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For summer sipping....

Tall, cool glasses of refreshing beverages are a summer signature. Many of the cooling liquids can do duty in desserts as well. Here we explore two adult coolers, a playful collection of wines aromatic with the ripening array of summer fruits, and a fruit and wine dessert that multiplies easily.

Chilled, slightly sweet to sweet wines are suited to summer meals if the sweetness is balanced by acid to counteract any cloying blandness. A listing of wines for summer meals follows; all are good cool or with ice.

You can pour many of these wines over fruit (following). Serve the dessert as made, nest the serving container steadily in ice in a larger bowl to keep cool longer, or let the dessert sit for several hours to blend flavors.

Sunrise

1/2 cup orange juice 1/3 cup lemon-flavor vodka About 1 tablespoon lime juice Ice cubes Lime wedges

In a 10- to 12-ounce glass, combine orange juice and vodka. Add lime juice to taste. Add ice and lime wedges. Makes 1 serving.

Per serving: 229 cal.; 0.9 g protein; 0.1 g fat; 14 g carbo.; 4.4 mg sodium; 0 mg chol.

Chili Scotch

1-1/2 cups sparkling water 1/2 cup Scotch or whiskey Chipotle water (recipe follows) Ice Thin lemon slices Fresh small red chilies

In 2 glasses, each 12 ounces, combine sparkling water and Scotch equally. Add chipotle water to taste. Add ice; garnish with lemon and red chili on a swizzle stick. Serves 2.

Per serving: 139 cal.; 0 g protein; 0 g fat; 0.1 g carbo.; 0.6 mg sodium; 0 mg chol.

Chipotle water. Rinse 2 dried chipotle chilies. In a 1- to 1-1/2-quart pan, combine chilies and 1 cup water. Cover and simmer for 15 minutes. Let cool. Remove chilies; save for other uses. Use water, or cover and chill up to a day. Makes about 1/3 cup, enough for 2 or 3 servings.

WINES FOR LAZY SIPPING

Be sure to read labels carefully; many of these wines have both dry and sweet (often late-harvest) versions, frequently by the same maker.

You can detect sweetness in wines with 0.5 to 1 percent residual sugar (of comparable sweetness, 0.5[degrees] to 1[degrees] brix, 5 to 10 grams sugar per liter), but if residual sugar is 2 percent or more, many find the wines a bit sweet for meals, though pleasing with dessert. Others enjoy wines that are this sweet or sweeter with foods; it's a matter of taste. Our listings, when applicable, range from driest to sweetest.

Chenin Blanc

The gentle flavor of this wine makes it easy to like and serve with almost any light summer foods.

Chappellet, Napa Valley (touched by wood aging); Martin Brothers, Paso Robles; Folie a Deux, Napa Valley; Dry Creek, California; Hacienda, Clarksburg; Grand Cru, Clarksburg; Simi, Mendocino; Guenoc, Lake County; Hogue, Washington.

Johannisberg Riesling

The best of these wines (also called White Riesling or just Riesling) have an almost floral perfume. Their range of sweetness is considerable. Serve with foods that have natural sweetness, including cold cracked crab.

Trefethen, Napa Valley; Firestone, Santa Ynez Valley Dry; Freemark Abbey, Napa Valley; Smith-Madrone, Napa Valley; Jekel, Arroyo Seco/Monterey; Greenwood Ridge, Anderson Valley; Hogue, Washington.

Gewurztraminer

Of all white wine types that regularly find their way to dinner tables, this is the most aromatic. Mild Gewurztraminers remind many of carnations. Rich examples suggest litchis. The most intense are, as their name promises in German, outright spicy.

All call for foods of some character: smoked chicken or turkey, barbecued pork, smoked or spiced sausages, and spicy Asian cuisines like Thai.

Bouchaine, Carneros; Davis Bynum, Russian River; Gundlach-Bundschu, Sonoma Valley; Thomas Fogarty, Monterey (Ventana Vineyard); Navarro, Anderson Valley; Handley, Anderson Valley; Husch, Anderson Valley; De Loach, Russian River Valley; Buena Vista, Carneros; Grand Cru, Alexander Valley.

White Zinfandel and Kin

Black grapes can be used to make white or pale pink wines, Zinfandel being the most famous. The best White Zinfandels capture the variety's blackberry-like flavors to perfection. They, and similar roses, are extremely versatile with foods. Styles range from light, crisp, and nearly dry to almost dessert-sweet.

William Wheeler, Sonoma County; De Loach Vineyards, Russian River Valley; Grand Cru, California; Seghesio, Sonoma County; J. Pedroncelli, Sonoma County; Sutter Home, California; Gallo White Grenache, California.

Gamay or Gamay Beaujolais

A handful of reds benefit from chilling. Nearly all are based on Napa Gamay or Gamay Beaujolais, or a blend of the two.

Charles F. Shaw Napa Valley Gamay Beaujolais; Fetzer Mendocino Gamay; J. Lohr Monterey Gamay; Louis M. Martini North Coast Gamay Beaujolais; Preston Dry Creek Valley Gamay.

Fruit and Wine Splashes

1 cup (5 to 6 oz.) bite-size pieces fruit (choices follow)

1 bottle (750 ml.) wine (choices follow)

Ice cubes

In a large bowl, combine fruit and wine. Serve or let stand up to 3 hours. Ladle into glasses. Add ice to cool. If desired, offer spoons to eat fruit. Makes 6 to 8 servings.

Per serving with peaches and white wine: 73 cal.; 0.2 g protein; 0 g fat; 3.1 g carbo.; 4.7 mg sodium; 0 mg chol.

Fruit: whole blueberries, blackberries, boysenberries, loganberries, olallieberries, raspberries, grapes; sliced firm-ripe nectarines; sliced strawberries; peeled, sliced firm-ripe peaches; sliced firm-ripe plums.

Wine: Gamay Beaujolais; Chenin Blanc; Gewurztraminer; Johannisberg Riesling; Muscat wines such as Benzinger Muscat Canelli, Robert Mondavi Moscato Canelli, Quady Orange Muscat, sparkling Ballatore; White Zinfandel.
COPYRIGHT 1992 Sunset Publishing Corp.
No portion of this article can be reproduced without the express written permission from the copyright holder.
Copyright 1992 Gale, Cengage Learning. All rights reserved.

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Title Annotation:Summer Entertaining; recipes; summer beverages
Author:Anusasananan, Linda Lau; Thompson, Bob
Publication:Sunset
Date:Jun 1, 1992
Words:909
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