NA
Viscosity:   LVT 3@12 rpm: 6290 cps [+ or -] 10%
Stability:   30 days at 50 [degrees]C

Teens' Rich Smooth Lotion for Dry Skin

INGREDIENTS:                                       % WT.

Phase A
ABIL Care 85                                         2.0
  (Bis-PEG/PPG-16/16 PEG/PPG16/16
  dimethicone; caprylic/capric triglyceride)
Tegosoft DEC                                         4.0
  (Diethylhexyl carbonate)
Tegosoft CT                                          4.0
  (Caprylic/capric triglyceride)
Tegosoft OP                                          4.9
  (Ethylhexyl palmitate)
Bisabolol                                            0.1
Keltrol F (Lubrizol)                                 0.2
  (Xanthan gum)
Tego Carbomer 341 ER                                 0.3
  (Acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer)

Phase B
Glycerin                                             3.0
Tego SMO 80 V                                        0.2
  (Polysorbate 80)
Panthenol                                            0.5
Water                                               75.2

Phase C
NaOH, 10%                                            0.6

Phase D
Tego Smooth Complex                                  5.0
  (Betaine; urea; potassium lactate; poly-
  glutamic acid; hydrolyzed sclerotium gum)
Preservative, Parfum                                q.s.


Add phase A to phase B with stirring.
Homogenize. Add phase C and D and stir well.

Important: If phase A has to be charged into the
vessel first, phase B must be added without

Marzipan Souffle

INGREDIENTS:                               % WT.

Phase A
Lexgard O (Inolex Chemical Co.)             1.00
  (Capryl glycol)
Dow Corning 2502 cosmetic fluid            10.00
  (Cetyl dimethicone)
Dow Corning 9701 cosmetic powder            2.50
  (Dimethiconelvinyl dimethicone
Dow Corning VM-2270 aerogel                  0.5
fine particles
  (Silica silylate)
Ronasphere LDP (Merck KGaA)                  2.5
  (Silica (and) CI 77891 (and) CI 77491)

Phase B
Dow Corning 9045 silicone elastomer         83.5
  blend (Cyclopentasiloxane (and)
  dimethicone crosspolymer)


Combine phase A ingredients. Add phase B to
phase A with mixing. Mix until uniform.
(formulation developed by S. Black.)

COMMENTS: This makeup base offers a unique
texture and sebum control.

Natural Acne Cleaner

INGREDIENTS:                             % WT.

Phase A
Sodium lauroyl glutamate                  10.0
Lauramidopropyl betaine (30%)             20.0
Cocamide MEA                               7.0
Glycol stearate                            4.0
Cetyl alcohol                              1.0
Farmal HFS 2656                            7.0
  (Hydrolyzed Corn Starch)
Salicylic Acid                             2.0
Water, fragrance, preservative   q.s. to 100.0


Add the first five components to water and heat
to 70 [degrees]C. Blend until all components are melted
and dispersed. Cool to 60 [degrees]C and add salicylic
acid. Add Farmal HFS 2656 at 50 [degrees]C. Add fragrance,
preservative at 35 [degrees]C. Cool and fill.

Mild Hair Cleansing & Caring Shampoo

INGREDIENTS:                                  % WT.

Phase A
Water, demin                                   56.9
Jaguar C 162 (Rhodia)                           0.1
  (Hydroxypropylguar hydrorxypropyl-
  trimonium chloride)
Keltrol CG-SFT (SPCI)                           1.0
  (Xanthan gum)

Phase B
Plantacare 2000 UP                             30.0
  (Decyl glucoside)
Plantacare 1200 UP                              6.0
Lamesoft PO 65                                  3.0
  (Coco-glucoside (and) glyceryl oleate)
Cetiol LDO                                      0.5
  (Dicaprylyl ether (and) laurl alcohol)
Gluadin WQ                                      2.0
  (Laurdimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed
  wheat protein)
Sodium Benzoate                                 0.5
Citric acid (50%)
pH-value (as is):                               5.0%
Viscosity (Brookfield RVT, 23 [degrees]C,   5,200 mPas
spindle 4, 10 rpm):


Disperse Keltrol CG-SFT in water at room temperature
while stirring. Add phase B under mixing until it is
homogeneously dissolved. Then add fragrance,
preservative and adjust pH value
COPYRIGHT 2008 Rodman Publishing
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Copyright 2008 Gale, Cengage Learning. All rights reserved.

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Title Annotation:Formulary
Publication:Household & Personal Products Industry
Date:Aug 1, 2008
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