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Fabric mixer: Velvet-capped peplum.

THE BACKGROUND

I don't jump on trends, necessarily, but I WILL look for every excuse to buy new fabric. It took me a while to warm up to the velvet trend, but I think I'm there, with two caveats: I don't want to swim in it and it can't be shiny. Given my current knit obsession, stretch velvet seemed like a good place to start. Rather than make a whole garment from the stuff, I decided to introduce it at the sleeve. Any raglan sleeve pattern would work for this technique, but if you don't have one on-hand, read on for instructions on turning a c wide-strap tank pattern into a raglan sleeve pattern.

Skill Level: Easy

SUPPLIES

* Tank top pattern with wide straps (such as Made by Rae's Isla Pattern)

* Mediumweight knit fabric (amount according to the pattern envelope)

* 1/4 yard of stretch velvet

* Pattern tracing paper

PREPARE

Trace the bodice front and back pattern pieces onto pattern paper. Cut out the pattern pieces.

Overlap the shoulder seam by 5/8" to account for the seam allowance.

Fold the pattern pieces together with wrong sides facing and the center front edges aligned (1). Working from the shoulder seam on the bodice front, along the inner neckline edge, measure and mark 2" from the seam. On the outer edge along the armhole, measure and mark 3" down from the shoulder seam. Connect the two marks. Repeat on the bodice back.

Cut the pattern piece apart at the diagonal lines to create three pattern pieces: the bodice front, bodice back and raglan insert (2).

Using pattern paper, add a 5/8" seam allowance to each new cut edge. Clearly mark the front and back of the new raglan pattern piece.

Cut the bodice front and back (and any other pattern pieces) from the knit fabric and cut the raglan insert from stretch velvet.

If your pattern includes a neckband, check the length against the new neckline, as the measurement might have shifted with the addition of the raglan inserts. Measure the new neckline length and multiply it by 85% to 90%, depending on the amount of stretch in the knit fabric; record. Multiply the seam allowance by two and add it to the measurement for the neckband length. Cut a neckband piece that measures 2" wide by this measurement.

CONSTRUCT

Stitch the bodice front to the raglan inserts with right sides together. Then stitch the raglan inserts to the bodice back and continue assembly according to the pattern guidesheet.

BY AMANDA CARESTIO

TIP: If possible, use knit fabric that closely matches the amount of stretch in the stretch velvet.

MIX IT UP

Raglan sleeves are my favorite pick for this technique but there are other ways to bring touches of velvet into your garments: contrasting velvet faux collar and/or cuffs; cowl neck; color or texture blocking; velvet neckband or armband; a cardigan, kimono or wrap dress band and tie; velvet or velvet-trimmed shirt pocket; drop sleeves; stretch velvet lining and more. When mixing textures, I'm fond of working tone-on-tone. Mix prints with velvet and you've got even more design options.

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Article Details
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Author:Carestio, Amanda
Publication:Sew News
Article Type:Instructions
Date:Apr 1, 2017
Words:521
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