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Food & Wine: Celebrity square meals.

Red Cube Bar And Grill

With Martine McCutcheon on the committee and co-owned by Mark Fuller and Jimmy Lahoud (the owners of celeb hangout Sugar Reef), Red Cube has all the signs of being the latest place to see and be seen in.

Located off Leicester Square where Little Havana used to stand, this new bar and grill has just had a pounds 1.5 million spruce-up. There are three bars in the basement with their own cosy VIP rooms. Each are themed - the Zebra Room, Leather Room and Bedouin Room - but the bar is members-only. The upstairs restaurant seats 220, and is open from 5.30 pm until last orders at 1.30am.

I found Red Cube's full menu impressive, despite the limited choice and there being little to tempt vegetarians. The food is described, confusingly, as "colonial" and comprises pasta, roasts, grills and fish.

The most expensive starter was escalope of foie gras at pounds 12 but otherwise they were all under pounds 8. I went for the deep-fried ravioli of goats' cheese with tomato, shallot and basil. It was basically one giant crispy shell with what appeared to be an entire goats' cheese in the middle, but it was delicious.

My companions shared an impressive plateau of fruits de mer. Their only moan was the fact that there were only two oysters, too many mussels, and the langoustines were a bit too fiddily for a starter.

For the main course I had the rump of lamb nicoise which was beautifully tender and a perfect-size serving, considering I had already stuffed myself on the starter, drinks and three bread rolls.

The others had pigs' trotters (brave man), prime fillet burger and aromatic roast chicken which all got glowing reports.

Considering the earlier gusto in which I had greeted my food, I had to turn down dessert but the zabaglione and chocolate tart looked fantastic. For cigar aficionados, there is an impressive list as well as an extensive choice of wine.

If Red Cube takes off as well as Sugar Reef, expect to see the likes of the Beckhams, Geri Halliwell and George Michael delving into the lobster risotto or a juicy rump steak. But whatever you do, just don't choke on your cod and chorizo.

THE A LIST FACT FILE

RED CUBE 1 Leicester Place, Leicester Square, W1 (020 7287 0101).

Hours: Monday-Saturday, 5.30pm-3am. Last sitting 12.45am.

High Point: Goats' cheese tart.

Low Point: No access to the VIP bar unless you are a member.
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Article Details
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Title Annotation:Features
Author:Callan, Jessica
Publication:The Mirror (London, England)
Date:Oct 27, 2000
Words:419
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