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Ethnic Hair Care NEW INGREDIENTS.

Here is a list of new hair care ingredients introduced by suppliers in the past 12 months. For more information about the products listed here, contact the supplier directly at the numbers provided.

* BASF Mt. Olive, NJ

Tel: (800) 880-5768 (samples)

Fax: (318) 861-8031

Website: www.cosmetic.basf.com

E-mail: cosmetics@basf.com

Luviquat Care

INCI Name: polyquaternium 44

Use Levels: 0.2-2% (solids)

Applications: conditioning shampoos, rinse-off and leave-on conditioners, body washes, liquid soaps

Comments: Luviquat Care was specifically developed as a conditioning polymer for shampoos. Luviquat Care finds application in a variety of hair care and cleansing formulations (rinse-off and leave-on) including 2-in-1 shampoos, body washes and liquid soaps. This cationic polymer provides excellent conditioning skin action and enhanced hair combing. Luviquat Care has also been shown to reduce skin irritation caused by surfactants and increase the moisturization on the skin, as measured by the corneo method.

Phytantriol

INCI Name: phytantriol

Use Levels: 0.05-0.2% (leave-on conditioner, mousses, sprays, tonics, gels); 0.1-0.5% (rinse-off shampoos, conditioners)

Applications: shampoos, conditioners, mousses, sprays, tonics, gels

Comments: Improves the penetration of high performance active ingredients such as panthenol and vitamin E. Acts as a conditioner and protects hair against mechanical damage. Improves moisture content to the hair and enhances feel, softness, volume/body. Gives gloss and smoothness to damaged, dull hair. Helps to prevent split-ends on hair (together with panthenol).

D, L Panthenol 50W

INCI Name: panthenol

Use Levels: 0.05-0.2% (leave-on conditioner, mousses, sprays, tonics, gels); 0.1-0.5% (rinse-off shampoos, conditioners)

Applications: shampoos, conditioners, mousses, sprays, tonics, gels

Comments: Acts as a long lasting moisturizer conditioner and protects hair against damage. Thickens hair to enhance feel, softness, volume, and body. Improves luster and shine particularly in damaged or dull hair. Helps to prevent split-ends on hair (together with phytantriol).

* BioChemicals International, Inc. Satellite Beach, FL

Tel: (321) 773-7457

Fax: (321) 777-4235

Website: www.biochemica.com

Avocado Buffer--Ultra Refined

INCI name: persea gratissima

Use levels: lotions and creams (3-5%); balms (5-100%); bar soaps (3-6%); conditioners (2-5%)

Applications: lotions, creams, balms, bar soaps, conditioners

Comments: Avocado Butter is obtained from the fruit of the avocado tree (persea gratissima) which grows in subtropical regions of the world. The butter is created from the avocado fruit oil through a unique hydrogenation process which yields a soft, greenish butter with mild odor and excellent melting properties which is suitable for skin care. May be used in all types of soap and toiletries to improve moisturization and soften rough, dry skin.

Aloe Butter

INCI name: cocos nucifera oil (and) aloe barbandensis leaf extract

Use levels: lotions and creams (3-5%); balms (5-100%); bar soaps (3-6%); conditioners (2-5%)

Applications: lotions, soaps, skin creams, lip balms, conditioners

Comments: Aloe Butter is a proprietary cosmetic ingredient developed exclusively by BioChemicals International for use in cosmetics and toiletries. Aloe Butter is an extraction of aloe barbadensis (aloe vera) using a coconut fraction to produce a soft-solid which melts on contact with the skin. It is suited for a variety of skin care applications (lotions, soaps, skin creams and lip balms) to enhance moisturization with the properties of aloe.

Emu Oil--Ultra Refined

INCI name: emu oil Use levels: lotions and creams (210%); bar soaps (3-6%); shampoos and conditioners (3-20%)

Applications: skin care, cosmetics, soaps, hair conditioners, shampoos

Comments: Emu Oil--Ultra Refined is an incredible lipid replenishing ingredient which may be used in all types of skin care, cosmetics, soaps and hair conditioners. Emu Oil is legendary in Australia for its healing abilities for dry, irritated skin and scalp. Its unique penetrating properties make it an excellent carrier vehicle for other ingredients to assist their dermal penetration. Helps to make bar soaps and shampoos milder so they are less drying.

* Caribbean Aloe Vera Ramsey, NJ

Tel: (201) 934-7474

Fax: (201) 934-8291

Assahi Frulix

INCI name: euterpe oleraceae fruit extract

Use levels: 1-5%

Applications: shampoos, conditioners, nourishing creams and lotions, tonifying lotions, massage creams, toiletry soaps

Comments: Processed by specially developed biotechnological techniques from Amazonian palm trees containing all natural active components.

Acerola Frulix

INCI name: malphigia glabra fruit extract

Use levels: 1-10%

Applications: shampoos, conditioners, nourishing creams and lotions, night/massage creams, anti-aging products

Comments: Processed by specially developed biotechnological techniques from Barbados cherry containing all natural active components.

* Cognis-Care Chemicals Dusseldorf, Germany

Tel: 011 (49) 211-7940-0

Fax: 011 (49) 211-798-4008

Website: www.cognis.de

E-mail: care.chemicals@cognis.de

Cetiol CC

INCI name: dicaprylyl carbonate

Use levels: 3-10%

Applications: emollient, dry sensory

Comments: Light cosmetic and pharmaceutical emulsions.

* Croda Inc. Parsippany, NJ

Tel: (973) 644-4900

Fax: (973) 644-9222

Website: www.croda.com E-mail: marketing@croda.com

Incroquat Behenyl 18-MEA

INCI name: behentrimonium methosulfate (and) quaternium-33 (and) cetyl alcohol

Use levels: 1-5%

Applications: ethnic maintenance products, pre- and post-relaxer treatments, shampoos, conditioners

Comments: Fatty quat based on primary lipid of hair surface (18-methyl eicosanoic acid). Hair that is relaxed or otherwise chemically treated often loses its content of 18MEA. Product is intended to replenish lipid surface of hair, makes it more hydrophobic. Repairs surface damage, protects hair from environmental insults. Improves wet/dry combing. Adds lubricity/shine. Performance data available. Incroquat Behenyl TMC-5OB

INCI name: behentrimonium chloride (and) butylene glycol

Use levels: 1-8%

Applications: conditioners

Comments: More environmentally-friendly version of chloride quat. No volatile solvents, safer/easier handling, non-hazardous. Highest possible activity as pastille.

Argowax LFA Distilled

INCI name: lanolin acid

Use levels: 1-10%

Applications: relaxers, conditioners

Comments: W/o emulsifier, emollient, dispersant, wetting agent.

* Goldschmidt AG Hopewell, VA

Tel: (804) 541-8658

Fax: (804) 541-2783

Website: www.goldschnmidtsurfactants.com

E-mail: surfactants@de.goldschmidt.com

Abil Soft AF 100

INCI name: methoxy PEG/PPG-7/3 aminopropyl dimethicone

Use levels: 0.3-4% conditioners; 0.12% shampoos/skin cleansing preparations; 0.2-1% skin care emulsions

Applications: conditioners, emulsions, shampoos, skin cleansers

Comments: Abil Soft AF 100 is a silicone-based conditioning agent for improved hair body and volume. It improves the substantivity of skin care emulsions. Abil Soft AF 100 is liquid and easy to handle. During preparation, the self-emulsifying property forms a fine dispersed emulsion in water. Abil Soft AF 100 contains hydrophilic groups, making it more compatible with aqueous systems when compared to amodimethicone. Since Abil Soft AF 100 is easy to solubilize with surfactants, it can be used in clear shampoo or shower bath formulations.

Varisoft Clear

INCI name: palmitamidopropyltrimonium chloride (and) PPG-3 myristyl ether (and) trimethyl pentanol hydroxyethyl ether

Use levels: 3-10%

Applications: clear rinse or leave-in conditioners, detangling sprays

Comments: Varisoft Clear is a composition used in the formulation of effective clear hair conditioners and rinses. It has excellent wet and dry combability. Varisoft Clear provides controlled softening for longer lasting hairstyles, is cold processable, easy to handle and is a concentrated, low viscosity liquid.

Varisoft BT 85

INCI name: behentrimonium chloride

Use levels: 1-10%

Applications: conditioning hair rinses, conditioning shampoos, leave-in conditioners, body/hand creams/lotions

Comments: Varisoft BT 85 is a quaternary ammonium compound used as a strong hair conditioning agent. Varisoft BT 85 has strong conditioning properties, improves wet and dry combability and makes hair soft and silky. It is easy to handle and vegetable-based.

* Hydromer, Inc. Branchburg, NJ

Tel: (908) 526-2828

Fax: (908) 526-3633

Aquamere S-Series

INCI name: PVP (and) dimethylconylacrylate (and) polycarbamyl (and) polyglycol ester

Use levels: 5-20%

Applications: shampoo, conditioner, gel

Aquamere C-Series

INCI name: PVP (and) diethyaminoethylmetacrylate (and) polycarbamyl (and) polyglycol ester

Use levels: 5-20%

Applications: hair conditioners, shampoos, hair color

Aquamere H-Series

INCI name: PVP (and) polycarbamyl (and) polyglycol ester

Use levels: 5-20%

Applications: hair spray

* IFT, Inc. Canton, GA

Tel: (770) 345-3079

Fax: (770) 345-3086

Website: www.IFTfragrances.com

E-mail: IFTsales@mindspring.com

Fragrances

Use levels: 0.1-3%

* International Specialty Products Wayne, NJ

Tel: (888) 471-3072

Fax: (973) 628-3305

Website: www.ispcorp.com

Gafquat 440

INCI name: polyquaternium 11

Use levels: 4-10% as is; 30% solids pourable solution

Applications: styling lotions, nonaerosol mousses, aerosol mousses

Comments: Provides detangling (wet), smooth feel (wet and dry), volume and style retention, natural look and feel with good shine, will make the `wet look' for men's styling or long hair.

Conditioneze NT-20

INCI name: polyquaternium 28

Use levels: 1-3% as is; 20% solids

Applications: conditioning and bodifying shampoos and rinse-out and leavein conditioners

Comments: No build-up; smooth feel, wet/dry (reduced diastron combing forces); cold processed clear shampoos; bodifies rinse-out conditioners, shampoo.

Styleze 2000

INCI name: VP (and) acrylates (and) lauryl methacrylate copolymer

Use levels: 0.5-1.0%

Applications: styling gels, lotions, styling waters, non-aerosol mousses, foam wraps, cream gels, glitter gels

Comments: Smooth feeling on dry hair; extremely humidity resistant; very low tack even in high humidity; non-flaking; provides synergistic viscosity building with Aculyn 28; nonraspy easy to comb through.

* Lipo Chemicals Paterson, NJ

Tel: (973) 345-8600

Fax: (973) 345-8365

Website: www.lipochemicals.com

Persea Butter

INCI name: hydrogenated vegetable oil

Applications: creams, lotions, sticksolids, hair care

Comments: Derived primarily from avocado oil, Persea Butter is a skin softening emollient that imparts an elegant feel to creams, lotions and sticksolids. This soft, solid butter is a result of controllect hydrogenation of avocado, coconut and palm oils. Persea Butter has low odor, no drag-on, a body temperature melting point, no tackiness and excellent slip.

Lipowax R2

INCI name: cetearyl alcohol (and) polysorbate 60 (and) oleth-10 (and) PEG-75 lanolin (and) PEG-150 stearate (and) steareth-20

Applications: hair relaxers, straighteners, conditioners, hand/body lotions, skin creams/lotions, body washes

Comments: A balanced blend of both lipophilic high molecular weight fatty alcohols and hydrophilic ethoxylated products, Lipowax R2 is a complete emulsifying system. Easily dispersible in water, Lipowax R2 forms elegant opaque emulsions of varied consistency depending on the concentration. Oil phases with HLB values of 7 to 11 may be emulsified without any supplemental emulsifiers. Lipowax R2 is compatible with anionic, nonionic and cationic surfactants.

Liponate NEB

INCI name: C12_15 alkyl benzoate

Applications: skin care creams, professional treatment products, hand/ body lotions, lipsticks, color cosmetics, sun care, hair conditioners and sprays Comments: Liponate NEB is an extraordinarily safe, stable emollient ester that offers formulators a diverse number of functions in a single molecule. The smooth, dry, non-tacky feel of Liponate NEB is further complemented by its unusual solvent properties and its ability to modify and improve the finish of formulations based on traditional hydrocarbons.

* Nalco Chemical

Naperville, IL

Tel: (724) 452-8075

Fax: (724) 452-8078

CG 4500

INCI name: acrylic acid (and) acrylamidomethyl propane sulfonic acid copolymer

Use levels: 1-3.5%

Applications: shampoos, hair treatment products

Comments: CG 4500 is a polymeric chelating agent the does an excellent job of binding calcium and magnesium.

* Natunola Health Inc. Nepean, Ontario, Canada

Tel: (613) 727-7337

Fax: (613) 727-3772

Website: www.natunola.com

E-mail: sales@natunola.com

Natunola CWAX 5611

INCI name: canola oil (and) glycine soja (soybean) oil (and) hydrogenated vegetable oil (and) zea mays (corn) starch (and) silica

Use levels: 5-30%

Applications: pomades, styling aids, lip balm, lipsticks, sunscreen sticks, creams and lotions

Comments: Natunola CWAX 5611 is a natural ingredient that provides a soft, smooth skin feel. It can be used as a viscosity-increasing agent for non-aqueous systems. Natunola CWAX 5611 can be used in a number of skin care, hair care and sun care applications.

Aloe Vera Oil Gel C1X

INCI name: canola oil (and) barbadensis leaf juice (and) tocopherol

Use levels: 1-10%

Applications: shampoos, conditioners, pomades, styling aids, hair straighteners

Comments: Can be used as an emollient, biological additive, film former and a viscosity controlling agent for an hydrous systems such as shampoos, conditioners, pomades, styling aids and natural hair straighteners. This is the first aloe vera gel that can be quantified in a vegetable oil and supported by high-resolution studies. Aloe Vera Oil Gel C 1X is a clear oil consisting of a gel-like structure and has outstanding thermostability and a high concentration of vitamin E.

* New Phase Technologies Piscataway, NJ

Tel: (732) 562-9797

Fax: (732) 562-9380

Performa V 103

INCI name: synthetic wax

Use levels: 1-5%

Applications: pomades, hair dressing Comments: For adding high-gloss sheen. Easily disperses in oil phase. Aids stability.

Performalene 400 INCI name: polyethylene synthetic wax

Use levels: 1-5%

Applications: hair dressing

Comments: Viscosity stabilizer. Easily disperses in oil phase.

INCI name: synthetic wax Use levels: 1-5%

Applications: pomades, hair dressing

Comments: Adds high-gloss sheen, aids stability, easily disperses in oil phase.

* Presperse Inc. Piscataway, NJ

Tel: (732) 819-8009

Fax: (732) 819-7175

Website: www.presperse.com

Olivem 300

INCI name: PEG-7 olivate

Use levels: 3-10%

Applications: shampoos, conditioners

Comments: Water-soluble olive oil confers hair with a shine, softness and silky touch.

Olivem 400

INCI name: sodium PEG-7 olive oil carboxylate

Use levels: 3-10%

Applications: shampoos, conditioners

Comments: Olive-based surfactant improves foam structure for rich foams.

Australian Macadamia Nut Oil

INCI name: macadamia ternifolia nut oil

Use levels: 1-5%

Applications: hair care and conditioner products

Comments: Provides lubrication, softening, hair sheen and protection of the protein structure.

* RITA Corporation Woodstock, IL

Tel: (815) 337-2500

Fax: (815) 337-2522

Website: www.ritacorp.com

E-mail: cservice@ritacorp.com

Ritafactant 138AN

INCI name: decyl glucoside (and) sodium lauroyl lactylate

Use levels: up to 30%

Applications: baby products, products used around the eyes, mild shampoos and body wash formulations

Comments: Ritafactant 138AN is an excellent "all-natural" surfactant blend that is extremely mild and stable. It is an amide-free and sulfate-free system.

Ritafactant 122 HFP INCI name: sodium [C.sub.14-16] olefin sulfonate (and) ammonium lauryl sulfate (and) cocamidopropyl betaine (and) sodium caproyl lactylate (and) glycol stearate (and) stearamide AMP (and) peq-150 distearate

Use levels: up to 50% Applications: high-foaming shampoos and body wash products

Comments: Ritafactant 122HFP is a "cold mix system" that produces an ultra high foam volume. It is a mild, stable and highly cost-effective surfactant package.

Ritafactant 122MS

INCI name: cocamidopropyl betaine (and) sodium caproyl lactylate

Use levels: up to 20%

Applications: baby products, products used around the eyes, mild shampoos and body wash applications

Comments: Ritafactant 122MS creates a wet spherical high volume foam with excellent stability, providing a mild, cost-effective foaming surfactant package. It is an ideal amide-free and sulfate-free system.

* Scher Chemicals Clifton, NJ

Tel: (973) 471-1300

Fax: (973) 471-3783

E-mail: scherchem@scherchem.com

Hydramol PGDS

INCI name: PEG-90 diisostearate

Use levels: 2-15%

Applications: detergents, shampoos, clear styling gels, clear hair rinses, clear hair mousses, styling aids

Comments: Hydramol PGDS is a water-soluble emollient that provides non-oily moisturization and lubrication to hair products. It replaces super amides in shampoos and body washes as a thickener and foam booster. It forms clear, sparkling gels with anionic detergent systems. It enhances foam height, functions as an excellent thickener and gelling agent and forms gels with propylene glycol and dimethicone copolyol.

Hydramol PGPD

INCI name: PEG/PPG8/3 diisostearate

Applications: hair emollients, conditioners, clear hair gels, hair mousses

Comments: Water-soluble "oil-free" emollient for all aspects of hair treatment. Imparts moisturization to clear hair gel, hair mousses. Clean, non-oily additive for sparkling gels/sprays.

Hydramol TGL

INCI name: polyglyceryl-3 laurate

Use levels: 2-10%

Applications: shampoos, conditioners, hair treatment masques, hair glossers, conditioning sprays

Comments: Hydramol TGL provides high shine and moisturization to shampoos, conditioners and hair treatment gels. It is water-dispersible and rinses off completely clean. It is a perfect ester for use in aqueous systems, contributing moisturization without greasiness.

* Stepan Company Northfield, IL

Tel: (800) 745-7837 (technical assistance)/(800) 457-7673 (orders)

Fax: (708) 501-2100

Website: www.stepan.com

Stepan SAB-2

INCI name: distearyl phthalic acid amide

Applications: conditioning shampoos, anti-dandruff shampoos

Comments: Stepan SAB-2 is an excellent emulsifier or suspending agent for silicones, zinc pyrithione, sulfur, selenium sulfide, coal tar and/or oil extracts. It provides uniform emulsification of suspension of active ingredients. Stepan SAB-2 simplifies the production of silicone-based conditioning shampoos. It is a highly effective opacifier.

Stepanquat ML

INCI name: quaternium-82

Applications: hair conditioners (regular, deep and leave-on), hair styling aids, creams and lotions (o/w and w/o), body washes

Comments: Stepanquat ML is an excellent conditioning agent with wide applications for both hair and skin conditioning products. Stepanquat ML provides good skin and hair feel without any "buildup" problems. It also acts as a static control agent reducing "fly away" and static charge on hair and other substrates. Stepanquat ML is a unique emulsifying agent; it can emulsify both oil-in-water and water-in-oil emulsions with cold mixing procedures. Stepanquat ML is very mild at the recommended use level.

Amphosol 1C

INCI name: sodium cocoamphoacetate

Applications: shampoos, liquid/hand soap, ethnic products, facial washes, shower gels, bubble baths, body washes, baby products, pet shampoos

Comments: Amphosol 1C is an amphoteric surfactant. It is useful as a secondary surfactant to help boost foam and build viscosity. Amphosol 1C is substantive to human hair and skin, imparting a conditioning and softening effect. It is very mild, almost non-stinging to the eyes and reduces the irritation index of finished formulations. A prototype baby shampoos formulation using Amphosol 1C is available via the Stepan website or via the company's technical service group.

* Strahl & Pitsch, Inc. West Babylon, WY

Tel: (631) 587-9000

Fax: (631) 587-9120

Website: www.spwax.com

Purester 24

INCI name: lauryl laurate

Use levels: 3-3.5%

Applications: hair pomade

Comments: Better binding power than oil alone, more shine.

* Tri-K Industries Northvale, NJ

Tel: (201) 750-1055

Fax: (201) 750-9785

Website: www.tri-k.com

E-mail: info@tri-k.com

Phytowax Olive 10L40

INCI name: hydrogenated decyl olive esters

Use levels: 1-2%

Applications: hair care products

Comments: Phytowax Olive 10L40 is a 100% vegetable origin product which is very stable to oxidation. It can be used as a structuring/stiffening agent in anhydrous products such as sticks and pomades. Phytowax gives body to formulations and possesses a nongreasy non-tacky feel.

Glossamer L6600

INCI name: brassica campestris (and) aleurites fordi oil copolymer

Use levels: 0.5-10%

Applications: shampoos, conditioners, styling lotions, pomades

Comments: A new, natural copolymer that combines the emolliency of vegetable oils with film-forming properties to enhance reflectance and sheen and deliver moisturization, conditioning. Cerester

INCI name: decyl (olivate (and) sweet almondate (and) sunflowerate)

Use levels: 1-40%

Applications: conditioners, styling lotions, pomades

Comments: A 100% vegetable origin product which delivers "oil-free" vegetable oils in liquid wax esters. Cerester is an active ingredient with emollient properties that will give the finished product a non-oily, dry feel.
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Publication:Household & Personal Products Industry
Date:Apr 1, 2001
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